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3rd REVISION - The new revised Clutch TSB 09-19-11


Grabber
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cutter,

 

Your 2008 has the revised tranny in it. So that means it has the revised inputshaft already. The 26 male splines are a tad wider and smoother too. If the syncros test out good, then you don't need them to break into your tranny. Just have the flywheel, clutch and pilot bearing replaced.

 

I hope all goes well.

 

Let us know how you make out.

 

 

Dealer is replacing the clutch only in the 08, but inspecting the output shaft for damage...sound fair to me....the 07 clutch is now smoother than butter....had to replace the replaced first gear syncro..never would admit what went wrong with the first one...

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Hi Grabber,

Thanks for the usual excellent job keeping members of this forum informed on the latest TSB. I've kept informed on the TSB woes of many on our site. Now for my dealership experience

I have an 07 GT500 produced late Sept 06. I only have 1150 miles and have had no problems with the clutch/transmission. I had an appointment scheduled today to reprogram the passenger side restraint (recall), so I read and took the latest TSB with me to my dealer. It was the first time my car has been back to a dealer. I met Paul, the senior master tech, and asked him if he was aware of the latest TSB and he said he was not but would pull it up and check it out. I watched him perform the transmission synchro test and he came over and said the tranny was ok but he would order the parts for the clutch/flywheel replacement under the TSB. I honestly didn't know whether to be elated or worried that it would be the start of my woes. I asked him if it needed this and his response was, "I'd do it before it screws the tranny." I think I agree with this since I can get the latest clutch/flywheel parts and not have to crack open the tranny. He also said he would put the KR shifter in while the tranny was out. I asked Paul if he had done a GT500 TSB and he said that there had not been any brought in with the problem, which I believe, as I have met several GT500 owners at local cruise ins and most don't even know that there is a TSB. I asked him if he has put in clutches, etc and he assured me that he has. I did a little checking with a friend in the dealer"s body shop and he said that Paul was good and he is the only one that works on SVT cars.

My question is, am I doing the right thing getting the clutch/flywheel replaced given that I have not had any problem? Should I go to another dealer with experience doing this?

 

Here's what he ordered for the repair:

7R3Z-6375-B Flywheel

7R3Z-7L596-A Clutch Kit

XG-8 PTFE Lubricant

XT-5-QM Fluid

F6ZZ-7600-A Sleeve

I figure they stock the sealant, grease, etc. Anything missing?

 

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks in advance!

Joe

 

 

 

 

TSB

09-19-11

SHELBY GT500 - CLUTCH DRAG - BUILT BEFORE 9/1/2008

 

This article supersedes TSB 9-9-2 to update the Service Procedure and Part List

 

ISSUE:

Some 2007-2009 Mustang Shelby GT500 vehicles built before 9/1/2008 may exhibit the following clutch/transmission symptoms: hard to disengage or engage 1st and reverse, hard to shift any gear, vehicle creeps with transmission in gear and clutch pedal fully depressed without brake pedal application. These symptoms may be caused by the clutch not disengaging fully when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. This may be due to flywheel distortion caused by excessive heat build-up during unique traffic conditions (example: severe stop/go urban driving, excessive clutch slipping). The clutch system is designed for performance driving conditions.

 

ACTION:

Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Located at the end of the procedure are Figures 1, 2 and 3 which show the typical appearance of a flywheel and clutch that has been damaged due to overheating of the clutch. Figures 4, 5 and 6 show the typical appearance of a good flywheel and clutch.

This procedure does not apply to or correct the normal characteristics of the twin-disc cera-metallic clutch used in the Shelby GT500 vehicle or normal wear. The twin disc cera-metallic clutch incorporates racing technology to combine a low inertia assembly with a very durable friction material with high torque capability. Depending on your driving technique, the smoothness of how the clutch reacts to clutch engagements may be different from other vehicles that use a single disc clutch system. Also refer to pages 8 and 9 of the GT500 Owner Guide Supplement for additional information.

Normal Operating Characteristics Of The Twin Disc Cera-metallic Clutch

Clutch chatter/shudder when engaging the clutch.

Narrow or abrupt engagement point.

Hiss upon clutch engagement or disengagement.

