2007_Shelby_GT Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 Excellent work Badger and Storm! Both look great, and aren't you proud!? One thing I can't believe: There is ANOTHER part to attach to the bezel then the hose attaches to that!? Man, who designed that? It would be simpler and cheaper to just clamp the hose directly to the extension off the back of the bezel! Oh, nevermind, silly me for thinking "inexpensive"! I think I'll go back to the hardware store and look into that "high temperature" dryer vent hose again! Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stormeaston Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 Did anybody figure out that deal on pulling the fuse for the relay that turns off your fogs when you put the brights on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NordicShelby Posted May 3, 2009 Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 :alien: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stormeaston Posted May 3, 2009 Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 I just tried pulling the fuse for the micro relay, when you do this it shuts off all the lights, so this will not work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 My lower driving lights are 1/4 full of water ALL of the time. I noticed it a couple of weeks ago after I washed the car. I just assumed that they'd drain out, but they haven't. I can't drive with them on, because the effect of the light bouncing off of the moving water is extremely noticeable and probably dangerous for oncoming traffic to have to deal with. What's the deal? What's the fix? Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 Did anybody figure out that deal on pulling the fuse for the relay that turns off your fogs when you put the brights on? I would do a search for this in the long-term Mustang GT forums around the internet. This has been a question since 2005 and as far as I know there is no "easy" solution and it's my understanding that any resulting change is illegal for use on highways and in many states. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Arrrrggghhhh! A rock has taken out the lens on one of my PIAA driving lights!! (I knew I should've rigged up a guard or something!) Anyone tried replacing the lens yet? I see several online vendors selling lenses for the 510 series, but some are listed as "510 SRM driving lights" while others say "510 series driving lights", does anyone have the correct PIAA part number? No parts list that I can find in the original box! Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 Found! http://www.eautoworks.com/product-PIAA-97724.htm (I will know for sure when it arrives!) Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 Found! http://www.eautoworks.com/product-PIAA-97724.htm (I will know for sure when it arrives!) Sam AKA: Good find something we may all need in the future. Did it work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted May 26, 2009 Report Share Posted May 26, 2009 Don't know yet, won't ship till 5/29! Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Couldn't wait, ordered a new set of lights, received them and replaced the broken light. Still waiting for that replacement lens... Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard m.switzer Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 Couldn't wait, ordered a new set of lights, received them and replaced the broken light. Still waiting for that replacement lens... Sam AKA: I got my lights today from SPP ,but did not get the upper brakets ,called SPP,there being mailed out Monday,,was told (SPP)-there is another part #number just for the braket set,,no more cost ,but had my heart on installing them this weekend,something to do next week and those lights are some big suckers,,do they put out alot of heat when on,???need to set back about 1/4 inch maybe . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kahmann Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 Just a quick update. My lights were replaced under warranty by SPP. Enrique shipped a new set out asap and I got them installed. I've washed my SGT a couple times since and have intentionally flooded the bezels with water, just to make sure the problem wasn't recurring. Anyway, they're dry as a bone. SPP has taken great care of me lately and I couldn't be happier with them. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 Well, after a brief wait, the replacement lens showed up! What do ya know, it was the right one! I removed the light assembly from the Shelby, here's the before shot: You need to LOOSEN the screws found on each side of the light. DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREWS!! (These are the screws that the large, black grill that came on the original lights snaps on to) Gently pull the lens assembly away from the body of the light until they separate. (Note the square, silver nuts the screws are attached to, this is why you only LOOSEN the screws!) Remove the bulb and disconnect the one wire attached to the lens. Carefully remove the gasket and note it's orientation for re-installation on the new lens. Reassemble in reverse order and your done! Good as new! Lens was around $55 - much cheaper than ordering a new set! (Well, I did that too, so now I have spares!) Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07-2937 Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 I borrowed this pic from an earlier post. the blue fuse on the far right all by itself is sitting in a spare fuse holder slot thats where we put the driving lights fuse when we pulled them for the billit grill install I would say 98% of the SGT's should have them there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 I borrowed this pic from an earlier post. the blue fuse on the far right all by itself is sitting in a spare fuse holder slot thats where we put the driving lights fuse when we pulled them for the billit grill install I would say 98% of the SGT's should have them there Good info! