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Launching on drag radial's


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So I am the proud owner of a 08 Vapor silver. I love the car and have had Terminators, and also S197 cars, but never a GT500. I wanted to see what it would do in stock form before I start wrenching on it. I took it to the dyno and it made 430/418 in stock form. I took it to the track with F1's and the best I could run is a 13.4 @109 with no traction. I tried launching at all different rpm's and would either bog or spin and hop. I then put Sportline springs and MT 305/35/18 and tried again. Best I could do on the drag radials was 13.0 @ 107. My 60ft is horrible and Im still spinning. Tried heating the tires up a ton and some very little. I got better traction when I did a shorter burnout. I want to get into the high 12's before I do engine work and I know its all in the launch on these cars. Do I really need UCA and LCA to adjust pinion angle. Ive heard you should NOT buy control arms for traction, but I need a way to get the power to the ground and launch at 4K like I did in my Terminator.

 

thanks

 

Dave

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congrads on the car and its the fastest color. to get your car to launch at 4k u are going to need upper and low with a lower relocation braket I have steeda lower and bmr upper and panhard par with Qal doulbe shock. you are going have to get 15 inch rims out back with drags tires like m&h or mickey to get there and still not easy I think 3k to 3.5k is were u are going to be. or you can just try some 305/45/18 mt dot drag tire they will help alot. not going to launch at 4 mybe 2. good luck im sure u will get alot of help in here.

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4000 is way to hard of a launch, try 23-2800 it should be a lot easier not to spin, 2 gear burn out's only

and you will need a upper control arm J&M adjustable is the best and lower control arms are needed as well both are fairly easy to install , you do need new bolts and nuts when you change them out

 

 

 

welcome to the Team :happy feet:

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So I am the proud owner of a 08 Vapor silver. I love the car and have had Terminators, and also S197 cars, but never a GT500. I wanted to see what it would do in stock form before I start wrenching on it. I took it to the dyno and it made 430/418 in stock form. I took it to the track with F1's and the best I could run is a 13.4 @109 with no traction. I tried launching at all different rpm's and would either bog or spin and hop. I then put Sportline springs and MT 305/35/18 and tried again. Best I could do on the drag radials was 13.0 @ 107. My 60ft is horrible and Im still spinning. Tried heating the tires up a ton and some very little. I got better traction when I did a shorter burnout. I want to get into the high 12's before I do engine work and I know its all in the launch on these cars. Do I really need UCA and LCA to adjust pinion angle. Ive heard you should NOT buy control arms for traction, but I need a way to get the power to the ground and launch at 4K like I did in my Terminator.

 

thanks

 

Dave

Here goes so you will get a lot of opinions- on street tires stock or not it is tough to control this car on or off the track- can be really tough at the track becauses you have the no fear factor and use a lot more juice in a shorter time. Your post makes me believe your car is totally stock- at the least I would put on a jlt so it could get some air and buy a tune for the car- evolution etc.- that will wake it up even more , If you have that I would say that would be the minimum and not a mod but a necessity. If you have wheel hop which you mention I would put lower control arms and an upper- I used steeda and it stopped the wheel hop- maybe not the best but did the job for me as I seldom run better than low 12s at 117. I launch at around 2200 and run mts drag radials the same size as yours- I also have a pulley but that is it- still run stock gears- elevation tucson over 3000 which effects times a lot. I aslo have a line lock that helps me a lot on the burnout- I need one good one per night and the rest are quick and to the point. I am happy running low to mid 12s so I have stopped modding and am tryhing to keep my clutch together. My 60 ft is terrible but trying to be consistent on a run is another goal I am working on so I am more consistent on a lower rpm launch. You have to find the point where you still have good traction and do not bog. Your goal should be attainable but when reached you will want more and the car will give it to you. You drove extermintors so you must have some of the feel- more wheel time and a few mods and the 12s hit in a hurry- lots of guys run 12s stock at the right elevation and even in stock tires but not me. I good sideways on the stock tires- on the street they are ok as I only play on the street- short hits and some freerway runs. Now with that said good luck and happy driving.
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Novice racer here, with about 100 passes. Best to date in completely STOCK form is 12.80 at 114.