Transmission gear rollover noise at idle.

Gear rattle noise at very low speeds when in 1st or 2nd gear.

Normal wear.

 

Transmission Synchronizer Diagnosis Procedure

The following procedure is to be used to determine if the synchronizer assemblies in the transmission may have been damaged by attempting to operate the vehicle with a dragging clutch.

1. Set parking brake.

2. Transmission in neutral.

3. Start engine and allow it to idle.

4. Clutch engaged - pedal fully released.

5. Attempt to shift transmission into first gear by firmly pushing shift lever approximately 5-10 lbf (22-45 N) force for 2-3 seconds.

6. If the synchronizers are okay, the transmission will not make any clash or grinding noise. You will not be able to move the gearshift lever into the selected gear (the synchronizer will block out gear engagement) and the engine RPM will decrease slightly.

7. Repeat the synchronizer test (Step 5 and 6) on all of the other forward gears.

a. If the transmission passes the synchronizer test, the transmission will not require additional service; proceed with clutch/flywheel replacement only. Refer to Clutch Replacement procedure.

b. If clash/grinding noise is found when performing the synchronizer diagnostic, the transmission will need to be repaired along with the replacement of the clutch. Refer to Transmission Repair procedure.

Clutch Replacement

1. Remove the transmission per Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 308-03C.

2. Remove and replace flywheel per WSM, Section 303-01C. Discard old bolts and use bolts provided in flywheel kit.

3. Install new pilot bearing per WSM, Section 308-01.

4. Install new clutch disc and plate assembly per WSM, Section 308-01 (vehicles with solid design flywheel). Discard old bolts and use bolts provided in clutch kit. Tighten bolts to 89 lb-in (10 N-m) in a star pattern. Tighten an additional 90 degrees in a star pattern.

5. Apply a small amount of Motorcraft® PTFE Lubricant to the clutch hub splines per WSM, Section 308-01.

6. Install the transmission per WSM, Section 308-03C.

Transmission Repair

1. Remove, drain, disassemble and clean the transmission per WSM, Section 308-03C.

2. Remove and replace input shaft and all synchronizer assemblies per WSM, Section 308-03C.

3. Assemble the transmission per WSM, Section 308-03C.

4. Install the transmission per WSM, Section 308-03C

 

PART NUMBER PART NAME

7R3Z-6375-B Flywheel Kit (Includes Bolts)

7R3Z-7L596-A Clutch Kit (Includes Bolts)

7R3Z-7C391-B Transmission Kit

XG-8 Motorcraft® PTFE Lubricant

XT-5-QM Motorcraft® MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid

PM-1-C Motorcraft® High Performance DOT 3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid

XG-1-C Motorcraft® Premium Long-Life Grease

TA-30 Motorcraft® Silicone Gasket and Sealant

TA-25 Motorcraft® Threadlock and Sealer

F6ZZ-7600-A Pilot Bearing

1R3Z-7052-AA Transmission Input Shaft Oil Seal

 

WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

091911A 2007-2009 Mustang GT500: Replace The Clutch Disc And Plate Assembly; Pilot Bearing And Flywheel. Includes Time To Remove And Install Transmission, Perform The Synchronizer Diagnosis (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 3.9 Hrs.

091911B 2007-2009 Mustang GT500: Replace The Input Shaft; Synchronizer Assemblies, Clutch Disc And Plate Assembly; Pilot Bearing And Flywheel. Includes Time To Remove And Install Transmission, Perform The Synchronizer Diagnosis (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 7.4 Hrs.

 

DEALER CODING

BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE

6375 69

 

 

NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.

Copyright © 2009 Ford Motor Company

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Joe,

 

You are doing the right thing getting the new clutch and flywheel put in. I'm glad your dealership is taking care of you. The clutch and flywheel is a very basic installation and your Master Tech will not have any problems doing it. Doing the pilot bearing and putting the teflon lube on the tranny splines and clutch hub spines is very importand. Ask the tech to clean off the tranny input shaft very good before he puts the teflon lube on it. ask him to clean it with some emry cloth and a fine wire brush.

 

The only tricky thing is taking the tranny out and putting it back in. It's a very tight fit and has to be rotated a bit to get it out.

