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Poll for best brand suspension parts and upgrades.


jaaman

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Ok, so I have owned my GT 500 since September 2006 and I have been following all the posts on the wheel hop issues with these cars and I am now ready to fix it by changing the upper and lower control arms, upper control arm bracket and adding an adjustable panhard bar and I am also going to install lowering springs.

I am leaning toward Metco control arms and ford racing springs. Now that these products have been available for these cars for a few years, what have your experiences been with the offered products?

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Ok, so I have owned my GT 500 since September 2006 and I have been following all the posts on the wheel hop issues with these cars and I am now ready to fix it by changing the upper and lower control arms, upper control arm bracket and adding an adjustable panhard bar and I am also going to install lowering springs.

I am leaning toward Metco control arms and ford racing springs. Now that these products have been available for these cars for a few years, what have your experiences been with the offered products?

 

 

 

You beat me by a couple months, I got mine in Nov. of '06. From personal experience, I have a vert and the only vert specific spring on the market is the Steeda, or I would have gone with FRPP.

 

My car is not a daily driver, nor a garage queen, I drive it and enjoy it, just not in rain or every day. I don't drag race it or road track it. I think it's important that someone explains what kind of car they have as to the setup you want to place in your "blank canvas".

 

With that said, I've got Steeda vert springs, BMR LCAs and adj Panhard Bar. I'm running a JLT CAI with tune and the KR Shifter. I have 20" Nitto INVO 285/30 for the rear and will burn them completely off all the way through first and most of second, they will break loose in as high as third gear on the road. And zero wheel hop.

 

Grabberized-BMR-LCA-and-Pan.jpg

 

engine6-111207b.jpg

 

Shelby-0308-New-Wheels.jpg

 

What I've been told by vendors that I decided not to so business with, is that you need a whole new suspension. simply not true. I didn't even need camber bolts or plates.

 

My loyalty lies with some of the vendors on Team Shelby; simply because they were R&Ding their parts as we were getting our early cars and they won't steer you wrong (no pun intended). They know what works and what doesn't. JLT and Lethal Performance (Jared) never tried to over sell me, nor did they try to under sell me knowing I'd be needing something more later. They have a great knowledge of each facet of the GT500, whether you want to drag race it, road track it or a great street car.

 

What other members have shared, one member put a heavy duty upper control arm bracket on, and when it was supposed to fail, it didn't and the mounting area in the body/frame area did and ripped a huge hole in it.

 

Other members have said just replacing their UCA has eliminated wheel hop, others have just lowered it and replaced the bushings in their OEM LCAs and that has worked as well, but the OEM LCAs just look so wimply...LOL, but they saved a bunch of money compared to what I spent for the same thing. Again I think that most of those guys were not putting out 800hp and doing insane launches.

 

Hope this helps

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I just took the advice from another TS member on what he did.I ordered just the rear lowering springs from Roush.There is a 1/4" difference between front and rear height now,no more wheel hop,checked the pinion angle and it was good,and no need for the adj. panhard bar.It has improved the ride also.The people at Roush told me they have done several GT500's with these springs and have had no complaints,none here either.$130 bucks

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[Alot of good help here and I agree with poster about Lethal and JLT! I took alot of time and research to come up with my suspension mods which go on the car April 1! BMR on car adjustable panhard bar, J&M Non Adjustable LCA with relocation bracket, J&M Adjustable Street UCA and FRPP Springs. This I think will resolve my wheel hop and lower the car looking good. I too was told I did NOT need caster camber plates or bolts. I'll have it all professionally installed and aligned by a shop I know well..and he has done ALOT of these cars..so, I have no worries.

 

Alot to think about for sure..but, I took what I read after searching and my posting for information and did what I thought seemed to be the best bang for the buck. I may do more later for suspension but, this is it for now..

 

Next..is HP and cooling...parts ordered..and will go on later in April!

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i went with the FR3 handling pack which works great an also got UCA an LCA with relocation brackets. no hop for me

 

 

It all depends are you talking about the best suspension or best bang for the buck. Without a doubt Griggs is the top of the food chain. Even the entry level Griggs suspension is greater than the top of the line from Steeda or BMR. Let's put it this way, Steeda and BMR etc improve the parts that were engineered for the mustang. Griggs reengineers the suspension to where is should of been.

