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How often do you Wax \ Polish?


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Hi Guys,

 

How often do you guys polish\wax your cars? I have an 09 and I just washed with Microfiber Wash mit and Turtle Ice Car Wash. Looks Nice. I still looks new and looks like it still retained the first coat of wax that the dealer put on about a few weeks ago. I was wondering if I should polish it? I Did buy the McGuires Smooth Surface Clay Kit but I didn't clay it. I don't think i need to because the surface is still smooth...

 

Just trying to get some ideas on how often you polish \ Wax your cars ...

 

Thanks

Greg

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Every 4 months for me. Mine is garaged kept though. If it's in the elements I would do it more. If your factory finsh still looks good I would leave it alone and not clay bar it. If you polish you have to re-wax or seal the finish.

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I as well have an 09 and my dealer said they waxed the car when I picked it up. But when I got home I felt the finish and it was just like sand paper. To me I would go ahead and do the clay bar you will be amazed at how much crap will come off!! Then look into meguiars 3 step deep crystal system it works great. I would use the Ice underhood as there are lots of hoses and plastic and it does not leave a visible residue. Just make sure you keep the Meguiars away from the plastic as it does leave the white residue. And it is a pain in the ass to clean it off with a toothbrush. LOL. I posted all about it when I used the Meguiars products on my car. Though I posted it as Meguiars Liquid Crystal. Find that and look at the pics you may like what you see. JMO. Hope it helps

 

Jimmy

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If your car is garaged as much as mine is (less than 4K miles in 2 years), I wouldn't wax more than once / year. I don't, and mine looks great!

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If you keep your car under cover and don't expose it to the elements as a daily driver there should be no need for abrasives in your wax or clay bars. any polish that has abrasives wears your clear coat, not a big deal now and then but for the way most of us treat these cars and if you wax as often as I do all you're doing is wearing your paint off with cleaner wax .

 

I have a couple show cars and I've tried a jillion waxes, my favorite if I need to have a little cleaning or for cutting light swirl marks out is Zymoil, if I just want to shine it up I use Turtle Wax Platinum, it is non abrasive, goes on and off easy and leaves NO white residue. one other thing I might say that I wish I'd learned long ago is after you wax if you go back over the car with a clean damp towel it will keep your car from being a dust magnet after waxing, that used to drive me nuts.

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I've never used a polish on the Shelby. I used a clay bar after bringing the car home and it had a lot of crap on the clearcoat that you could not see or feel, especially the stripes. I wax the car every other month.

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I detail as a side business from my actual job because I basically love it so I probably am more anal about paint than most.

 

Basically if I run my hand along the car after a wash and it doesn't feel slick as glass I will clay bar it.

 

I have two "garage queens" one is my GT500 and the other is my '91 Mustang GT. I usually wax them every couple months. But it depends on how often they are driven really.

 

My daily driver is my '06 Mustang so it sees all the elements (save for snow... I live in TX) I wash the '06 once a week at least. And I wax it generally once a month at the VERY least... but usually more like every two weeks.

 

The wash I use is "Optimum No Rinse" which allows me to wash a car very quickly (you learn some of these things after a few hundred details ;) ).

 

My current favorite wax is Clearkote's Carnuba Moose. It's the nicest wax I've used in a LONG time and I've probably used about 100 or so waxes.

 

It does not stain trim. In fact I would recommend that you NOT use a wax or sealant that stains trim. For one thing there are literally 100 waxes you could use that don't stain, and for another once it stains... your trim is done. Yeah you can try and clean it up a bit, but it will never be the same... so why risk it?

 

Also "s code mach" wrote about "abrasives." There are no abrasives per se in any wax or sealant. If it is a "cleaner-wax" (which will often be listed on the product) it will have a chemical cleaner and not an actual abrasive.

 

Clay bars are also not abrasive... unless of course you use them improperly... i.e. drop the clay on the ground and try to use it again-- don't do that ;) ... or you don't use enough lubrication while claying the car.

 

What they are is very sticky. That's how they are able to "pull" contaminants from your paint. Just follow the instructions on the box and you should be fine.

 

You also should absolutely not be wearing any paint off of your car with a cleaner-wax. If you are then you need to use different applicators ;)

 

It is true that every time you touch the paint on your car, be it washing, waxing, claying, you are introducing the potential to "mar" the paint. But as long as you use clean micro fibers and applicators and use a two-bucket method for washing, you'll greatly minimize any negative impact on the paint.

