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Torched10

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Got 500 miles on my new baby,and pulled into the local Texaco lube spot.Ive known these guys for years--asked if they had synthetic for the Shelby.It needs SAE5/50, which they didnt have,and told me only Castrol has that blend.Have you guys confirmed that??Also, asked them to check my oil to see if its gotten dirty from all the engines crap that flushes out when you first run the car engine.The oil was super clean,not dark at all.So guess Ill run it for a whie befoe i dump the original oil

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Got 500 miles on my new baby,and pulled into the local Texaco lube spot.Ive known these guys for years--asked if they had synthetic for the Shelby.It needs SAE5/50, which they didnt have,and told me only Castrol has that blend.Have you guys confirmed that??Also, asked them to check my oil to see if its gotten dirty from all the engines crap that flushes out when you first run the car engine.The oil was super clean,not dark at all.So guess Ill run it for a whie befoe i dump the original oil

 

Unlike old engines which were not assembled with the care of the new ones, I don't see a need for 1000 mile oil change. I suggest you use the oil listed in your owners manual and use only 100% Synthetic. IMO!

Cobra010

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My understanding is that there are a few 5w/50 that can be used: Motorcraft, Castrol Syntec, MOBIL-1, and ROUSH.

Could be others, these are the ones I know of...

 

Had some time and did some more research into this--i agree that using the Ford prouducts make sense,but ive had scratches added at no charge when i drop my car off at dealers in the past,and im just trying to avoid that issue/The GT 40 folks have debated this issue, ie using Motorcraft vis a vis say Castrol.The Ford spec is WSS-M2C931-B which is an API type SM oil.The castrol is WSS-M2C931-A, which is a SL oil, the difference between the 2 is the amount of Zinc Phosphate (ZDDP) used in the product.There have been stuides showing too much ZDDP has been an issue with catalytics "gummin" up with high mileage cars (As an aside, ZDDP is critical to old muscle cars since it prevents wear in the tippets on start up, so i bought up alot of SL oil for my GTO).The Motorcraft oil is $15 at my Ford dealer here in Atl--the castrol is $6 at Walmart.I buy the oul and bring it to my loacl Texaco lube shop,and the charge me $1/qt,and i can watch them change the oil.But i understand the issue of using Ford oil.BTW, both oils are made by BP

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Honestly I think you'd be fine with any brand of full synthetic. I had to switch once between Mobil 1 and Castrol because the place I went to was out. My 05 GT is running strong with 55k on it.

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Got 500 miles on my new baby,and pulled into the local Texaco lube spot.Ive known these guys for years--asked if they had synthetic for the Shelby.It needs SAE5/50, which they didnt have,and told me only Castrol has that blend.Have you guys confirmed that??Also, asked them to check my oil to see if its gotten dirty from all the engines crap that flushes out when you first run the car engine.The oil was super clean,not dark at all.So guess Ill run it for a whie befoe i dump the original oil

Only Motorcraft and Roush Valvoline meet the Ford "B" spec. The others are probably fine but you might run into warranty problems. I use Motorcraft.

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If you go to k-mansparts.com they sell motorcraft oil for around $7.19 a quart and they also sell the filters that you need (Motorcraft FL-820S oil filter). Just remember that it takes 6 1/2 quarts of oil for a change

 

 

Thanks for the link--ill give them a try

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If you go to k-mansparts.com they sell motorcraft oil for around $7.19 a quart and they also sell the filters that you need (Motorcraft FL-820S oil filter). Just remember that it takes 6 1/2 quarts of oil for a change

 

SEMPER FEI !! you saved me over $100--i bought 14 qts of the correct Motorcraft oil,and 2 filters--the oil was $7.19/qt--Ford dealer wants $15--thanks for the tip.Im not changing the oil right now, but at least I have the correct stuff when i do

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FYI, just make sure if you do go to your dealer that they use the correct racing filter and not the standard one. My dealer doesn't even carry the Ford Racing filter. They have to order it through Ford Racing. The mechanics told me the standard one was okay to use but I prefer to use what comes on the car. Has anybody considered Wix, Nappa Gold or Purolator Pure Guard oil filters. These are suppose to be some of the best in the business. Wix makes the Nappa Gold and I believe that Purolator makes the Ford Racing filter. Anybody know of an independent web site that evaluates oil and filters?

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FYI, just make sure if you do go to your dealer that they use the correct racing filter and not the standard one. My dealer doesn't even carry the Ford Racing filter. They have to order it through Ford Racing. The mechanics told me the standard one was okay to use but I prefer to use what comes on the car. Has anybody considered Wix, Nappa Gold or Purolator Pure Guard oil filters. These are suppose to be some of the best in the business. Wix makes the Nappa Gold and I believe that Purolator makes the Ford Racing filter. Anybody know of an independent web site that evaluates oil and filters?

I ordered the one in the owners manual FL 820

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I ordered the one in the owners manual FL 820

 

K-mans is incredible. I ordered 14 qts of Motorcraft and 2 filters on Friday,and they just were deilivered.Since ive got them,and i have 600 iles on the car,ill change the oil/filter to make sure that whatever shavings have been caught by the filter are out of the system.