 

I researched it and decided on Griggs. Let's just say my Griggs make my GT500 handle much more like my Viper.

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I'd simply switch to the Roush upper control arm first. I compared it to the stock piece here. No poly bushings to rip, tear, or lube. No heim joint to transmit more NVH at that specific juncture. No Ford mechanic would ever notice it either were there any warranty concerns, as it looks absolutely OE.

 

That simple part alone should eliminate the issue entirely.

 

Tob

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I'd simply switch to the Roush upper control arm first. I compared it to the stock piece here. No poly bushings to rip, tear, or lube. No heim joint to transmit more NVH at that specific juncture. No Ford mechanic would ever notice it either were there any warranty concerns, as it looks absolutely OE.

 

That simple part alone should eliminate the issue entirely.

 

Tob

 

+1, I'm switching to the Roush UCA and going back to stock LCAs this summer, the Fays2 watts link is staying. I like the FRPP springs and shocks, they will stay too.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Would it be ill advised to just install the FRPP lowering springs without the rest of the handling kit? Obviously it would be better with the whole kit but would there be problems with just the springs? Thanks.

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Would it be ill advised to just install the FRPP lowering springs without the rest of the handling kit? Obviously it would be better with the whole kit but would there be problems with just the springs? Thanks.

 

 

Your shocks and struts will bottom out and no longer work properly. That is the downside to just springs. I tried it in the rear and the car would bottom out and make a huge bang as the shocks no longer had any range of motion.

 

Jim

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Your shocks and struts will bottom out and no longer work properly. That is the downside to just springs. I tried it in the rear and the car would bottom out and make a huge bang as the shocks no longer had any range of motion.

 

Jim

 

 

 

Thanks, that is exactly what I needed to know! Guess I have to fork over the money for the whole darn set $1450 is the best I can find that FRPP handling kit for, then the install, ugh I need to make more money :-)

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What do you mean full setup? All I did was FRPP springs, BMR adj panhard, Adj UCA and LCA with brackets. No camber bolts and nothing else. Everything alighned back to factory specs....No clunking that I have heard yet...however I was told due to the bushings being harder than stock I may hear some but, it was typical..and not to worry.

 

I would be curious to hear what your doing.....but, I went with a guy who is REALLY good..so, I feel good about what I have..besides..it's the same set up several here have done.

 

It did cost me $715.00 for install of all parts with alignment...Parts were around $500.00 I think total..I forget.

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What do you mean full setup? All I did was FRPP springs, BMR adj panhard, Adj UCA and LCA with brackets. No camber bolts and nothing else. Everything alighned back to factory specs....No clunking that I have heard yet...however I was told due to the bushings being harder than stock I may hear some but, it was typical..and not to worry.

 

I would be curious to hear what your doing.....but, I went with a guy who is REALLY good..so, I feel good about what I have..besides..it's the same set up several here have done.

 

It did cost me $715.00 for install of all parts with alignment...Parts were around $500.00 I think total..I forget.

 

 

If you are still running stock shocks with lower springs, how can they still be working properly? The geometry of the shocks change dramatically when you lower the car becoming more compressed and unable to further fully extend which in turn causes them to re-coil and bottom out over substantial bumps. At least that was my experience. Maybe I'm missing something here :headscratch:

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Not sure what to tell you..this is the 3rd cobra I have dropped with springs ONLY and have never once had an issue. Your talking an inch or so..how can it be that much of a deal. If your shocks allow alot of travel..doesn't that mean they are bad? The purpose of them is to control there car..not to let it bounce like crazy. Anyway...NONE of the installers I have ever used..ever said change the shocks..I mean unless you wanted to do coilovers ...but,that was if I wanted not a requirement.

 

If I need to do that..it's news to me..and I would bet a few people here...given I asked and no one mentioned..shocks..needed replaced out...so, maybe yours were not installed right? Or perhaps there was another reason?

 

Maybe I got lucky! LOL!

 

I would be interested to hear other comments....post up!

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Not sure what to tell you..this is the 3rd cobra I have dropped with springs ONLY and have never once had an issue. Your talking an inch or so..how can it be that much of a deal. If your shocks allow alot of travel..doesn't that mean they are bad? The purpose of them is to control there car..not to let it bounce like crazy. Anyway...NONE of the installers I have ever used..ever said change the shocks..I mean unless you wanted to do coilovers ...but,that was if I wanted not a requirement.

