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Will a one piece 3.5'' DS eleminate...


gassman

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..the "clunk" we get whe we have After market LCA/UCA?? I am trying to decide on my next mod, one piece DS(dynotech) or a 2. 6 metco and Afco HE. I am sick of that "clunk" sound everytime I take off, or hit the gas in 2nd or 3rd. I'd almost do anything to get rid of it, but if the one piece DS does not then I'll get something more useful like a smaller pulley.

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..the "clunk" we get whe we have After market LCA/UCA?? I am trying to decide on my next mod, one piece DS(dynotech) or a 2. 6 metco and Afco HE. I am sick of that "clunk" sound everytime I take off, or hit the gas in 2nd or 3rd. I'd almost do anything to get rid of it, but if the one piece DS does not then I'll get something more useful like a smaller pulley.

 

No it won't.

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..the "clunk" we get whe we have After market LCA/UCA?? I am trying to decide on my next mod, one piece DS(dynotech) or a 2. 6 metco and Afco HE. I am sick of that "clunk" sound everytime I take off, or hit the gas in 2nd or 3rd. I'd almost do anything to get rid of it, but if the one piece DS does not then I'll get something more useful like a smaller pulley.

I don't have any kind of clunking with J & M control arms. I did have clunking with QA1 double adjustable shocks. The clunking drove me crazy, well crazier.

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I don't have any kind of clunking with J & M control arms. I did have clunking with QA1 double adjustable shocks. The clunking drove me crazy, well crazier.

 

 

I have J & M upper lower control arms and adj. panhard bar with the anti clunk bushings in there. I still have a small little clunk. Looked over everything and tightened everything up again and i still get a small clunk when coasting and the touching the gas peddle. I cant figure this out as everything seems perfect.

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I have J & M upper lower control arms and adj. panhard bar with the anti clunk bushings in there. I still have a small little clunk. Looked over everything and tightened everything up again and i still get a small clunk when coasting and the touching the gas peddle. I cant figure this out as everything seems perfect.

I have the same thing, not a huge clunk, just on touching the gas and sometimes in 2nd gear.

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There is a way to adjust out the "backlash" on those gears and teh clunk goes away.

 

I have the DSS one piece aluminum driveshaft from Lethal......very light, lots better than the oem piece.........if you are going to add power to your car, you should consider this mod, also add a drive shaft loop just for peace of mind.

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I have this same clunk as well. I am also using the J&M upper and lower control arms. The anti clunk bushings are being used and all is tight but I still hear something. I had this same type of issue with my 03 MACH 1. It ended up being too much play in the gears as they were set up from the factory. Once I installed 4.10's and set the gears on the very low end of the factory spec and got rid of the play, the sound went away. I believe the factory spec to be in the 8-12 range, correct me if I'm wrong. I like my gears to be tight and had it set around 8.5. I suspect the same will be true with the GT500.

 

My clunk charateristics are at very slow speeds and no tension on the drive line. It happens when I just tap the gas a bit. What really annoyed me and made me realize the actual problem was hearing it when I let the clutch out easy just to the point of grabbing and then releasing, then letting it out in the same fashion. This was not enough to cause a clunk from the upper control arm, but enough to load the driveline and make the noise. The 2 piece driveshaft is just part of it, more stuff to move around.

 

Bottom line...a one piece shaft and tighter gear tolerances should get rid of the noise. At least in my case anyway. Hope this helps.

 

Joe

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I relaced my BMR LCAs last night with stock and the clunk was less noticable or absent in the rear, also mild wheel hop returned. What I gather from this experiment is the the aftermarket suspension mods, LCAs/UCA and such, will accentuate the drive train noise from the trans back to the gears. I also agree that most of the clunking was from the gears through the mid section and less so in the rear. As we "tighten up" the crappy stock rear suspension the drive train will "react" with stress in other places like the 2 piece drive shaft. I agree with LuisA and DarkShadow. I am going to order the Dynotech 3.5'' for more than the reasons above and get back with you after installed.

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Yes you are correct. The more rigid you make things, the more it will act like a speaker and broadcast the noises to a more noticeable level. I also think that the anti clunk bushings play a part in transmitting the noise. Not because something is moving around right at the bushing itself, but the fact that there is more metal on metal contact with the anti clunk bushing and the upper control arm mount and the arm itself...which is of course connected directly to the rear diff, not to mention the body via the upper mount. I know I am stating the obvious, just trying to paint a clear picture for all that may read this. As usual, everything is a trade off when it comes to performance and handling. Once the gear backlash is made tighter it should go away for the most part. The one piece shaft should help as well.

 

Joe

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Every Mustang I have owned has had this slop or clunk noticed at lower rpms when you quickly get on and off the gas.

 

On my 99 Cobra, it went away completely when I installed Delrin bushings (cant remember the specifics though as that car is a far memory now)

 

I have not noticed it as much though as of late, I think I have just learned that you need to get the rpms up there before shocking the drive train with any sudden on and off throttle

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I have this same clunk as well. I am also using the J&M upper and lower control arms. The anti clunk bushings are being used and all is tight but I still hear something. I had this same type of issue with my 03 MACH 1. It ended up being too much play in the gears as they were set up from the factory. Once I installed 4.10's and set the gears on the very low end of the factory spec and got rid of the play, the sound went away. I believe the factory spec to be in the 8-12 range, correct me if I'm wrong. I like my gears to be tight and had it set around 8.5. I suspect the same will be true with the GT500.

