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Billet Hood Strut Kit


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Dumb question. Did you put the bracket between the hood & hinge, or on top of the hood hinge? If you put it between, you effectively shimmed the hood up.

 

I wouldn't tighten it more, you could break something or ruin the threads.

 

+1

 

The fender bracket needs to be on top of the fender...NOT under the fender lip. The directions can be a tad confusing on this.

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+1

 

The fender bracket needs to be on top of the fender...NOT under the fender lip. The directions can be a tad confusing on this.

 

 

Thanks for your help, i call Steeda today they were no help. I have the fender bracket that came with a stick on lable on the correct sides with the stick on lable faceing up, bracket was installed by last fender bolt close to hood hing, bracket metal just touching plastic windsheild apron, also do have lift pistons correctly installed. It just that their is a bit of a lip between the hood and fender. We slightly moved drives bracket out torwards engine (cocked) a bit and it helped the fit, but i do think it is still sprung a bit at those mounting areas on each side. :sos:

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You guys are too much ok i did wax the car and the dust in photos the camera saw but not me. Here are the pics sorry they are large files will try to attach four of them. Rember i bought these from Steeda.

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Hans bothg of your brakets are on upside down and on the wrong side of the car! Perhaps they put the stickers on the wrong side.

 

look at my pics.

 

 

That's almost as good as me busting my butt trying to compress the piston/rod assembly to make it fit. I'm standing there, looking at the space I have from mount to mount as the hood rests on the factory prop and in a momentary brain fart, I decide I need to have these things compressed to that length to make them fit!!!

:finger::finger::drop::drop::doh::doh::banghead::banghead::hysterical2:

 

What a doofus.

 

First of all, you ain't compressin' nuttin'. It simply doesn't work. Secondly, imagine my amazement and glee when I simply lift the hood up a little further and realize it'll actually open to about 90 degrees. I can't EVEN believe I'm admitting this, but maybe Hans can feel a little better about himself now.

 

:hysterical:

 

bj

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The body (the part filled with fluid) is connected to hood (or on top).

:hysterical2:

You are probably right it doesn't matter, the cylinder will probably last 40 years anyway you put it.

 

My 96 Explorer is equiped with the struts from the factory with the shock body attached to the hood. They lost most all of their spring rate after about 8 years and I replaced them. The more their used the longer they will last.

IMO having the seal facing down hood open and aft hood closed will minimize debris from damaging the seal.

LW

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That's almost as good as me busting my butt trying to compress the piston/rod assembly to make it fit. I'm standing there, looking at the space I have from mount to mount as the hood rests on the factory prop and in a momentary brain fart, I decide I need to have these things compressed to that length to make them fit!!!

:finger::finger::drop::drop::doh::doh::banghead::banghead::hysterical2:

 

What a doofus.

 

First of all, you ain't compressin' nuttin'. It simply doesn't work. Secondly, imagine my amazement and glee when I simply lift the hood up a little further and realize it'll actually open to about 90 degrees. I can't EVEN believe I'm admitting this, but maybe Hans can feel a little better about himself now.

 

:hysterical:

 

bj

 

 

Ok, if you're willing to admit it, so am I. I did the same thing.

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Ok, if you're willing to admit it, so am I. I did the same thing.

 

 

Thanks guys for your imput, I believe that the sticker were incorretly placed on the wrong brackit, it would make sense that the long side or high side would be faceing down for a more solid fit. :doh: Hope nothing is bent with the hood. Must go make some $$$ now. :hyper:

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  • 1 month later...
The "spring" problem does not exist on the heavier GT hood on our California Special. It goes up slow and with control and eases to a stop.

 

I am ordering the hood struts from Steeda today. Birthday present from my Bride. I selected them because of the great info you folks have provided on this thread. I really like having a place to go for unbias feedback. I do have one question about the hood weight. I assumed the GT and California Special hood was heavier because it was steel and the GT500 hood was alum. The guy I spoke with at Steeda says all the factory mustang hoods are alum. is this true?

I also intend to color match the brackets. I wasn't able to pull up pictures of them painted but in my mind I think they might look better.

 

thanks

LW

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  • 4 weeks later...
I am ordering the hood struts from Steeda today. Birthday present from my Bride. I selected them because of the great info you folks have provided on this thread. I really like having a place to go for unbias feedback. I do have one question about the hood weight. I assumed the GT and California Special hood was heavier because it was steel and the GT500 hood was alum. The guy I spoke with at Steeda says all the factory mustang hoods are alum. is this true?

I also intend to color match the brackets. I wasn't able to pull up pictures of them painted but in my mind I think they might look better.

 

thanks

LW

Did you end up painting your brackets white ? Are your going to do your Strut tower in White. I think it would look great.

 

My Go ones turned out great. :happy feet:

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Get those eyes checked today, it is PINK.

I thought this was a thread about hood struts. :finger:

 

I installed mine tonight....

Steeda p/n 555-0650, $130 + shipping, went on like a breeze except I'm not real fond of how they handled the washer fluid hose routing.

 

I also installed LCAs....but I'll post that info in another thread.

 

Dave

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  • 2 months later...
The body (the part filled with fluid) is connected to hood (or on top).

:hysterical2:

You are probably right it doesn't matter, the cylinder will probably last 40 years anyway you put it.

 

I'm building a plane with the same struts in the doors... The builders manual states:

 

Note: The gas struts are charged to a pressure sufficient to lift the completed doors and have oil in

them to damp the last few degrees of movement when opening. The damper will only work if the

cylinder is uppermost.

 

Hope that helps..

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