 

This thread of mine will show you all the steps that is required to pull the tranny and install the clutch and flywheel. I suggest you study it and watch the videos that I took of my Master Tech doing the work. You can then give some of the key pointers to your tech since he has not done a GT500 before.

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...st&p=296513

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Start the car.

 

Leave your foot off the clutch pedal. (it's engaged)

 

Then do the test by trying to put pressure on the syncros.

 

Follow the directions in the TSB when doing this. (Don't push too hard and launch the car into your garage by putting it in gear)

 

I'd perform it in a parking lot or large field. I can see a lot of air conditioned garages with this one. It would be tough to get the exact torque push that they ask for.

 

Great info Grabber.

Edited by mullens
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Rob, I want to look at a 2009. What's the magical build date? Is it after September 1, 2008 ??

 

I thought we had it narrowed down to August 26, 2008. What date is it?

 

The date that we narrowed down waqs 8/19/08.

 

here's the thread report out.

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...st&p=559998

Edited by Grabber
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Grabber, you da man!

:rockon:

 

Almost reads like if I could catch it at the very beginning of clutch problems, before it's effected the tranny at all, that a nice, safe, clutch and pressure plate replacement could nail it and it might never be back.

 

Gonna have to re-read this puppy lots and pay close attention to try to catch it at JUST the right time.

 

It's really the only concern I have on these. I mean it would be expensive for Ford, and now is not the best tiime, but seems if the there was a recall on the clutch and flywheel as an on-demand recall, that could end up breaking even in the long run, not to mention the postive PR for Ford it would generate. I would "think" replacing just the clutch and flywheel would have less chance of someone F-ing it up too.

:soapbox:

 

OK. I'll get off the soapbox now.

 

Oh, have I mentioned I LOVE THIS CAR?! :happy feet:

Edited by skiph
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Rob, my local dealer said they would pull apart and look at mine, but could not guarrantee that I would not have to pay, anyone know of a local dealer in western PA or just over the boarder in OH, or W.VA that is more confident with this issue? This dealer said they did one but Ford would not pay since it was clutch issue only which is 12mo 12k mi. so customer payed. :banghead: I called Randy Fry (thanks Randy) his dealership has done 5 already and said to tell them to start with the flywheel, I told them that and they said, if it has hot spots on it it is clutch and I would have to pay. I would take it to Randy, but he is 1400K mi away...

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Rob, my local dealer said they would pull apart and look at mine, but could not guarrantee that I would not have to pay, anyone know of a local dealer in western PA or just over the boarder in OH, or W.VA that is more confident with this issue? This dealer said they did one but Ford would not pay since it was clutch issue only which is 12mo 12k mi. so customer payed. :banghead: I called Randy Fry (thanks Randy) his dealership has done 5 already and said to tell them to start with the flywheel, I told them that and they said, if it has hot spots on it it is clutch and I would have to pay. I would take it to Randy, but he is 1400K mi away...

 

The old nodular iron flywheel does not dissapate heat very well at all. So it's going to have hot spots on it. That is why Ford changed the flywheel design ot a new one. It's made out of 4100 series steel and the section hub area is much thicker so it will not heat up and warp.

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I finally had my clutch replaced, after Bill told me at the 2008 Dearborn event that it was the worst he has heard

A few things i have noticed is a softer clutch feel, no grabbing, hissing is reduced and still shifts and holds as good as ever

here is a few pics of the old and new

old Flywheel & Clutch

DSC00815.JPG

OLD_CLUTCH1.JPG

New Clutch

NEW_CLUTCH1.JPG

Old Spindle, lots of rust

OLD_SPINDLE1.JPG

NEW_CLUTCH1.JPG

NEW_CLUTCH1.JPG

DSC00815.JPG

NEW_CLUTCH1.JPG

OLD_CLUTCH1.JPG

OLD_SPINDLE1.JPG

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My Shelby is in the shop today. :cry:

Started clunking in 2nd and 3rd gear when cold. :shift:

13,218 Kl m's on it.

They are doing TSB #091911B . :lurk:

SVT tech is assisting. He wanted the transmission guy to do the transmission work. I am told he is very experienced at transmissions.

