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Hood Scoop Repairs


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This is an update of some info posted by SGT2873 on Jan 12, 2009 on the Rivet Nut method of attaching a shelby hood scoop after removal.

 

Craig was right on when he said talk to Lori at Fastenal 803-356-4334, she knows what she is talking about and frequently gets calls. He posted the item description as Chrome Plated Dome Top W/Allen Head 8/32 x 3/4 size w/rivet nuts.

 

Lori thought it might be helpful to post the actual part number for our forum members:

 

Button Head is part number #0185299

 

Rivet Nut is part number #41596

 

The bolts were around $1 each and the rivets come in packages of 100. She said the average Shelby forum member orders from 25-30 of the bolts. I think it takes 25 to hold the hood down after counting Craig's pictures of his hood, I opted for the, it's possible to screw anything up and drop one or loose it or a failure and got five extra. UPS delivery to Texarkana, AR standard was not bad and next day was an additional $14.00.

 

Lori was a super person to deal with and gets calls from forum members all the time, thought I would share this hoping it will help someone get their hood attached quicker and make the information on ordering easier to, I was on and off the phone in less than 5 minutes because she knew what I was talking about and needed, and spoken to enough forum members, that she knew why we were using this method and two other fastener companies in my city didn't have a clue what I was trying to do.

 

Just my thoughts.......... GG

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This is an update of some info posted by SGT2873 on Jan 12, 2009 on the Rivet Nut method of attaching a shelby hood after removal.

 

Craig was right on when he said talk to Lori at Fastenal 803-356-4334, she knows what she is talking about and frequently gets calls. He posted the item description as Chrome Plated Dome Top W/Allen Head 8/32 x 3/4 size w/rivet nuts.

 

Lori thought it might be helpful to post the actual part number for our forum members:

 

Button Head is part number #0185299

 

Rivet Nut is part number #41596

 

The bolts were around $1 each and the rivets come in packages of 100. She said the average Shelby forum member orders from 25-30 of the bolts. I think it takes 25 to hold the hood down after counting Craig's pictures of his hood, I opted for the, it's possible to screw anything up and drop one or loose it or a failure and got five extra. UPS delivery to Texarkana, AR standard was not bad and next day was an additional $14.00.

 

Lori was a super person to deal with and gets calls from forum members all the time, thought I would share this hoping it will help someone get their hood attached quicker and make the information on ordering easier to, I was on and off the phone in less than 5 minutes because she knew what I was talking about and needed, and spoken to enough forum members, that she knew why we were using this method and two other fastener companies in my city didn't have a clue what I was trying to do.

 

Just my thoughts.......... GG

She is a great lady that knows her stuff. She spent a good amout of time in the parking lot w/ me the car and the replacement scoop as I explained to her exactly what I wanted. She even offered to let me use her friends rivet tool, but I went and bought one anyway. Craig

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Has anyone attempted to drill out their existing rivets and replace them with rivet nuts? Is this possible or even advisable?

Ilmor, sure it can be done, but care needs to be taken. The only way I would attempt would be to:

 

1. remove hood insulator

2. remove hood and place 4x8 plywood on saw horses with hood upside down and at least 4 pillows under the hood for protection.

3. using a small, sharp bit drill rivets from bottom side of hood. That way if you do slip, it's not as bad.

4. graduate up on the bit until rivet is out.

5. better yet, if you have an extra set of hands have them rest the hood on the back edge while you "carefully" drill the rivets. Let the sharp bit do the work w/ only mild pressure remembering this is an aluminum hood and you can cause warping if not careful. Did I mention using a good, sharp bit?

6. if you have air available, blow of alum shavings with air, do not use a towel, etc....

7. once removed you can then do rivet nut process that is already posted.

 

Hope that helps. Craig

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Ilmor, sure it can be done, but care needs to be taken. The only way I would attempt would be to:

 

1. remove hood insulator

2. remove hood and place 4x8 plywood on saw horses with hood upside down and at least 4 pillows under the hood for protection.

3. using a small, sharp bit drill rivets from bottom side of hood. That way if you do slip, it's not as bad.

4. graduate up on the bit until rivet is out.

5. better yet, if you have an extra set of hands have them rest the hood on the back edge while you "carefully" drill the rivets. Let the sharp bit do the work w/ only mild pressure remembering this is an aluminum hood and you can cause warping if not careful. Did I mention using a good, sharp bit?

6. if you have air available, blow of alum shavings with air, do not use a towel, etc....

7. once removed you can then do rivet nut process that is already posted.