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K-mans is incredible. I ordered 14 qts of Motorcraft and 2 filters on Friday,and they just were deilivered.Since ive got them,and i have 600 iles on the car,ill change the oil/filter to make sure that whatever shavings have been caught by the filter are out of the system.

 

Can you let us know how easy it is to do the oil change. I checked with my local Shelby shop, and they said that I should change the oil after the first 1200mi. They also said that it's a difficult job because you have to remove some covers to get to the oil filter. I was planning on doing it myself until they told me it's a pita.

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Wonder why they wanted you to wait until 1200 miles. Did they give you a logical reason?

 

 

I did my first oil change on the 09 GT 500 today at 1300 miles. I bought the car almost a year ago and while it may not have needed it yet I went ahead with it. I bought my Motorcraft 5w - 50 full synthetic from my dealer for 7.00 a quart. I did the job myself as I don't want others working on my car. The oil filter removal was a PITA but I was able to get it done without making a huge mess of the underside of the car.

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FYI, just make sure if you do go to your dealer that they use the correct racing filter and not the standard one. My dealer doesn't even carry the Ford Racing filter. They have to order it through Ford Racing. The mechanics told me the standard one was okay to use but I prefer to use what comes on the car. Has anybody considered Wix, Nappa Gold or Purolator Pure Guard oil filters. These are suppose to be some of the best in the business. Wix makes the Nappa Gold and I believe that Purolator makes the Ford Racing filter. Anybody know of an independent web site that evaluates oil and filters?

My car had a FL-820S on it stock? Do some have the racing filters on them?

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SEMPER FEI !! you saved me over $100--i bought 14 qts of the correct Motorcraft oil,and 2 filters--the oil was $7.19/qt--Ford dealer wants $15--thanks for the tip.Im not changing the oil right now, but at least I have the correct stuff when i do

 

Your Ford dealer is on crack. $15 would make me stay very far from them for any service....

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Can you let us know how easy it is to do the oil change. I checked with my local Shelby shop, and they said that I should change the oil after the first 1200mi. They also said that it's a difficult job because you have to remove some covers to get to the oil filter. I was planning on doing it myself until they told me it's a pita.

 

I would be worried about this dealer, too, as I don't know what "covers" they can be thinking of other than the oil filler cap (if they think that is a cover)....

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I did my first oil change on the 09 GT 500 today at 1300 miles. I bought the car almost a year ago and while it may not have needed it yet I went ahead with it. I bought my Motorcraft 5w - 50 full synthetic from my dealer for 7.00 a quart. I did the job myself as I don't want others working on my car. The oil filter removal was a PITA but I was able to get it done without making a huge mess of the underside of the car.

 

 

3 questions --would it be easier on a lift,as to the PITA factor---what exactly made it difficult,was it behind something,diifcult to reach w/o a lift.Last, the only reason Im doing the change is that Im 64 and remeber that all the loose filing in the enigne would get caught in the filter and reduce its functionality--did you notice if your filter was dirty , ie was it alot heavier.thanks

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3 questions --would it be easier on a lift,as to the PITA factor---what exactly made it difficult,was it behind something,diifcult to reach w/o a lift.Last, the only reason Im doing the change is that Im 64 and remeber that all the loose filing in the enigne would get caught in the filter and reduce its functionality--did you notice if your filter was dirty , ie was it alot heavier.thanks

 

Yes, and for metal I hope there is no metal in mine!!! Old cars were well know for shavings etc. not now. The reason for first time let someone else change the oil is the factory usually uses a air gun to put the filter on and it usually takes 3 men and 2 small boys to brake it loose. That has been my experience in the past, I now let Ford change mine I don't have much trouble getting down but getting back up is a >>>>>>>>>

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Yes, and for metal I hope there is no metal in mine!!! Old cars were well know for shavings etc. not now. The reason for first time let someone else change the oil is the factory usually uses a air gun to put the filter on and it usually takes 3 men and 2 small boys to brake it loose. That has been my experience in the past, I now let Ford change mine I don't have much trouble getting down but getting back up is a >>>>>>>>>

 

cobra--thanks good input--ill have someone else do it the first time.Did you hear anything else on the car??

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Can you let us know how easy it is to do the oil change. I checked with my local Shelby shop, and they said that I should change the oil after the first 1200mi. They also said that it's a difficult job because you have to remove some covers to get to the oil filter. I was planning on doing it myself until they told me it's a pita.

The oil and filter are easy to change on the GT500. There are no covers to remove. You do need to raise the front of the car to access the filter and drain plug; I drive up on wooden step ramps. The most difficult part is removing the OEM oil filter which is cranked on pretty tight. I loosened the filter with a plier type oil filter wrench. The oil filter sits over structure so some oil will spill down on it when you loosen and remove the filter. I use aluminum foil to divert the oil into the drain pan and clean up any mess I make in the process. Partially fill the new filter with fresh oil before installing since it is oriented upside-down and don't forget to apply some oil to the filter gasket.

 

Oil_Change.jpg

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