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I missed this first time around - congrats Leann. I know the difference on my CS6 with and without the blower is huge.

 

One thing though, this could be down to a diffeence in model year but I noticed that your MAF is in a different spot to mine. Originally mine was in the same spot that your pics show but the car kept throwing codes, too rich at first, then too lean after some tweaking. After double checking the instructions my installer had placed the MAF in the wrong spot - on kine, at least, it should be directly after the air filter.

The code issue was due to the turbulence surrounding the MAF it couldn't give a stable signal so the tune was out accordingly. If you're having any code issues then move the MAF and have it re-tuned. After moving mine I gained another 4hp and 7ft/lbs of torque aswell as losing the code problem.

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Interesting....mine doesn't throw any codes, but your gain in hp and torque is cool...what did you have to do to the plastic tubing to get the MAF to fit right after the air cleaner? Was the gain in hp due to the move, or to the tune, or both?

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Moving the MAF is easy, takes 10 minutes and a screwdriver. The pieces just move around to make the same shape, just in a different order. However you will need to retune the car to match the new signal from the sensor. The extra HP & TQ were a result of the tuner getting a stable MAF signal to work with so a combination of the move and tune..

 

I'm not knocking your installer / tuner but am aware of the issues it caused me and that codes can be switched off. Check to see if it's not throwing them or just not illuminating the check engine light when it does.

 

If it's working fine as it is then maybe all is well and the difference could just be between model years.

 

What HP/TQ figures are you making and at what rpms?

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I missed this first time around - congrats Leann. I know the difference on my CS6 with and without the blower is huge.

 

One thing though, this could be down to a difference in model year but I noticed that your MAF is in a different spot to mine. Originally mine was in the same spot that your pics show but the car kept throwing codes, too rich at first, then too lean after some tweaking. After double checking the instructions my installer had placed the MAF in the wrong spot - on kine, at least, it should be directly after the air filter.

The code issue was due to the turbulence surrounding the MAF it couldn't give a stable signal so the tune was out accordingly. If you're having any code issues then move the MAF and have it re-tuned. After moving mine I gained another 4hp and 7ft/lbs of torque aswell as losing the code problem.

 

 

You are correct, mine was originally installed after the bend but while it didn't throw codes it didn't run consistently. It would stall when slowing down from 45+ mph to stop at a light. The RPMs wouldn't hold steady at idle. The shop relocated the MAF to after the Air Filter and all the problems disappeared. With the MAF after the bend, it gets a lot of turbulence in the air flow and throws the MAF readings off.

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Cool, you convinced me to give it a try....I'm going to move the MAF and see what happens...can't hurt and I can always move it back :happy feet: :happy feet: not sure about my HP numbers...right now I'm running with shorty headers, a hotter coil pack and hotter wires, and a larger (70mm) throttle body...all of these made a big difference in seat of the pants power to me. This winter/spring, I'll be building another engine with forged internals, stage 3 heads and cams, and perhaps a stroker kit to 4.2 or 4.3....also going with a stronger tranny and torque converter...wishing for 425-450 HP at the rear when I'm done

 

Thanks for the info on the MAF guys...this may be the answer to my rough running issues... :salute:

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^^ Looking forward to seeing that engine build Leann - it sounds just like my planned build but you'll get there before me as mine will be 2012 at the earliest (unless I sell the coupe to finance it...hmmmm).

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^^I'm looking for a donor engine as I want to keep the stock motor that came in the car intact. I've already got the new heads and cams lined up...only question I'm mulling is do I go with a stroker or just put in the forged pistons, and race prep the rods, block and crank...Mike Stacy is building a stroker for his (wifes) Terlingua and I want to see how that works out in his bunny...once I get started, I'll be sure to do a thread on here to cover the build :salute:

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^^ I'm debating between building my numbers matching motor or using the spare motor I have sitting at the back of the garage. It shouldn't be hard to find a spare motor.

 

 

That was the issue I had to deal with too...finally decided to go with a second motor and leave mine alone. Just started looking locally for a good, seasoned, yet low mileage engine. There are tons of high mileage ones out there, but if possible I'd like to find one I don't have to bore.

 

Oh, on the MAF relocate the MAF wires will not reach to the new location directly behind the air filter. I checked with the install guide and that is where the guide says it should be, directly behind the filter as you suggested. The guide directs that the wires be cut and new wire soldered in, so that the wires and plug will reach the MAF. I'll be giving that a go this weekend. Thanks again!

 

Leann

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^^^ My wires reach the correct location without any extension - it's a close call but I'd see if yours reach before cutting them Leann.

 

My spare motor has only 20,XXX km's on it so should be good to go. Question is will it make it into the CS6 before my '05 coupe (76,xxx km) or my '02 explorer sport-trac (221,xxx km) needs it? lol

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^^^ My wires reach the correct location without any extension - it's a close call but I'd see if yours reach before cutting them Leann.

 

My spare motor has only 20,XXX km's on it so should be good to go. Question is will it make it into the CS6 before my '05 coupe (76,xxx km) or my '02 explorer sport-trac (221,xxx km) needs it? lol

 

 

No, the wires are about 3-4 inches too short. This may be an 07-09 issue, as the install instructions for the supercharger state the wires will have to be spliced in order to fit.

 

Sounds like you have a good motor to start with; low enough miles that help insure that hopefully, someone did not have had time to harm it up by neglecting to change the oil etc. That's what I'm looking for, well that and a low mileage engine might mean less internal parts to buy for the rebuild lol....

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Wow! Did moving the MAF sure make a difference! Smoothed out the idle a ton! Thanks a lot for the info guys! :salute:

 

Glad to be of help Leann - now get that bunny back on the dyno and see if you can get a few more ponies out of it.

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