Jump to content
TEAM SHELBY FORUM

rust--thank you forum


Torched10

Recommended Posts

thanks to the heads up from this forum,i met with a new best friedn today who has a lift in his basement.So we put my new baby on the lift and went about putting rust inhibitor on the rear,and also took off the scrapings on the front wheels.My car was just built 6/3, but thanks to the forum i could see on inspection that it was starting.so,just like any cancer,an early start will stop the entropy(i love that word).The inhibitor takes 24 hrs to cure,so ill clear it next week,then post pics.Interesting too, Ford must have used a lift under the car during assembly, but before they spray painted some ind of reddish rust prventive on the "frame",and it left about a 10in long non-coated section on both sides.Ill clear that too.On the wheels,i just used a 3M green scouring pad and most of it came off. Underneath the car theres oodles of markings--i tried taking pic with phone,but not enought light.Ill use a real camera next week and post them.

 

Ok finished the project today,and already posted some exhaust pics, but Im attaching 7 from under the car--I know, I know its just under the car,but as Ive said here before, if the plan is to keep the car low mileage, when you do sell it, a clean undercarriage is a big help in pricing.Also taped over all the labels and color markings with clear tape as well--hope this helps someone

post-24281-1246567818_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246567831_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246567842_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246567855_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246567865_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246567875_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246567888_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246567818_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246567831_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246567842_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246567855_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246567865_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246567875_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246567888_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was thinking about just leaving the rust alone because I didn't want rust bubbled paint. I figured it's going to rust if I paint it or not, but I dunno. So, did you sand off the rust that was there already or just paint over it? What brand and type of paint did you use? Brush on or spray? thx

 

Peel off the stickers while it's up on the rack, you'll hear them flapping around like cards on bicyle spokes.

 

pics?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm...I know it may old fashioned at this point probably..but so may a rust proofing treatment may be some benefit to us future Shelby owners? I had my '98 Cobra rust proofed when I first got it..and must say that it held up quite well - and whether true or not, I felt like it gave the car some great protection from possible undercarriage rust.

 

and just an FYI - I'm not buying this Shelby to be a "showcar" so covering up the markings and such on the bottom of the car is no concern of mine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was thinking about just leaving the rust alone because I didn't want rust bubbled paint. I figured it's going to rust if I paint it or not, but I dunno. So, did you sand off the rust that was there already or just paint over it? What brand and type of paint did you use? Brush on or spray? thx

 

Peel off the stickers while it's up on the rack, you'll hear them flapping around like cards on bicyle spokes.

 

pics?

 

As i mentioned my rust was just starting so it wasnt built up yet.Ive had to get rid of rust on a GTO once that had lots.There has been a rust problem with the Shelby since 2007,and if you do a search youl see some great ways to finish it off.Me personally,what i did this time was use to scrape off whatever rust i could reach with brillo(clean the brillo resideu off when thru),then I painted on with a product called Osco (?) , my friend had it.I did that till i brushed some into my eye, then went back to plan A of using Permatex, that NAPA carries.It takes 24 hours to cure,so next week,when i get to use the lift again,ill clear it with a good permanent clear,that can stand the heat,and water.Uisng the clear at least you can keep the oriignal mix of colors of the metal.If the rust is real bad, after killing it,eveything turns black, so i use a gloss frame enamel that I buy from Esatwood on line.They have some great paints,and have aluinum , and cast iron sprays as well.Ive found mixing the colors and types,ie gloss,semi,flwt. makes for an interesting look.

As far as keeping the labels, i just cover them with clear tape, its easy to do.I agree this is a driving car, but ive found on thses type cars,if you dont plan on driving it alot ( i do 3,000 miles per year), its good to keep them pretty original looking underneath--it really helps on re-sale.I just sold a 1999 Trans am with 20,000 miles on it,all documentatio etc,and got almost what I paid for it in 99, but twice the avergae TA price.Folks who buy low mileage cars,will pay a premium if it stil looks like the day it was new.Im not obsessive about it, maybe claen it a few times a year,but dont let things get ratty.Hope it helps.Ill post pics next week after i clear it, but right now it looks like new,ie no rust.I think Grabber did his car that had alot more rust and it looks fantastic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been following this topic to see if I can come up with some good answers. I see a bunch but I have a question. One of the worse photos I saw showed a completely rusted rear axle. The diff cover stood out because it was painted and everything else was rusted. So this led me to believe that the inside of the diff area and possibly the entire inside could be rusted as well. If that's the case, does anyone know how this can impact the lifetime of the axle? It would appear that cleaning the outside is only accomplishing a (desired) cosmetic fix. Should I be concerned beyond that? :lurk:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This may be a very stupid question, but shouldn't this be covered under warranty? If so, can they get away with treating and painting it like you guys have or do they need to replace the parts?

