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Lowering questions - Help a Noob?


jagcret

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My 08 GT500 needs lowering. The suspennsion is stock, and it puts out 553 rwhp. Here are my questions:

 

1. Some aftermarket kits lower the car a little more than FFPP kits. What advantages are there to using an FRPP kit over an aftermarket kit with good shocks like Tokico D-Specs?

 

2. I figure I need an adjustable UCA. If I do, are adjustable LCAs also necessary or advisable?

 

3. What about replacing the UCA with a torque arm, like Griggs offers? Is this a better solution for launch traction AND handling?

 

4. Does anyone have any experience to compare a good panhard rod / adjustable bracket with a Watts set-up?

 

5. Is bump-steer a big enough problem to warrant the parts to reduce eliminate it?

 

Thanks for any insights you can provide!

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My 08 GT500 needs lowering. The suspennsion is stock, and it puts out 553 rwhp. Here are my questions:

 

1. Some aftermarket kits lower the car a little more than FFPP kits. What advantages are there to using an FRPP kit over an aftermarket kit with good shocks like Tokico D-Specs?

I just bought the FRPP Springs seperatly, then used Tokico D-specs like you mentioned, and I love it.

2. I figure I need an adjustable UCA. If I do, are adjustable LCAs also necessary or advisable?

 

An adjustable upper is a must to correct pinion angle, and I would go with adjustable lowers too. I read about someone that lowered their car and the wheels didn't center in the wheel wells, and adjustable lowers fixed the problem. When I got my adjustable BMRs I set them to factory length and I see what that guy meant. The tires sat too far forward towards the engine. A couple turns of the adjustment screw centered them right up.

 

 

3. What about replacing the UCA with a torque arm, like Griggs offers? Is this a better solution for launch traction AND handling?

 

A torque arm is a little more centered towards road racing, I believe. While I'm sure it's a worthy upgrade, I don't think the average joe needs one. But, if you've got the money, nothing will beat a griggs set up.

 

 

4. Does anyone have any experience to compare a good panhard rod / adjustable bracket with a Watts set-up?

Everyone I hear going watts loves them. Again just a little more involved and expensive.

 

5. Is bump-steer a big enough problem to warrant the parts to reduce eliminate it?

 

:shrug:

 

Thanks for any insights you can provide!

 

 

Answers in red. Hope it helps.

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When you lower your car it's a must to add an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear end.

 

If you lower it without one the rearend will shift 1/4-1/2" to the left.

 

I'm not drag racing or road tracking, just a street car and have LCAs, springs and the adj panhard bar so far and have had zero problems and a very much improved handling.

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When you lower your car it's a must to add an adjustable panhard bar to center the rear end.

 

If you lower it without one the rearend will shift 1/4-1/2" to the left.

 

I'm not drag racing or road tracking, just a street car and have LCAs, springs and the adj panhard bar so far and have had zero problems and a very much improved handling.

 

 

 

Hey Texas Shelby,

 

I am getting ready to lower mine as well for better handling and to get rid of the wheel hop just for street use as well. What product did you chose and how much should I plan on spending?

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Hey Texas Shelby,

 

I am getting ready to lower mine as well for better handling and to get rid of the wheel hop just for street use as well. What product did you chose and how much should I plan on spending?

 

 

 

Springs gonna run you around 200-300:

 

http://www.lethalperformance.com/07-09-shelby-gt500-suspension-springs-c-2052_2149_2150

 

Lower control arms from j&m are around 115

 

http://www.lethalperformance.com/suspension-control-arms-lower-control-arms-jproducts-c-2052_2149_2152_2154_3402/j07-09-gt500-street-lower-control-arms-red-p-19980

 

Upper control arm from j&m around 150

 

http://www.lethalperformance.com/suspension-control-arms-upper-control-arms-jproducts-c-2052_2149_2152_2153_3403/j07-09-gt500-street-double-adj-upper-control-arms-black-p-19978

 

For adjustable panhard bar, I would go with the bmr, it is easier to tighten the jam nuts, the j&m jam nuts are at the end of the rod which make it hard to tighten the jam nut on the passenger side.

 

http://www.lethalperformance.com/07-09-shelby-gt500-suspension-panhard-bars-and-braces-bmr-fabrication-c-2052_2149_2156_2801/bmr-2007-gt500-tubular-adjustable-panhard-rod-p-13406

 

 

This should get you the look you want and get rid of the wheel hop. I also went the the tokico d-specs shocks/struts, these are really nice and basically the same shock/struts in the ford kit but cheaper. You can adjust for road racing, street driving and drag racing.

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Springs gonna run you around 200-300:

 

http://www.lethalperformance.com/07-09-shelby-gt500-suspension-springs-c-2052_2149_2150

 

Lower control arms from j&m are around 115

 

http://www.lethalperformance.com/suspension-control-arms-lower-control-arms-jproducts-c-2052_2149_2152_2154_3402/j07-09-gt500-street-lower-control-arms-red-p-19980

 

Upper control arm from j&m around 150

 

http://www.lethalperformance.com/suspension-control-arms-upper-control-arms-jproducts-c-2052_2149_2152_2153_3403/j07-09-gt500-street-double-adj-upper-control-arms-black-p-19978

 

For adjustable panhard bar, I would go with the bmr, it is easier to tighten the jam nuts, the j&m jam nuts are at the end of the rod which make it hard to tighten the jam nut on the passenger side.

