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SHORTY HEADERS INSTALL PAIN IN THE A$%


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Now before I start I work on my own car because I trust few with quality and when work is done it should be like no one ever touched my car, hence why I decided to install my shorty's as well.

 

What a PITA these are. I can tell you certain instruction leave much to be desired.

 

1. The various sensors to disconnect are not that bad unless you have hulk arms

 

2. There are 4 clamps rear of the converters on the H-pipe. The far rear are the ones to get out to drop the pipe

 

3. Now the fun. You can't get at the 2 bolts that are under the motor mount especially on the passenger side. Easiest way was to disconnect the mount at the engine and the car and raise up the engine so the entire mount could be removed from there. Evan with that there is one last bolt right behind the AC compressor and you need to loosen the compressor mount to get it out

 

4. I'm debating on using the new header bolts or these studs because the studs being long they leave few options on a socket

 

5. So after 4 hours and several choice words everything is out. The new items will start going in later. After many discussions with shops and FRPP I think I will use the stock studs as they seem to hold better and I damn sure don't want to figure out how to tighten a header bolt after everything is back in

 

6. I'm at the 50% mark so hopefully it will go faster now that I figured out all the work arounds.

 

:banghead::headscratch::censored:

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Now before I start I work on my own car because I trust few with quality and when work is done it should be like no one ever touched my car, hence why I decided to install my shorty's as well.

 

What a PITA these are. I can tell you certain instruction leave much to be desired.

 

1. The various sensors to disconnect are not that bad unless you have hulk arms

 

2. There are 4 clamps rear of the converters on the H-pipe. The far rear are the ones to get out to drop the pipe

 

3. Now the fun. You can't get at the 2 bolts that are under the motor mount especially on the passenger side. Easiest way was to disconnect the mount at the engine and the car and raise up the engine so the entire mount could be removed from there. Evan with that there is one last bolt right behind the AC compressor and you need to loosen the compressor mount to get it out

 

4. I'm debating on using the new header bolts or these studs because the studs being long they leave few options on a socket

 

5. So after 4 hours and several choice words everything is out. The new items will start going in later. After many discussions with shops and FRPP I think I will use the stock studs as they seem to hold better and I damn sure don't want to figure out how to tighten a header bolt after everything is back in

 

6. I'm at the 50% mark so hopefully it will go faster now that I figured out all the work arounds.

 

:banghead::headscratch::censored:

 

Had mine done at the dealer they pulled my engine half way out!! I wasn't in the mood for a headache.

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I had the JBA ceremic shorty's installed. It took about 5 hours for installation on a lift. I paid less than 400.00 for install. I already saw the handwriting on the wall and decided this job wasn't for me. I decided on ceremic on account i might have s/c installed someday and just maybe there will be a little less heat under the hood.

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I went with the FRPP Ceramic shorty. They were the best looking and stream lined for what I wanted out of them.

 

Last night I got the headers on, motor mounts back on and the engine back down. Re-connected the steering and all that is left for today is the H-Pipe and I don't expect a issue there.

 

I did this by myself and when done today took 7 hours all in all. About 2 of that was figuring out how to get the engine up and the motor mounts off along with the AC compressor that needed loosened. I used ramps and a lift would have made it easier I suppose.

 

I have the tools and experience but I will tell anyone this is a big pain in the ASS, and if I know what I know now I would have not done it or taken it somewhere. My main reason was to get rid of the rusty crappy iron manifolds. Maybe reduce some heat but make it compliment the rest of the compartment that is polished powder coated aluminum. Was not at all concerned with gains because I have 470rwhp now with my 550 Whipple set up.

:shift: :happy feet:

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I've had a set of Pypes polished stainless shorties and a set of Prothane billet motor mounts sitting on the shelf since I had my other car. also some locking header bolts. Just can't find the time to do it for the gains I'll get.(Next to none, just better looks.) Avg. price around here is $600. to do it and there's no way I'll pay that.

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Some pointers and info on the FRPP or any Shorty Header install.

 

1. I called several shops and my own feeling of the factory studs / nuts is they are better and less likely to loosen after heat and cooling. Most after market bolts don't hold.

 

2. The FRPP gasket was paper and again the feedback was use the multi-layer original metal gaskets because they don't leak. So I did.

 

3. Another item not mentioned anywhere is I guess when you disconnect the battery, mine was 3 days, now you have to re-program the tire sensor because of a fault, at least I did. I had no engine code, or check engine light just the tire sensor fault. So if you don't have a small programmer you go to the dealer or get one. Mine was from Steeda I got a few months back just in case and glad I did.

 

4. I can tell a little bit better response with these headers and regardless, I laid rubber after shifting to 2nd for about 100 feet and then more in 3rd. Had to be careful there so not to slip the clutch that is still stock but does well.

 

5. The only extra I needed for the install is the $80 massage my 49 year old back is going to get in a couple days.

 

:peelout: :happy feet:

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If the only improvement in shorty headers is appearance, eleven hundred dollars parts and labor seems like a lot to throw at it.

 

When I was a lad there was a product that was powdered aluminum in some kind of paint vehicle. You scrubbed the headers, brushed on the coating, and the heat of operation caused the aluminum to be deposited on the iron. After a few hot cycles, you could polish the surface just like solid aluminum. It looked good when kept clean, for all the time I had the car.

 

At the time (middle 1960s) the treatment-in-a-bottle was expensive - $12.95, if I recall correctly - but worth it. I can't remember the name of the stuff, nor have I found anything like it on line.

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I re-checked everything and all tight as they were. Glad I stayed with the Ford studs and nut as a couple shops recommended. Car looks and runs quite well and would never know someone was doing surgery because I don't take short cuts or rush. Was not really what I wanted to do mind you but save around $500-$700 install labor.

:shift:

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