magrag Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Has anyone tried to modify the stock lower control arms to help eliminate wheel hop??? Back in the late 60's it was common practice on GM cars with rear coil springs to drive nails into the soft rubber bushings to make them somewhat stiffer and help get rid of wheel hop. Do you thing this might work? Anything else that has been tried on the stock lower control arms?? Thanks for any help BTW I am not happy with my BMR lower arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew DeSpirito Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 BTW I am not happy with my BMR lower arms. Curious as to why you're not happy with your BMR LCAs...I have a set of the BMR Billet LCAs waiting to be installed. Can you elaborate? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
me32 Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 try going with the J&M LCA with poly ball bushings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
54First Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Back in the late 60's it was common practice on GM cars with rear coil springs to drive nails into the soft rubber bushings to make them somewhat stiffer and help get rid of wheel hop. BTW I am not happy with my BMR lower arms. It puzzles me that you think nails in your bushings (and in front of your tires) is preferable to professional control arms. I have BMR poly/rod end adjustables. I'm happy. What don't you like? Not giving a reason is just a cheap shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kb67 Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 The materials avaliable now are way better than driving nails into a rubber bushing to try and keep it from flexing. Someone posted in one of your earlier threads that the upper control arm is your big contributor to wheel hop the Roush unit seems to work well there also the J&M stuff works good nails ain't the answer and its unsafe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianspony Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Has anyone tried to modify the stock lower control arms to help eliminate wheel hop??? Back in the late 60's it was common practice on GM cars with rear coil springs to drive nails into the soft rubber bushings to make them somewhat stiffer and help get rid of wheel hop. Do you thing this might work? Anything else that has been tried on the stock lower control arms?? Thanks for any help BTW I am not happy with my BMR lower arms. Give these a try you will be very happy. http://www.ajusa.com/details/index/633/0/0/PTP+6-312-BL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZXMustang Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Correct me if Im wrong, but its not the control arms that make the car wheel hop. Its the rubber bushings. All you need are the correct bushings. The control arms are not bending causing wheel hop. I think its hilarious that people are spending hundreds on control arms when all they need are upgraded bushings. Heres a link to what you need.....pennies compared to the control arms. http://www.energysuspension.com/search-result-details.html?id=1384&make=12&year=2005&model=272&partNumSearch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magrag Posted December 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Sorry that I didn't get right back with some answers about BMR bars, so here goes. I put them on in April of this year and now have about 3,000 miles on them. The very first thing that I noticed was that they created a rattle sound but wheel hop was much better. The worst problem I am having started a couple months ago. When I back out of the drive and take off a loud thud happens and sometimes it seems like a severe wheel hop, but different than what it had with the stock bars. I believe that I read somewhere here that someone had problems with the bushings on the BMR bars tearing out. This sounds like what has happened to mine. When I take them off it will be interesting to see. So in the next week or so I am going to put the stock bars on. But before I put the old bars on I thought maybe I could do something to the stock ones. I must say that I too am very disapointed in Ford for not correcting this problem from the very start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glroy Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 I went with the steeda upper and lowers wheel hop a thing of the past. would bushing make a deliverance? probably but you would be installing them in to the factory pressed steel control arms that look like they belong on a red flyer wagon not a 500 hp performance car Just my 2 cents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Secondo Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 I replaced the bushings in the stock upper and lower control arms to the polyurethane ones that Brianspony mentioned. No more wheelhop. I believe the wheelhop is 75% caused by the large squishy upper control arm bushing and 25% combination of the 4 rubber lower bushings. I believe Ford made them that way to avoid any NVH. However, I don't notice much of a difference with the poly bushings installed, just the lack of wheelhop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianspony Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 I replaced the bushings in the stock upper and lower control arms to the polyurethane ones that Brianspony mentioned. No more wheelhop. I believe the wheelhop is 75% caused by the large squishy upper control arm bushing and 25% combination of the 4 rubber lower bushings. I believe Ford made them that way to avoid any NVH. However, I don't notice much of a difference with the poly bushings installed, just the lack of wheelhop. And at $77 and free shipping from AJUSA I doubt you'll find them anywhere else for less $$$$. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaker281 Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 The Roush UCA is more than just a stiffer poly bushing in a stock arm. The metal is thicker and reinforced, plus the diameter of the bushing is decreased, thus they are able to utilize a rubber bushing and avoid the issues associated with poly. Since, I paid $160 for my Roush UCA with a "pro" discount, I am very pleased. As far as the BMR "boxed" lowers, mine look fine and are torqued perfectly along with synthetic grease. But, I still get some noise on certain manuevers. I would have tried the Roush billet lowers had I known this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VNMOUS1 Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 Sorry that I didn't get right back with some answers about BMR bars, so here goes. I put them on in April of this year and now have about 3,000 miles on them. The very first thing that I noticed was that they created a rattle sound but wheel hop was much better. The worst problem I am having started a couple months ago. When I back out of the drive and take off a loud thud happens and sometimes it seems like a severe wheel hop, but different than what it had with the stock bars. I believe that I read somewhere here that someone had problems with the bushings on the BMR bars tearing out. This sounds like what has happened to mine. When I take them off it will be interesting to see. Wow. I have BMR billet (the square-ish black ones) lowers. I've seen people popping out bushings...ripping mounts...man, people must drive a lot harder than I do! I have 540 rwhp and less than 520 ft lbs torque. I have over 100 passes on this setup with absolutely NO problems...and there are the ones that had the bad bushing issue. I've just never experienced it. Maybe I'm driving it TOO hard. It's working just fine. bj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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