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Front Brake Pads


Jesse_Bolt

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Has anyone tried the Hawk Ceramics?
I have, and the C-max are much better. One of the hawks pads develop a crack, and half of the pad fell out, Thats when a good friend told me about the C-max, and I had the same reservations like many on here, but the C-max made a believer out of me .Best advice I ever got.
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Did you only install the Cmax pads on the front brakes?

 

 

Yes, I only installed the fronts as a trial. Will likely replace the rears when next due. I don't have near the trouble with dust in the rears as I did up front. It is odd that there is now more dust out back than in the front....

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They did not fail but they got HOT!

 

And the brakes do fade when the system gets hot.

 

And that mushy pedal does not invite confidence.

 

 

So your brake fluid boiled before the pads failed? An over heated pad will feel like a hard pedal, more pressue just does not apply sufficient braking force. Soft pedal is fluid boiling. This indicates the pads held up until your brake system overheated. The pads do have a bit of effect on how much heat is transferred to the caliper vs the rotor but I have yet to see even a race pad that was particularly good at insulating the caliper. Constuction of the Cmax pads actually seemed better thermally than the Mintex as the Cmax have a multilayer polymer pad on the back of the pad plate that the Mintex do not.

 

Just trying to understand where the limits are as there are more than pads in the mix.

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Yes, I only installed the fronts as a trial. Will likely replace the rears when next due. I don't have near the trouble with dust in the rears as I did up front. It is odd that there is now more dust out back than in the front....

The Cmax rear pads have the "noise prevention" pad too. They are a nice improvement.

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This thread got my curiosity up. So I figured its only $54 to find out.

 

Rotors were HOT. DAMN HOT

 

i had to try these with all the hype. i 've had them on for about a month now. under normal dirving conditions the rotors were any where from 5*-20* hotter with the cmax pads. i havent checked any temps under hard braking yet.

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i had to try these with all the hype. i 've had them on for about a month now. under normal dirving conditions the rotors were any where from 5*-20* hotter with the cmax pads. i havent checked any temps under hard braking yet.

Did most of you re-use the factory shims when installing the Cmax brake pads? I know Luckysnake did, but what about everyone else? Did you apply any caliper grease on the back of the pads?

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Did most of you re-use the factory shims when installing the Cmax brake pads? I know Luckysnake did, but what about everyone else? Did you apply any caliper grease on the back of the pads?

 

 

The Cmax pads come with new anti-rattle spring clips and have anti squeel pads pre installed on the back of each pad. As the Brembo caliper has no moving slides, there is no caliper grease required.

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The Cmax pads come with new anti-rattle spring clips and have anti squeel pads pre installed on the back of each pad. As the Brembo caliper has no moving slides, there is no caliper grease required.

The Brembo pads have the anti squeel pads too, as you know. The shim is designed to to prevent early wear of the anti-squeel pad surface, I used the caliper grease between the anti-squeel pad and the stainless shim to also increase anti-squeel pad life. Not using the stainless shim isn't going to make any difference in performance, so either way you are good.

The rear pads could really benefit from the shim because of the "screwing" action of the caliper pistons. This action will wear the pads anti squeel pad.

Bottom line is it doesn't matter if the shim is used or not, other than a little extra wear protection of the ant-squeel pad, but the stock front pads use the shim and the Cmax are the same design, to me it makes sense to use them.

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This thread got my curiosity up. So I figured its only $54 to find out. I went down to the local AZ and got a set of the Cmax pads. Replaced the Mintex pads in less than a half hour. Bedded them in. I will admit while bedding them in I thought I had lost a good bit of braking performance and was going back to the Mintex pads. Now been driving the Cmax pads for several days and last night got the time to really push them. 100 to 0 four times in a row. Rotors were HOT. DAMN HOT like after a really good track session hot but the brakes never faded and the 4th stop was as smooth and quick as the first. If there is any difference in real world performace between these Cmax pads and the expensive Mintex ones, its so far outside my driving abiltiy as to be a waste of money. And this moning I looked at the front wheels (chrome by the way) still clean at about 400 miles since the pads went on. With the mintex pads they would have been completely black. The Cmax pads are quiet in traffic as well. In fairness, there may be a SLIGHT increase in pedal effort for the brakes but it is slight and modulation/control is excellent. Rotor wear is yet to be seen but pad wear is AZs problem as they are going to be providing pads for the life of this car. I just need to sell a few more sets for them. :-)

 

I'll hold on to the Mintex pads for open track days but unless I find something I have not seen yet, will be doubtful if I would change them out. I don't really know the composition of the AZ ceramic Cmax pads, but they work very well and dust FAR less than anything I have seen on these cars. Perhaps someone has finally found a ceramic compound that works? I was also impressed with the quality of construction and packaging of these pads.