 

Hope that helps. Craig

 

That does help - I was curious about how difficult or easy the job might be. This sounds like more than I have the time or patience to tackle for the time being! My rivets are fine and look good, but I like the idea of having rivet nuts. Thanks for the post!

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That does help - I was curious about how difficult or easy the job might be. This sounds like more than I have the time or patience to tackle for the time being! My rivets are fine and look good, but I like the idea of having rivet nuts. Thanks for the post!

 

 

Me too!

 

I might get some to store and when I have to have stripes replaced, or paint them on, I'll have the body shop do it.

 

I'd be the one guy to totally "F" it up and need a new hood.

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Me too!

 

I might get some to store and when I have to have stripes replaced, or paint them on, I'll have the body shop do it.

 

I'd be the one guy to totally "F" it up and need a new hood.

 

 

Hey I'm not doing this because I want to, the hood scoop is riveted on and is perfect fit, but it's got to be removed to be painted red and get new red stripes, I wish I didn't have to do this, but this is a SGT-BJ in the wrong color cloths right now, even if the dealer did it prior to delivery.

 

Yes I am worried about this whole deal, but it has got to be done, couldn't be any worse than installing and cutting a hole in my 05 GT for a CDC Shaker, using the same body shop.

 

I could have used just rivets to put it back on, but this procedure Craig posted on allows one to adjust the pressure to some degree, on two of my factory rivets, the paint has a tiny crack around them.

 

If there are any other suggestions out there, please let me know, I'm still learning from everyone, I just didn't want to tie my car up for weeks and decided it was quicker and easier to go it alone.

 

GG

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Me too!

 

I might get some to store and when I have to have stripes replaced, or paint them on, I'll have the body shop do it.

 

I'd be the one guy to totally "F" it up and need a new hood.

 

 

No, you wouldn't be the only one! :hysterical:

 

I also picture my wife ... "what the heck are you doing???"

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I understand everyone's concern about trying to fix one thing but ending up creating more problems! Before tackling the scoop myself, I had many anxious moments, but had several options in mind if I managed to mess things up!

 

Look at it this way: Say you drill a relatively small hole for a pop-rivet, then, OOPS, end up pulling it through the hood! That's not an issue, you just go to the rivnut, which uses a larger (1/4") hole. Then, for some reason, OOPS, you screw that up! That's also not a problem, because you can still use the old bolt, nut and washer! (you only see the head of the bolt, not what's underneath) The hood scoop can cover a lot of mistakes, just look under the original and you'll see what I mean!

 

I guess my point is that it's OK to worry, but also know you have at least three strikes before your out big bucks for a new hood!

 

I'm an idiot and I fixed it, so anyone can!

 

Sam

 

AKA:

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The hood scoop removal and striping removal started today, the hood scoop was removed by a really good body shop in Texarkana (Twin City Collision) without incident this afternoon. No issues removing the 25 rivets by drilling them out from top and bottom. So far so good. I was next to a Grabber Blue GT 2010 Vert, who had run over a possuem and was in for some body work also on passenger front bumper side, "ouch".

 

I have both a Shelby rivet replacement kit with instructions coming in from SAI and also a rivet nut kit order to be in this week. The body shop thinks the rivet nuts will work best. So I believe that is the way to go. Sand and prime the scoop, paint it back to Ford red as it left SAI apply 1 inch black stripe down the middle and then wait for stripes to be installed to put the scoop back on. Shop is going to go ahead and replace my new lanyards also when they reattach the scoop so I don't have to wait for the warranty approval process.

 

I'm hoping to be back to Barrett Jackson Red Stripes over black clearcoat by the end of the week provided "peter's principa"l doesn't kick in. Looking at three days sun drying stripes before putting scoop back on.

 

By the way we are going to pay it forward with Sam's rivet tool, when I am finished if you will pm me with your address I will send it to you postage paid. This is what Sam and I agreed to several posts back. I should also have enough rivets to give someone 30 free to do their hood if they choose to, don't have the dome bolts as they were a buck a piece, but will send 30 rivets also. The part #s for the dome bolts are in this post.

 

Fixing the scoop and stipes project should be completed in about 3 weeks when you add the order time for stripe kit and rivet nut kit and a borrowed rivet tool.

 

GG

 

 

I know this post is worthless without pictures, I actually have some that I will load after I get it completed.....

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GG

 

Hope all goes well!

 

The tool should arrive tomorrow if the USPS is on time!

 

I just got finished cutting out the hole in my hood, now the scoop is functional like it's supposed to be! (Well, at least functional as far as heat extraction goes!)

