Jump to content
TEAM SHELBY FORUM

3rd REVISION - The new revised Clutch TSB 09-19-11


Grabber
 Share

Recommended Posts

TSB

09-19-11

SHELBY GT500 - CLUTCH DRAG - BUILT BEFORE 9/1/2008

 

This article supersedes TSB 9-9-2 to update the Service Procedure and Part List

 

ISSUE:

Some 2007-2009 Mustang Shelby GT500 vehicles built before 9/1/2008 may exhibit the following clutch/transmission symptoms: hard to disengage or engage 1st and reverse, hard to shift any gear, vehicle creeps with transmission in gear and clutch pedal fully depressed without brake pedal application. These symptoms may be caused by the clutch not disengaging fully when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. This may be due to flywheel distortion caused by excessive heat build-up during unique traffic conditions (example: severe stop/go urban driving, excessive clutch slipping). The clutch system is designed for performance driving conditions.

 

ACTION:

Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Located at the end of the procedure are Figures 1, 2 and 3 which show the typical appearance of a flywheel and clutch that has been damaged due to overheating of the clutch. Figures 4, 5 and 6 show the typical appearance of a good flywheel and clutch.

This procedure does not apply to or correct the normal characteristics of the twin-disc cera-metallic clutch used in the Shelby GT500 vehicle or normal wear. The twin disc cera-metallic clutch incorporates racing technology to combine a low inertia assembly with a very durable friction material with high torque capability. Depending on your driving technique, the smoothness of how the clutch reacts to clutch engagements may be different from other vehicles that use a single disc clutch system. Also refer to pages 8 and 9 of the GT500 Owner Guide Supplement for additional information.

Normal Operating Characteristics Of The Twin Disc Cera-metallic Clutch

Clutch chatter/shudder when engaging the clutch.

Narrow or abrupt engagement point.

Hiss upon clutch engagement or disengagement.

Transmission gear rollover noise at idle.

Gear rattle noise at very low speeds when in 1st or 2nd gear.

Normal wear.

 

Transmission Synchronizer Diagnosis Procedure

The following procedure is to be used to determine if the synchronizer assemblies in the transmission may have been damaged by attempting to operate the vehicle with a dragging clutch.

1. Set parking brake.

2. Transmission in neutral.

3. Start engine and allow it to idle.

4. Clutch engaged - pedal fully released.

5. Attempt to shift transmission into first gear by firmly pushing shift lever approximately 5-10 lbf (22-45 N) force for 2-3 seconds.

6. If the synchronizers are okay, the transmission will not make any clash or grinding noise. You will not be able to move the gearshift lever into the selected gear (the synchronizer will block out gear engagement) and the engine RPM will decrease slightly.

7. Repeat the synchronizer test (Step 5 and 6) on all of the other forward gears.

a. If the transmission passes the synchronizer test, the transmission will not require additional service; proceed with clutch/flywheel replacement only. Refer to Clutch Replacement procedure.

b. If clash/grinding noise is found when performing the synchronizer diagnostic, the transmission will need to be repaired along with the replacement of the clutch. Refer to Transmission Repair procedure.

Clutch Replacement

1. Remove the transmission per Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 308-03C.

2. Remove and replace flywheel per WSM, Section 303-01C. Discard old bolts and use bolts provided in flywheel kit.

3. Install new pilot bearing per WSM, Section 308-01.

4. Install new clutch disc and plate assembly per WSM, Section 308-01 (vehicles with solid design flywheel). Discard old bolts and use bolts provided in clutch kit. Tighten bolts to 89 lb-in (10 N-m) in a star pattern. Tighten an additional 90 degrees in a star pattern.

