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paxton novi install


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HEY KEN,

 

SCOTTY HERE ,THE CAR LOOKS AWESOME AND THE S/C ALSO.

 

I TOOK A LISTEN TO YOUR VIDEO OF THE CAR AT IDLE AND IT

 

SOUNDS NORMAL. PLANETARY GEAR DRIVEN S/C ARE NATURALLY LOUDER THAN

 

TWINN SCREW S/C BECAUSE THERE ARE GEARS MESCHING TOGETHER AND THAT

 

ACCOUNTS FOR THE LOUDER WINDING.THAT IS ALSO WHY THEY HAVE COME OUT

 

WITH INTERCOOLERS FOR THE PLANETARY STYLE OVER THE YEARS. TO QUITE THEM

 

DOWN AND REDUCE HEAT BUILD UP.

 

 

THAT WINDING NOISE IS ONE OF THE DIFERENCES OF THE PLANETARY GEAR

 

BLOWER OVER A LOBED-NO GEARED TWINN SCREW ROOTS STYLE.

 

THE TWINN SCREWS TEND TO BE MORE QUITE.

 

 

I WOULD ALSO ADD I HAVE INSTALLED OVER A 100 VORTECH AND

 

PAXTONS COMBINED. ENJOY YOUR SWEET LOOKING GT/SC.

 

SCOTTY

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Hey Ken,

 

With the Paxton head unit (and others) you will hear some gear backlash noise at idle. When idling and through about 1800 RMS's it sounds like there are some loose parts rattling around inside due to the gear backlash. Once it starts building boost the "loose" sound goes away.

 

Not sure what you are hearing at 4000 RPMs but maybe the self lubricating head units sound different.

 

You've probably got very rich AFR and conservative timing in there still, I'll bet there's black soot on your tail pipe. You could see another 30-40 RWHP once Justin starts dialing in a more aggressive tune based on your data logging. So if you think it's a kick in the pants now it will just get better. It's probably going to take 2-3 iterations to get it where you want it.

 

Looking forward to seeing your dyno numbers...

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Absolutely awesome!!!!

I really like the red colored gauge lights. the sound while you were on the freeway was quieter than I thought it would be.

I, also, can't wait to see the #'s... :drool:

 

P.S. Was that a CHP at (timer) -54?

 

Dan

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I'll get some good video asap guys! Definitely this weekend sometime, you've got my word. I took the day off from work and spent the afternoon driving the car all over town. It was 107* outside today, so it was a hell of an opportunity to check for detonation and any other problems that might arise. I pushed the engine pretty good, but kept a close eye on the ECT, IAT, spark, etc, while driving with my Livewire hooked up. I heard no pinging and had no issues all day.

 

On a side note, I got it in to AED again today to get it dyno'ed. I called after 5 and Drew told me to come on out and that they'd have beer, pizza, and girls waiting. How could I say no?! ;)

 

I brought my camera, but no camera battery. :doh:

I did, however, get a printout. There were a few guys out there that hadn't seen my SGT yet. Drew and Shawn of AED told them right off the bat that my engine was a 'freak' and that it had made nutso power on just motor. They were nearly as excited as I was to see what the new #'s would be.

 

Here's the new dyno thread: http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...c=45792&hl=

 

Ken

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I've seen mine that high in this heat.

 

Interesting, our gauges are in different orders. Did they come in your car like that?

No sir, you must have the Nor-Cal edition SGT. I couldn't find an 07 when I started shopping for one, so I ended up with a VB 08 instead.

While the color has grown on me a lot, I still wished that I had the "Nor-Cal" car! So I bought the SPP gauge pod recently and installed them myself. :)

 

Ken

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I'm just cleaning out the pics from my phone and ran across these 2 pics of my old plugs. I replaced these with the FRPP zero degree plugs before installing the blower.

Anyway, the color and composition of the electrodes confirm what AED told me about my old Bamachips tune (that it was too lean). Just a heads up for anyone else out there running an email 'race' tune in a daily driver. It may be a good idea to get at least an air/fuel printout, just for peace of mind.

 

DSC06958.jpg

 

 

DSC06959.jpg

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That explains it. I wasn't sure if it came in the '08's or not. Mine is interesting in that it came with the gauges but doesn't have the unique sill plates nor does the Shelby window sticker mention the nor-cal edition as I've seen other's have. I bought it at Hanlee's in Davis. Feb '08

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That explains it. I wasn't sure if it came in the '08's or not. Mine is interesting in that it came with the gauges but doesn't have the unique sill plates nor does the Shelby window sticker mention the nor-cal edition as I've seen other's have. I bought it at Hanlee's in Davis. Feb '08

I think you have to contact Shelby Autos for the sill plates, if I remember correctly. Lots of guys have received them and just set them aside for posterity.

