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Opinion on lowering the rear only.


HGFairhurst

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Just a thought I had and wondered what some of you might think of the idea. When you look at 65-68 fast back cars, they always have that "hunkered down" look in the back with the nose pointing upwards.

 

67gt500.jpg

 

65%20Archive3.jpg

 

 

As opposed to the way a new Shelby looks

 

LeftRear.jpg

 

2007_Ford_Shelby_Mustang_GT-500_f3q.JPG

 

I have not seen a lowered 07-09 GT500 in person, but I understand most kits drop the car about an inch. It would seem to me the rear of the car would continue to look higher then the front. If just the back of the car was lowered, I think this would help with weight transfer from front to back to help the car get better traction for the drags too.

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I use the H&R rear springs on the rear of GT500's. Put them on my two and 10+ customers GT500's...gives it the perfect level look. They are around $150 for the pair. If you can't find them, PM me and I can order a pair for you.

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I use the H&R rear springs on the rear of GT500's. Put them on my two and 10+ customers GT500's...gives it the perfect level look. They are around $150 for the pair. If you can't find them, PM me and I can order a pair for you.

 

 

I lowered just the rear end of my car. I like it that way.

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I use the H&R rear springs on the rear of GT500's. Put them on my two and 10+ customers GT500's...gives it the perfect level look. They are around $150 for the pair. If you can't find them, PM me and I can order a pair for you.

 

Any pictures of before & after? Thanks

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Here's a link of my car going down the street in front of my shop. I have the 20" Shelby Alcoas 20X9 front with Nitto Invo 25535ZR20, 20X10 rear with Nitto Invo 29535ZR20. I have Steeda uppers and lowers, and the Maximum Motorsports adjustible panhard bar. No rubbing or issues. H&R rear springs, stock fronts.

 

 

My GT500

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Nothing puts a bigger smile on my face than when I see there are others that think like me. HG, you've brought up exactly what I've been thinking for some time. I recently put some 285's on the front of my '09 to replace the 255's. And while I'd like to upgrade to the FRPP handling pack, I'm not so sure I want to lower the front anymore, as the 285's bulge out just a hair more than the stockers did. The rear is a different story. It is simply too high from the factory. I considered purchasing a air of take off rear springs from Belinda at Buyfordracing (I think she wants $25 for the pair) from KR conversions that were done. My plan, to get the rear down ~3/4" to 1", entails cutting approximately 1/2 a coil off. Spring rate increase should be about null. I'm just not sure about pigtail orientation and if would work. I'm looking into it.

 

Links to see what I did here and here.

 

I'm not looking for the 'in the weeds' look, just less rake, a bit more symmetry and some matching concentricity.

I really like the gap up front with the 285's and just want the back to match.

 

I'm all ears for a simple and cost effective solution.

 

Tob

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Nothing puts a bigger smile on my face than when I see there are others that think like me. HG, you've brought up exactly what I've been thinking for some time. I recently put some 285's on the front of my '09 to replace the 255's. And while I'd like to upgrade to the FRPP handling pack, I'm not so sure I want to lower the front anymore, as the 285's bulge out just a hair more than the stockers did. The rear is a different story. It is simply too high from the factory. I considered purchasing a air of take off rear springs from Belinda at Buyfordracing (I think she wants $25 for the pair) from KR conversions that were done. My plan, to get the rear down ~3/4" to 1", entails cutting approximately 1/2 a coil off. Spring rate increase should be about null. I'm just not sure about pigtail orientation and if would work. I'm looking into it.

 

Links to see what I did here and here.

 

I'm not looking for the 'in the weeds' look, just less rake, a bit more symmetry and some matching concentricity.

I really like the gap up front with the 285's and just want the back to match.

 

I'm all ears for a simple and cost effective solution.

 

Tob

Tob,

 

Do you like the way the car drives with 285's in front? Looks pretty sweet.

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You referring to the video of my car Josh?? If so, thanks!! How the rear end in your car,,,still good??

 

Alex

 

 

Of course i am! The rear is good. Im findin out that the differnt tired size rides much different than stock. I thought it would be smoother but its rougher, at least till the tires get warm. But there is no squeek or shudder. Its great to have her back. What i do need to do is figure out how to recal my speedo with the sct 3. I am doin almost ten over what i think im doin. (mph) I almost got pulled over the other day by a statey until some moron in a dodge whipped by me right in fron t of the cop. THe cop pulled out, up next to me, gave me a thumbs up, and pulled hte dodge over. I was only doin 70 indicated but he was gunnin me and gettin ready to pull out when the dodge came out of nowhere. So ya. Not tryin for anymore of those.....As for the rear only lowering, after seein your car and talkin to yo alex, thats the way im goin when i finaly do it.

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Thanks for the comments Josh. Glad you didn't get a ticket. Yes some tires are rougher than others, and going from 18's to 20's does make these cars harsher. For Road Racing I am using some 18's with road race tires, another set for drag racing, then the 20's for street driving. Luckily the drag tires I have work on many of my other Mustangs too. I see no need to lower the front too, other than for looks as my car is basically a daily driver and I don't want to constantly be worrying about bottoming out my longtubes, or the carbon fiber splitter!! My suspension set-up may not be ideal for a car used mostly for road racing, but it does hold it own and is well balanced.

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[qoute]Do you like the way the car drives with 285's in front? Looks pretty sweet.

 

Dub, the car hasn't been driven since the day I paid for it and hurried to get it home to beat the snow/salt trucks. I'm guilty of changing quite a few things before I got a chance to really need to. The car has 10 or so miles on it.

