DaFreak Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Hi All, I forgot that I bought not one but two oil separator kits awhile back. I originally bought the Steeda kit but I didn't like how it just sort of hung in place as well its small chamber size. I later bought the UPR kit as I liked the look, the larger size and the integrated mounting bracket. Hmmm, makes me wonder what other mods I might have packed away So this morning I decided to pull off the PVC hose to see if I really needed to do this install. I have sort of been on the fence so far as I have read many of your opinions/experiences on the matter. To date I only have 550 miles on the car so I was not expecting to see much oil. I have to say I was a little surprised at how much I did find. You can't see very much from the pic but it was thicker than expected on both ends as well as inside the hose. It even dripped a few times once I had it off the car. So I decided to go for the UPR install. The UPR install instructions call for cutting the original PVC hose about 2" from where it attaches to the factory hose adapters and somehow fitting the provided 3/8" rubber hose over (maybe it said under/inside) it. I decided to go a different route as I don't want to destroy the factory PVC hose should I decide to go back. So I used a bit of boiling water over the hose ends and pulled everything apart. My plan was to then use the supplied 3/8" rubber hose and connect it directly to the factory hose adapters, the supplied 3/8" (plastic/cheap) can adapters and install the can to the strut clip. But no can do on getting the 3/8" hose onto the factory hose adapters. It just flat out does not fit. I was thinking of swapping out the cheap 3/8" plastic can adapters for 5/8" aluminum or brass ones (ha, that's funny) and getting some 5/8" hose but I figure I'd better ask the pro's (you) first. So I need some advice on what kind of hose/adapters you think would work best for my setup as well as any other tips or tricks you can offer. Thanks in advance, DaFreak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doogie65 Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 I have seen quite a few use Earl's Econ-o-fit clamps or Spectre Magna-Clamps with some type of braided line connected directly to those stock fittings (10 -AN hose). It makes for a very clean connection. I will see if I can dig up a few pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lawdude Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Sorry to display my ignorance, but is this the same as a catch can? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaFreak Posted December 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Sorry to display my ignorance, but is this the same as a catch can? As far as I know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod_Michel Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Took at look at your rig and like the UPR over the Steeda kit ( http://www.jegs.com/i/Steeda/957/555-3710/10002/-1 ) as the Steeda setup looks fugly and the catch can small. On this end, am thinking seriously about going this direction (see article on how one dude evolved his 'home grown' rig) => http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/sn95-cobras-24/628462-diy-oil-separator-catch-can-w-pics-write-up.html This is a great poor man's solution! http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/173161-make-your-own-oil-seperator-21-a.html "Parts from Autozone; Campbell Hausfeld #MP5138...$11.99 #MP3314 3/8" hose repair kit...............................$ 3.99 #MP3207 3/8" hose end......................................$ 1.99 3' of 3/8" fuel line hose 1.18 a foot.......................$ 3.54 You'll need 3 black tie straps and some teflon tape which I already had. Put tape on threads of two 3/8" ends and screw into filter. Check air flow arrow and mount as pictured with two tie straps. I put a piece of doublesided tape between unit and car body for a buffer. Undo hose from driver's side vent, take off large rubber adaptor, slide on new hose with clamp from repair kit, tighten and snap back into valve cover. Run other end to filter and slip it on, no clamp needed, inlet side. Attach the new hose to outlet side of filter and run to hose coming from supercharger back. Splice both hoses together using the brass fitting from the repair kit. Use both remaining clamps on this connection. Be sure to run the middle joint up into the factory hose side and clamp..will fit perfectly. I used the 3rd tie strap to anchor the line along the firewall nice and straight. Thats it! Took 30min to do! Just trying to help. Later Charles" Rod As far as I know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 When I installed my catch can, I used 1/2" fuel line and 8AN fittings. I used 8AN male to 1/4" NPT adapters on the can side. The 90 degree swivel adapters work really slick. BTW - I like your elegant method for removing the connectors from the OEM PCV hose. Was it as easy as soaking them in boiling water and yanking them off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2010KonaBlueGT Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Sorry to display my ignorance, but is this the same as a catch can? Ehh, sort'a/kind'a. A puke can (i.e. "catch can") is used on a non-PCV equipped motor. Rather than using engine manifold vacuum to create a positive crankcase ventilation system (i.e. vacuum, or lower than atmospheric pressure) you simply connect a hose from a crankcase source and exit the open end of the hose to the puke can, rather than allow oil to drip out on the car/road/track/etc. The oil separator such as he's installing on his car still gives you the ADVANTAGE (it is a big advantage to purge the CC and create a negative pressure within it) of positive CC venting but it catches the oil vapor, separates it, then collects it and keeps it from entering the intake. The air going through the PCV vent line is 'cleaned' per se and thereby keeping oil out of the intake and associated parts/passages. Remember, oil is a Hydrocarbon (HC), the same as gasoline is but much thicker. It will gum up your intercooler passages, intake ports, etc. PFI is a 'dry system' so there is no gasoline moving through the intake/ports to clean the walls such as with a carb'd model. So...ehh, the same but different. In my professional opinion, it is a GREAT idea to use an oil separator and even more so on a forced induction engine where crankcase pressures will be MUCH higher than with a naturally aspirated engine. If you pump one atmosphere/BAR (14.7 psi) of boost into a engine, you are *literally* forcing 10 pounds of shit into a 5 pound bag (a old saying, for you youngsters). A 5.4 liter engine suddenly becomes a 10.8 liter engine under 1-BAR (~15 psi) of boost. And how many GT500's do you see running *more* than 15 psi of boost? Quite a few...some are trying to get upwards of 1.8 to 2-BAR. HTH, Phill Pollard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaFreak Posted December 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 When I installed my catch can, I used 1/2" fuel line and 8AN fittings. I used 8AN male to 1/4" NPT adapters on the can side. The 90 degree swivel adapters work really slick. BTW - I like your elegant method for removing the connectors from the OEM PCV hose. Was it as easy as soaking them in boiling water and yanking them off? Nice clean setup 6-Speed. Looks great. It was super easy removing the OEM connectors. I actually poured boiling water over the hose portion of the connection for 5-10 seconds rather than soaking the entire end. Then a quick pull with a twist and the connector pops off with little effort. Thanks (all of you) for the feedback. DaFreak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doogie65 Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Here's an example of the Spectre Magna-Clamps (all the red/blue fitttings) attached to those stock fittings using some stainless braided lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaFreak Posted December 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 Here's an example of the Spectre Magna-Clamps (all the red/blue fitttings) attached to those stock fittings using some stainless braided lines. Sexy! Thanks Doogie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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