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Brake Duct & Driving Light Thread


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Well, yesterday was the day of opportunity for me, so i took the challenge of installing the kit and the results were perfect. This job took all day,and im a little sore today after 100 times getting up and off the creeper. I would say the worst part of this whole job was drilling the holes for the light bracket.

It seemed that it would never go through and that is why im sore today. You would definitely want a close quarters drill to do this part. As far as cutting the holes for the light bezel, I would like to say thank you to those that recommended the rotozip. That is definitely the easiest way to cut precise holes for this job. Thanks to all for the valuable info, and after doing this job, i would probably expect to pay between the $400 - $500 range if i had hired it out.

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My kit came in last week. To be honest ... I am not impressed. For the money, it sure looks cheap. IMHO.

Extremely dissapointing, especially after waiting on the kit for almost a year!

I am not going to waste any more of my time or money on it.

 

Anyone wanting the kit PM me and I will give you a great deal on it.

 

 

Kevin

07SGT2591

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My kit came in last week. To be honest ... I am not impressed. For the money, it sure looks cheap. IMHO.

Extremely dissapointing, especially after waiting on the kit for almost a year!

I am not going to waste any more of my time or money on it.

 

Anyone wanting the kit PM me and I will give you a great deal on it.

 

 

Kevin

07SGT2591

I honestly thought the same thing when I opened the box. Now that it's installed, however, I couldn't be happier with it.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

Ken

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My kit came in last week. To be honest ... I am not impressed. For the money, it sure looks cheap. IMHO.

Extremely dissapointing, especially after waiting on the kit for almost a year!

I am not going to waste any more of my time or money on it.

 

Anyone wanting the kit PM me and I will give you a great deal on it.

 

 

Kevin

07SGT2591

PM sent hope you still have it

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Guest hfrosso
My kit came in last week. To be honest ... I am not impressed. For the money, it sure looks cheap. IMHO.

Extremely dissapointing, especially after waiting on the kit for almost a year!

I am not going to waste any more of my time or money on it.

 

Anyone wanting the kit PM me and I will give you a great deal on it.

 

 

Kevin

07SGT2591

 

 

PM sent. I can see from the pictures that they look cheap, but i still want them installed.

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It is a straight forward and not difficult install if you take the front bumper cover off. This is why the modshops are charging 400.00. If I would have known this before hand I would've added a tow hook to the front bumper while it was off. But it sure looked like it made it easier to install that way.

 

Chris

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Any word on the hose mounting bracket from SPP? Has anyone figured anything else out, as far as getting the fresh air to the rotors, in lieu of the rest of the kit from Shelby?

 

Ken

 

 

Ken,

 

It's funny you should mention that! As soon as I got my kit, I took the bezels to several "big box" stores to see if I could locate some less expensive hoses. I didn't really find anything that would fit exactly, though some of that 3", flexible aluminum dryer vent hose was very close. I could have made that work and it would have been very cheap, but the real problem lies in getting it attached to the back of the brakes in such a manner as to provide decent cooling. I don't think that just having an open pipe blowing cool air on the disc/calipers would do very much as the airstream would probably dissipate to quickly. I might try building some sort of box, but I'm not that good at metal work! Agent 47 has a nice set-up, but again, pricey!

 

Sam

 

AKA:

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Ken,

 

It's funny you should mention that! As soon as I got my kit, I took the bezels to several "big box" stores to see if I could locate some less expensive hoses. I didn't really find anything that would fit exactly, though some of that 3", flexible aluminum dryer vent hose was very close. I could have made that work and it would have been very cheap, but the real problem lies in getting it attached to the back of the brakes in such a manner as to provide decent cooling. I don't think that just having an open pipe blowing cool air on the disc/calipers would do very much as the airstream would probably dissipate to quickly. I might try building some sort of box, but I'm not that good at metal work! Agent 47 has a nice set-up, but again, pricey!