 

Good question but it sounds like they do not care. They obviously know about it. How much can keeping the axle clean and then painting/coating it really add to the cost of the car?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been following this topic to see if I can come up with some good answers. I see a bunch but I have a question. One of the worse photos I saw showed a completely rusted rear axle. The diff cover stood out because it was painted and everything else was rusted. So this led me to believe that the inside of the diff area and possibly the entire inside could be rusted as well. If that's the case, does anyone know how this can impact the lifetime of the axle? It would appear that cleaning the outside is only accomplishing a (desired) cosmetic fix. Should I be concerned beyond that? :lurk:

The interior of the axle is not a problem with all the thick gear oil sloshing around in there. I've opened up the pumpkin, looks clean in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The interior of the axle is not a problem with all the thick gear oil sloshing around in there. I've opened up the pumpkin, looks clean in there.

 

heres a pic of the unpainted area under the casr that i mentioned in my note

post-24281-1246193513_thumb.jpg

post-24281-1246193513_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no offense but who gives a shit

 

its under your car and no body sees it

 

unless you go to those import car shows where you place a mirror under a car

 

you need to tone down the colorful language

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When/if I get my car...I'll probably try to carefully remove them and save them at first - if that doesn't work, I'll just rip them off...like a band-aid! Right off! :lol:

That's what I thought at first, but they are not that easy to remove and even more difficult to salvage in their entirety. The axle looks better without the annoying stickers.

 

rust_on_axle.jpgRT_AXLE_PNTD.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's what I thought at first, but they are not that easy to remove and even more difficult to salvage in their entirety. The axle looks better without the annoying stickers.

 

Ah...no worries then. I saw all the stickers on the bottoms of some new mustangs while I was the dealership. Just as I was ordering my GT500 a shipment of GT's came in! Which the driver promptly parked the truck directly in back of my car so I was stuck at the dealership til he off loaded them all. Which was okay I guess. It gave me an opportunity to check out the 2010's from the bottom - up, literally. I also asked the driver if he was hauling any GT500's. He said that he had been..and there are some special requirements for transporting the GT500's over the regular mustangs.

 

Nice Seinfeld reference!

 

LOL! Yes, indeed!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great pics of the rusty butt. I will have to have mine taken care of once I receive it, whenever that may be.

 

It is either Osfo or Ospho and it is an acid that attacks rust. After chipping the rust off of steel and getting it down to bare metal you would then treat the surface with Ospho prior to priming and painting. I used to use this onboard ships to control rust prior to painting. Sorry to hear you got some in your eyes it is nasty stuff.

 

Regards,

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great pics of the rusty butt. I will have to have mine taken care of once I receive it, whenever that may be.

 

It is either Osfo or Ospho and it is an acid that attacks rust. After chipping the rust off of steel and getting it down to bare metal you would then treat the surface with Ospho prior to priming and painting. I used to use this onboard ships to control rust prior to painting. Sorry to hear you got some in your eyes it is nasty stuff.

 

Regards,

Jim

[/quotJim do you know what kind of acid it is?I washed my eye out within a minute,but it still is bothering me a bit.Thanks for the input--hope you get your car soon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

heres a pic of the unpainted area under the casr that i mentioned in my note

 

Man thats a mess , A new car should not look like that I don`t care if its the underneath it should have been painted..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

do you know what kind of acid it is?I washed my eye out within a minute,but it still is bothering me a bit.Thanks for the input--hope you get your car soon

To all who tackle this job, please wear eye protection, protect your hands from these chemicals and adhere to the warning label.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To all who tackle this job, please wear eye protection, protect your hands from these chemicals and adhere to the warning label.

 

Amen--i had gloves on since i was intiending to spray.But my buddy,who's a pilot said no use this stuff,just brush it on.When i brushed the top of the tubes, the brush threw out a drop in my eye.SO I AGREE EVERYONE,WERA GOGGLES ANDGLOVES

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks to the heads up from this forum,i met with a new best friedn today who has a lift in his basement.So we put my new baby on the lift and went about putting rust inhibitor on the rear,and also took off the scrapings on the front wheels.My car was just built 6/3, but thanks to the forum i could see on inspection that it was starting.so,just like any cancer,an early start will stop the entropy(i love that word).The inhibitor takes 24 hrs to cure,so ill clear it next week,then post pics.Interesting too, Ford must have used a lift under the car during assembly, but before they spray painted some ind of reddish rust prventive on the "frame",and it left about a 10in long non-coated section on both sides.Ill clear that too.On the wheels,i just used a 3M green scouring pad and most of it came off. Underneath the car theres oodles of markings--i tried taking pic with phone,but not enought light.Ill use a real camera next week and post them.

 

Ok finished the project today,and already posted some exhaust pics, but Im attaching 7 from under the car--I know, I know its just under the car,but as Ive said here before, if the plan is to keep the car low mileage, when you do sell it, a clean undercarriage is a big help in pricing.Also taped over all the labels and color markings with clear tape as well--hope this helps someone

 

 

posted new pics here on the results of my rusty rear project--see my original post above

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks great TORCHED10, do you plan to paint now? I am sure if I ever get my car I will have to do the same.

 

no--Ive used the Clear Enamel beofre on my gTO, and if you kill the rust first,it'll stay.Dont know how it would hold up if it saw alot of driving and rain--but its pretty easy to put on.I like the OEM look it gives you,but a gloss black enamel would look fine too

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...
...