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007_Shelby_GT Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 Ya know I never even bothered to look for a spare! Guess I'll look now! Sam AKA: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard m.switzer Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 I got my lights today from SPP ,but did not get the upper brakets ,called SPP,there being mailed out Monday,,was told (SPP)-there is another part #number just for the braket set,,no more cost ,but had my heart on installing them this weekend,something to do next week and those lights are some big suckers,,do they put out alot of heat when on,???need to set back about 1/4 inch maybe . got my braket from SPP friday,,installed lights over the weekend,,,,has anyone wired there lights together with the upper grill lights ,,,stock GT lights or the Shelby up-grade grill lights,,,all four lights on one fuse ,,,will this work using the factory dash switch,,,,will the wires get to hot from all the vot's ,,,,I understand ,,not to run the lights all the time,,only when needed,looking for some info,,on the wiring of the stock GT lights to the PIAA lower lights,,thanks,,Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 got my braket from SPP friday,,installed lights over the weekend,,,,has anyone wired there lights together with the upper grill lights ,,,stock GT lights or the Shelby up-grade grill lights,,,all four lights on one fuse ,,,will this work using the factory dash switch,,,,will the wires get to hot from all the vot's ,,,,I understand ,,not to run the lights all the time,,only when needed,looking for some info,,on the wiring of the stock GT lights to the PIAA lower lights,,thanks,,Richard. They are supposed to wire into the harness where the GT lights were. I don't know if the system can handle that much of a draw if you try to splice these in. I tend to doubt it though. The test is to go ahead and wire them in, turn them on, and see if you smell burning rubber! Ok, ok...just kidding! But I seriously don't know what the total load would be. If someone has a meter you could ask they measure the draw with the PIAA lights and do the same with the stock lights and add them together and see if they exceed the limits, but of course you also need to find out what those limits are. Maybe, hopefully, someone else can give you an answer...looks good on your car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard m.switzer Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 They are supposed to wire into the harness where the GT lights were. I don't know if the system can handle that much of a draw if you try to splice these in. I tend to doubt it though. The test is to go ahead and wire them in, turn them on, and see if you smell burning rubber! Ok, ok...just kidding! But I seriously don't know what the total load would be. If someone has a meter you could ask they measure the draw with the PIAA lights and do the same with the stock lights and add them together and see if they exceed the limits, but of course you also need to find out what those limits are. Maybe, hopefully, someone else can give you an answer...looks good on your car! thanks for your reply,,,just thinking about using the PIAA-wires that came with the kit,,lots more work doing that thoe,thanks again,,and maybe SPP will someday send me a reply on this matter also,,,wrote them over a week ago ,,but no reply just yet,Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard m.switzer Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 FordInstShtM_2004_A.pdfthought this might help someone,,looks do-able, thanks for your reply,,,just thinking about using the PIAA-wires that came with the kit,,lots more work doing that thoe,thanks again,,and maybe SPP will someday send me a reply on this matter also,,,wrote them over a week ago ,,but no reply just yet,Richard. FordInstShtM_2004_A.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 FordInstShtM_2004_A.pdfthought this might help someone,,looks do-able, Wish SPP could just contract with the same company Ford did and create a version that fits our ducts or includes an adaptor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NordicShelby Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Got around to installing the brake duct/fog light kit with the lower grille and the carbom fiber splitter. Thanks to the guys on this thread posting there experiences I was able to install the whole works in about 4 hrs. And I only FU one thing , I figured on installing the carbon fiber splitter after the brake duct work was all done, so as not to get it all scratched up, well, the splitter is made to fit under the benzel itself . YOU HAVE TO INSTALL THE CARBON FIBER SPLITTER FIRST AND THEN THE BENZEL. If you do this first make sure to use alot of tape! It's not the end of the world if you don't and do it the way I did it. Because the CF splitter fits under the benzel and as you all know the benzel is a tight fit to begin with, you will have to trim some off the bottom of the benzel for it to fit well. Or trim about a 1/4" off the CF splitter on the edge that fits under the benzel. I didn't want to do this because I didn't know how the CF was going to react to me grinding on it. So what I did was take the chicken $hit way out and it worked just fine . After a few dry runs of fitting I found that there was only about an 1/16" to 1/8" "slop" and that if fitted decent you wouldn't be able to tell. I have some fairly thick 3M two sided tape for putting on side trim and emblems, you can get this stuff at any auto parts store and has the red plastic covering the adhesive. I put enough on the splitter itself to hold the CF one onto the car. And low and behold the CF splitter went on perfect and looks great, you can't even tell. After that I patted myself on the back and had a beer to celebrate! :happy feet: PS. Just one though :beerchug: I have the whipple 550, driving lights and bezels ok this is my problem SAI and my Ford dealer state that you cannot install the brake duct kit and the driving lights they state there is not enough room. IS this True? I guess I would have rather installed the brake duct kit instead of the driving lights but I assumed I could have both but I guess thats not the case. Has anybody found a brake duct kit that will work fit around the intercooler and the driving lights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenntex Posted August 17, 2009 Report Share Posted August 17, 2009 Thanks to all on this thread, I was able to read all about the install before I tried it! My focus was to add brake ducts. I do HPDE events with thedriversedge.net and at my last event, 2nd with the SGT, I was picking up good speed and the brakes got soft. This happened even with ATE Super Blue fluid and Carbotech HP-10 