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WIKD500 HID FOG-LIGHT INSTALL

 

I ordered my Fog-Light kit from HIDGUY the neat part about this, is they are locally in San Diego, CA and I was able to pick them up and install on a Sunday. Oscar owner of HIDGUY.net was kind enough to open his shop and test the kit before selling them to me. The kit I requested was something close to the factory look. Him and others form another Shelby site said to go with the Xentec 5000K Slim Ballast HID kit Part #5202 for a 2009 SHELBY GT500.

 

DSC_0010.jpg

 

Everything in the kit looks of good quality. The install was a breeze and the meaning of Plug and Play was dead on.

 

1st step was to lift the car and once underneath the fog lights are easy to get too. Hear are images of the rear of the fog lights.:

DSC_0018.jpg

 

2nd step was to squeeze the black connector from the fog light:

DSC_0021.jpg

 

Connector Removed

DSC_0025.jpg

 

3rd Step is to install the new HID Fog Lamp. Here the new lamp compared to the original lamp

DSC_0027.jpg

 

Here is the New HID Fog Lamp installed

DSC_0030.jpg

 

All the connectors only go on one way and the hardest part of the install was looking for a place to mount the ballast. They do come with double sided sticky tape and some tie wraps. Which I used both due to not trusting the double sided type.

DSC_0032.jpg

 

I found a pretty nice location and installed near the fog lamp assembly.

DSC_0043.jpg

 

Once everything was installed here is the before and after pics..

 

BEFORE

DSC_0014.jpg

 

AFTER

DSC_0039.jpg

 

More Pics

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Be careful with those HID upgrades in the stock housings. Most who have had them installed for a length of time and USED them, find the housing melted inside and the reflector bubbling up. The cheap plastic stock housings just cannot take the additional heat load. HIDGUY has said they are working on a source for glass replacement housings to solve this problem but for the moment, you might not want to use / purchase these upgrade lamps for the stock housing.

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WIKD500 HID FOG-LIGHT INSTALL

 

I ordered my Fog-Light kit from HIDGUY the neat part about this, is they are locally in San Diego, CA and I was able to pick them up and install on a Sunday. Oscar owner of HIDGUY.net was kind enough to open his shop and test the kit before selling them to me. The kit I requested was something close to the factory look. Him and others form another Shelby site said to go with the Xentec 5000K Slim Ballast HID kit Part #5202 for a 2009 SHELBY GT500.

 

DSC_0010.jpg

 

Everything in the kit looks of good quality. The install was a breeze and the meaning of Plug and Play was dead on.

 

1st step was to lift the car and once underneath the fog lights are easy to get too. Hear are images of the rear of the fog lights.:

DSC_0018.jpg

 

2nd step was to squeeze the black connector from the fog light:

DSC_0021.jpg

 

Connector Removed

DSC_0025.jpg

 

3rd Step is to install the new HID Fog Lamp. Here the new lamp compared to the original lamp

DSC_0027.jpg

 

Here is the New HID Fog Lamp installed

DSC_0030.jpg

 

All the connectors only go on one way and the hardest part of the install was looking for a place to mount the ballast. They do come with double sided sticky tape and some tie wraps. Which I used both due to not trusting the double sided type.

DSC_0032.jpg

 

I found a pretty nice location and installed near the fog lamp assembly.

DSC_0043.jpg

 

Once everything was installed here is the before and after pics..

 

BEFORE

DSC_0014.jpg

 

AFTER

DSC_0039.jpg

 

More Pics

 

 

The 5ks are a lot bluer than I expected compared to stock. I guess the Factory HIDs must be closer to 4300k.

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I have the 6,000 K White blue top and bottom so far they are tight no issues with the melting of housing. They are bright and some folks don't like them, but I think for me the look and the brightness was just perfect, as well as the quality contruction. I did have them installed it was inexpensive. :dance:

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All HID capsules burn cooler than standard Halogen bulbs. I have been running aftermarket H.I.D. capsules for several years in my cars, and have never had any heat related (melted housings) issues what so ever.

 

High Intensity Discharge Lighting:

 

High Intensity Discharge, aka HID, aka Xenon lamps are highly efficient form of lighting that is becoming more common on high end vehicles. These lamps are really arc lamps and produce a very white light, close to the color of daylight and as powerful as a 300 watt bulb.

 

An igniter module provides about 28,000 volts at 85 watts, to strike the arc and then the ballast module provides a reduced voltage sufficient to maintain the arc. Once warmed up, the lamp only draws about 35 watts.

 

The bulbs, or Capsules provide different light colors dependant on the make up of the fill gas and the chemical salts coating the inside of the capsule. The optimum color is that of daylight, or about 4300 degrees K. Some manufacturers, such as BMW supply a 6000K capsule which produces a more purple light. Capsules with higher K ratings than that leave performance behind in search of a "Kooler" blue look. These bulbs reach into the ultraviolet end of the spectrum and when they reach 10,000K, actually produce less visible light than a stock halogen bulb.

 

Due to their high efficiency, HID lamps produce little heat. This can be a problem in frigid climates since they may not produce enough heat to melt the snow off of a lamp. We have had reports of the inability of HID lamps to start up at temperatures of minus 40 degrees F. In Europe, Vehicles with HID headlamps are required to have headlamp washing systems, partly to address this problem.

 

Because HID headlamps are used on the road in Europe, they have to meet the conditions and the qualifications of the German TÜV, their equivalent of our DOT. Hella ballasts contain the RF field normally generated by this technology. They also have built in protection to shut the lamp off in the event of a crash and damage. The ballast associated with any HID, when it first turns on, sends out a 28,000V signal to the capsule to strike the arc, then it tapers off to about 40V to keep it going. If the ballast detects the discharge shutting off, the ignitor sends the 28,000V signal again. If you are in an accident and damage the lamps, you'd have 28,000V surging into what may be a pool of gasoline. The design used by Hella detects this condition and shuts the lamps down.

 

That's just a excerpt from one article. You can do a Google search that will list many, many, articles which also state that HID capsules operate cooler than Halogen.

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In this case the HID does use more power and produces more heat than the halogen it replaces. The stock 'fog lamp' is only 25 watts. The running power for the HID replacement is 35, 10 more watts of heat into the plastic housing. Many have bubbled and distorted as a result. We need a glass housing for the fogs.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Avoid the PUTCO bulbs they get too hot!

 

If you go HID, do not use a ballast rated at more than 30W (watts).

 

I have the 30W ballasts and no issues to report after 1 year of use.

 

 

Hey rlhay2 - Did you have problems with the PUTCO bulbs? They appear to be the only H16/9009 bulbs on the market. Anyone else know of a different manufacture?

 

BTW: I have some ice blue Halo Headlights. I really like them so far. http://www.halolightstore.com/

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  • 1 year later...

Hey rlhay2 - Did you have problems with the PUTCO bulbs? They appear to be the only H16/9009 bulbs on the market. Anyone else know of a different manufacture?

 

BTW: I have some ice blue Halo Headlights. I really like them so far. http://www.halolightstore.com/

 

 

The only other manufacture that I've found is Nokya, but it's a 35W bulb too. I installed them before I found out the factory ones were only rated at 25W. So I don't use them. Since they have the same wattage as the Putco's I'd expect the same warping results.

 

LED's would be next, but reading up on Kelvin ratings...I would want something under 5k and so far I haven't found any.

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