mustanggt500 Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Was talking to a local dealer trying to resolve some overwhelming issues at hand and they mentioned a 500 mile break in period on the gt500s and to not take it over 4k rpm? truth or urban legend? Nic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alloy Snake Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Legend-Drive it like you stole it!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullens Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 My break in consisted of the drive from the showroom to the street. End of break in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelTownStang Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Legend-Drive it like you stole it!!! +1... While this had some truth to it a long time ago, newer engines no longer require a break-in period... or a warm-up period upon a cold start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod_Michel Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Urban legend, it either is right or it ain't, might as well find out early. Was talking to a local dealer trying to resolve some overwhelming issues at hand and they mentioned a 500 mile break in period on the gt500s and to not take it over 4k rpm? truth or urban legend? Nic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SicShelby Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Why would new engines *not* require a break in? They may be made of different metals and "sturdier" by all means, but they still need to be broken in for everything to set right. IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdusseau Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Have yet to "break in" as directed. Oh wait, nope. I am sure rubber left in dealer lot prior to leaving does not = proper break in. lol I have always run mine hard from day one. This includes cars, truck and motorcycles. Have NEVER had a failure or premature leak of any kind. It comes down to one thing and one thing only. Do what makes you feel good and gives you piece of mind. If you are happy driving easy for 500-1000 miles then by all means do it. If you are like me and like to put down some rubber in the dealer parking lot (my signature move) then also feel free to do that. Todd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldgus Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Was talking to a local dealer trying to resolve some overwhelming issues at hand and they mentioned a 500 mile break in period on the gt500s and to not take it over 4k rpm? truth or urban legend? Nic Uh... NO I'm not saying to run it to redline, but dont baby it either... Oh hell, drive it like you stole it, but remember to respect that car until you learn its limits - and dont hurt yourself... LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullens Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Too many people break in modern engines too easy. A spirited break in contributes to better ring seal. Here's a some interesting info on engine break in: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT/SC#0471 Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Too many people break in modern engines too easy. A spirited break in contributes to better ring seal. Here's a some interesting info on engine break in: http://www.mototuneu..._in_secrets.htm Beat me to this link! I would still think however, that getting the mill and gears up to temp before beating on it is wise... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullens Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Beat me to this link! I would still think however, that getting the mill and gears up to temp before beating on it is wise... Absolutely. I don't ever beat on it until it's up to operating temp, new or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdusseau Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Absolutely. I don't ever beat on it until it's up to operating temp, new or not. Now this I can agree with 100%. Engine may hold but all those soft gaskets and seals may not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Beat me to this link! I would still think however, that getting the mill and gears up to temp before beating on it is wise... +1 On That Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbr1000 Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 I've gone the 50/50 route. Let it warm up before you gun it, broke it in slow first couple hundred miles then ran it slightly harder each time I went out. Didn't dump the clutch and take it up to it's limit until 700 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsarkis Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Urban legend, it either is right or it ain't, might as well find out early. +1, test out the quality while it's under warranty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hec332 Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Urban legend, it either is right or it ain't, might as well find out early. +1, test out the quality while it's under warranty My break in period was 27 miles and my 3.4 whipple is being installed.