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Plenty of Power And No Traction!


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Hey Guys! I wanted to get some thoughts about what mods will it take to make our cars Hook-up and go :shift: . I know that I am going to do at least a Stage 2 mod. to my car and I know a lot of you are planning mods also. But what good is all the power when all you do is spin? I know we have traction control but it limits power also, I want all the power and traction so whats the fix. Is it a wider softer rubber tire or is it a suspension mod, what will do the trick? I know some of you guys have had Shelby's for a longtime and can help a rookie like me out.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Brian

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I will pray SVT will offer the IRS as an option. please release the blue print please! :drool:

 

That really has nothing to do with the car hooking up.

 

Just get the Roush Anti-Wheel Hop kit. That will help. I have one on the way.

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Hey Guys! I wanted to get some thoughts about what mods will it take to make our cars Hook-up and go :shift: . I know that I am going to do at least a Stage 2 mod. to my car and I know a lot of you are planning mods also. But what good is all the power when all you do is spin? I know we have traction control but it limits power also, I want all the power and traction so whats the fix. Is it a wider softer rubber tire or is it a suspension mod, what will do the trick? I know some of you guys have had Shelby's for a longtime and can help a rookie like me out.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Brian

 

Brian,

 

You're going to want to start by getting rid of all the soft rubber bushings in the rear of the car. I'd start off with some upper and lower control arms, panhard rod, upper mount and lower relocation brackets. You're best bet for the control arms is going to be an adjustable upper and fixed lowers. Then it's going to all depend on what you're doing with the car. If it's driven daily and will never see the track you're probably better off with poly bushings all around. If the car will be driven a lot on the street but take some trips to the track go with a poly/rod end combo. The poly stays on the chassis so that you won't get a ton of noise feedback. Then if you're going all out race go rod end/rod end. Once the stuff I mentioned is done then you'll want a good set of drag radials. The issue is finding a drag radial to fit a 19" rim if you have a coupe.

 

Please feel free to give us a call if you have any questions and we'll be glad to help you out.

 

Thanks, Jared

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Brian,

 

You're going to want to start by getting rid of all the soft rubber bushings in the rear of the car. I'd start off with some upper and lower control arms, panhard rod, upper mount and lower relocation brackets. You're best bet for the control arms is going to be an adjustable upper and fixed lowers. Then it's going to all depend on what you're doing with the car. If it's driven daily and will never see the track you're probably better off with poly bushings all around. If the car will be driven a lot on the street but take some trips to the track go with a poly/rod end combo. The poly stays on the chassis so that you won't get a ton of noise feedback. Then if you're going all out race go rod end/rod end. Once the stuff I mentioned is done then you'll want a good set of drag radials. The issue is finding a drag radial to fit a 19" rim if you have a coupe.

 

Please feel free to give us a call if you have any questions and we'll be glad to help you out.

 

Thanks, Jared

 

Great info--i have a ragtop and I havent had that much of an issue with breaking loose on a hard start.I know the vert has a different front to back weight ratio than the coupe, --the coupe is more front weighted.Do you any of you rare vetr owners find the same thing, ie launch is kind of solid??

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Great info--i have a ragtop and I havent had that much of an issue with breaking loose on a hard start.I know the vert has a different front to back weight ratio than the coupe, --the coupe is more front weighted.Do you any of you rare vetr owners find the same thing, ie launch is kind of solid??

My '08 has only axle hopped once. I don't generally leave the light full throttle as it just spins like crazy, so I manage the throttle thru first, then shift to second and go WOT. Sometimes that gets crazy, too.

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Hey Guys! I wanted to get some thoughts about what mods will it take to make our cars Hook-up and go :shift: . I know that I am going to do at least a Stage 2 mod. to my car and I know a lot of you are planning mods also. But what good is all the power when all you do is spin? I know we have traction control but it limits power also, I want all the power and traction so whats the fix. Is it a wider softer rubber tire or is it a suspension mod, what will do the trick? I know some of you guys have had Shelby's for a longtime and can help a rookie like me out.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Brian

 

I like a slow phased in approach to performance suspension mods. Keep in mind that the more OEM parts that you replace the more noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) you will experience in the cabin. However, if increased NVH is not important to you then mod away.

 

A number of members have solved the wheel hop with just replacing the upper control arms or just the upper control arm bushings. If that doesn't solve the hop (and it has for many) you can followup with replacing the lower control arms.

 

Your future plans will dictate which type of parts to use. For instance the upper control arms are sold as fixed or adjustable. Stock ride height can use fixed but if you plan to lower the car you need adjustable. If you lower the car you will also need a new adjustable panhard bar.

 

Look back through the mods section a couple of years to see what members have had success with using the different products.

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Great info--i have a ragtop and I havent had that much of an issue with breaking loose on a hard start.I know the vert has a different front to back weight ratio than the coupe, --the coupe is more front weighted.Do you any of you rare vetr owners find the same thing, ie launch is kind of solid??

 

 

Well regardless of whether it's a vert or coupe my opinion is that a stock car will not experience much wheel hop or lost traction because the car isn't even making that much power. I remember when we first got our 08'. The car would hook real good on the street and the track. I never really noticed any wheel hop and we could pull consistent 60ft times with it. Just launch the car and bang through the gears without a problem. The problem starts to show itself as you build the car to make more power. Once you do lets say a pulley or an aftermarket supercharger all that extra power starts to show it's face with lost traction. That's why you hear people always say " I'm making all this power but running the same times because I have no traction." That's the point where I suggest looking into the suspension upgrades like I mentioned above. I believe if you're going to keep the car stock then you really don't need to do much as the traction issues don't really become an issue until the extra power is added. Just as Ingram4868 mentioned along with the upgraded suspension mods you start to lose the stock feel/ride. Not a lot but it's just not the same having even a poly bushing setup as opposed to a soft rubber oem style bushing.