I'd definitely drop Bud a line at budm@shelbyautos.com to see if he can't help you out. Then be sure to offer them up for sale to me! :hysterical:

 

Ken

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Hi Ken,

 

I began the installation tonight ! I figure I'll get some done this weekend and wrap it up next. Here's the last of the pics I took. I got to the point where the tab needs to be cut/grind off.

 

Adios....

 

PICT0737.jpg

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I replaced these with the FRPP zero degree plugs before installing the blower.

 

Ken,

Curious if the FRPP are 2 piece like the OEM plugs ?

Have heard horror stories about these breaking off in the head, especially in a 5.4

 

Incredible install & OMG on the dyno data!

You are quite the skilled mechanic, fabricator, inovator...

Larry

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Hi Ken,

 

I began the installation tonight ! I figure I'll get some done this weekend and wrap it up next. Here's the last of the pics I took. I got to the point where the tab needs to be cut/grind off.

 

Adios....

Lookin good man! I can't wait to see how yours turns out. :happy feet:

Hang in there through the heat and drop me a line if I can help at all.

 

Ken,

Curious if the FRPP are 2 piece like the OEM plugs ?

Have heard horror stories about these breaking off in the head, especially in a 5.4

 

Incredible install & OMG on the dyno data!

You are quite the skilled mechanic, fabricator, inovator...

Larry

Thanks a lot for the kind words Larry! :)

The FRPP plugs are 2 piece and look identical to the Motorcraft plugs.

Here's a link to where you can buy a set: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-12405-3V0

 

fms-m-12405-3v0_w.jpg

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uh oh i use the bama race tune as a semi DD i wonder if i should go back to the HP or TQ tune.

I dunno man, but it may be worth getting an air/fuel printout at speed, just to be safe.

I'm not knocking Bama at all. I loved their tunes. Maybe Doug just didn't compensate for my mods correctly or something, but I was definitely running lean when I pulled 347 RWHP (before the blower).

That race tune they sell is the hottest tune I've ever experienced in an NA 3V. I'd hate to be the reason you ditch it, without knowing for sure!

 

Ken

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Here's the latest pic on my installation. Ken, reading your post about the t-stat adapter saved me some trouble. I think I would've used the wrong bolts and probably would've broken one. Your picture helped out immensly !

 

Keeping the garage door closed and blowing cool air in from the house has kept temps about 90-92; 100s outside. NOT BAD !!

 

PICT0746.jpg

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Here's the latest pic on my installation. Ken, reading your post about the t-stat adapter saved me some trouble. I think I would've used the wrong bolts and probably would've broken one. Your picture helped out immensly !

 

Keeping the garage door closed and blowing cool air in from the house has kept temps about 90-92; 100s outside. NOT BAD !!

Great work Ed! :happy feet:

You're making really good progress man. I'm glad my pics helped you out any. That t-stat housing adapter was a giant thorn in my side that night, so I'm happy to hear that you didn't make the same mistakes I made. Keep working that belt and you'll get it to roll over the SC pulley eventually. Like I said in my PM, it just takes a whole lot of beef into the belt tensioner while working every last millimeter of slack from the belt. Oh yeah, curse at it a lot too. That seemed to help me out some! :hysterical:

Good luck man.

 

Ken

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Hey Ed, there's something really important that I never mentioned in my previous posts.

You'll come to a section in the manual very soon that discusses the air inlet assembly. You'll see a section devoted to the blower bypass valve/hose install.

From the bottom of the metal inlet elbow, the 4.25" hose runs into the bypass valve, makes a 90 into the 15" section of hose, and finally into the white, 90* fitting back on the bottom of the flat inlet duct (just before the blower).

 

Well here's the important part. The HO kit (which we don't have) actually has 2 bypass valves. That's why you'll find a gaping threaded hole right next to the pre-installed, white plastic 90* fitting. That open, threaded port is NOT used with the non-cooled kit that we have. However, the install guide mentions NOTHING about this port for the non-cooled kit, other than to skip ahead to the next section. Paxton also does not include a plug for this port. If you leave it unplugged, you'll have a giant inlet for raw air to enter the system, unmetered after the MAF. This is bad news and can cause your engine all sorts of trouble. I scratched my head at this for awhile, reading and re-reading this section in the manual a dozen times, before taking matters into my own hands. Whether they specify it or not, you most certainly can't have this volume of air flowing into the intake unaccounted for.

 

Long story short, you need to run to the hardware store and find a 3/4" NPT plastic plug for that port! If this doesn't make any sense let me know and I'll tear my inlet ducting apart to get some detailed photos for you.