 

As for "polishing" the paint. Now this is where you get into "abrasives." A true car polish does indeed have abrasives but depending on what kind of product it is, it can have more or less... just depends. They are designed to be used, generally, with a machine like a porter cable or a rotary to either correct imperfections on the paint (marring) or to simply bring more shine, depth, or clarity to the paint.

 

If you guys are interested, I was thinking of posting something about detailing on my blog. Let me know if you have any requests :)

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You have some good information there, yet while I'm far from an expert but I do know there are abrasives in the form of a polishing agent in most cleaner waxes, Zymol and Meguiar's cleaner waxes say right on them they have a polish to remove oxidation and swirl marks. you don't remove oxidation or remove swirls with chemicals, it takes a polishing abrasive.

 

It's a very fine abrasive nothing like a heavy cut buffing compound but it's still there, if you don't need it I don't see any reason to use it .

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Hey, Shadow, I have a Torch Red 07 GT500 and have used nothing but Meguiars since it was new.

 

Yes, it is a garage queen and does not sit outside at all. (Only on rare occasions)

 

I use Meguiars clay once a year, then I use Professional Show Car Glaze #7, which is a pure polish, and then I finish off with Professional HI-TECH Yellow wax #26.

 

Man does the car shine. I have absolutely ZERO swirl marks and the reflection is second to none.

 

If I want to take all the wax off and re-clay and do the process all over again, I will use Meguiars Deep Crystal system Paint Cleaner.

 

I use the Meguiars 3 step system on my daily driver with NXT 2.0 Tech Wax because it sits outside most of the time and it will hold up better (longer) under harsh conditions.

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You have some good information there, yet while I'm far from an expert but I do know there are abrasives in the form of a polishing agent in most cleaner waxes, Zymol and Meguiar's cleaner waxes say right on them they have a polish to remove oxidation and swirl marks. you don't remove oxidation or remove swirls with chemicals, it takes a polishing abrasive.

 

It's a very fine abrasive nothing like a heavy cut buffing compound but it's still there, if you don't need it I don't see any reason to use it .

 

You are absolutely right, there are some products that have a very mild abrasive in them that are billed as a "cleaner-wax." Generally speaking though most of them use a chemical compound to remove oxidation... as for the swirl marks they are probably "filling" them and not removing them.

 

To actually remove swirl marks from a finish you will generally need a true polish or compound in conjunction with a machine like a porter cable or rotary.

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If your car is garaged as much as mine is (less than 4K miles in 2 years), I wouldn't wax more than once / year. I don't, and mine looks great!

 

+1

 

I've had mine for 14 months now. It is garage kept, has about 3K miles on it (I have a company car too, so this one is just for FUN TIMES :drool: ). I put 3 coats of Zanio Z2/Z6, then a top coat of Z8 on 14 months ago, and just washing it with a quality, gentle, car was does the trick for me.

 

With the weather getting warmer, it is about time for me to do it all over again. Took me 2 full days last time with the humidity so high here, and I did not clay bar the first time and I can feel those little bumps.

 

A car detailer I know told me the best way to feel the little bumps, and lack of them after you clay bar, is to use the plastic that a pack of cigarettes comes in, and GENTLY wipe it across the car. Before a clay-bar, you will feel bumps, even on a finish that shines like glass. After, smooth as a baby's bottom!

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. I have absolutely ZERO swirl marks and the reflection is second to none.

 

 

Question: If you have swirl marks, does the polish remove them or do they stay on and can't be removed without paint treatment?

 

I am trying to avoid Swirly marks on mine. I used some microfiber towels this weekend to dry after a good hand wash and noticed some in the sun.

 

Thanks

Greg

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Question: If you have swirl marks, does the polish remove them or do they stay on and can't be removed without paint treatment?

 

I am trying to avoid Swirly marks on mine. I used some microfiber towels this weekend to dry after a good hand wash and noticed some in the sun.

 

Thanks

Greg

I wax my car eveytime I replace the clutch- it keeps me busy
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Question: If you have swirl marks, does the polish remove them or do they stay on and can't be removed without paint treatment?

 

I am trying to avoid Swirly marks on mine. I used some microfiber towels this weekend to dry after a good hand wash and noticed some in the sun.

 

Thanks

Greg

 

If you have a black car swirl marks are more evident than on any other color.