 

I'll be paying close attention to any tramlining (however minor) when I do get the car out (soon!). Clearance wise at full lock appears to be fine, and with the stock front ride height I don't foresee a rubbing issue. My goal is to lower the rear slightly, and firm up the suspension a bit. I have two fox mustangs that I equipped with Maximum Motorsports torque arms, panhard bars (you can see the back end of my '90 coupe in some of those shots in the links), etc, and I'd like to emulate that feel with the 500.

 

I readily admit, the 285's on the front give the car a much nastier presence. I didn't like the rounded profile the 255's offer, hence they now reside in a dark corner of my basement where they belong. I suspect the chassis and suspension engineers wanted the 285's up front but corporate shot it down (255's offered reduced rolling resistance, lower cost, possibly quicker steering 'feel', etc). Corporate also has requirements about understeer/oversteer and I believe the 255's allowed the already heavy front end to 'push' even more.

 

BTW, the as installed on the rim weight of the 285 was about 4 lbs more than the 255 IIRC. Two piece front rotors are definitely in my future.

 

Tob

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Well the damn big tires might have not gottne me the otehr day but today they definitly did. I was doin 55 he clocked me at 68! I was like seriously i couldnt be that off! He gave me a front plate ticket and was cool about it but for the love of god can some one please tell me how to reprogram my speedonmeter!?!?!?!?!

 

Al,

I went from a 285/40/18 to a 305/45/18. How can that affect my speed so much and ride? I mean its not htat big of a difference?

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Well the damn big tires might have not gottne me the otehr day but today they definitly did. I was doin 55 he clocked me at 68! I was like seriously i couldnt be that off! He gave me a front plate ticket and was cool about it but for the love of god can some one please tell me how to reprogram my speedonmeter!?!?!?!?!

 

Al,

I went from a 285/40/18 to a 305/45/18. How can that affect my speed so much and ride? I mean its not htat big of a difference?

 

Here, try this one out....

 

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

 

It says that when you are doing 60 MPH on the old tires, you will actually be going 64.1 MPH. I think he was blowing smoke.

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[qoute]Do you like the way the car drives with 285's in front? Looks pretty sweet.

 

Dub, the car hasn't been driven since the day I paid for it and hurried to get it home to beat the snow/salt trucks. I'm guilty of changing quite a few things before I got a chance to really need to. The car has 10 or so miles on it.

 

I'll be paying close attention to any tramlining (however minor) when I do get the car out (soon!). Clearance wise at full lock appears to be fine, and with the stock front ride height I don't foresee a rubbing issue. My goal is to lower the rear slightly, and firm up the suspension a bit. I have two fox mustangs that I equipped with Maximum Motorsports torque arms, panhard bars (you can see the back end of my '90 coupe in some of those shots in the links), etc, and I'd like to emulate that feel with the 500.

 

I readily admit, the 285's on the front give the car a much nastier presence. I didn't like the rounded profile the 255's offer, hence they now reside in a dark corner of my basement where they belong. I suspect the chassis and suspension engineers wanted the 285's up front but corporate shot it down (255's offered reduced rolling resistance, lower cost, possibly quicker steering 'feel', etc). Corporate also has requirements about understeer/oversteer and I believe the 255's allowed the already heavy front end to 'push' even more.

 

BTW, the as installed on the rim weight of the 285 was about 4 lbs more than the 255 IIRC. Two piece front rotors are definitely in my future.

 

Nice Tob. I love the appearance and look forward to your feedback on ride quality.

Tob

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Vapor,

 

I really like the exhaust note of your car. What exhaust do you have? Is there any drone between 2-3K rpm?

 

Thanks, FIA Mike

 

Hi FIA Mike,

 

I have Dynatech Racing longtubes, X-pipe with Hi flow cats, and custom made MAC mufflers. No drone at all inside car..I love the sound and tried 7 different catbacks, before doing my own..PM me for more info as I don't want to hijack this thread...

 

Alex

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Here's a link of my car going down the street in front of my shop. I have the 20" Shelby Alcoas 20X9 front with Nitto Invo 25535ZR20, 20X10 rear with Nitto Invo 29535ZR20. I have Steeda uppers and lowers, and the Maximum Motorsports adjustible panhard bar. No rubbing or issues. H&R rear springs, stock fronts.

 

 

 

Like the exhaust, what all do you have there?

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I was thinking the same with only changing the rear shocks to level out the car. Do we have any engineers out there or anyone who knows the spring rates, comparing stock to after market brands? I would think that you would want to keep spring rate similar from front to back. Dropping the back will definitely make the car look better, decrease dive in breaking (weight shift), and to some degree decrease the plowing effect in corners.

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I put the Eibach 185's on the rear with a Steeda UCA. The car sat 3/8 too low in the rear so I made a 3/8 thick plate and put it in on top of my spring and it sits perfict. I also added the Fays 2 Watts Link which made the car more predictable in hard corners and IMO gave it a better more stable feel and ride in general. Some will say the Watts link is not necessary (this is well debated on other threads) but I feel it was worth the money.

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I have some new Roush rear springs that I have not put on yet. Would love to see a photo from one of you who has lowered just the rear.

 

I did just that using the Roush springs only on the back while front remains stock. I have Steeda UCA and LCA See pic. I wanted the car to be horizontal and to limit the nose dive when braking hard, so that part is fine.

 

Ride is harsh on the back and a little smoother on the front however. It is not noticable during street or highway driving, but it is clearly noticable on bumps. I wonder how good this set up is on a track, will test this next Summer.

post-19594-1237202227_thumb.jpg

post-19594-1237202227_thumb.jpg

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