 

Sam

 

AKA:

 

keep me posted i have mine in but dont have the hoses bought yet.

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Ken,

 

It's funny you should mention that! As soon as I got my kit, I took the bezels to several "big box" stores to see if I could locate some less expensive hoses. I didn't really find anything that would fit exactly, though some of that 3", flexible aluminum dryer vent hose was very close. I could have made that work and it would have been very cheap, but the real problem lies in getting it attached to the back of the brakes in such a manner as to provide decent cooling. I don't think that just having an open pipe blowing cool air on the disc/calipers would do very much as the airstream would probably dissipate to quickly. I might try building some sort of box, but I'm not that good at metal work! Agent 47 has a nice set-up, but again, pricey!

 

Sam

 

AKA:

 

Doesn't Shelby sell the brake backing plate that has the hose duct built into it? That kit should come with hose that will fit the bezels and the backing plate...Of course, you'll have to remove your brake caliper and rotor to mount the new backing plates, but that's the easiest way to solve the problem...If Shelby doesn't have them, I'm sure someone else does for sure...I'm almost certain that I've seen the kit in the FRPP catalogue though...I'll look again...

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Doesn't Shelby sell the brake backing plate that has the hose duct built into it? That kit should come with hose that will fit the bezels and the backing plate...Of course, you'll have to remove your brake caliper and rotor to mount the new backing plates, but that's the easiest way to solve the problem...If Shelby doesn't have them, I'm sure someone else does for sure...I'm almost certain that I've seen the kit in the FRPP catalogue though...I'll look again...

The rest of the kit has 'been in development' for many months. They won't sell the backing plate yet and the hoses have melted in their tests.

They suggested that I buy some hose at Home Depot. Not really the answer I was looking for out of SPP. :headscratch:

 

Ken

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The rest of the kit has 'been in development' for many months. They won't sell the backing plate yet and the hoses have melted in their tests.

They suggested that I buy some hose at Home Depot. Not really the answer I was looking for out of SPP. :headscratch:

 

Ken

Having 30 years as a Brake Engineer I can understand the development process taking some time. I know of at least two cases where an OE released a plastic part near the rotor and had to pull it from production.

 

Issue is that plastic can be fine while you are moving and creating lots of heat. Everyone is into adding a S/C to be able to go faster and take their cars to the track. Brake rotors in normal use make get to 400C for short periods and cool back down to 200-250C when pulling into your garage. Most plastics have ability to withstand this level of temperature for length of time it takes to cool down. Race track temperature on the rotors can easily get to 700C and will most likely be at least 500C when you come off the track and park the car. Air flow becomes stagnant and the rotors start radiating heat to surrounding parts. Very few plastics can withstand 500C for more than a couple of minutes.

 

I thought this kit was suppose to be a plastic backing plate attached to the knuckle and shield area. Being attached makes task above even more difficult as heat radiated through contact points. Hoses will have to withstand this radiated heat as well if connected to the plate.

 

My personal thought is that I don't want the hose package. Increased air flow coming from the bezel direct through a fixed duct will get some air to the brakes without chance of catching the car on fire. Not likley to be as efficient as the proposed kit, but it would help.

 

DrKSGT

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I believe someone here has the Agent 47 ducts. Note that it appears to have aluminum/metal hose attachment for brakes:

 

http://www.agentfortyseven.com/S197/brakecooling.html

 

Nothing says you can't mix and match if the hose size is the same!

 

Sam

 

AKA:

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I believe someone here has the Agent 47 ducts. Note that it appears to have aluminum/metal hose attachment for brakes:

 

The Agent 47 caliper air diffuser is aluminum, the hose itself is a flexible plastic material and the ducts are black plastic, pretty much identical to the SGT's splitter. The hoses are secured at both ends with standard-type hose clamps.