Best launches have always been between 2000-2500 RPM.

 

Suspect DRs would need a little higher RPM, but not too much without some rear suspension upgrades.

 

Got to drive it away from the line, can't just dump it...

 

Congrats on your Shelby and welcome to the TS forums!

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Your going to need some gear also. I'd go with 3.90's or 3.73's. If are going to keep it stock or less then 700 HP. Then get 4.10's for best times and go with a taller tire in rear. Like 28 to 29 inches. Removing front sway bar helps. Best shocks for rear is MMR's coilovers kit and some lighter spring in front. Or QA1's work also. 'Make sure you adjust LCA brackets so you don't have any squat. If all else fails slip your clutch a little at launch.

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...Then get 4.10's for best times ...

 

I have a question here - what are the advantages of 4.10 above stock 3.31? I put the data to gearing calculator, and besides getting very low (is it even useful?) 1st gear, it simply moves your gears "one down" - I mean 3rd (4.10) is like 2nd(3.31); 4th(4.10) have same speeds like 3rd(3.31), and so on. Finaly 6th (4.10) is almost the same as 5th(3.31). That meaning one should be able to accelerate the same way in for ex. 3rd(4.10) as in 4th(3.31)

So besides "loosing" 6th gear, and getting 1st very short - what's it good for?

 

'Make sure you adjust LCA brackets so you don't have any squat.

 

I'm not sure I do understand correctly, could you please explain this for me?

 

Thanks!

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Thanks for all the feedback guys. You guys are great. My goal is to run in the 12's with a stock motor. I just ordered J&M adjustable UCA, LCA, relocation brackets, and adjustable panhard from Lethal Performance. Will let you know how it all turns out.

wait till you get them on and you will not beleive the difference :happy feet:

 

the relocation brackets are not needed unless you do some major lowering

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Welcome to the board,

with just LCA's i was able to run 2.16 60' at 12.85 at 112.9x. You will be able to do it. As Nelson SR from Evolution has said many times to me, this is a very tricky car for most people to drive 'well' because of it's great torque and power down so lw in the rpm. The trick is in the launch. drop those launch rpms, just barely bogging was very successful for me. 2500+or - a bit should work.

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I have a question here - what are the advantages of 4.10 above stock 3.31? I put the data to gearing calculator, and besides getting very low (is it even useful?) 1st gear, it simply moves your gears "one down" - I mean 3rd (4.10) is like 2nd(3.31); 4th(4.10) have same speeds like 3rd(3.31), and so on. Finaly 6th (4.10) is almost the same as 5th(3.31). That meaning one should be able to accelerate the same way in for ex. 3rd(4.10) as in 4th(3.31)

So besides "loosing" 6th gear, and getting 1st very short - what's it good for?

 

 

 

I'm not sure I do understand correctly, could you please explain this for me?

 

Thanks!

OK lower gears gives you faster acceleration. Lower gears can also allow you to run a taller tire. With out a negative effect on gear ratio. 28 to 29 inch tires have more side wall. This will give you better traction and also taller tires grow in height as speed increases. 28 inch tire will grow to about 29 inches at 100+ MPH. Its like having a built in extra gear. I could go forever on anti squat brackets. But in short, they change instant center or roll center. When you take off in your car. There is a lot of force trying to spine the rear end housing. So you can use that force to push the rear end housing to the ground. By changing the anti squat angle. From the factory Ford has it just the opposite. Instead of it pushing the housing down it pulls it up and the back end of the car squats as you take off. Now there is a trade off. More anti squat you add. The less traction you'll have while coasting. Not what you you would want for road racing. At least you wouldn't want a lot of anti squat for road racing. But for drag racing it works awesome. Works the same way traction bars work.