5. Apply a small amount of Motorcraft® PTFE Lubricant to the clutch hub splines per WSM, Section 308-01.

6. Install the transmission per WSM, Section 308-03C.

Transmission Repair

1. Remove, drain, disassemble and clean the transmission per WSM, Section 308-03C.

2. Remove and replace input shaft and all synchronizer assemblies per WSM, Section 308-03C.

3. Assemble the transmission per WSM, Section 308-03C.

4. Install the transmission per WSM, Section 308-03C

 

PART NUMBER PART NAME

7R3Z-6375-B Flywheel Kit (Includes Bolts)

7R3Z-7L596-A Clutch Kit (Includes Bolts)

7R3Z-7C391-B Transmission Kit

XG-8 Motorcraft® PTFE Lubricant

XT-5-QM Motorcraft® MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid

PM-1-C Motorcraft® High Performance DOT 3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid

XG-1-C Motorcraft® Premium Long-Life Grease

TA-30 Motorcraft® Silicone Gasket and Sealant

TA-25 Motorcraft® Threadlock and Sealer

F6ZZ-7600-A Pilot Bearing

1R3Z-7052-AA Transmission Input Shaft Oil Seal

 

WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

091911A 2007-2009 Mustang GT500: Replace The Clutch Disc And Plate Assembly; Pilot Bearing And Flywheel. Includes Time To Remove And Install Transmission, Perform The Synchronizer Diagnosis (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 3.9 Hrs.

091911B 2007-2009 Mustang GT500: Replace The Input Shaft; Synchronizer Assemblies, Clutch Disc And Plate Assembly; Pilot Bearing And Flywheel. Includes Time To Remove And Install Transmission, Perform The Synchronizer Diagnosis (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 7.4 Hrs.

 

DEALER CODING

BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE

6375 69

 

 

NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.

Copyright © 2009 Ford Motor Company

 

Revised Feb 15th 2010:

 

New TSB has superceded this one. See this thread:

This TSB is now out of date and has been replaced with TSB 10-3-8

http://www.teamshelb...__fromsearch__1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may be asking - What are the differences?

 

Well, they are telling the dealer how to test the syncros to see if they are bad. If they are not bad...then they leave the tranny alone and just do the flywheel and the clutch and pilot bearing.

 

Transmission Synchronizer Diagnosis Procedure

The following procedure is to be used to determine if the synchronizer assemblies in the transmission may have been damaged by attempting to operate the vehicle with a dragging clutch.

1. Set parking brake.

2. Transmission in neutral.

3. Start engine and allow it to idle.

4. Clutch engaged - pedal fully released.

5. Attempt to shift transmission into first gear by firmly pushing shift lever approximately 5-10 lbf (22-45 N) force for 2-3 seconds.

6. If the synchronizers are okay, the transmission will not make any clash or grinding noise. You will not be able to move the gearshift lever into the selected gear (the synchronizer will block out gear engagement) and the engine RPM will decrease slightly.

7. Repeat the synchronizer test (Step 5 and 6) on all of the other forward gears.

a. If the transmission passes the synchronizer test, the transmission will not require additional service; proceed with clutch/flywheel replacement only. Refer to Clutch Replacement procedure.

b. If clash/grinding noise is found when performing the synchronizer diagnostic, the transmission will need to be repaired along with the replacement of the clutch. Refer to Transmission Repair procedure.

Edited by Grabber
Link to comment
Share on other sites

clutch engaged, fully released

 

What does that mean?

 

I want to perform this test myself

 

Start the car.

 

Leave your foot off the clutch pedal. (it's engaged)

 

Then do the test by trying to put pressure on the syncros.

 

