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My car is not boosting!


nexxone_05

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Ok so yesterday me and a couple of my Mustang pals deside to take a cruise up to Ortega Highway. We fuel up the Stangs and we are on our way. Everything is good the whole way through the cayon and we end up in Newport. We stop grab a bite and enjoy the cool breeze of the beach. After a while we decide to head back. So on our way back we start playing around with the Stangs. Im crusing at about 60mph on 6th when I decide to awake the beast. So I drop it to third and floor it. My boost gage maybe moves up to 1lb then completely shuts off and my RPMS just keep going, but my car doesnt pick up any speed and I don't hear the charger whinnig up. So i try it again and it does the same thing. Then I move to the slow lane drop it to second and it does the same. I tried boosting it in every gear and it will not boost. It's like when your on nuetral and your reving your engine your RPMS go up except im on gear and it's doing the same. Any ideas on what this can be? :cry:

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If the RPM's climb and your moving any faster, then as stated by others, your clutch, unfortunately, is toasted.

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Warranty should cover this right?

It damn well better. Don't take ANY push back from the dealer. Don't believe any lie about "normal wear", and if they don't want to help you, then I would either threaten to take them into Ford's arbitration program (info is in the back of your owners manual), or I would just bring your car up to Galpin Ford and see Nelson Buss. Galpin and Nelson will resolve your clutch under the TSB without any push back what so ever.

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Thanks for the advise Son of Gt. So do you think it will ba a problem driving the vehicle? Or should I have it towed?

 

Your clutch is only going to get progressively worse. Have you driven it since you came home from the run? I ask because the clutch gets much worse after it's cooled down, so you might not even be able to get the car out of your driveway. If you can and your dealer is close to where you live, you should be able to drive it there without breaking down.

 

Based on what you wrote about your weekend run, I'm assuming that you reside in the OC or north SD county area. If that's the case and you end up going to Galpin, then I would definately have it towed there.

 

Just hold your ground with your dealer. If necessary, do a search for the TSB here, print a copy of it and have it with you when you meet with the service writer.

 

Keep us posted here, and if you do end up going to Galpin, PM me and I will give you Nelson's contact information.

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Your clutch is only going to get progressively worse. Have you driven it since you came home from the run? I ask because the clutch gets much worse after it's cooled down, so you might not even be able to get the car out of your driveway. If you can and your dealer is close to where you live, you should be able to drive it there without breaking down.

 

Based on what you wrote about your weekend run, I'm assuming that you reside in the OC or north SD county area. If that's the case and you end up going to Galpin, then I would definately have it towed there.

 

Just hold your ground with your dealer. If necessary, do a search for the TSB here, print a copy of it and have it with you when you meet with the service writer.

 

Keep us posted here, and if you do end up going to Galpin, PM me and I will give you Nelson's contact information.

 

 

No I haven't driven the car at all since last night. I actually reside in the Inland Empire (Riverside). I have Raceway Ford like 1 1/2 miles away. I usually take it down to Fritts because I like there service hopefully its drivable, if not I have AAA and towing should not be a problem so I would just have to request the correct tow truck because of the clearance it will need. I found it so im going to print it and take it with me. Ill pm you if I need the info. Where in Socal do you reside?

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Ford will pay you back for the tow if it is a warranty repair. They also HAVE to give you a rental car if it's warranty. I would drive it there just to make sure the clutch is "nice and toasty" for when they road test it to verify the slipage. You won't be hurting anything that isn't going to be replaced anyway.

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This is the second instance in the last week that an owner has had clutch slippage problems... This should now become a mandatory recall before others are left in the dark and have an engine failure that could even cause an acccident while driving.....C'mon Ford

 

 

I strongly agree.

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I hope you read all the previous posts on this topic since 2007. Grabber has already outlined how to address the dealer and if necessary the regional rep. The key is to have the dealer tech's document and report what they have found. Based on all those that have gone before you, Ford will find a failed clutch. But they should also find a warped flywheel. The warped flywheel is actually what causes the clutch to fail. The flywheel heats up from stop and go traffic or clutch drag which is difficult for an owner to detect. Again, in Grabbers outline he details how and why the failures occurred and Fords redesign of the flywheel.

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Hey guys had a few things on my mind, ok first off so basically you step on the throttle and the car does not make any boost and barely moves or does the car not move at all? do the rpms jump up or gradually move up?... now as far as my knowledge goes (i may wrong) your car making no boost shouldnt have anything to do with your clutch or flywheel... as for the supercharger, it is directly connected to your harmonic balancer, it does not matter whether clutch is slipping or not. If your rpm moves up you must make boost. Now you not making boost could be from a small vacuum leak some where going to the supercharger, maybe like a bad vacuum hose or something, or maybe your computer is reading a parameter that is off a set value and in order to keep things safe, is not allowing you to make boost via the maf sensor control and ect... so your clutch slipping most liking isn't causing boost problems because the only thing your clutch is responsible for is transporting the power from your engine to your rear end, not controlling your power. I don't see how a clutch slipping would stop a supercharger from making boost, unless someone does a good job explaining how? thanks guys and I'm sorry for the long reply.