 

The best way to avoid swirl marks is to use a good washing technique with a two-bucket system.

 

Make sure your wash mitt is clean as well, and make sure your microfiber cloths are clean.

 

A glaze can "fill" in the swirls somewhat which will avoid the need for an actual correction with a compound/polish.

 

The glaze lifespan will just depend on the car's environment. When you see the swirls again then you can use the glaze again if you choose.

 

But the best thing is to have a good washing technique and try to avoid the swirls as much as you can in the first place.

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I just picked up my red 09 today!! WOO HOO!!

 

I am off to wash it, then I was gonna hit it with the three step mothers wax... I have always used mothers but it does leave that residue on plastic... I was just going to mask the plastic off to be on the safe side...

 

But, is there a better wax I could or should be using?

 

 

Off to the car wash!!

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I just picked up my red 09 today!! WOO HOO!!

 

I am off to wash it, then I was gonna hit it with the three step mothers wax... I have always used mothers but it does leave that residue on plastic... I was just going to mask the plastic off to be on the safe side...

 

But, is there a better wax I could or should be using?

 

 

Off to the car wash!!

 

I wouldn't use anything that stains trim if I were you. There are just too many products to choose from that won't stain.

 

My favorite wax right now is Clearkote's Carnuba Moose.

 

I've heard good things about Meguiar's NXT but I haven't tried it myself.

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I wouldn't use anything that stains trim if I were you. There are just too many products to choose from that won't stain.

 

My favorite wax right now is Clearkote's Carnuba Moose.

 

I've heard good things about Meguiar's NXT but I haven't tried it myself.

 

 

Thanks for the tip, I am going to see if that stuff is avail up here in canada...

 

 

What do you use to take out any minor imperfections before final waxing? I am surprized how many are in a new pain job...

 

 

 

What about interior detailing? Currently I use the Meguires interior detail spray and Mothers leather cleaner and conditioner on my other car.... This stuff ok for the Shelby??

 

 

 

Sorry if some of my questions are goofy, but I want to yake the best care of her that I possibly can!!

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Thanks for the tip, I am going to see if that stuff is avail up here in canada...

 

 

What do you use to take out any minor imperfections before final waxing? I am surprized how many are in a new pain job...

 

 

 

What about interior detailing? Currently I use the Meguires interior detail spray and Mothers leather cleaner and conditioner on my other car.... This stuff ok for the Shelby??

 

 

 

Sorry if some of my questions are goofy, but I want to yake the best care of her that I possibly can!!

 

If you want to actually remove any imperfections you will need to use a polish / compound in conjunction with a machine like the Porter Cable 7424 or a rotary.

 

I use both the Porter Cable and Rotary depending on the job. I usually use Optimum Polish and Optimum Compound when using these machines.

 

If you don't have a machine and want to use one then you can pick up both the PC and the Rotary online at several different places. There are also some Meguiar's YouTube vids that are a nice intro into how to use both a PC and a Rotary.

 

If you're interested I can post them up.

 

But if you aren't interested in all the machine, polishing stuff you can always use a glaze before you wax to "fill" those imperfections.

 

Meguiar's has something called "#7 Show Car Glaze" that you can get at most auto stores and it does a pretty good job.

 

If you are ordering the Clearkote though, I would suggest either the Red Machine Glaze (if you are using a PC) or the Vanilla Moose Hand Glaze... here's a link:

Clearkote Hand Glaze

 

The interior stuff you have is just fine. For the seats the main thing you want to do is keep them clean. All you need for that is a bottle sprayer (pick one up at a hardware store or the like) and fill it with water. Spritz the seats and use a clean cloth and wipe them down.

 

I usually wipe my seats down every time I wash the car. The sweat and dirt that you transfer to the seats is the biggest culprit. Most people think it's the sun (which can be true for verts) but mostly it's the dirt and sweat that gets ground into the seat time after time.

 

I use a product called "Leather Masters." They have a whole line of leather care products. I have the cleaner, and leather protection cream. They have a product called "Vital" that helps to "recondition" leather, but that's for leather that's already in bad shape and I haven't used it so I can't attest to its performance.

 

Just make sure with any protective product you put on your seats that you wipe them down so that they are dry to the touch. A lot of people make the mistake of putting WAAAY to much "protectant" on their seat and really all they are doing is adding a sticky layer to further trap dirt and sweat ;)

 

And none of your questions were goofy :) I'm happy to help!

 

P.S.

