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So now that I have the fire extinguisher question out of the way - I want to see as many photos of a roll bar being installed into an S197 as you've got.

Any other detail of the install would be great too. I'm thinking of trying to build my own. I've got lots of downtime at work for the next couple months (weather cooling, power load decreasing) and nothing but endless piles of materials to work with.

Seems like it could be a challenging project, but one that might save me some dough. I really need to find out how and where the roll bar attaches inside of your car, whether the bar is a bolt in or weld in, what spec is required for SCCA/NASA time trials/competition/etc, and lots of other things I'm not thinking of yet I'm sure.

 

Any help is much appreciated.

 

Ken

Edited by kahmann
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The SCCA General Competition Rules are available for download, and will contain pretty specific requirements for rollover bars and cages:

SCCA, Inc.

 

If you aren't interested in full racing protection, you may find Solo Rules are a bit different, but with a car having the potential of supercharged Mustangs, I would go full SCCA specs. Even those aren't enough in some cases, but there's no sense in cutting corners, my view.

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Roll bar or Roll cage?

 

SCCA requires that the cages pass inspection before each race. So if you can build a cage that passes inspection you should be fine.

 

I would weld on a support plate, then bolt the roll bar in the place to where you are happy with it (6 inches behind you and two inches above your helmet), then weld it in.

 

Just remember; please don't don't don't take short cuts.

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Roll bar or Roll cage?

 

SCCA requires that the cages pass inspection before each race. So if you can build a cage that passes inspection you should be fine.

 

I would weld on a support plate, then bolt the roll bar in the place to where you are happy with it (6 inches behind you and two inches above your helmet), then weld it in.

 

Just remember; please don't don't don't take short cuts.

4 point bar

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4 point bar

 

FWIW Autopower (also available from Steeda at same price, they just re-sell the Autopower) has a nice 4 point bolt in roll bar with a removable harness bar. You can weld the roll bar in if so inclined. The braces go back thru the plastic side panels on either side of the rear seat to the rear wheel wells and you can still fold down the rear seats.

 

I would highly recommend *against* a SCCA competetion legal (check the General Competition rules on the SCCA web site above) roll cage in a street car. It requires tubing from the main hoop behind you to the front windshield cross bar and down and if you are not wearing a helmet hitting roll bar tubing with your head could be deadly in a minor accident. SCCA rules also require dual door bars in production cars and getting in and out of that on a regular basis on the street is a PITA.

 

Decide what you are going to use/need this for first, then design/build or buy, it's a lot easier to do it once right the first time than to retrofit.

 

Check out Steeda/Autopower 4 point bolt in for S197. Again FWIW this is what I installed in 1638. I simply painted battleship grey to match the interior charcoal grey color and it blends right in.

 

Regards,

 

Todd Butler

SGT1638

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I intend on attempting to qualify for NASA time trials/HPDE-4 at some point. Perhaps eventually, I'd like to try to get a comp license through NASA.

I can't stand the SCCA events for the most part, so I won't be worrying much about their regulations. According to the NASA site, I need a 4 point for TT/HPDE-4.

Thanks for the info.

 

Ken

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I intend on attempting to qualify for NASA time trials/HPDE-4 at some point. Perhaps eventually, I'd like to try to get a comp license through NASA.

I can't stand the SCCA events for the most part, so I won't be worrying much about their regulations. According to the NASA site, I need a 4 point for TT/HPDE-4.

Thanks for the info.

 

Ken

 

Have you talked to John about the bar Griggs makes? It goes in pretty easily and can be converted to a 4-point and inevitably the foundation for a full cage if one was so inclined. I'm a bit biased, but we actually take the time to get the bar as close to the headliner as possible with out cutting the visible interior panels and it ties into the grade 10.9 bolt that the seat beat attaches to (keeps the B-pillar attached to the bar, much cleaner looking.. IMO.

 

And... they just lowered the price :)

 

http://www.grigg ing.com/product_info.p...products_id=585

 

Colin

Edited by GR40Freak
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"I would highly recommend *against* a SCCA competetion legal (check the General Competition rules on the SCCA web site above) roll cage in a street car. It requires tubing from the main hoop behind you to the front windshield cross bar and down and if you are not wearing a helmet hitting roll bar tubing with your head could be deadly in a minor accident."