 

My clunk charateristics are at very slow speeds and no tension on the drive line. It happens when I just tap the gas a bit. What really annoyed me and made me realize the actual problem was hearing it when I let the clutch out easy just to the point of grabbing and then releasing, then letting it out in the same fashion. This was not enough to cause a clunk from the upper control arm, but enough to load the driveline and make the noise. The 2 piece driveshaft is just part of it, more stuff to move around.

 

Bottom line...a one piece shaft and tighter gear tolerances should get rid of the noise. At least in my case anyway. Hope this helps.

 

Joe

listen everyone maybe i can be of some help!! i had the clunk as well it was driving me absuletly bunkers. I have the steeda adjustable uca and the steeda lca . Its all pinion angle . you have to have negative pinion ANGLE, (rear end pointing down) most of you guys with the clunk have adjustable uca , and have positive pinion angle. The clunk you hear is your pinion hitting the under body of your car. putting a bind on your drive shaft. correct this and you will see improved performance, because your drive shaft will be in a straight line to the tranny, and no more CLUNK. man that will drive you insane. hope i could help.
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listen everyone maybe i can be of some help!! i had the clunk as well it was driving me absuletly bunkers. I have the steeda adjustable uca and the steeda lca . Its all pinion angle . you have to have negative pinion ANGLE, (rear end pointing down) most of you guys with the clunk have adjustable uca , and have positive pinion angle. The clunk you hear is your pinion hitting the under body of your car. putting a bind on your drive shaft. correct this and you will see improved performance, because your drive shaft will be in a straight line to the tranny, and no more CLUNK. man that will drive you insane. hope i could help.

I really don't see how the pinion could be hitting the underside of the car. I didn't have this noise in stock form. The adjustable upper arm is set to the exact length as the stock arm. My car is not lowered either. Therefore there shouldn't be any issue as far as the pinion angle goes. Unless of course something was messed up on a lot of these cars from the factory. My buddy is a top notch Ford tech and all around gearhead. You would be hard pressed to find anyone better. We'll see what happens when we install the gears. I'll have him check the pinion angle as well just for good measure.

 

I'm not saying your scenario isn't the case with anyone elses car. I just don't believe it to be the problem with mine. Hopefully everyone gets it worked out. Thanks for the input. :)

 

Joe

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Do a search on pinion angle or Google it and you will find info about it. I have Steeda UCA and had Spherical LCA with Eibach 185 springs (lowered 1 inch) and had the clunk. Set pinion angle with susppension loaded at minus 3deg and put the stock LCA's back on and still have the clunk. (no wheel hop with this set up) I stood in a 50 foot mechanics trench while a buddy drove the car and I am convinced most of the clunk is my 2 piece drice shaft.

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Any clunking you have in the rear suspension is from improperly installed or defective control arms. I'm betting on install which will lead to failed bushings. You need to get this fixed and it has nothing to do with the driveshaft.

 

I have a 2007 GT500 with STEEDA adjustable UCA and their recomended lower UCA's speced out by Steeda. After install, I had a terrible clunk. This drove me nuts so I took the car to Steeda to have everything checked. They spent about three hours with the car and said everything was "PERFECT" including pinion angle. They said the noise comes from driveline slop which is inherent with the two piece drive shaft and is amplified by the much stouter urethane bushings they use. To resolve the problem they recomended a one piece drive shaft. From the horses mouth. I have read that UPR does not have these problems. Don't know but had my Steeda parts checked by Steeda and it sucks.

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I have a 2007 GT500 with STEEDA adjustable UCA and their recomended lower UCA's speced out by Steeda. After install, I had a terrible clunk. This drove me nuts so I took the car to Steeda to have everything checked. They spent about three hours with the car and said everything was "PERFECT" including pinion angle. They said the noise comes from driveline slop which is inherent with the two piece drive shaft and is amplified by the much stouter urethane bushings they use. To resolve the problem they recomended a one piece drive shaft. From the horses mouth. I have read that UPR does not have these problems. Don't know but had my Steeda parts checked by Steeda and it sucks.

 

 

You guys are killing me. I have read 75 different stories on the damn clunk. I have read that after lowering the car and adding the UCA that some guys still have the clunk, others don't, some changed the pinion angle and went away, some the drive shaft, and others just prayed. I can tell you now, if I bust my ass changing the springs and UCA and then it sounds like an AMC Pacer on bad gas, I'm going to P. Oed.

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You guys are killing me. I have read 75 different stories on the damn clunk. I have read that after lowering the car and adding the UCA that some guys still have the clunk, others don't, some changed the pinion angle and went away, some the drive shaft, and others just prayed. I can tell you now, if I bust my ass changing the springs and UCA and then it sounds like an AMC Pacer on bad gas, I'm going to P. Oed.

Goes with the territory my friend. Different scenarios can lead to a cause and/or cure of the same symptom when it comes to suspension gremlins. Some "fixes" only mask the problem and others truly do fix it. Tighten up the gear back lash and replace the driveshaft. If all is installed properly, the problem should be solved.

 

Joe

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  • 3 months later...
Do a search on pinion angle or Google it and you will find info about it. I have Steeda UCA and had Spherical LCA with Eibach 185 springs (lowered 1 inch) and had the clunk. Set pinion angle with susppension loaded at minus 3deg and put the stock LCA's back on and still have the clunk. (no wheel hop with this set up) I stood in a 50 foot mechanics trench while a buddy drove the car and I am convinced most of the clunk is my 2 piece drice shaft.

 

 

BINGO!! you are correct, installed the Dynatech DS last week and the clunk is totally gone.

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