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I ran 12 flat on a hot night (94f) with a 1.8 60 foot time with CAI, pulley, tune and mt 305/35/18 tires at 20psi. Best with stock tire was 12.32 with 20psi in the tires. The only suspension mod I feel I needed was to change the upper control arm bushings to Prothane poly bushings. Made all the difference in the world, and have talked to some that just changed the forward upper control arm bushing with good luck. The bushing on top of the differential is a pain to remove.

I think next time I will run 10 to 12 psi in my Mickeys I was told that would eliminate the burnout at launch. I launch around 2800 rpm or at least try to. Also next time I will keep the burnout to a minimum due to the horsepower loss it causes due to heat soak. Let the car cool between runs.

I think that if i knew how to keep the inter cooler circulating when the engine is off that would help cool it down quicker. There is a way using a wire with 2 alligator clips i saw my tuner use but forgot which posts he hooked it up to...

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to get your pump to run when your key is on all u have to do is pull the cover off the third panal back on the passenger side of the fuse blocks on it will have two releys in it u need to pull the one closest to the front of the car then u take a mini fuse 30 amps and take a pair of needle nose and twist the one just a little bit and put it in the third hole back on the passenger side and the other into the center one in the middle message me if u dont under my info. dont forget to turn your car off dead battery. and when your are done racing just put the relay back in and put the fuse in your car for next time.

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to get your pump to run when your key is on all u have to do is pull the cover off the third panal back on the passenger side of the fuse blocks on it will have two releys in it u need to pull the one closest to the front of the car then u take a mini fuse 30 amps and take a pair of needle nose and twist the one just a little bit and put it in the third hole back on the passenger side and the other into the center one in the middle message me if u dont under my info. dont forget to turn your car off dead battery. and when your are done racing just put the relay back in and put the fuse in your car for next time.

Copy and paste into my Mustang folder for when I get home!

thanks!!!

Van is going to contact me about his heat exchanger too!!

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Last summer i went racing many times. I probably did 50 to 60 passes. All were in 85 to 90 degree Fla heat. Even hot lapping my car never lost any HP. I ran consistent 11.50's with 1.7 60 ft times. I say the stock inter cooler works killer for drag racing. I was testing different parts. I never lost any HP even when i would hot lap three times in a row. Also i drove to the track. 35 mile ride. So it was hot when i arrived.

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Last summer i went racing many times. I probably did 50 to 60 passes. All were in 85 to 90 degree Fla heat. Even hot lapping my car never lost any HP. I ran consistent 11.50's with 1.7 60 ft times. I say the stock inter cooler works killer for drag racing. I was testing different parts. I never lost any HP even when i would hot lap three times in a row. Also i drove to the track. 35 mile ride. So it was hot when i arrived.

Interesting...

I know that when my car was on the dyno it lost HP after the first run if not allowed to cool down awhile and that my car loses HP shortly after I go tearing out of my drive way. It is still running well just not quite as strong.

Though I have only made about 4 runs on the Mickey Thomsons I have made over 40 runs on the stock tires. The last time at the track I had the MT DR's on made 6 runs 2 hot laps before someone wrecked and shut us down for the night at test and tune... There is still quite a learning curve ahead for me which is part of the fun i am having.

Thanks for the input and i will let you know how well i think the heat exchanger works for me... And the lower tire pressure.... Practice practice.

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well with all of the talk about how "heat soak" kills our cobra's performance. i would like to ask the following question. how much would it cost to have the awsome K+R performance radiator and intercooler/with high capacity reservoir installed by my ford dealer here in indy? they have an awesome performance department so i am confident they can do the work. I am just trying to get an idea of the cost...thanks.......I also read somewhere on this forum that Shelby performance parts were going to be coming out with there own version of these radiators/intercoolers..in the future....has anyone heard anymore on this ?......This just seems like the most practical way to go for me....what good is adding a stage 2 or stage 3 Horse.Power. hop up only to have the engines computer retard timing and lower power in order to KEEP THE ENGINE COOL....

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