Follow the directions in the TSB when doing this. (Don't push too hard and launch the car into your garage by putting it in gear)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have no idea how long these tests for a bad clutch- flywheel - syncros will go on but it is getting close to the point where ford must be wondering why someone in engineering picked this system. Grabber works hard to keep us up to date on all the clutch issues and I thank him for that- who I do not thank is the engineer who designed this lousy system- most ruining of syncros are the result of the poor clutch- in the meantime keep up to date on the aftermarket clutch systems and if you can sock a few bucks- I guess quite a few- aside and pick another clutch for your car- Ford has been generous but are they admitting a mistake or standing behind a poor design or both. I know that this is negative thinking but the future for the early gt 500s under the headline clutch will be what aftermarket clutch do I use. When a stock clutch goes out you have to ask yourself was it me or the desgin- ford - Iwould guess- wondered where the problems would arirse when they put five hundred ponies behind our cars- it could be worse as the rest of the drivetrain seems to take the hard hits. That left peddle always leaves me in a worry- My ford tech. and I know each other by first and last name and that may or may not be so good. Thank all of you for posting your results on aftermarket clutches for our car as you are the true pioneirs for our clutchl issues and it is out of pocket expense for you all. I believe going to ford for a free tsb or related issue is just buying time not curing the problem. I wish grabber had more time to look into aftermarket clutches but that might solve the problem and start poor grabber on trying to defend one ovet the other- his staying in a neutral corner and providing valueable information is the best spot he could pick. thanks grabber-

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am curious to know how long my original set up would have lasted.

 

I find it very odd that my car is much worse now after the TSB

 

Really makes me think its still not the clutch, but the dam retarded Ford techs

 

I appologize and dont mean to insult but how is it that many out there with the TSB done have no issues and then many people like me with many

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Start the car.

 

Leave your foot off the clutch pedal. (it's engaged)

 

Then do the test by trying to put pressure on the syncros.

 

Follow the directions in the TSB when doing this. (Don't push too hard and launch the car into your garage by putting it in gear)

 

I suggest doing this test in a empty parking lot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the pilot bearing has been added as a replacement as well, is that right Rob? I don't remember that being a part of the TSB when they replaced mine...

 

Glad they put that in there.

 

The Pilot bearing was in the Rev. 2 TSB.

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...st&p=697699

 

The photos are in that linky too. They did not change those.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am curious to know how long my original set up would have lasted.

 

I find it very odd that my car is much worse now after the TSB

 

Really makes me think its still not the clutch, but the dam retarded Ford techs

 

I appologize and dont mean to insult but how is it that many out there with the TSB done have no issues and then many people like me with many

 

 

I just got the call that mine is done....but it grinds alittle going into first....WTF..this is from the tech guy,,,I haven't even driven it yet....

 

Got another call today...Ford Rep. tested it and said tear it back down......

Edited by cutter
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just got the call that mine is done....but it grinds alittle going into first....WTF..this is from the tech guy,,,I haven't even driven it yet....

 

Got another call today...Ford Rep. tested it and said tear it back down......

 

Are they doing the tranny syncro and input shaft replacement on yours too?

 

Cutter, I hope they get it right this time.

 

Do you still have both your 500's ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are they doing the tranny syncro and input shaft replacement on yours too?

 

Cutter, I hope they get it right this time.

 

Do you still have both your 500's ?

 

 

Yes...I picked up the vert today and its perfect, pedal is easy to push and don't have to slip the clutch anymore to engage, dropped off the 08 and they are balking about replacing it, I guess ford is not wanting to replace the clutch, flywheel but stay out of the tranny is possible...will know more in a few days, care only has 2200 miles on it...but the vert only has 5200...I seen the bill, ford only pays alittle over 600.00 for all the labor.....parts cost around 5K...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes...I picked up the vert today and its perfect, pedal is easy to push and don't have to slip the clutch anymore to engage, dropped off the 08 and they are balking about replacing it, I guess ford is not wanting to replace the clutch, flywheel but stay out of the tranny is possible...will know more in a few days, care only has 2200 miles on it...but the vert only has 5200...I seen the bill, ford only pays alittle over 600.00 for all the labor.....parts cost around 5K...

 

cutter,

 

Your 2008 has the revised tranny in it. So that means it has the revised inputshaft already. The 26 male splines are a tad wider and smoother too. If the syncros test out good, then you don't need them to break into your tranny. Just have the flywheel, clutch and pilot bearing replaced.

 

I hope all goes well.

 

Let us know how you make out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...
...