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Wheel Hop problems


motorhead213

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It's the squishy stock rubber bushings in the stock control arms that cause the wheelhop.

I cured mine by replacing the bushings with polyurethane ones.

 

 

This man speaks the truth. You can simply replace the bushings and be done with the bunny hop.

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Welcome to the site!!!

 

Bushings are your answer...for a quick simple fix to the wheel hop, but some harshen the ride more than I wanted, so

 

I changed springs (didn't like the back sitting up so high) put an adjustable panhard bar on (to recenter the rear end), and LCAs.

 

It rides way better than it did, traction is improved and looks like it's supposed to.

 

I'm not drag racing mine nor road tracking it. If you plan on doing either, you may want to look into a little beefier LCA and UCA.

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I only changed out to a set of H & R rear springs. Lower by 1-1/4, I have plenty of wheelspin but NO hop. My car runs mid 11's with stock tires. I wanted to keep the "Stock" ride character of the car, so went this route.

 

Welcome to the site!!!

 

Bushings are your answer...for a quick simple fix to the wheel hop, but some harshen the ride more than I wanted, so

 

I changed springs (didn't like the back sitting up so high) put an adjustable panhard bar on (to recenter the rear end), and LCAs.

 

It rides way better than it did, traction is improved and looks like it's supposed to.

 

I'm not drag racing mine nor road tracking it. If you plan on doing either, you may want to look into a little beefier LCA and UCA.

Did you guys have to get an adjustable UCA and pinion angle adjustment with the lowering springs?

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So how hard are the bushings to change and what tools are needed?Can you change just the rear springs,i haven't seen where you can buy just rear lowering springs.I'm not putting it on the track and would like the retain the best ride possible and get rid of the wheel hop.

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So how hard are the bushings to change and what tools are needed?Can you change just the rear springs,i haven't seen where you can buy just rear lowering springs.I'm not putting it on the track and would like the retain the best ride possible and get rid of the wheel hop.

I haven't done the springs but the bushings need 18 and 21mm sockets and wrenches, a torch to burn the old bushings out and a lift or a jack/jackstands to work under the car. It is easier to just buy new control arms with the good bushings in them already and just install them in place of the stock units. I have not noticed a significant change in ride characteristics with the poly bushings.

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So how hard are the bushings to change and what tools are needed?Can you change just the rear springs,i haven't seen where you can buy just rear lowering springs.I'm not putting it on the track and would like the retain the best ride possible and get rid of the wheel hop.

 

I bought the rear springs back in early 07 from H & R , at that time they were selling them separate .

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I did not install an UCA, or should have said haven't has of yet.

 

The Steeda springs did not require changing the UCA for normal street driving, but was suggested if I planned on drag racing or road tracking on a regular basis. If you go with a lower spring, I would definitely add a UCA, but not a beefier bracket.

 

A while back I do remember seeing where someone put in a extra heavy duty UCA bracket, and when it failed under hard launching, the bracket did not fail, the part of the body it was attached to did, and ripped a nice size whole in the bottom of car. I was told that the UCA was designed to be the weakest link, so it would fail first, instead of the mounting area of the vehicle. I'll go with that and replace it when needed.

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Similar mods here-changed out to J&M upper and lower control arms. Holy Crap, what difference! Easy out in 1st, hard into 2nd-this is where it hopped-with 3.73's ya gotta ease 1st, she just squats-chirps a little and goes. The ride is a wee bit tighter also! The tubular upper and LCA and combo of poly bushings-J&M set up use softer collars around the poly-nice, do transmit a little rear end mechanical noise-nothing that bothers me.

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What are you guys doing about the wheel hop problem on your GT500.Mine is a 08 with ford pro cal II and cold air and just put in 373's.It's pretty darn bad in 1st & 2nd.Any info is appreciated.

Ihave a extra set of H/R rear springs for gt500 I changed to ford racing all the way around the H/R took care of my wheele hop and ride like stock springs I like ride alot better with H/R than ford racing but I run razors 20 and car looked better lower all the way around will SALE H/R REARS FOR 120.00 PLUS SHIPPING like new cond. e mail michwrigh1@gmail.com

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Similar mods here-changed out to J&M upper and lower control arms. Holy Crap, what difference! Easy out in 1st, hard into 2nd-this is where it hopped-with 3.73's ya gotta ease 1st, she just squats-chirps a little and goes. The ride is a wee bit tighter also! The tubular upper and LCA and combo of poly bushings-J&M set up use softer collars around the poly-nice, do transmit a little rear end mechanical noise-nothing that bothers me.

Do you happen to have the part numbers for them. I looked on American Muscle, they show them but for 05-09 mustangs,but don't say if it's for GT500 or not.I didn't know if the GT500 had to be a stiffer bushing.Since your's worked so well and you seem to have the same set up i have, i thought i'd go with the J&M's.Thanks

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