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9599svt Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 I guess I am one of the few but I do believe in breaking in the motor. I dont think it is as important as the olden days when you would want to have your distrubtor adaptor and spin it with a drill to get oil pressure before starting up after a rebuild, but I plan on breaking in my car for about 3-5 thousand 3000-5000 miles before I lay any rubber. Its probably not needed but I plan on having this car for many miles and it is peace of mind to me. I have always broke in all my engines ( from atv's to trucks) and have had extremly good luck so why change now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burning Blue Star IV Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 I took it easy for the first 1,500 miles or so. Who knows if it makes a difference in the modern engines...but it just seemed to make sense to me. It gave me some peace of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Train Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 Something in the owners manual about the engine power and boost being electronicly limited for the first few miles/15 warm up cycles, other than that I have tried to restrain myself, not always successful, thats what powertrain warranty is for I guess, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torched10 Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 Something in the owners manual about the engine power and boost being electronicly limited for the first few miles/15 warm up cycles, other than that I have tried to restrain myself, not always successful, thats what powertrain warranty is for I guess, lol 3-train --those limits are related to seting the supercharger in the Shelby I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sixties Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 Was talking to a local dealer trying to resolve some overwhelming issues at hand and they mentioned a 500 mile break in period on the gt500s and to not take it over 4k rpm? truth or urban legend? Nic Looks like there are many opinions on this topic. You'll have decide for yourself. But, this has been my method since 1966. I developed it while breaking in my L72 427 66 vette. I took it real easy on everything for 50 miles. Remember, you are breaking in more than just the rings to the cylinder sleeves. There are also many bearings involved through out the car. After 50 mi, I began 1/4 and 1/2 pedal accelerations in 2nd and 3rd only and only to 4000 rpm. I did this up to 200 mi. From 200 to 500 mi, I raised the rpm to 5000 and did some full throttle 2nd and 3rd gear accelerations. After 500, I had the oil changed and began to redline it. From that point on, I took it to the drag strip and considered it broken-in. I have repeated this process for more recent cars: 1996 Cobra, 1999 Cobra, 2003 Cobra. All ran very well and used no oil. I'm picking up my 2010 GT500 next week. It's been in the shop having the 750 kit and other added. It has 8 miles on it. When I pick it up, I will follow the above process to break it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03reptile Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 Looks like there are many opinions on this topic. You'll have decide for yourself. But, this has been my method since 1966. I developed it while breaking in my L72 427 66 vette. I took it real easy on everything for 50 miles. Remember, you are breaking in more than just the rings to the cylinder sleeves. There are also many bearings involved through out the car. After 50 mi, I began 1/4 and 1/2 pedal accelerations in 2nd and 3rd only and only to 4000 rpm. I did this up to 200 mi. From 200 to 500 mi, I raised the rpm to 5000 and did some full throttle 2nd and 3rd gear accelerations. After 500, I had the oil changed and began to redline it. From that point on, I took it to the drag strip and considered it broken-in. I have repeated this process for more recent cars: 1996 Cobra, 1999 Cobra, 2003 Cobra. All ran very well and used no oil. I'm picking up my 2010 GT500 next week. It's been in the shop having the 750 kit and other added. It has 8 miles on it. When I pick it up, I will follow the above process to break it in. Good advise. The "drive it like you stole it" addage just doesn't sit well with me. New parts need to get used to each other and my break-in procedure mirrors yours. I too have had many new performance cars over the last forty plus years and taking it a little easy on the engine during the first 500 miles has served me well. If one choses to hammer the engine right out of the box, you may reap what you sew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torched10 Posted February 19, 2010 Report Share Posted February 19, 2010 Good advise. The "drive it like you stole it" addage just doesn't sit well with me. New parts need to get used to each other and my break-in procedure mirrors yours. I too have had many new performance cars over the last forty plus years and taking it a little easy on the engine during the first 500 miles has served me well. If one choses to hammer the engine right out of the box, you may reap what you sew. To me the most important point is to change the oil early,and use the recommeded oil.I did mine at 600 miles and the filter was dirty, and the oil was definitely darker.The empty filter was much heavier then the new one,I know, I know it was soaked with oil,but this isnt my first rodeo and i coiuld tell it was full of stuff--bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03reptile Posted February 21, 2010 Report Share Posted February 21, 2010 To me the most important point is to change the oil early,and use the recommeded oil.I did mine at 600 miles and the filter was dirty, and the oil was definitely darker.The empty filter was much heavier then the new one,I know, I know it was soaked with oil,but this isnt my first rodeo and i coiuld tell it was full of stuff--bob Agreed again. I change my oil and filter at 1000K. More to let the rings properly seat and other internal parts, and especially with the full synthetic oil we have from day one in our Shelbys. There is definetly a lot of small metal shavings found w/i the filter which the early oil change takes out of the engine. I've always used the FOMOCO oil in the Shelby and stayed with the Mororcraft filter. Have ordered a 2011 and will follow this same procedure when I take possession of it this spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denohew Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Back in the late 80's early 90's I used to build 5.0 LX trunk models that would make Steve Saleen sick! I personally went thru 6 of these cars that I had built at the dealership that I owned at the time. 351 engine swaps, stroker motors, etc.. I also was a Saleen dealer at the time. I had so so many warranty issues with Saleen that I eventually dropped him ( Steve ) in favor of the custom fox's that I built. I would literally take a brand new car and take it apart and rebuild it with my own recipe. 