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lift points


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I was wondering if anyone can let me know where they put the pads to lift a 08 Shelby, it is a conv, if that makes a difference. I am going to have the top up with the doors closed of course. The front frame rails are easy,but the rear, it looks like the only place is where the lower control arm pivots. Any comments? Also, any way to get to the archives for a particular topic. I tried, entering key words but no luck.

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Make sure you understand the lift points. It is very importand. Hope this helps.

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...ic=29264&hl=

 

Thank you for your reply, but I have a lift in my hobby shop that has 4 big pads, like at a dealership. I would not want to jack the whole care up at the points in above thread.--Jack

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Thank you for your reply, but I have a lift in my hobby shop that has 4 big pads, like at a dealership. I would not want to jack the whole care up at the points in above thread.--Jack

 

See the lift documents from Ford in this post:

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...st&p=470251

 

Click on this pic of my car to enlarge it and use thes points.

 

th_Shifterinstall020.jpg

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I guess that is where they do it. It seems to me that at least in the front the frame rails would be a lot stronger. You could put a piece of rubber between the lift and rail so it would not scratch. Almost every car that I lift has the spot on the outside bent up a bit. I appreciate the info, but what do you think of my logic?

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Thank you for your reply, but I have a lift in my hobby shop that has 4 big pads, like at a dealership. I would not want to jack the whole care up at the points in above thread.--Jack

 

 

Jack,

I have lifted my 07 SGT with 2 post lift in my home shop without any problems.

 

First time following my Ford dealer's recommendation:

Front pads where the subframe attaches to the unibody

Rear pads on the pivot of the rear control arm (very small point of bearing IMO)

You do have to be careful in positioning the pad to keep it clear of the control arm

 

Seemed to be fine. Very stable and no damage or issues.

 

Sometime later, I saw a couple of TS posts showing damage due to lifting at the above front point; however, it appears that the lifting pad may have been positoned to far toward the rear end of the subframe

 

Then using what I think is the same thread as Grabber referenced:

I used the pinch welds where you would normally position the OEM sissor jack.

Did have concerns about lifting with direct contact of the pads as mine are serated steel, so cut 1/2" high density plywood to same dimensions as the pads. Will say that it is very tight to the fascia side trim, but did work fine. Again, very stable and no damage or issues.

 

When our NW weather becomes more SGT friendly, I plan to drive to the dealer and have them go through the lift points again.

Lg

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Jack,

I have lifted my 07 SGT with 2 post lift in my home shop without any problems.

 

First time following my Ford dealer's recommendation:

Front pads where the subframe attaches to the unibody

Rear pads on the pivot of the rear control arm (very small point of bearing IMO)

You do have to be careful in positioning the pad to keep it clear of the control arm

 

Seemed to be fine. Very stable and no damage or issues.

 

Sometime later, I saw a couple of TS posts showing damage due to lifting at the above front point; however, it appears that the lifting pad may have been positoned to far toward the rear end of the subframe

 

Then using what I think is the same thread as Grabber referenced:

I used the pinch welds where you would normally position the OEM sissor jack.

Did have concerns about lifting with direct contact of the pads as mine are serated steel, so cut 1/2" high density plywood to same dimensions as the pads. Will say that it is very tight to the fascia side trim, but did work fine. Again, very stable and no damage or issues.

 

When our NW weather becomes more SGT friendly, I plan to drive to the dealer and have them go through the lift points again.

Lg

 

 

I live in Northern Ca, have been driving with the top down in a tee shirt! I see exactly what you are saying. IF you put the fronts on the back of the front subframe or got too far back on the inside frame rails, you could have a problem. I think after the discussion so far, with no reported damage to front or rear, I am inclined to use the recommended outside on the rear where there is no weight and the inside frame rails on the front. You have to be careful lifting a car with a heavy engine on the subframe, flat with a wood or rubber block is needed. I used to have some Hemi cars with real heavy engines and saw a lot of damage from not being careful.--Jack

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