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2010 Kicker upgrade package


2nd2none

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Thats funny because these Polks us a new technology which doesnt have a HUGE magnet. In fact it use this:

Neodymium Magnets a rare earth metal offering exceptional strength to performance ratio, found only in the most exotic speakers, saves tremendous weight. Don’t let the sound system weigh your vehicle down. Since the magnet is smaller, the speaker can fit into more applications.

 

 

Thanks for the comments on the Polks. The ones that I were speaking of being really heavy for their size....well, they were made about 20 years ago - so I'm sure things have progressed since then. :)

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After much comparing and researching....I ended up getting the KS680s from Kicker. Got them at about $61 a pair. Good deal. Should be here in a few days. Depending on time and the weather..I'm hoping to at least get the front door ones installed this weekend..and then....ugh, the dreaded rear deck next week. My plans are clear now - After these speakers...I'm going to get the Shelby Kicker Sub and then the Shelby kicker amp. Then, I'll call it a day. I don't think I'm going to get the door subs if they don't seem any better than the stock ones.

 

I'll post back my review of the new speakers.

 

According to the Kicker guys, the Kicker/Shelby door subs sound really good with the Kicker/Shelby amp.
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My two sets of KS680's came yesterday. :) I haven't had a chance to install any of them yet. I have to pick up a set of torx bits too. Really excited get these installed....only thing that scares me is all the plastic fasteners and snap in plastic pieces...I'm always terrified that I'm going to break them.

 

Hopefully the weather will cool off in the next few days...don't really feel like crawling around the back seat and working in 95 degree weather.

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Finally took a couple hours this afternoon to install the front 6x8's. Relatively easy, I must say. For some reason, some of the other reviews out there made it seem a bit more involved. Just take your time and think things through twice before doing. The only issue, if you could call it that - was that there is a screw that I couldn't find at first. It's really hidden up under where the window control panel pops up and out.

 

I was able to remove the old speakers and install the new ones without having to disconnect anything at all. It would have been a lot easier to have someone hold the door panel while I removed the speakers..but I managed just fine by myself.

 

First impression when you hold the whopping 50W factory speakers in your hand..is MY GOD...is this even a speaker? We're talking old TV type speakers here guys. I've never seen such a cheap "audio" speaker in my life. How they sound as good as they do is a miracle.

 

The whole process took a bit over two hours - the first door easily took twice as long, due to the fact that I was learning as I go.

 

I got everything all buttoned back up and put in a good CD. Finally, some nice high frequencies coming out of the front! Nice. Another thing I was worried about was that the head unit would have trouble powering these more powerful speakers..and sometimes you loose volume overall. But I'm happy to say that the system is just as loud as it was before, meaning I don't have to turn up the volume any higher than before to reach the same loudness level.

 

So to sum up, I agree with most people that this is definitely a nice little upgrade to do. I wouldn't go over the top with some crazy exotic speakers...but find a good mid-range set and you'll definitely hear an improvement.

 

I can provide a step by step walk through of the process for the door speaker replacement for the 2010 model if someone desires. I don't have pictures however, but it would be fairly self explanatory.

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I got the rears installed today. Not the best working conditions...as it was about 80% humidity outside.

 

Pretty much as easy as the door speakers...just a different procedure...not really any surprises. I was again able to accomplish the install with minimal removal of the interior pieces. Bottom back seat removed, lower inside panels pulled away, but not removed. Rear package shelf just slides out with some angling. Speaker swap is ridiculously easy. Took a couple hours again, because I was learning as I went - I could probably do it in an hour or less now.

 

One thing, you won't notice a tremendous improvement from swapping the rears as compared to the front door 6x8's. If you listen closely though, you will hear a bit more of "fill" coming from the back now.

 

Next thing for me is the Trunk sub...got to start saving my money in the time being.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Questions for someone in the know at Shelby:

 

1. The 4.1 amp that is offered...it advertises 46W x 4. Is that 46W RMS power? and in comparison - how much does the stock factory system put out in terms of RMS power?