 

Kevin

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  • 1 month later...
Today I recieved the Shelby brake duct bezel. I didn't order the PIAA lights with the kit but did get the Ford Racing brake cooling duct kit Part# M-2004-A to go with it. Tomorrow I will do the install and take plenty of pics. -FB

 

Well today I finished installing the Shelby brake duct bezel and the M-2004-A (Brake duct kit from Ford Racing) The cutting was a breeze with the Rotozip. I had all four holes cut in about 30 mins. The most time counsuming act was removing the wheels and calipers. I installed the backing plates (3 bolts) where the hose connects. The cuts in the lower fascia were now ready for the bezels, I inserted the bezels(tight fit) and then connected to the flange where the other end of the hose connects to the back of the Shelby bezel. The time for the whole install was about 2 1/2 hours. Air tools and a hydraulic lift makes the job go quick. -FB

 

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Well today I finished installing the Shelby brake duct bezel and the M-2004-A (Brake duct kit from Ford Racing) The cutting was a breeze with the Rotozip. I had all four holes cut in about 30 mins. The most time counsuming act was removing the wheels and calipers. I installed the backing plates (3 bolts) where the hose connects. The cuts in the lower fascia were now ready for the bezels, I inserted the bezels(tight fit) and then connected to the flange where the other end of the hose connects to the back of the Shelby bezel. The time for the whole install was about 2 1/2 hours. Air tools and a hydraulic lift makes the job go quick. -FB

I don't quite understand how the hose is connected to the bezel. It appears that the hose is smaller than the bezel. I see the clamps but don't see what it could be attached to. :headscratch:

 

Ken

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Here is a quick drawing I did. I almost took longer to draw this than to do actual install. :hysterical: Im no mechanical engineer by any means so I hopes this make sense. Clear as mud, right?

Oh I see. That makes lots of sense. I just didn't notice the flange in the pics at first. This looks like a pretty good kit. Is that 2.5" hose? What did you pay for this setup? Thanks for the clarification.

 

Ken

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Oh I see. That makes lots of sense. I just didn't notice the flange in the pics at first. This looks like a pretty good kit. Is that 2.5" hose? What did you pay for this setup? Thanks for the clarification.

 

Ken

 

 

As far as the Shelby bezel, I paid the SPP price + UPS delivery. The M-2004-A was $375.00 + shipping = around $530.00 for everything.

 

The high tempreture hoses are 2.5 inches.

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shelby2.jpg

 

 

 

shelby1.jpg

 

 

 

Got around to installing the brake duct/fog light kit with the lower grille and the carbom fiber splitter. Thanks to the guys on this thread posting there experiences I was able to install the whole works in about 4 hrs. And I only FU one thing :doh: , I figured on installing the carbon fiber splitter after the brake duct work was all done, so as not to get it all scratched up, well, the splitter is made to fit under the benzel itself :banghead: . YOU HAVE TO INSTALL THE CARBON FIBER SPLITTER FIRST AND THEN THE BENZEL. If you do this first make sure to use alot of tape! It's not the end of the world if you don't and do it the way I did it. Because the CF splitter fits under the benzel and as you all know the benzel is a tight fit to begin with, you will have to trim some off the bottom of the benzel for it to fit well. Or trim about a 1/4" off the CF splitter on the edge that fits under the benzel. I didn't want to do this because I didn't know how the CF was going to react to me grinding on it. So what I did was take the chicken $hit way out and it worked just fine :idea: . After a few dry runs of fitting I found that there was only about an 1/16" to 1/8" "slop" and that if fitted decent you wouldn't be able to tell. I have some fairly thick 3M two sided tape for putting on side trim and emblems, you can get this stuff at any auto parts store and has the red plastic covering the adhesive. I put enough on the splitter itself to hold the CF one onto the car. And low and behold the CF splitter went on perfect and looks great, you can't even tell. After that I patted myself on the back and had a beer to celebrate! :happy feet:

 

 

 

PS. Just one though :beerchug:

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