 

If I need to do that..it's news to me..and I would bet a few people here...given I asked and no one mentioned..shocks..needed replaced out...so, maybe yours were not installed right? Or perhaps there was another reason?

 

Maybe I got lucky! LOL!

 

I would be interested to hear other comments....post up!

 

 

When I had my springs in the rear (keep in mind that was the only area of issue for me), the banging and bottoming out of the stock shocks over bumps was brutal. Replaced the rear shocks with Billstein's and the problem was solved. No more banging. Certainly could have been my shocks were bad, but the car only had 2,000 cruising miles on it so I don't think that was the case. In my experience, when the compression rate changes in the factory stock shocks, they don't perform properly. I certainly could be wrong here, but this theory makes sense to me and have been informed so as well by several techs.

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Never have I had issues with bottoming out my struts or shocks, this goes for my GT500 on Steeda vert springs, my '88 McLaren Mustang with Eibachs nor even my '66 Chevy pickup with drop springs and 1400 lbs of gravel in the back.

 

Of course, driving conditions and habits may be different than the person above, which is always a consideration.

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Has anyone used CHE (Carriage House Engineering) suspension components? Their bushings sound interesting, a 2-piece Poly/Delrin hybrid, and you order the parts in custom colors.

I have yet to find any comments (positive or negative) on their products, even a Google search yields very few useful results.

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It all depends are you talking about the best suspension or best bang for the buck. Without a doubt Griggs is the top of the food chain. Even the entry level Griggs suspension is greater than the top of the line from Steeda or BMR. Let's put it this way, Steeda and BMR etc improve the parts that were engineered for the mustang. Griggs reengineers the suspension to where is should of been.

 

I researched it and decided on Griggs. Let's just say my Griggs make my GT500 handle much more like my Viper.

 

 

you dont have to get the whole kit but i highly recommend getting better shocks of your choice. the stock shocks suck on these heavy cars. there a good upgrade for GT's since there much lighter. i chose to get the whole kit since i think it works better together. Griggs is prolly the best but cost alot.

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Has anyone used CHE (Carriage House Engineering) suspension components? Their bushings sound interesting, a 2-piece Poly/Delrin hybrid, and you order the parts in custom colors.

I have yet to find any comments (positive or negative) on their products, even a Google search yields very few useful results.

 

CHE is a well known outfit in the drag racing world. They build quality stuff. I've never heard any complaints.

 

you dont have to get the whole kit but i highly recommend getting better shocks of your choice. the stock shocks suck on these heavy cars. there a good upgrade for GT's since there much lighter. i chose to get the whole kit since i think it works better together. Griggs is prolly the best but cost alot.

 

Gotta pay to play. Griggs turns these heavy 4 seaters into bona fide corner carvers, enough so that any Porsche will get out of your way. Also, Griggs is the only business in the business to offer lifetime warranties on all of their components. No one else can touch that.

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CHE is a well known outfit in the drag racing world. They build quality stuff. I've never heard any complaints.

 

 

Gotta pay to play. Griggs turns these heavy 4 seaters into bona fide corner carvers, enough so that any Porsche will get out of your way. Also, Griggs is the only business in the business to offer lifetime warranties on all of their components. No one else can touch that.

 

 

 

right about CHE, also you are a 100% right about griggs stuff i rode in collins car and with just 306HP to the wheels were whopping on Porsches an just about anything else on the track

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^Here's the test ride I took with Colin that sold me on the GR40 suspension

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEgFX2yabow

 

 

very nice ride, his car handles amazing he swap the toyo's hes using the Hoosiers now an said they hook much better. i would like to start doing some road course start with what i got an work my way to some othe the griggs stuff not all of it cause my car is more a street car.

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Has anyone used CHE (Carriage House Engineering) suspension components? Their bushings sound interesting, a 2-piece Poly/Delrin hybrid, and you order the parts in custom colors.

I have yet to find any comments (positive or negative) on their products, even a Google search yields very few useful results.

 

 

I have used their parts on many FOX bodies as well as my GT500 and have always been extremely satisfied with the quality of parts and the customer service. I would highly recommened them!