I told them to take their time, no rush. I want it done correctly. :happy feet:

They had me drive it into their garage last night as the SVT tech (Tony) was not in.

The dealership only lets the SVT tech or the owner drive the Shelby's. Even the sales people are not allowed to drive the Shelbys. They really appreciate the power these cars have.

He told me when they finish they want me to test drive it with the technician. :shift:

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Ken,

 

When are you getting your car back?

I am hoping for today. They have had it on the lift for two days now, going on three.

They said they were thoroughly inspecting the transmission.

I will post the results after I get my Shelby back. :shift:

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I had my clutch/flywheel replaced on Tues and it's great. No argument from the dealer and they installed the KR shifter Rained the past two days so I haven't driven it that much but it's much smoother...no chatter. Fortunately, I did not have tranny issues when the latest TSB test was performed. Glad there are some dealers willing to do the right thing.

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I've got my eye on a 2009 w/ 900 miles on it. It's had the TSB and the dealer showed me the paperwork with the 3 part numbers. I guess I would do the syncros test in the TSB to confirm the tranny is ok? Dealer says the guy traded the gt500 in for a KR and they showed me that paperwork too. And they offered to let me talk to the customer. So it seems pretty good but I have these questions:

 

I know changing the clutch is straightforward on a lift, but what can I test to know they did it right?

Any other suggestions for testing besides the syncros in the tsb?

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finally got my car back from the dealer , it seems to drive so much different. no more shutter, just takes right off.. pedal has much better feel to it also. 1st to 2nd shift is great ,, just goes in gear , no more feeling of it not going in gear all the way :happy feet: :drool:

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Picked up my Alloy Shelby GT500 Convertible.

At first I thought the clutch pedal had too much play. Pedal went in a couple inches before making contact.

After driving it a few k's it seemed to adjust itself. The hiss is gone, no clunk in second gear.

I have attached the parts list showing Canadian list and dealer cost for the parts they used.

 

 

 

It is in storage now for the winter so I'll have to wait untill spring to further test. :cry:

I got absolutely zero hassle from the dealership. What a nice change from all the complaints I hear and read from other dealerships.

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Picked up my Alloy Shelby GT500 Convertible.

At first I thought the clutch pedal had too much play. Pedal went in a couple inches before making contact.

After driving it a few k's it seemed to adjust itself. The hiss is gone, no clunk in second gear.

I have attached the parts list showing Canadian list and dealer cost for the parts they used.

 

 

 

It is in storage now for the winter so I'll have to wait untill spring to further test. :cry:

I got absolutely zero hassle from the dealership. What a nice change from all the complaints I hear and read from other dealerships.

 

Ken,

 

I'm glad they took care of you. Next Spring you will be ready to ride. :shift: I got mine out yesterday for 100 miles of fun. :happy feet: I had not been in it for 3 weeks. We had a great sunny day here yesterday....but those days are now numbered. Mine will get put up very soon too! :cry:

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  • 1 month later...

I am curious to know how long my original set up would have lasted.

 

I find it very odd that my car is much worse now after the TSB

 

Really makes me think its still not the clutch, but the dam retarded Ford techs

 

I appologize and dont mean to insult but how is it that many out there with the TSB done have no issues and then many people like me with many

 

 

experienced sudden total clutch failure @ 20k miles after hard launch in estill south carolina. have performance tune, borla after cat exhaust, and steeda cai on my 07 gt 500. local ford dealership replaced flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate under tsb without a moment's hesistation... however, miss the old clutch. doesn't scratch as easily, soft engagement, not as crisp. hate to change out new clutch. has anyone had similar experience?

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Still haven't gotten mine done. Drives fine and haven't noticed any issues with it. Trying to avoid having the dealer tear into it. :angry22:

 

 

I'm in the same boat as you. Mines a May 08 build. I'm not taking a chance that the mechanics will create a problem when I don't have one to begin with. 10K miles and still feels like new. I'll hit the 5 years before the 50K miles and by then I should know where I stand. Worst case scenario, I'll work out a deal on a trade for a leftover 2011 (or 2012 or 2013). In the meanwhile, I'm not going to let it ruin the experience of owning this cool car.

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