 

So my suggestion is if you're comfortable with the stock power and ride then don't mess with it. If you intent on building to make more power and run faster than it would be a good idea to start with some suspension mods like uppers/lowers and a panhard rod.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Jared

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Somewhat off topic I'm noticing a trend with vendors. Lethal takes the time to explain things and not plug their product. Evo on the other hand likes to plug their product and not really explain things outside of calling them. Now I bought my tune from Evo since they were the only one with a 2010 at the time. Mixxer was also helpful on the phone as well during the purchase. However, Lethal's way of communicating through the forms is leading me to do business with them as well.

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My '08 has only axle hopped once. I don't generally leave the light full throttle as it just spins like crazy, so I manage the throttle thru first, then shift to second and go WOT. Sometimes that gets crazy, too.

 

 

That's My Point, how can you harness the stock power? It is a problem if you really hammer the car at launch all the way through 3rd gear you get a lot of wheel spin "loss of traction and time". I personally have not experienced wheel hop but would like for my car to hook-up when I want it two. When you watch videos on these cars vs. camaro's challengers and vettes the problem with the 500 is not power, performance or handeling it is excessive wheel spin that kills the 0-60 and quarter mile times. Do the suspension upgrades really make the ride rougher and create more suspension noise?

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Listen to Jared....he is speaking from both knowledge and experience. One very important thing to understand....."if you like the stock ride, noise, etc...be very careful what you mod because you will sacrifice those things to get the performance gains you are trying to acheive with mods". Not saying don't do it as I have on every performance car I have owned....just be willing to accept the trade offs.

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Listen to Jared....he is speaking from both knowledge and experience. One very important thing to understand....."if you like the stock ride, noise, etc...be very careful what you mod because you will sacrifice those things to get the performance gains you are trying to acheive with mods". Not saying don't do it as I have on every performance car I have owned....just be willing to accept the trade offs.

 

 

Thanks to you and Jared for the information. I do want to mod my car it is not a daily driver for me but I definitely will not let it sit all the time either. I have a Mod shop within about twenty miles from me that I talked to and they come highly recommended by a lot of the mustang owners in the area. If I were to buy a stage 2 package it comes with a tune, these guys have two dynos and do their own tunes. Do you think I would do better to let them custom tune my car and just purchase the components less the tune? I want to get in the 625 rwhp range on my car what would you recommend mod wise not includeing a superchrager upgrade to get the 625+ rwhp?

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First question you need to answer is "what is your end goal? If you want to enjoy the power of the car with spirited second, third gear pulls when traffic allows or are you going to be dumping the clutch at the strip and banging the gears? If it is the first then you can upgrade the tune and go to a lower pulley and probably stop. You will love the additional torque and the throttle response but can still enjoy the car as Ford intended from a ride quality and quiteness perspective. Some vendors will recommend an upgrade on the heat exchanger and it will help but these engines run hot and even with the upgrade the PCM will pull power at some point...again what is your end goal. In terms of suspension the wheel hop will be an issue if you plan to go with additional power but again only if you intend to race or do burn outs. People have had results with different solutions. Some just go with lower control arms...some upper control arms...some with both and there are other pieces and parts (check the vendors for their solutions). I would recommend you spend some time on the Modification section of this forum and see what others have done and what worked for them. In either case do your research and if possible stage your mods to where you see how the car reacts to each modification and look for solutions that will progressively give you the result you are looking for. Moding your car is a journey, if you are going to do it then take your time, do your research and where possible let others try things to prove them out then follow their lead. Great thing about these forums...you do not have to spend a penny to learn what works and what does not.

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Indeed we do. I'm just about done putting all the new power packages on the site. It will be live in less than 5 minutes.

 

Please feel free to give us a call if you have any questions.

 

Thanks, Jared

 

I noticed you are including the intake with them. Is it really needed given the one Ford provides? We can't be talking that much of a difference between the Ford unit and a JLT or C&L to justify cost.....

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If you do not want any bad side effects from aftermarket control arms go with the Roush anti wheelhop kit it has the same NVH as OEM and will get rid of the wheelhop. Even with a stock car you will get allot of wheelhop especially if you live up towards the North where the pavement gets cold. My 2008 GT500 would wheelhop so bad that if you had dentures you would lose them. The roush kit fixed the wheelhop and did not change the ride, it just improved it. My 2010 GT500 will be getting one soon.

Edited by COBRA32
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Hey Guys! I wanted to get some thoughts about what mods will it take to make our cars Hook-up and go :shift: . I know that I am going to do at least a Stage 2 mod. to my car and I know a lot of you are planning mods also. But what good is all the power when all you do is spin?

 

 

ET Streets. Start with your tires.

 

Nitto 555Rs if a daily driver. The car is too heavy/powerful for any street tire, unless finessed perfectly.

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Hey Guys! I wanted to get some thoughts about what mods will it take to make our cars Hook-up and go :shift: . I know that I am going to do at least a Stage 2 mod. to my car and I know a lot of you are planning mods also. But what good is all the power when all you do is spin?

 

 

ET Streets. Start with your tires.

 

Nitto 555Rs if a daily driver. The car is too heavy/powerful for any street tire, unless finessed perfectly.

 

Unfortunately Nitto does not make, or anyone that I can find for that matter, a 19" drag radial. I was told by my wheel rep. that a 295 on the rear would be the widest I was able to go comfortably to not worry about any rubbing. An extra 10mm wider is like .3" inches which is pretty much nothing. An extra .6" inch when both tires are replaced with 295. I dunno. :banghead:

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