pads. I wanted to use the Shelby duct adapter with the Quantum Performance track kit. It is frustrating that the Shelby duct is 3.5", when the Quantum and other hoses are all 3". Someone had suggested a rubber reducer available at a hardware store. Turns out the 3" to 2" reducer fits the 3.5" OD of the Shelby adapter and the 3" ID of the duct pretty well. Picture of the reducer (test fit onto Shelby adapter): The biggest problem I had was the fact that the adapter pointed upwards, and with this rubber reducer added, the hose was difficult to install and took a sharp bend because of the A/C heat exchanger. I ended up cutting about 3/4" off the Shelby adapter and about 1/2" off each end of the reducer. This made it easer to install, but still a tight fit. Adapter view (sorry about the wrong focus point!): (The blue tape is there to prevent wear on the hose. I'm going to check it later and see how it holds up and put something more permanent there if required.) Several others have already posted pictures cutting the holes, etc. I used a Dremel, so mine was slower and more messy than most of the others! So, I thought I'd paste some pictures showing the Quantum parts. I was very impressed with the toughness of the silicon hose, and the plates fit well. I did find that I needed to "pull" the spindle mounted duct plate over a bit as I tightened the screws, for the metal coil of the tube to fit over the duct. The instructions have you secure the tubing on the tie rod, so I've attached a picture showing this, with the supplied clamp to prevent the cable tie from sliding down the rod. Also, a couple pictures of the duct from the tire view and underneath from the opposite side. Final view after completion! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnrehder Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 I just installed my Quantum performance brake cooling ducts last night. I planned on making my own air scoops because I like building stuff. I drilled a 2.75 diameter hole in the space where a normal scoop would go. While I was holding the end up to the back of the hole a thought came to me. Why do I need an adapter on the back to clamp the hose to? Here is what i did: Drilled four small holes equally spaced around the 2.75 hole in the facia. Then used 4 zip ties to seat the hose to the back of the fascia where the hole was drilled. The hose I got was really beefy (high temp version) so it pulled up and seated great. Very low tech for sure. I then dremeled out the holes in the cover plate to match where the opening to the hose is and by jove its works fine. I'll take pictures tonight and post. If for some reason down the road this set up goes south I'll buy the adapter plates! What have I got to lose try trying right? Thanks to all on this thread, I was able to read all about the install before I tried it! My focus was to add brake ducts. I do HPDE events with thedriversedge.net and at my last event, 2nd with the SGT, I was picking up good speed and the brakes got soft. This happened even with ATE Super Blue fluid and Carbotech HP-10 pads. I wanted to use the Shelby duct adapter with the Quantum Performance track kit. It is frustrating that the Shelby duct is 3.5", when the Quantum and other hoses are all 3". Someone had suggested a rubber reducer available at a hardware store. Turns out the 3" to 2" reducer fits the 3.5" OD of the Shelby adapter and the 3" ID of the duct pretty well. Picture of the reducer (test fit onto Shelby adapter): The biggest problem I had was the fact that the adapter pointed upwards, and with this rubber reducer added, the hose was difficult to install and took a sharp bend because of the A/C heat exchanger. I ended up cutting about 3/4" off the Shelby adapter and about 1/2" off each end of the reducer. This made it easer to install, but still a tight fit. Adapter view (sorry about the wrong focus point!): (The blue tape is there to prevent wear on the hose. I'm going to check it later and see how it holds up and put something more permanent there if required.) Several others have already posted pictures cutting the holes, etc. I used a Dremel, so mine was slower and more messy than most of the others! So, I thought I'd paste some pictures showing the Quantum parts. I was very impressed with the toughness of the silicon hose, and the plates fit well. I did find that I needed to "pull" the spindle mounted duct plate over a bit as I tightened the screws, for the metal coil of the tube to fit over the duct. The instructions have you secure the tubing on the tie rod, so I've attached a picture showing this, with the supplied clamp to prevent the cable tie from sliding down the rod. Also, a couple pictures of the duct from the tire view and underneath from the opposite side. Final view after completion! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mywickedshelby Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 does anyone know where I can get the instructions to install the front brake ducts, the lights and bezels are already in. EDIT: OK, I was only 4 pages into this thread when I made that post, saw the last page with instructions and have my answer., thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrKSGT Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 Got mine in earlier this summer but had not posted. Finally got a day to get a good picture to realy show the detail. Most pictures have not did much to really show it off. Picture was taken before it's last wash for the summer. I see that a good camera like to show off the bugs. DrKSGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffIsHereToo Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 Got mine in earlier this summer but had not posted. Finally got a day to get a good picture to realy show the detail. Most pictures have not did much to really show it off. Picture was taken before it's last wash for the summer. I see that a good camera like to show off the bugs. DrKSGT No worries! I washed it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pottydr Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 This site may help some people with that need some adapters http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shotokan1509 Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 What PIAA model are the lights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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