black86glhs Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 I thought some here might be interested in seeing some pics of the ported runners on my GLHS. If anyone has looked at a stock upper intake, they have plenty of meat to remove and still be structurally sound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdac guy Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 I thought some here might be interested in seeing some pics of the ported runners on my GLHS. If anyone has looked at a stock upper intake, they have plenty of meat to remove and still be structurally sound. Please tell us you did not take those out to gasket size. Doing that will make the runner sort of coke bottle shaped and disturb airflow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black86glhs Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Please tell us you did not take those out to gasket size. Doing that will make the runner sort of coke bottle shaped and disturb airflow.No Barry. I never port or gasket match any all the way out. I always leave some room for gasket movement and structural. They are actually pretty straight all the way in. Anything is better than the stock runners. I haven't pulled the lower to do any work on them yet. I know about the bumps and welding the exterior on the flange/runner area. Probably won't do much there anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdac guy Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 No Barry. I never port or gasket match any all the way out. I always leave some room for gasket movement and structural. They are actually pretty straight all the way in. Anything is better than the stock runners. I haven't pulled the lower to do any work on them yet. I know about the bumps and welding the exterior on the flange/runner area. Probably won't do much there anyway.Cool! FTR, a little known fact from some insiders (friends of mine) at Chrysler engineering ... On a two piece intake, the optimum amount of taper from the plenum to the bottom of the runner at the head is 7 degrees. Barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black86glhs Posted January 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 Cool! FTR, a little known fact from some insiders (friends of mine) at Chrysler engineering ... On a two piece intake, the optimum amount of taper from the plenum to the bottom of the runner at the head is 7 degrees. Barry Thanks for the inside scoop. The taper makes sense to me. I just wish it would warm up slightly so I could get the rest of it apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86glhs76 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 The upper plenum is a restriction with runners that are too long and 1/3 the plenum needed. You drop the factory plenum and put something real on there and you gain a ton of top end and a lot more power per PSI of boost. http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2533 My intake with a 58mm TB off the 1999 3.8L mini van. The plenum is a 2.5L plenum which gets you right in the 1 - 1.5 liter of plenum per liter of engine range. http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=631 towards the bottom is pictures of the lower piece. It looks a bit better now those were right after sanding. I use a 3/4" 80 and 120 grit roll with a 6" mandrel to sand the runners full length and 360 degrees. Then I use a medium and fine scotch bright to make the runner look like crome. Also in the porting section is a picture of the exhaust manifold and the water pump housing. On a good engine with ported head and so on the plenum intake greatly increases spool up and makes for scary fast throttle response. Clearly the wives tails about the 58mm TB and a big plenum were spread by people that never used one. Your wasting your time on the stock upper piece unless your trying to make the car look 100% bone stock. Other than that I would put the upper piece on a nice clean shelf some where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black86glhs Posted February 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2009 It finally warmed up enough to pull the head off the old engine. I have the lower half and the exhaust manifold ported now. :happy feet: I'll be rather busy the rest of the week, but hope to get the exhaust manifold, turbo, and intake back on this weekend. I'll try to remember to get some pictures before I put it back together. No promises, as I'm bad about not taking pics...lol. I will probably pull the drivetrain next. The 555 needs looked at and I want to freshen it up even if nothing is wrong with it. New bearings and a moly plate here I come! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black86glhs Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 It finally warmed up enough to pull the head off the old engine. I have the lower half and the exhaust manifold ported now. :happy feet: I'll be rather busy the rest of the week, but hope to get the exhaust manifold, turbo, and intake back on this weekend. I'll try to remember to get some pictures before I put it back together. No promises, as I'm bad about not taking pics...lol. I will probably pull the drivetrain next. The 555 needs looked at and I want to freshen it up even if nothing is wrong with it. New bearings and a moly plate here I come! It is a banner day! I remembered to take a few pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black86glhs Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 Also, clearanced the turbo mounting flange to get a 1/4 swivel 10mm socket on the 2 hidden ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnl Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 I now measure up to a 100* difference between the upper and lower parts of my 2 piece IM on my T2 GLHT after I put a 3/8" phenolic spacer between the two halves. This is measured on the external surface of the upper and lower runners of #1 and #4 where I can get a clean shot with a cheapo Harbor Freight laser thermometer. So . . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black86glhs Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 I now measure up to a 100* difference between the upper and lower parts of my 2 piece IM on my T2 GLHT after I put a 3/8" phenolic spacer between the two halves. This is measured on the external surface of the upper and lower runners of #1 and #4 where I can get a clean shot with a cheapo Harbor Freight laser thermometer. So . . . . I have been wondering if they made that big of a difference or not. Apparently, they do. :burnout: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86glhs76 Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 I now measure up to a 100* difference between the upper and lower parts of my 2 piece IM on my T2 GLHT after I put a 3/8" phenolic spacer between the two halves. This is measured on the external surface of the upper and lower runners of #1 and #4 where I can get a clean shot with a cheapo Harbor Freight laser thermometer. So . . . . Me and Jay did some testing to see if there is room for it in a GLHS. It barely fits. The best way to keep the intake cool is turbo and intake shielding and ceramic coating the exhaust parts. Unlike blower guys without an intercooler heat soking the intake doesn't do as much to hurt power. I've tried putting bags of ice on my intake, which really cooled it down, no effect at the track. Then I started soking the intercooler with the garden hose between runs, big improvement between runs. Then Jay caught me doing it and my secret was out lol. Water gets trapped in the fills of the IC and is there to cool the boost during the launch. Remember that the velocity of the air is really high coming out of the intercooler through the intake. It isn't moving slowly and wet like a V8 intake with a carb. It just doesn't get effected that much from the intake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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