 

Holey.jpg

 

 

Oh, by the way, due to the way the tool is constructed, (tolerances seem to be off), you need to keep the mandrel nut slightly loose to allow the rivnut tool to move freely as shown here:

 

rivnuttool-1.jpg

 

Pay it forward!

 

Sam

 

AKA:

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"I'm hoping to be back to Barrett Jackson Red Stripes over black clearcoat by the end of the week provided "peter's principal" doesn't kick in. Looking at three days sun drying stripes before putting scoop back on."

 

Well do you remember the above paragraph, here is the latest scoop, if you will, yes it happened, during the stripe removal on the rear bumper some paint come off, so back to the body shop to pull the bumper spot repair a small area and reclear the bumper and put back on.

 

Sam your rivet tool made it today in the mail and also my rivet nuts and bolts kit from Lori made it also. I am ready also to make a decision on both attachment systems. I also sent a copy of the official SAI repair manual for using regular rivets on hoodscoop replacement to Jeffisheretoo, so he should be posting the six pages manual up shortly for our members.

 

I don't think the stripe shop was at fault on the stripe removal problem, the dealer installed after market silver stripes were cheap and hard to remove and broke or ripped everytime you pulled on them trying to get them off, about par for the course.

 

I think I'm looking at another week by the time I get the bumper repaired and also I found were the prior stripe installer had used a razor blade in the rear faux cap area too, remember the dealer installed stripes were 10 inches wide so I had a stripe line that will need to be buffed from front to rear also.

 

Good grief what a pain, the stripe shop told me a lot of people had been stopping by trying to figure out what was going on with the black SGT with silver stripes telling him 08s were suppose to be Vista Blue.

 

Will check in on Monday and let everyone know how its going on this project....... :banghead:

 

GG

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"Sam your rivet tool made it today in the mail and also my rivet nuts and bolts kit from Lori made it also."

 

I almost forgot, send me a pm if you want to borrow Sam's rivet tool when I am finished and I will pay it forward, thought I got 100 rivet nuts, but the packet only had 50 in it, so I won't be able to send 30 extras, I will pay the postage and ship it to you, provided you agree to pay it forward for the next member at Sam's request.

 

 

GG

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GOOD THINGS COME TO THOSE WHO WAIT. SO IN YOUR CASE GLENN ; I

 

GUESS REALLY GOOD THINGS WILL HAPPEN. BEST OF LUCK ON THE WORK

 

AHEAD AND I LOOK FORWARD TO CRUISING THE FOOT HILLS WITH

 

YOU AND THE B.J. AND SOME SWEET WINDING ROADS WITH ELEVATION

 

CHANGES.

 

SCOTTY

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10/09/2009 - The Latest

 

Well both the bumpers were repaired/repainted and the hood and trunk buffed this week, still raining in Arkansas. The body shop and I decided was a good idea to keep the car there over the weekend and let everything cure in a climate contolled shop.

 

They replaced my rusty lanyards and hood pins and I will pick up on Monday, then down the road to the stripe shop for red hood stripes and attaching the red Shelby scoop back after the hood stripes cure for three days. Body shop recommends about 10 days on the bumpers to let the paint cure before applying the rest of the BJ Stripe kit, anyone else have any thoughts or suggestions.

 

I also found a vendor for a replacement BJ rear faux emblem, MTMunlimited did a 3 inch lazer replacement emblem off some original artwork I had on it. Shelby was out of them. Hope to be driving down the road and enjoying my SGT-BJ soon. I can really understand what a pain it is on everyones car with the stripe issues, I was dreaming, thinking I could get my set off (it was the second set applied-no wonder the bumper paint came off) without any issues.

 

It sure did make my Shelby shine having the hood and trunk buffed after being in Phoenix, AZ for over a year, cleared up some very minor issues with the finish. I have pictures, waiting to get the red stripes on so I can show the before and after. Hopefully Scotty Cobra and I will do a road trip around Little Rock in the next few weeks.

 

I think somewhere one of our forum members had replaced their centersteering wheel tri-bar pony emblem and it looked good, but there was I recall, some minor air bag issues and the center emblem had to be removed to get a new one inserted. I asked Mike at MTM if he would consider a lazer cut emblem that the back allowed for a smooth fit with out removal. Maybe he will put something together, still hanging tight, the SGT-BJ is now out of the silver stripe package and in the stealth mode with 25 rivet holes in a U shape on the hood. Sam sent me his rivet tool, my rivet nuts and accessories are here so I will let everyone know how that goes also.

 

Edit scoop install went fine...

 

post-14593-1257304797_thumb.jpgpost-14593-1257304816_thumb.jpgpost-14593-1257304833_thumb.jpg

 

GG

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