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You beat me by a couple months, I got mine in Nov. of '06. From personal experience, I have a vert and the only vert specific spring on the market is the Steeda, or I would have gone with FRPP.

 

My car is not a daily driver, nor a garage queen, I drive it and enjoy it, just not in rain or every day. I don't drag race it or road track it. I think it's important that someone explains what kind of car they have as to the setup you want to place in your "blank canvas".

 

With that said, I've got Steeda vert springs, BMR LCAs and adj Panhard Bar. I'm running a JLT CAI with tune and the KR Shifter. I have 20" Nitto INVO 285/30 for the rear and will burn them completely off all the way through first and most of second, they will break loose in as high as third gear on the road. And zero wheel hop.

 

Grabberized-BMR-LCA-and-Pan.jpg

 

engine6-111207b.jpg

 

Shelby-0308-New-Wheels.jpg

 

What I've been told by vendors that I decided not to so business with, is that you need a whole new suspension. simply not true. I didn't even need camber bolts or plates.

 

My loyalty lies with some of the vendors on Team Shelby; simply because they were R&Ding their parts as we were getting our early cars and they won't steer you wrong (no pun intended). They know what works and what doesn't. JLT and Lethal Performance (Jared) never tried to over sell me, nor did they try to under sell me knowing I'd be needing something more later. They have a great knowledge of each facet of the GT500, whether you want to drag race it, road track it or a great street car.

 

What other members have shared, one member put a heavy duty upper control arm bracket on, and when it was supposed to fail, it didn't and the mounting area in the body/frame area did and ripped a huge hole in it.

 

Other members have said just replacing their UCA has eliminated wheel hop, others have just lowered it and replaced the bushings in their OEM LCAs and that has worked as well, but the OEM LCAs just look so wimply...LOL, but they saved a bunch of money compared to what I spent for the same thing. Again I think that most of those guys were not putting out 800hp and doing insane launches.

 

Hope this helps

 

 

MY PROBLEM:

It seems my rear end squats and bottoms out when I stomp on it ... not all the time.

 

Also, sounds like the driveshaft hits the underside. It is a noticeable/significant "THUMP" coming hard out of 1st & 2nd gear.

 

I also inspected the rear tire wheel wells - there definitely is some residual tire/rubber from the tires hitting.

 

With a full tank, two kids in the back, chairs and cooler in the trunk the "THUMP" is more pronounced.

 

Maybe my shocks are bad??

 

The FRPP 2007-2010 MUSTANG GT / SVT ADJUSTABLE DAMPER KIT - M-18000-C, rear shocks with this kit are manufactured by TOKICO. Same as the STEEDA suspension specific vert pak.

http://www.steeda.com/products/gt500-suspension-handling-pak.php

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MY PROBLEM:

It seems my rear end squats and bottoms out when I stomp on it ... not all the time.

 

Also, sounds like the driveshaft hits the underside. It is a noticeable/significant "THUMP" coming hard out of 1st & 2nd gear.

 

I also inspected the rear tire wheel wells - there definitely is some residual tire/rubber from the tires hitting.

 

With a full tank, two kids in the back, chairs and cooler in the trunk the "THUMP" is more pronounced.

 

Maybe my shocks are bad??

 

The FRPP 2007-2010 MUSTANG GT / SVT ADJUSTABLE DAMPER KIT - M-18000-C, rear shocks with this kit are manufactured by TOKICO. Same as the STEEDA suspension specific vert pak.

http://www.steeda.com/products/gt500-suspension-handling-pak.php

 

The driveshaft on my Super Snake was also. But my tires arent rubbing. Shelby was soposed to call me with a fix two weeks ago. Still no call. He said maybe relocate the bump stop. I installed BMR anti wheel hop kit and it hasn't hit since. If it hits again, i made 1/4 inch shims to move the bump stop up higher.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The driveshaft on my Super Snake was also. But my tires arent rubbing. Shelby was soposed to call me with a fix two weeks ago. Still no call. He said maybe relocate the bump stop. I installed BMR anti wheel hop kit and it hasn't hit since. If it hits again, i made 1/4 inch shims to move the bump stop up higher.

 

 

Thanks woody81.

 

I thought I might be going crazy.

 

I will be making some changes in the coming weeks. Will keep this post updated.

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