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If you remove the tire pressure sensors, will the warning light always be on???


kharper

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Hi,

If you remove the tire pressure sensors, will the warning light always be on... or will the computer know they do not exist and simply ignore that they are missing.

 

 

I have new rims and tires on the GT500 but for the life of me can not get them from sending vibrations into the steering wheel. The Are balanced but have a lot of weight on the opposite side of the TPM's. So I am wondering if I am better off to remove them to improve the chance of it not being the problem.

 

Cheer.s

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Yes they will remain on.

 

What kind of wheels did you get? Are made by American Racing or Shelby Wheels? If so you should invest about $15 in some hubcentric rings and see if that fixes it.

 

It did on my Razors.

 

Hope this helps.

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Yes they will remain on.

 

Not necessarily. My drag radials are mounted on wheels without any sensors. I only use these when driving to and from the track, about five miles one way. To my surprise, my TPMS warning indicator has never triggered.

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In my case, the light / message came on, but then went off when I pushed the reset button. It would come on again each time the car was started.

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TexasShelby, They are the Stack Racing GT4 rims. http://www.americanmuscle.com/18x9-gt4-hypercoated-2005.html

 

The rims are the exact size to fit the hub lip (about 1/4 of a mm bigger) so there is no need of a hubcentric ring in my case as they are made the exact size :).

 

 

 

The strange this is when I seen them balance the tires.... while spinning the tire, the rim appeared to be 100% true (turned in a perfect circle) but the tire rubber itself seemed to move up and down about 1/4-1/2 inch. What are the chances the the rubber itself is not a true circle? Looking at the bead around the tire, they appear to be mounted correct.

 

The tires were Bran new Nitto NT05's

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Yes they will remain on.

 

Not necessarily. My drag radials are mounted on wheels without any sensors. I only use these when driving to and from the track, about five miles one way. To my surprise, my TPMS warning indicator has never triggered.

 

This is the exact same thing for me and why I asked. If I throw my DR's on the back and go to the track I do not get the TPS light. But I wanted to check before I went through the trouble of removing the TPS from all 4 rims.

 

Maybe 2 missing in the rear was not enough to trigger the computer for some reason.

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Could someone 'splain hubcentric rings and what they do?

 

 

The hub that sticks out on your axle has a size of X mm in diameter. The center bore on the back of your rim that slide over that hub has a size of Y mm.

 

Most times X is a few mm smaller then Y. Due to this slack the tire can be bolted on a little off center.

 

What a hub centric ring does if fits over the top of the hub X, to make it the same size of the center bore Y on your rim.

 

This will ensure that when you slide the rim onto your car, it will be perfectly centered.

 

Hope that made sense.

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TexasShelby, They are the Stack Racing GT4 rims. http://www.americanmuscle.com/18x9-gt4-hypercoated-2005.html

 

The rims are the exact size to fit the hub lip (about 1/4 of a mm bigger) so there is no need of a hubcentric ring in my case as they are made the exact size :).

 

 

 

The strange this is when I seen them balance the tires.... while spinning the tire, the rim appeared to be 100% true (turned in a perfect circle) but the tire rubber itself seemed to move up and down about 1/4-1/2 inch. What are the chances the the rubber itself is not a true circle? Looking at the bead around the tire, they appear to be mounted correct.

 

The tires were Bran new Nitto NT05

 

I fitted a new set of 20 inch Alcoas and purchased a set of TPMS Sensor Kit from American Muscle ($125 i think from memory) for these wheels and that fixed the sensor issue. I left the old sensors on the old rims in case I need to fit them again some time in the future.

KiwiSnake

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The tires were Bran new Nitto NT05

 

I fitted a new set of 20 inch Alcoas and purchased a set of TPMS Sensor Kit from American Muscle ($125 i think from memory) for these wheels and that fixed the sensor issue. I left the old sensors on the old rims in case I need to fit them again some time in the future.

KiwiSnake

 

 

How do u like those NT05's? What the handle and hook like on them and how r they holding up?

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There are a lot of things to check. Here are some: Did they mount the sensors 180 degrees from the tire valve? What kind of tire valve do you have (metal,rubber)? Did they road force balance the tires? What kind of weights did they use (stick on, clip on rim edge)?

 

 

Hi Moabman,

 

They did mount the sensor 180 degrees from the stem.

Rubber valve stem with a chrome cover.

No road force, only dynamic (closest Road force machine is 200 miles away)

They used stick on weights.

 

Does road force balancing make a big difference? Would it be worth the 2 hour drive to have it done?

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The tires were Bran new Nitto NT05

 

I fitted a new set of 20 inch Alcoas and purchased a set of TPMS Sensor Kit from American Muscle ($125 i think from memory) for these wheels and that fixed the sensor issue. I left the old sensors on the old rims in case I need to fit them again some time in the future.

KiwiSnake

 

 

How do u like those NT05's? What the handle and hook like on them and how r they holding up?

 

I can not be totally honest if I know.... I installed a Stage 3 kenne bell at the same time I installed the new tires. The NT05 'seem' greasy but at the same time it is not fiar as the car has more HP as well. One of these days I will throw the stock rims on to get a true comparison for the NT05's.

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Just an update in case other have the same problem.

 

Sure enough it was the small retainer clips on the studs that was causing the vibrations in the steering wheel.

 

Car drives smooth as silk at all speeds now.

 

Who would of thought a couple or unneeded 1 mm clips would cause so much vibration.

 

Thanks everyone for the info.

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Hi Moabman,

 

They did mount the sensor 180 degrees from the stem.

Rubber valve stem with a chrome cover.

No road force, only dynamic (closest Road force machine is 200 miles away)

They used stick on weights.

 

Does road force balancing make a big difference? Would it be worth the 2 hour drive to have it done?

 

It does make a difference but more on high profile tires that deform a little more under load. If you have problems getting that last little vibration out at certain harmonic speeds, they make stick on weights that are shot filled and dynamically balance the tire.

 

Sounds like you don't need it though - congrats!

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