There IS a way to perhaps remove imperfections by hand... although it would be very tiring and it probably wouldn't be practical to use for a whole car... BUT Meguiar's Scratch-X is quite good by hand to remove spot imperfections.... I'm not sure so much if it is removing or filling, but either way it does work nicely if you have a particular spot that you want to try by hand.

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You know your detailing!! Thank you very much!! I do have a couple simonize random orbital polishers that I am comfortable using... It would probably be best to let a pro use a real porter cable on my car though... Lol, I don't need to be a hero I know my limits!!

 

I would really like to see those vids... Any tips are welcome here!!

 

 

Again, thank you I really appreciate all this!!

 

:thumbsup:

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You know your detailing!! Thank you very much!! I do have a couple simonize random orbital polishers that I am comfortable using... It would probably be best to let a pro use a real porter cable on my car though... Lol, I don't need to be a hero I know my limits!!

 

I would really like to see those vids... Any tips are welcome here!!

 

 

Again, thank you I really appreciate all this!!

 

:thumbsup:

 

Sure man happy to help :)

 

Here's a good video of using the porter cable

 

 

and here's the Meguiar's... the title says "wet sanding" and they are showing that, but they talk about the rotary as well.

 

 

I would say using a PC isn't too tough really if you are interested in it... just depends on if you want to DIY or no :)

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I detail as a side business from my actual job because I basically love it so I probably am more anal about paint than most.

 

Basically if I run my hand along the car after a wash and it doesn't feel slick as glass I will clay bar it.

 

I have two "garage queens" one is my GT500 and the other is my '91 Mustang GT. I usually wax them every couple months. But it depends on how often they are driven really.

 

My daily driver is my '06 Mustang so it sees all the elements (save for snow... I live in TX) I wash the '06 once a week at least. And I wax it generally once a month at the VERY least... but usually more like every two weeks.

 

The wash I use is "Optimum No Rinse" which allows me to wash a car very quickly (you learn some of these things after a few hundred details ;) ).

 

My current favorite wax is Clearkote's Carnuba Moose. It's the nicest wax I've used in a LONG time and I've probably used about 100 or so waxes.

 

It does not stain trim. In fact I would recommend that you NOT use a wax or sealant that stains trim. For one thing there are literally 100 waxes you could use that don't stain, and for another once it stains... your trim is done. Yeah you can try and clean it up a bit, but it will never be the same... so why risk it?

 

Also "s code mach" wrote about "abrasives." There are no abrasives per se in any wax or sealant. If it is a "cleaner-wax" (which will often be listed on the product) it will have a chemical cleaner and not an actual abrasive.

 

Clay bars are also not abrasive... unless of course you use them improperly... i.e. drop the clay on the ground and try to use it again-- don't do that ;) ... or you don't use enough lubrication while claying the car.

 

What they are is very sticky. That's how they are able to "pull" contaminants from your paint. Just follow the instructions on the box and you should be fine.

 

You also should absolutely not be wearing any paint off of your car with a cleaner-wax. If you are then you need to use different applicators ;)

 

It is true that every time you touch the paint on your car, be it washing, waxing, claying, you are introducing the potential to "mar" the paint. But as long as you use clean micro fibers and applicators and use a two-bucket method for washing, you'll greatly minimize any negative impact on the paint.

 

As for "polishing" the paint. Now this is where you get into "abrasives." A true car polish does indeed have abrasives but depending on what kind of product it is, it can have more or less... just depends. They are designed to be used, generally, with a machine like a porter cable or a rotary to either correct imperfections on the paint (marring) or to simply bring more shine, depth, or clarity to the paint.

 

If you guys are interested, I was thinking of posting something about detailing on my blog. Let me know if you have any requests :)

 

Is the Moose wax a clear liquid like the ICE product? I used the liquid ICE and I guess I applied too much in a couple of areas and it was a devil getting it to wipe off.

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Is the Moose wax a clear liquid like the ICE product? I used the liquid ICE and I guess I applied too much in a couple of areas and it was a devil getting it to wipe off.

 

No it's not really clear, looks kind of yellow / tan.

 

One of the really nice things about the Moose Wax is it's very easy to take off ;)

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You guys should try Adam's polishes.

A friend of mine turned me onto it back in February. They have a full line of products including detail spray, clay bar and now a new carnuba wax.

Great products that you can use in the sun if you had to.

I won't use anything else.

Just my .02 worth.

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