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Let's talk suspension for 09 GT500


bonefish

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So...what do you have? What do you think of it? Post a pic if you can to show your drop!

 

I have seen the FRPP ones. Look pretty good. Someone suggested Steeda....

 

Also..I understand I need to do a adjustable panhard bar...what do you have a recommend for that one?

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Steeda is good, but Griggs is better. No offense to anyone.

 

As for springs I love Eibach and I have always put my trust in their products.

 

FRPP I like their springs and dampers, but most people that have the GT500's like just the springs and go with Tokico D-Spec Shocks for a smoother ride. To prevent wheel hop I think once you lower your ride with new springs and shocks, I don't think you need a panhard bar. Anyone want to clarify on that one? Anyways, I don't have a GT 500, just repeating what I've been hearing at car shows, forum chat and at the race track.

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I like the Ford Racing springs - lowers rear by 1.5" and the front by 0.94" (with MM camber plates) at the wheel wells. Lowering the rear shifted my wheel out towards the drivers side; used a BMR adjustable panhard bar to bring it back centered.

 

IMG_4011_Cropped.jpg

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quote name='super_snake67' date='Nov 14 2009, 10:07 PM' post='847813']

Steeda is good, but Griggs is better. No offense to anyone.

 

As for springs I love Eibach and I have always put my trust in their products.

 

FRPP I like their springs and dampers, but most people that have the GT500's like just the springs and go with Tokico D-Spec Shocks for a smoother ride. To prevent wheel hop I think once you lower your ride with new springs and shocks, I don't think you need a panhard bar. Anyone want to clarify on that one? Anyways, I don't have a GT 500, just repeating what I've been hearing at car shows, forum chat and at the race track.

 

A Watts Link eliminates the need for a panhard rod. A panhard rod is attached to one side of the frame and the opposite side of the differential, this keeps the differential centered under the cars body, problem with a panhard rod is the differential is actually traveling in an arc as is moves through the up and down range, so your wheels are not "squared" under different ride heights.

The Watts Link allows the differential to move up and down and stay centered to the body of the car.

Edit: this pix shows a panhard rod in the center.

post-5223-1258259529_thumb.jpg

post-5223-1258259529_thumb.jpg

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quote name='super_snake67' date='Nov 14 2009, 10:07 PM' post='847813']

Steeda is good, but Griggs is better. No offense to anyone.

 

As for springs I love Eibach and I have always put my trust in their products.

 

FRPP I like their springs and dampers, but most people that have the GT500's like just the springs and go with Tokico D-Spec Shocks for a smoother ride. To prevent wheel hop I think once you lower your ride with new springs and shocks, I don't think you need a panhard bar. Anyone want to clarify on that one? Anyways, I don't have a GT 500, just repeating what I've been hearing at car shows, forum chat and at the race track.

 

A Watts Link eliminates the need for a panhard rod. A panhard rod is attached to one side of the frame and the opposite side of the differential, this keeps the differential centered under the cars body, problem with a panhard rod is the differential is actually traveling in an arc as is moves through the up and down range, so your wheels are not "squared" under different ride heights.

The Watts Link allows the differential to move up and down and stay centered to the body of the car.

Edit: this pix shows a panhard rod in the center.

This pix shows a Watts Link

post-5223-1258259817_thumb.jpg

post-5223-1258259817_thumb.jpg

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quote name='super_snake67' date='Nov 14 2009, 10:07 PM' post='847813']

Steeda is good, but Griggs is better. No offense to anyone.

 

As for springs I love Eibach and I have always put my trust in their products.

 

FRPP I like their springs and dampers, but most people that have the GT500's like just the springs and go with Tokico D-Spec Shocks for a smoother ride. To prevent wheel hop I think once you lower your ride with new springs and shocks, I don't think you need a panhard bar. Anyone want to clarify on that one? Anyways, I don't have a GT 500, just repeating what I've been hearing at car shows, forum chat and at the race track.

 

A Watts Link eliminates the need for a panhard rod. A panhard rod is attached to one side of the frame and the opposite side of the differential, this keeps the differential centered under the cars body, problem with a panhard rod is the differential is actually traveling in an arc as is moves through the up and down range, so your wheels are not "squared" under different ride heights.

The Watts Link allows the differential to move up and down and stay centered to the body of the car.

Edit: this pix shows a panhard rod in the center.

 

Here's a picture of my car with the complete FRPP set-up with MM caster-camber plates.

 

 

DSCN0469-1.jpg

 

 

 

These pictures show a Saleen Watts Link.

 

 

DSCN0357.jpg

 

 

 

DSCN0360.jpg

 

 

Sorry for the dirt, she's not a grarage queen (no offense intented to anyone).

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