 

2. Any word on the availability of the 8inch door subs for the 2010 Model year cars?

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Questions for someone in the know at Shelby:

 

1. The 4.1 amp that is offered...it advertises 46W x 4. Is that 46W RMS power? and in comparison - how much does the stock factory system put out in terms of RMS power?

 

2. Any word on the availability of the 8inch door subs for the 2010 Model year cars?

 

Don't know the answer about the amp, but the 2010 subs are out.

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Mulanzo:I spoke to a Kicker OEM engineer a month or two ago. He said they had developed a kit for the 2010 with nav. The suits just hadn't given the go ahead based on demand.

Blue:have you called the Shelby store to see when they expect them to be avaiable again?

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A few questions to those who have the Shelby/Kicker Trunk sub and the Shelby/Kicker 4.1amp....

 

Can you hook up the Shelby/Kicker Trunk sub to the factory radio? Or is the Shelby/Kicker Trunk sub dependent on the Shelby/Kicker 4.1amp to get it's power and audio signal? I'm confused because I see that there are two large plug in connectors coming out of the Trunk Sub.

 

Which would be better to install first, the amp or trunk sub?

 

Does anyone have the instructions for installing the Trunk sub?

 

Thanks guys!

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I know the trunk sub does not need the 4.1 amp as I can get the trunk sub (which is the same for all years) with my Nav unit but I can't get the 4.1 amp.

 

 

Thanks 2nd2none...didn't think of it that way.

 

Mrl859 passed along the trunk sub instructions. After reading through it, it states to use the sub without the amp you just have to tap into two wires under the dash. I think I'm going to just get the amp first...then hope like heck for another discount sale in the shelby store and get the sub then.

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I decided to get the amp right now...very excited to receive it and get it installed.

 

I think I might install sound dynamat (or something similar) behind the door 6x8's or some speaker baffles on the 6x8's.

 

Still itchin' to get that trunk sub though. Money, money, money...I need more money! :rolleyes:

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Questions for someone in the know at Shelby:

 

1. The 4.1 amp that is offered...it advertises 46W x 4. Is that 46W RMS power? and in comparison - how much does the stock factory system put out in terms of RMS power?

 

2. Any word on the availability of the 8inch door subs for the 2010 Model year cars?

 

 

Stock system is 7 watts RMS per channel on the mains and 40 watts RMS per channel on the subs.

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Just wanted to say thanks to all members that have added some info and insight into the shelby/kicker system. Really helped deciding what to do first and what to do and what not to do. Appreciate all your time and expertise. :)

 

I wish places of business and their employees were this prompt and attentive to a customers needs and questions!

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  • 1 month later...

Well, I ordered my GT350 with the shaker 500 so I can use my Kicker kit from the 07-09 and use it in the 2011 instead. I have an 08 vert with the Shaker 1000, and for the verts with the shaker 1000, the sound doesnt even compare...I was SOOO dissapointed with the kicker. Im guessing the aftermarket pioner AVIC f90BT has something to do with it as well.

 

I spoke with Kicker, and they gave me the run around on a vert solution and then finally told me they werent interested in doing it after about 8 months of pressing them.

 

I was so mad with the wasted ppurchase, I didnt know what to do. But, I at least have a plan and will give it a second shot on the new 2011 coupe w/ shaker 500. That should make the sound the way Kicker intended it according to them.

 

We will see, but it looks like I need to order the 2010+ grills

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Well, I ordered my GT350 with the shaker 500 so I can use my Kicker kit from the 07-09 and use it in the 2011 instead. I have an 08 vert with the Shaker 1000, and for the verts with the shaker 1000, the sound doesnt even compare...I was SOOO dissapointed with the kicker. Im guessing the aftermarket pioner AVIC f90BT has something to do with it as well.

