regalt87 Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 I am doing a Super Snake hood for a friend of mine and I thought I would include the paint prep and paint step by step for any one who is interested. Impression of the hood is that it is a quality piece. Much better than other fiberglass hoods that I have done over the years. I do not know what kind of primer Shelby used but guessing by the way it sanded it was similar to a catalyzed high build possibly a epoxy. They were generous with the amount or primer also. There were 2 little cracks in the front that I ground out and added resin. This is not unusual to see as this happens sometimes during shipping. This has to be repaired as the paint will not fill and seal them. The first step was to rough fit the hood. The after market hood hinges (I believe they were Shelby) spaced the hood too far up on one side to use. we went back to the factory hinges as I believe Shelby does any way. I had to repair a slight imperfection at the corner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 The crack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 The crack with resin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Slight imperfection that I used a small amount of bondo and block sanded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Ready to prime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 I use the NCP primer. It is about $300.00 per gallon including the catylist. The reason I use this is that it sands well wet or dry and minimizes shrinkage unlike others that can lift scratches a couple months later. It is not a sealer but seems to work about the same. I only sprayed the trouble spots as the rest of the hood had an adequate amount of primer that blocked with 320 grit very well. I never apply paint over 320 grit as it is too course. later I will apply a sealer over the entire hood and sand that with 400 grit. I recommend 500 for single stage paints. The top side of this hood will be base clear which has quite a bit of millage and is fine when 3 coats are applied. The under side of this hood will be single stage as it will get some air brush customization and then a clear coat. I am sorry but the owner has requested that I do not disclose more about this until it is done. But I will and you will love it, it's really neat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 The next step is to give it a slight coat of cheap lacquer based primer that I use as a guide coat. The purpose of this is when you block sand the dark red primer stays in the low spot or scratch. It allows you to work that spot a little harder. Almost all of this sands off. This step is a very important easy procedure that makes your block sanding show quality. This is also a easy procedure that you can do with aerosol primers at home although I do not recommend them for any thing other than a light coat to be used as a sanding guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 I will include more pics and progress later as I have to go look at a friends daughters car. The girl ran into the back of her mom. This is her second crash in less than two years. I also have a different friends mom coming in next week. Last year I repaired the back quarter panel and now it's time for a left front fender and bumper. I love repeat customers. I will post tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard m.switzer Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 I will include more pics and progress later as I have to go look at a friends daughters car. The girl ran into the back of her mom. This is her second crash in less than two years. I also have a different friends mom coming in next week. Last year I repaired the back quarter panel and now it's time for a left front fender. I love repeat customers. I will post tomorrow. looks good ,,can't wait to see more thanks for sharing,,PLEASE let us all know how it comes out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006GT500 Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 It's amazing the difference in that hood and the one I received a year ago. That hood is way better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 The underside of the hood was sanded with 320 and will be coated with epoxy sealer for a base color and sealer which will hold back most of the scratches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 The importance of a oil- water separator can not be overemphasized. Years ago I did a high dollar job and got moisture between the sealer and paint. The sealer did what it was supposed to do, it sealed it in. After the clear was sanded and 3 stage buffed (about 3 days) and sat out in the sun the moisture expanded into little dust size bumps. I had to strip the entire car down to the sealer (where I found the moisture) and repaint it all over again. (about another week) As you can imagine that job was not profitable and this was very frustrating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 The epoxy 2 coats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 The paint I like to use is the PPG Deltron series. I have some very long lasting jobs out there that have held up very well. Some of your cheaper clear coats only have a 3-6 year life span. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Three coats single stage for the underside. It came out great, only a couple specs of dust that after the job leaves I won't be able to see from my house. It has to sit a couple of days and kick so that I can flip it and do the top side. By the way sanding, sealing and painting the vents were a pain in the butt. Back in a couple days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhj775 Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Three coats single stage for the underside. It came out great, only a couple specs of dust that after the job leaves I won't be able to see from my house. It has to sit a couple of days and kick so that I can flip it and do the top side. By the way sanding, sealing and painting the vents were a pain in the butt. Back in a couple days. Hey Scott give me a call when your ready to put the hood on the car. That way you'll have another pair of hands to make sure nothing gets scraped!