 

I'm wondering if you used the Mintex pads for both street/track before buying the Cmax pads and how that worked out for you? I'm going to be swapping my pads out this winter and I'm trying to decided which way to go. I'll track my car (road course) a half dozen times a year tops, so my car primarily sees time on the street, but I only put about 2k miles on the car a year. My preference would be to just use one pad for both street and track, and have gotten feedback that the Mintex pad is a pad that would fit the bill. I wouldn't use the Cmax pads on the track, but I'm wondering now that you've used both if you think it's worthwhile to use two sets, one for each application, with the caveat that swapping pads is strongly not my preference. I have little time to prep the car for the track and the least amount of time spent doing that is best. Also, how much difference is there in brake dust between the Mintex and stock pads?

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I'm wondering if you used the Mintex pads for both street/track before buying the Cmax pads and how that worked out for you? I'm going to be swapping my pads out this winter and I'm trying to decided which way to go. I'll track my car (road course) a half dozen times a year tops, so my car primarily sees time on the street, but I only put about 2k miles on the car a year. My preference would be to just use one pad for both street and track, and have gotten feedback that the Mintex pad is a pad that would fit the bill. I wouldn't use the Cmax pads on the track, but I'm wondering now that you've used both if you think it's worthwhile to use two sets, one for each application, with the caveat that swapping pads is strongly not my preference. I have little time to prep the car for the track and the least amount of time spent doing that is best. Also, how much difference is there in brake dust between the Mintex and stock pads?

 

 

I used the mintex for both street (95%) and track (5%) use. Performed fine with the exception of dust and rotor wear. The mintex reduced the dust by about 20% or so. Still pretty bad dusting.

 

So far the Cmax pads are just as good on the street, 90% reduction in dust. Cannot answer on rotor wear yet. For track, dont really know but plan to try them next time I go. I'll have the Mintex with me just in case. Change out is less than 10 minutes including jacking the car....Well, when they are cool anyway.

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I used the mintex for both street (95%) and track (5%) use. Performed fine with the exception of dust and rotor wear. The mintex reduced the dust by about 20% or so. Still pretty bad dusting.

 

So far the Cmax pads are just as good on the street, 90% reduction in dust. Cannot answer on rotor wear yet. For track, dont really know but plan to try them next time I go. I'll have the Mintex with me just in case. Change out is less than 10 minutes including jacking the car....Well, when they are cool anyway.

 

Let us know how it goes with Cmax's on the track. Thanks for the response.

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Just installed the Duralast Cmax pads on front. Anyone notice the wear indicators are on the opposite side of the pad relative to the stock Brembo pads.

 

Here are the AZ pads. The beveled end is oriented downward on each side of the rotor.

 

IMG_4129.jpg

 

And here are the Brembo pads I removed; passenger's side on the left.

 

IMG_4143.jpg

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Just installed the Duralast Cmax pads on front. Anyone notice the wear indicators are on the opposite side of the pad relative to the stock Brembo pads.

 

Here are the AZ pads. The beveled end is oriented downward on each side of the rotor.

 

IMG_4129.jpg

 

And here are the Brembo pads I removed; passenger's side on the left.

 

IMG_4143.jpg

I noticed the indicators are placed differently and can't think of any reason it would make a difference.

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Any advice on how to reset the caliper piston on the rear brakes would be appreciated. I can turn the piston CW, but it does not move in, however, when I turn it CCW it does move out, but then it won't go back in (I do have the caliper tool). :headscratch:

 

Thanks in advance!

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Any advice on how to reset the caliper piston on the rear brakes would be appreciated. I can turn the piston CW, but it does not move in, however, when I turn it CCW it does move out, but then it won't go back in (I do have the caliper tool). :headscratch:

 

Thanks in advance!

 

You have to turn it in while maintaining pressure on the piston. That is what the tool is for, it presses the pistion in while allowing you to turn it.

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You have to turn it in while maintaining pressure on the piston. That is what the tool is for, it presses the pistion in while allowing you to turn it.

Thanks - I got it figured out ... just like you said ... you have to apply forward pressure while turning with the tool braced against the opposite side of the caliper. They were pretty hard to turn in, especially the driver's side.