 

Ken

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You guys are awsome. Great detail Ken. At this time the Paxton is the only SC that will allow me to keep th stut brace and not cut my GTH hood.

 

One question, is thre a reason why niether of you purchased the polished unit? Just wondering if this is something hard to maintain and maybe that is why or just did not want the bling. In addition, several folks have went with the Novi SL 2200. Can an intercoller be put on the SL 1200 which I think uses or produces less boost?

 

Thanks and again, thanks for the great thread of information.

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One question, is thre a reason why niether of you purchased the polished unit? Just wondering if this is something hard to maintain and maybe that is why or just did not want the bling.

 

Good question. I was wondering the same thing. Could it be that the polished unit does not dissipate heat as well.. :lurk:

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Good question. I was wondering the same thing. Could it be that the polished unit does not dissipate heat as well.. :lurk:

Yes sir, that's why I was set on the satin unit from the get go. Whether it actually holds any less heat, I couldn't tell you, but that was my original thinking. After seeing how hot this thing runs now, I can't imagine the finish would make that big of a difference in that regard. However, the satin ended up matching my accessories a lot better than the polished kit would have, so I'm glad I went with this one.

 

This kit can be intercooled, yes. The charge cooler kit is around $1600 and I'm definitely planning on adding that asap.

 

Ken

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Hey Ed, there's something really important that I never mentioned in my previous posts.

You'll come to a section in the manual very soon that discusses the air inlet assembly. You'll see a section devoted to the blower bypass valve/hose install.

From the bottom of the metal inlet elbow, the 4.25" hose runs into the bypass valve, makes a 90 into the 15" section of hose, and finally into the white, 90* fitting back on the bottom of the flat inlet duct (just before the blower).

 

Well here's the important part. The HO kit (which we don't have) actually has 2 bypass valves. That's why you'll find a gaping threaded hole right next to the pre-installed, white plastic 90* fitting. That open, threaded port is NOT used with the non-cooled kit that we have. However, the install guide mentions NOTHING about this port for the non-cooled kit, other than to skip ahead to the next section. Paxton also does not include a plug for this port. If you leave it unplugged, you'll have a giant inlet for raw air to enter the system, unmetered after the MAF. This is bad news and can cause your engine all sorts of trouble. I scratched my head at this for awhile, reading and re-reading this section in the manual a dozen times, before taking matters into my own hands. Whether they specify it or not, you most certainly can't have this volume of air flowing into the intake unaccounted for.

 

Long story short, you need to run to the hardware store and find a 3/4" NPT plastic plug for that port! If this doesn't make any sense let me know and I'll tear my inlet ducting apart to get some detailed photos for you.

 

Ken

Thanks for letting me know !! Haven' t gotten there yet; took a nap this afternoon... :boring:

 

I'm anxious as hell but my 47 year old body was telling me to TAKE A BREAK ! NOW ! :hysterical:

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One question, is thre a reason why niether of you purchased the polished unit? Just wondering if this is something hard to maintain and maybe that is why or just did not want the bling. In addition, several folks have went with the Novi SL 2200. Can an intercoller be put on the SL 1200 which I think uses or produces less boost?

The reason I went with the satin is cost plus; got this unit for $3200. Also, I'm not crazy about chrome next to brushed billet assessories that I plan on adding eventually.

 

Looks like an intercooler will be necessary according to Ken's experience.

 

Good luck to you.

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The reason I went with the satin is cost plus; got this unit for $3200. Also, I'm not crazy about chrome next to brushed billet assessories that I plan on adding eventually.

 

Looks like an intercooler will be necessary according to Ken's experience.

 

Good luck to you.

If you ever plan on tracking your SGT, the intercooler is a must. Mine is running hotter than hell in this 105+ heat.

If not, then it's up to you. But I'd invest in a Livewire or something similar that you can monitor your intake air temp, coolant temp, oil temp, etc with very closely on those hot Texas days. Next up, I'd open up your hood or invest in a heat extracting hood. In the end, I think the intercooler will be the easier means to the end goal.

 

How's the install coming?

 

Ken

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Guest hfrosso

Hi there Ken!

That's amazing what you've got done.

I got one question , and i'm almost shore that i've mentioned this on the installation process, and i did read "almost" everything.

Before the installation didn't you have the frpp hot rod cams installed or am i mistaken????

reason i'm asking is because i'm planing on havin these cams installed,so i ask JDM if i have these cams installed now they would be ok if i decided to install a sc latter, and they told me that these cams would be to aggressive and could hurt power on a blower because of the heat they generate.

thank's for any info on these,

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