 

 

So would this not go for a 4 point cage as well? Seems like an accident would have your head snapping back into the bar behind the front seat and the rear seat passenger there would have no chance...or am I wrong?

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"I would highly recommend *against* a SCCA competetion legal (check the General Competition rules on the SCCA web site above) roll cage in a street car. It requires tubing from the main hoop behind you to the front windshield cross bar and down and if you are not wearing a helmet hitting roll bar tubing with your head could be deadly in a minor accident."

 

 

So would this not go for a 4 point cage as well? Seems like an accident would have your head snapping back into the bar behind the front seat and the rear seat passenger there would have no chance...or am I wrong?

 

Having the bar at/behind the B-pillar and tucked up nicely against the headliner it would be pretty hard to hit our bar. I'm 6'6" and have tried to maneuver myself into a position in which that could occur and haven't able to do it unless I..

 

A. Remove my seat belt

B. Unbolt the seat so it can come up from the floor

C. Sit in the back seat. (which in my car is not allowed) In fact, I'm actually removing the back seat and install a "Delete Kit" tomorrow.

 

Colin

Edited by GR40Freak
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Ya dont think the seat and your neck could flex back and hit it as it comes down behind the seat? Could you post a pic?

 

I am going to build a rollbar in one of my cars and I wondered about this for street use...seems sketchy to me.

 

Wearing either my factory seat belt or the racing harness, its just not possible and... my seat is all the way back.

 

And honestly if such an impact were to occur that caused your body to be removed from either set of belts, you'll probably have bigger problems.

 

Colin Sebern

Griggs Racing

Edited by GR40Freak
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Thanks a lot John for all the links man. Lots to sift through and lots of good options.

 

As for the Griggs bar, I love the look of it and am totally sold on it...except the price, which has been the same deterrent for any other roll bar I've looked at.

I just have a hard time spending that kind of dough on something that doesn't make my car go faster or handle better. Not that I don't understand the importance of the thing, it's just something I can't explain beyond that I guess. Anyway, now that the price is lower, I'm going to have a tough time passing it up. I'll talk to John about this and the seat I've had on order for awhile now. Thanks for the heads up dude.

 

Ken

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Colin may know, on older cars the bar adds stiffness to the chassis, maybe not on these cars...

Everything I've ever read about the S197 is that it was stiffened up a whole lot compared to the SN-95 anyway.

But I guess that's not a bad side effect to have either way, eh?

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I like the Griggs Racing roll bar, because it's not a NHRA focused roll bar. If I were you I would buy Griggs, not biased at all.

I have no question that the GR bar is the perfect solution.

However, I'd like to try to build my own, if for nothing less than to save some cash. Also, I think it might be fun to get one fitted up.

If that goes poorly, I'll just bite the bullet on the $900 piece from Griggs.

 

Ken

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I have no question that the GR bar is the perfect solution.

However, I'd like to try to build my own, if for nothing less than to save some cash. Also, I think it might be fun to get one fitted up.

If that goes poorly, I'll just bite the bullet on the $900 piece from Griggs.

 

Ken

 

Hey more power to you my man!

 

I can't wait to see the finished product!

 

:happy feet:

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hey ken if you decide to do a harness bar i would take one for sure as i plan on picking one up anyways.

If I build one, I'd just add the welded in cross beam like Griggs has for the harnesses to attach to. That way there's no need for a separate harness bar.

IMG_0488%20(Large).JPG

The more that I look at these roll bars, the more I want to just buy one, however. The problem isn't the bar itself, that's easy. It's how/where the bar attaches to the frame.

Some of these setups are pretty elaborate. Oh well, maybe Griggs has my name on one after all. I'll let ya know what I decide in the next day or 2.

 

Ken

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A great example of what a poorly designed roll bar will yield for protection... NONE!

 

The Griggs roll bar attaches to the bulkhead that front of the rear seat attaches to, it runs across the floor in between the B pillars and attaches to the frame rails.

 

According to the article below, the bar in the TulsaFX car was an Autopower piece.

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/featuredv..._number_12.html

 

Colin

Edited by GR40Freak
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