 

I spoke with Kicker, and they gave me the run around on a vert solution and then finally told me they werent interested in doing it after about 8 months of pressing them.

 

I was so mad with the wasted ppurchase, I didnt know what to do. But, I at least have a plan and will give it a second shot on the new 2011 coupe w/ shaker 500. That should make the sound the way Kicker intended it according to them.

 

We will see, but it looks like I need to order the 2010+ grills

 

 

What components did you install? I got the regular KS680 6x8 speakers...great improvement right out of the box.

 

I got the amp installed...and it didn't do much for me. I was disappointed. Thought it would really give the system a major boost...but it's just "okay".

 

As fellow member "PistolWhip" encouraged me...it's best to go with an aftermarket system if you're really looking for something to blow you away. So as you mentioned that Pioneer component is a key factor in making things really wake up.

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Those who did the Kicker upgrade with a Shaker 1000 -

What did you do with the unused plugs that went to the OEM sub? :headscratch:

 

 

I don't have the shaker1000...but I have the unused harness in the trunk..so I would assume it just sits there for you too. The Shelby/Kicker sub either gets plugged into the 4.1 kicker amp or you can tap the wires for a signal.

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Thats exactly right, I just left it sitting there, and Im glad I did.

 

So Here is what I have gathered from all the threads on this topic:

 

1. If you have a convertible, move along. This system was not acoustically designed for the verts. The sound is WAY better in a coupe, and the sub doesnt fit anyway. Kicker COULD have designed it to fit in both, and if that was the only problem it would have had going into the vert, dont you tink they would have slapped together a different trunk sub in a new york minute? Of course they would, but thats not the ONLY reason they didnt do that, its the overall sound in a vert...just doesnt fly.

 

2. The guys with a STOCK shaker 500 notice a significant performance upgrade in the coupe with a stock head unit. The Kicker is simply a better, and cost effective solution to the shaker 500. If you think the shaker 500 is good enough for you, you dont push your radio, and that is fine and dandy. Most of the time I dont even listen to anything but my car when I drive.

 

3. The guys with a stock shaker 1000 should simply save their money, coupe or not. The highs and mids may be a little clearer on the kicker system, but the bass doesnt even come close to the stock 1000. (and true mid) This is interesting, because the kicker door sub magnet is huge and looks like it would way outperform the stock 1000 door sub. I tried it with the kicker amp, and the kicker speakers back on the factory 1000 amp. The door sub may have a crossover or capacitor that limits its low frequencies.

 

4. The guys with a aftermarket head unit may have problems balancing the sound on the kicker system. I was told it was designed for the stock head unit only, so your results may vary.

 

Im not doggin it, just my observation after much fuss and messing with the kicker system to make it right in my car. Just couldnt get it to match my shaker 1000 and my expectations. I hope to have much better luck in the new car.

 

Hope this spells out some points you guys can think on.

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3. The guys with a stock shaker 1000 should simply save their money, coupe or not. The highs and mids may be a little clearer on the kicker system, but the bass doesnt even come close to the stock 1000. (and true mid) This is interesting, because the kicker door sub magnet is huge and looks like it would way outperform the stock 1000 door sub. I tried it with the kicker amp, and the kicker speakers back on the factory 1000 amp. The door sub may have a crossover or capacitor that limits its low frequencies.

 

 

 

I have to disagree with that statement. I had the 500 in my SGT and when we got the car for the Terlingua it had a 1000 in it. I did not think there was that big of a difference between the 500 and the 1000. When I first sat in the car to try and hear what the big difference was between the 500 and the 1000, I said to myself "That's it? What's the big deal?". There was a little more bass but that was about all. After the Kicker was put in I noticed a huge improvement in both cars. There is a big difference between the Kicker and either stock system.

 

Just remember Warren, the trunk was packed full of stuff when you drove the Terlingua. So you may not have heard it at its best.

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