 

http://www.lethalperformance.com/07-09-shelby-gt500-suspension-panhard-bars-and-braces-bmr-fabrication-c-2052_2149_2156_2801/bmr-2007-gt500-tubular-adjustable-panhard-rod-p-13406

 

 

This should get you the look you want and get rid of the wheel hop. I also went the the tokico d-specs shocks/struts, these are really nice and basically the same shock/struts in the ford kit but cheaper. You can adjust for road racing, street driving and drag racing.

 

 

Thanks for the info Leonard.

 

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With just springs and adj panhard will it help the wheel hop any???

 

 

I'm going to say no, and that's just from reading things here and there on the forum.

 

If you want to eliminate wheel hop, then you want to pursue adjustable UCA's and maybe even LCA's (I would imagine).

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With just springs and adj panhard will it help the wheel hop any???

 

 

Some say that after lowering the car, all wheel hop was gone. Others don't get rid of it until they do the whole sha-bang. If you're paying a shop to do the labor, I would just get everything you need and do it all at once, but if you can turn a wrench, then do it in steps. Start w/ the springs and panhard bar. If that's not enough, do the lowers next. Finally do the upper.

 

I agree on getting some type of adjustable shock/strut too. I went w/ tokico Dspecs also. Lowing the car w/ out them usually creates a bouncier ride. With them you can adjust feel to your preference.

 

Don't forget to get the front end aligned. Usually there are no problems, but some have needed either camber bolts or some type of caster/camber plates. I used steeda's heavy duty strut mounts that allow for camber adjustments and all was well. I have the ford lowering springs, BMR adj. lower control arms w/ relocation brackets, and a J&M upper control arm w/ a BMR mount.

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I know of couple people in my area that have put the FRPP Handling Package on along with Steeda LCA's and Adjustable Panhard Bar. They both say that the handling is very much improved with no more wheel hop.

 

I do have one question and that is if you go with an adjustable panhard bar what does the panhard brace provide you? (not trying to hijack the thread just thought I would ask since the topic is on lowering question)

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I know of couple people in my area that have put the FRPP Handling Package on along with Steeda LCA's and Adjustable Panhard Bar. They both say that the handling is very much improved with no more wheel hop.

 

I do have one question and that is if you go with an adjustable panhard bar what does the panhard brace provide you? (not trying to hijack the thread just thought I would ask since the topic is on lowering question)

 

 

 

I was curious about the panhard brace too. When I contacted Lethal Performance for all of my suspension mods, I asked them about this. I was basically told that the brace isn't totally necessary on a street driven vehicle. If you're drag racing your car, or taking it on the road course all the time, then I would go ahead and get it. But when I was on the phone w/ them they also said that their car only had the adjustable bar, NOT the brace. So........

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Hey Texas Shelby,

 

I am getting ready to lower mine as well for better handling and to get rid of the wheel hop just for street use as well. What product did you chose and how much should I plan on spending?

 

 

Depending on if your's is driver, this is what I went with and has worked well. Although the previous reply regarding Lethal Performance is something you can't go wrong with.

 

I purchased my BMR LCAs and adj. Panhard Bar from Jared at Lethal and think very highly of him. I did however purchase my springs from Steeda, mainly because back in '06, no one at all had a "vert" specific spring except Steeda. But if you're running a fastback, I think the FRPP or Eibach's both will work fine. But if it's a vert, be very careful and make sure the springs are for a vert or your front end will drag like a short ladies butt when she steps off a curb.

 

These prices were late '06 early '07, so I'm sure they've gone up some.

 

Steeda Springs for the vert (5558218), $250

BMR LCAs (Lethal), $135

BMR adjustable Panhard Bar $135

 

I Purchased a panhard bar relocation bracket, but never installed it and everything is working just fine. If you feel you just have to have one, PM me and I'll make you a good price on this one.

 

As stated before, this took care of all the issues of wheel hop, and adding the Nitto INVO 20" tires increased traction by about 60%, and lowered the road noise immensely. And the ride is not that much worse believe it or not. But with the springs and tires and wheels, it does make a head turner out of it. People at a cruise night at Sonic walk right past Z06s to "see the Shelby".

 

Hope this helps.

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If just going for the look with ffrp springs and adj pahard bar will the stock shocks work and hold up ok.

 

 

Although one company wanted to sell me about $1000 worth of stuff in the name of "YOU NEED THIS IF YOU LOWER YOUR CAR", to answer your question. No. you need nothing else, not even new camber plates or bolts. Just a re-align.

But I'd really spend the extra couple hundred and get new LCAs too, you won't be sorry.

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With just springs and adj panhard will it help the wheel hop any???

 

 

Well I did the ford racing springs and bmr adj. panhard bar and alignment. Great bang for the buck. Look is how it should have been from the factory. Can now see out the rear window and steering is greatly improved. Didnt do the lca yet because I am a bit concerned about using poly bushings and the noise that comes with them. Wheel hop is a little better but not gone. Thanks for all the good info on here to help make the right choice for me for now. May do lca later.

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