 

IMG_4318.jpg

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The rear pads could really benefit from the shim because of the "screwing" action of the caliper pistons. This action will wear the pads anti squeel pad.

Bottom line is it doesn't matter if the shim is used or not, other than a little extra wear protection of the ant-squeel pad, but the stock front pads use the shim and the Cmax are the same design, to me it makes sense to use them.

After studying the rear brakes, I'm not convinced that there is a "screwing" action while in operation since the piston has a keyway that fits into a pin on the pad; should keep the piston from turning so I don't believe the piston actually turns while in-use. The shims on the stock read pads are permanently attached to the pad so I could not re-use them.

 

Ford did not apply any caliper grease on the rear pads and so I did the same. After thinking about it, I believe it would have been beneficial to apply some synthetic caliper grease on the back of the rear pads to prevent rust from developing on the piston since there was some forming on the piston already. I'll go back and apply the grease next time I have the wheels off.

 

Just my 2cents.

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After studying the rear brakes, I'm not convinced that there is a "screwing" action while in operation since the piston has a keyway that fits into a pin on the pad; should keep the piston from turning so I don't believe the piston actually turns while in-use. The shims on the stock read pads are permanently attached to the pad so I could not re-use them.

 

Ford did not apply any caliper grease on the rear pads and so I did the same. After thinking about it, I believe it would have been beneficial to apply some synthetic caliper grease on the back of the rear pads to prevent rust from developing on the piston since there was some forming on the piston already. I'll go back and apply the grease next time I have the wheels off.

 

Just my 2cents.

 

You are correct the piston does not turn while in use. Its the parking brake adjuster BEHIND the pistion that actually moves, or tries to each time the parking brake is applied. The turning in of the pistion when installing the rear pads is to reset this adjuster. There is use for a small dab of caliper grease where the caliper slides in its bracket. There are no outboard pistions on the rear so the caliper moves each time the brakes are applied. No need for this in the front with the 4 piston caliper.

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After studying the rear brakes, I'm not convinced that there is a "screwing" action while in operation since the piston has a keyway that fits into a pin on the pad; should keep the piston from turning so I don't believe the piston actually turns while in-use. The shims on the stock read pads are permanently attached to the pad so I could not re-use them.

 

Ford did not apply any caliper grease on the rear pads and so I did the same. After thinking about it, I believe it would have been beneficial to apply some synthetic caliper grease on the back of the rear pads to prevent rust from developing on the piston since there was some forming on the piston already. I'll go back and apply the grease next time I have the wheels off.

 

Just my 2cents.

I stand corrected, I thought it worked the same going out as when it is being compressed. Thx

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I really like these Duralast Gold Cmax brake pads ... my wheels are still clean and shiny. They would have been gray and dull by now with the stock pads. Can't tell any difference in braking performance under normal street driving, which is all I do.

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  • 1 year later...

The front calipers don't need to come off, simply take a small punch and knock the pins out, make sure you have them all the way back in way after the new pads are in. I don't think anyone's instructions say anything about reusing the factory stainless shims on the front pads, but it makes sense to use them, so I did. There was a copper looking material that looks to be an anti-chafing material between the shim and pad on the front brakes, I used a small amount of Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant to do the job.

The rear calipers have to come off and you need to use a brake caliper tool to "screw" the pistons back in before the new pads & caliper will fit over the rotor.

 

 

is there a write up on this with pics? every time ive done on non brembo cars you have to take the calipers off. thanks

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I used the mintex for both street (95%) and track (5%) use. Performed fine with the exception of dust and rotor wear. The mintex reduced the dust by about 20% or so. Still pretty bad dusting.

 

So far the Cmax pads are just as good on the street, 90% reduction in dust. Cannot answer on rotor wear yet. For track, dont really know but plan to try them next time I go. I'll have the Mintex with me just in case. Change out is less than 10 minutes including jacking the car....Well, when they are cool anyway.

 

 

Did you ever end up trying these at the track? How'd that go?

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is there a write up on this with pics? every time ive done on non brembo cars you have to take the calipers off. thanks

 

Front brakes are easy compared to the rears. Here's a write-up. I used the box end side of a combination wrench to gently reset each piston.

 

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-279/392589-shelby-front-brake-pad-removal-replacement.html

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  • 3 years later...

Are the Autozone Duralast Gold Cmax Brake Pads still considered a good street choice?

I like the idea of reducing brake dust and I don't track my car, not into that.

I occaisionally run my car at the local drag strip, but it has a long shut down area so there is no need to get hard on the brakes.

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