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfarmdog Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Three coats single stage for the underside. It came out great, only a couple specs of dust that after the job leaves I won't be able to see from my house. It has to sit a couple of days and kick so that I can flip it and do the top side. By the way sanding, sealing and painting the vents were a pain in the butt. Back in a couple days. I thought the SS vents came painted flat black and ready to install? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 No they did not. They were bare aluminum and a real bummer to sand and prep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Hey Scott give me a call when your ready to put the hood on the car. That way you'll have another pair of hands to make sure nothing gets scraped!!Yes I will call you and you can bring a case of Mick ultra and we can turn it in to a party!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfarmdog Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 No they did not. They were bare aluminum and a real bummer to sand and prep. I believe they are now offering them ready to install at SPP. They did not have a pic but that is what the descrition said stating "new and improved" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexandros Posted May 22, 2009 Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 :happy feet: Thanks for the info it is good to know.... :happy feet: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 I believe they are now offering them ready to install at SPP. They did not have a pic but that is what the descrition said stating "new and improved"That would have been nice as trying to sand every inch of this was a bear. I thought of using a self etching primer which probably would have been fine. But I know that sanding it my self I was sure it got etched. I don't know when exactly they started painting these but I believe this hood was ordered several months ago. The hood has sat for several days so I can tape the bottom and flip it and not worry about scoring the underside of it and paint the top tomorrow. I will post more pics when it's done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDFXDWG2005 Posted May 24, 2009 Report Share Posted May 24, 2009 Thanks Regal for your hard work, I am the owner of the hood and the car it will go on, also adding lots uder the hood, will keep everyone up to date. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hisssss Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 Cool thread Regal, thanks for all the info and pics. I took my bare aluminum louvers and had them powder coated, I will post pics when I get them back. Keep up the great work, looks super. H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfarmdog Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 Cool thread Regal, thanks for all the info and pics. I took my bare aluminum louvers and had them powder coated, I will post pics when I get them back. Keep up the great work, looks super. H. That is a great idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDFXDWG2005 Posted May 25, 2009 Report Share Posted May 25, 2009 Cool thread Regal, thanks for all the info and pics. I took my bare aluminum louvers and had them powder coated, I will post pics when I get them back. Keep up the great work, looks super. H. I LOVE your comments at bottom Smashing almost anything on the street....... Priceless SOOOOOOOOOO true Pics attached of next move Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 The under side must be taped as to not get over spray on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 2 coats of PPG Epoxy sealer. Gave it a nice base and helps seal down sanding scratches. Also can prevent chemical reactions between other paints or primers that were already on the hood. This can be sanded if necessary and top coated months later if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 Thats about $400.00 worth of materials. The PPG 2020 clear is much better than cheaper clears such as Omni. I have some well cared for jobs out there that have lasted 10 years. The Omni clear only last about 4-5 year here in Florida. I used a slow reducer as to get a good flow rate. Fish eye additive is also a must. Many shops don't even allow silicone products in the building. Proper pre- cleaning with a wax and grease remover prior to painting could save you lots of money and time later from having to re-do a job with fisheyes all over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regalt87 Posted May 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2009 2 coats of epoxy sealer, 2 coats of base color and 3 coats of clear. about 6 hours of painting and waiting and painting and waiting... It is hard not to get in a hurry. Flash time in between coats will allow reducer to evaporate and prevent solvent pops.(tiny needle looking dots that are left in the clear where solvents escaped through materials from a top coat that kicked before the bottom coats finished evaporating) These can be sanded out usually. I did get a sag along the hood scoop, ARRRRRRGGGGG. To make it slick you have to get it wet enough not to have orange peel but you are at the edge of getting runs. I wanted good flow and I got it. Too good. Now I will carefully block the sag out tomorrow with first 1000 grit and followed by 2500. This added 3 hours to the job. Had I used a faster reducer and just anticipated sanding the peel out it would have taken 1 hour. Also there is a huge risk of splitting through in to the base coat and then it's re paint time, nothing you can do about it when that happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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