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Hey guys had a few things on my mind, ok first off so basically you step on the throttle and the car does not make any boost and barely moves or does the car not move at all? do the rpms jump up or gradually move up?... now as far as my knowledge goes (i may wrong) your car making no boost shouldnt have anything to do with your clutch or flywheel... as for the supercharger, it is directly connected to your harmonic balancer, it does not matter whether clutch is slipping or not. If your rpm moves up you must make boost. Now you not making boost could be from a small vacuum leak some where going to the supercharger, maybe like a bad vacuum hose or something, or maybe your computer is reading a parameter that is off a set value and in order to keep things safe, is not allowing you to make boost via the maf sensor control and ect... so your clutch slipping most liking isn't causing boost problems because the only thing your clutch is responsible for is transporting the power from your engine to your rear end, not controlling your power. I don't see how a clutch slipping would stop a supercharger from making boost, unless someone does a good job explaining how? thanks guys and I'm sorry for the long reply.

You are right, the clutch does not have anything to do with the supercharger creating boost per se, HOWEVER the S/C bypass valve (controller) will only remain closed (boost) when there is a load put on the engine. If the clutch is toast, the engine is freewheeling (like reving it netural) so the S/C management system says "no load, no boost".

 

So if your driving along at 65 MPH in 6th, and downshift into 3rd while mashing the throttle, the S/C bypass valve will close and the S/C will generate boost. If your clutch is toast and slipping badly and you repeat that same senario, the bypass valve will say open and the engine will rev freely but you will gain very little if any MPH.

 

When my clutch decided to take a cruise south to Mexico, I could engage the clutch at low R.P.M.'s but it would start to slip the second I would give it any amount of throttle. As long as I kept the engine revs low, the car would go forward but there was no way that the S/C would generate any boost.

 

Hope this helps.

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interesting.... so now out of curiosity is the bypass valve in the gt500 vacuum controlled or electronic?

 

as far as i know load is calculated with the maf sensor, throttle position vs the amount of air being passed through the maf at that given rpm ( i may be wrong thou)

 

also something that went through my mind is maybe he could check if the car recognizes what gear the transmission is in, and back to the clutch slipping problem, to me sounds like the guy went out n got some thing to eat (gave enough time to cool the tranny and the clutch down) and tryed boosting the car in 6th, now at low rpm the clutch shouldn't really be slipping, its when u usually get at higher rpm's when you make more power and higher load on the motor.

 

sounds like an interesting problem i would love to get more info from the owner of the car, like how long has he had that clutch for, has he touched any of the wire

 

and also i would love to know the problem that caused this, if the car has been fixed.

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interesting.... so now out of curiosity is the bypass valve in the gt500 vacuum controlled or electronic?

Electronic.

 

as far as i know load is calculated with the maf sensor, throttle position vs the amount of air being passed through the maf at that given rpm ( i may be wrong thou)

Yes, that's right.

 

also something that went through my mind is maybe he could check if the car recognizes what gear the transmission is in

It doesn't, but that wouldn't be an issue in this case. His clutch is toast; I would be shocked if it was anything else but a toasted clutch.

 

and back to the clutch slipping problem, to me sounds like the guy went out n got some thing to eat (gave enough time to cool the tranny and the clutch down) and tryed boosting the car in 6th.

Yes, that's what happend. The TSB (Technicial Service Bulletin) put out by Ford states that the flywheel does not have an adquate surface area to dissipate the heat and could/will warp after it's been heated and cooled. After failure, unless you drive the car agressively, you might make it all the way home, park the car, and not even know that your clutch has failed until the first time you drive the car after it's completely cooled down.

 

now at low rpm the clutch shouldn't really be slipping, its when u usually get at higher rpm's when you make more power and higher load on the motor.

That's correct, however low RPM's are no guarantee that the clutch won't slip on you. And don't forget, if it's completely gone, you won't even be able to put the car in gear while the engine is running.

 

sounds like an interesting problem i would love to get more info from the owner of the car, like how long has he had that clutch for, has he touched any of the wire

Well, nexxone_05 is the original poster and I don't think that he touched any wires. As far as how long he has had his clutch, he posted that he only has 14,000 miles on his car, and that's right in the failure zone. Mine went south at 18,000, and there are other members here that have failures as low as 8,000 miles so that avarages out to be around 14,000 miles. This is unfortunately a common failure with the 07, 08, and early 09 cars so the owner did not cause this failure other than driving the car. nexxone_05 has been reading this forum including your request now, so I suspect that he will keep everyone posted.

 

and also i would love to know the problem that caused this, if the car has been fixed.

 

Trust me it's the clutch and it failed due to an engineering, design, and material flaw that's outlined in the TSB, and I'm sure he will let us know the outcome of the repair.

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You are right, the clutch does not have anything to do with the supercharger creating boost per se, HOWEVER the S/C bypass valve (controller) will only remain closed (boost) when there is a load put on the engine. If the clutch is toast, the engine is freewheeling (like reving it netural) so the S/C management system says "no load, no boost".

 

So if your driving along at 65 MPH in 6th, and downshift into 3rd while mashing the throttle, the S/C bypass valve will close and the S/C will generate boost. If your clutch is toast and slipping badly and you repeat that same senario, the bypass valve will say open and the engine will rev freely but you will gain very little if any MPH.

 

When my clutch decided to take a cruise south to Mexico, I could engage the clutch at low R.P.M.'s but it would start to slip the second I would give it any amount of throttle. As long as I kept the engine revs low, the car would go forward but there was no way that the S/C would generate any boost.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

Im not sayin your wrong, but if i put my car in neutral and rev it up it boosts and whines.....

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