4 wheel disc brakes, 5 lug wheels, all the engine work, new trannies,roll cages etc.. The one thing that comes to mind is that someone that I knew recommended Amsoil. I don't know if I spelled that right. But it was a synthetic. That damn oil caused me more problems that you can imagine! Massive ring blow by. This was before the internet craze and I had to do alot of phone research to figure out that this oil was just too slick. One quart down every 100 miles and a smoking problem. Since I warrantied all the cars that I built ( unlike Saleen ) I changed to good ol' Motorcraft and presto problem solved. This stuff was just too slippery. It would just blow by the rings and FAST! My recommendation at the time for my custom customers was a 100 mile break-in. Vary the rpm's at all times i.e. no cruise control and up and down shift often especially on the highway. Seemed to work to seat the rings until I started putting in that Amsoil. Been using Motorcraft ever since even though now it is for my personal use because I got out of the Ford business in the late 90's. Do not use Pennzoil. Too gummy and I saw a ton of trucks needing new motors using this oil and when I tore them down, you could scrape the oil in gumball like fashion off the valves and oil pan. We had a Pennzoil distributer in town and used to service all there trucks. I do have a 2010 Shelby and it needs an oil change. Motorcraft please!! Happy motoring, denohew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustanggt500 Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 I agree whole heartidly with you Deohew. I'm sticking with all the recommended Motorcraft products that are in the book. I visited one of the 4 ford dealers within 10 miles of me and they have a very cool "garage" like setup parts department. Went in there and they had shelves upon shelves of Motorcraft stuff. Everything that is in my book they had and it was pretty nicely priced. Want to say 6.50 per quart of oil and 14.50 for the coolant. I've had my car for a week now and im closing in on 400 miles (been torn apart putting mods on for a lot of the time or it would have been more miles!) but at 1k im going to go ahead and change the oil out just to pamper it a bit for the first bit of miles on it. I've gotten on it a few times, in my opinion for the purpose of what these cars are built for i have been very mild. Once I'm over 1k i will feel confident that it is ready for anything i will ever do to it. Nic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denohew Posted February 24, 2010 Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 Hey Mustanggt500, I drive my Shelby like as you said " for the purpose of what these cars are built for " ! The only problem is that I am going to need new tires! I have a 2011 on order and I hope the tires will not get noticed when I trade it in!!!! I did a 500 mile road trip upon delivery and I varied the RPM'S on the highway. That was all the break in I did. Many many burnouts and donuts later and the car is just fine. I once had a Ford rep. tell me that the solid axle was going to stay because real hotrodders , old school, still like the " feel " and old school performance of the 60's cars. I tend to agree. He told me to drive the hell out of it and enjoy the way Ford intended it to perform! Well I have and it ' the Shelby " causes a stir at every get together us hotrodders have! Just watch it when you grab 3rd gear after a burn out because the car tends to want to go sideways! Happy motoring, denohew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SicShelby Posted February 24, 2010 Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 I guess I am one of the few but I do believe in breaking in the motor. I don't think it is as important as the olden days when you would want to have your distributor adapter and spin it with a drill to get oil pressure before starting up after a rebuild, but I plan on breaking in my car for about 3-5 thousand 3000-5000 miles before I lay any rubber. Its probably not needed but I plan on having this car for many miles and it is peace of mind to me. I have always broke in all my engines ( from atv's to trucks) and have had extremely good luck so why change now? I'm with you. I took it easy for the first 1,500 miles or so. Who knows if it makes a difference in the modern engines...but it just seemed to make sense to me. It gave me some peace of mind. +1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010 Grabber Blue Shelby Posted February 25, 2010 Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 I took it easy for the first 200-300 miles. After that its difficult not to red line it because 1st gear is like being on ice. It just explodes and you hit red line before you know what's happened. I have about 800 miles on it now and through experimentation realize that you cannot floor 1st gear at any speed. I think my 1st mods will be traction related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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