jerrytubbs1 Posted January 2, 2009 Report Share Posted January 2, 2009 I have a few ?????????'s Its an auto 06 mustang gt.It has Airrade cai and a tune.Dyno'd 268/271 at Jim's The car currently runs (with me driving) 13.33-13.48 with a best of 13.23.....60' times are around2.10-2.14. It traps 101-103 With Sherry driving it runs 13.45-13.70's best of 13.38 60' 2.15-2.25 at 102-104 Thats on its factory tires with 3.55's..... Would just changing to my slicks, give it a better time?It spins alot on the 17" Pirellas Would 4.10's give it much of an improvement over factory gears? If I was to add a 150 shot with my 15" bogarts and slicks skinnies up front (weight savings app. 70 lbs.), what would a realistic improvement be? Then say to that add 4.10's and a converter????? Aluminum d/s also On a another note,would the stock con. and tranny and rearend take the 150 shot with slicks? I would like to get your opinions on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
07SGT4578 Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 I would buy some axles first, they will snap as soon as you hook with true slicks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socalwrench Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 The factory 31 spline 8.8" rear axle is fairly tough. It can handle DOT slicks just fine. However, for repeated use with wrinkle walls- I might buy a set of axles (and a locking diff. at the same time for drag racing use). Changing gears from 3.55 to 4.10 will make a big difference with your launch and 60' times. A higher stall converter will also help with a better launch- at the expensive of some drive-ability and transmission heat- when you're not racing. To my knowledge- the entire car can handle the additional 150 hp from nitrous. HOWEVER, the main reason I don't use nitrous oxide, it the sudden burst of power that puts severe strain on parts. It essentially shocks many internal engine and transmission parts. Now, if you used a stepped or progressive controller- it would help reduce that shock. But, for the total cost of this you may rethink your plan. What I would recommend is to determine how fast you want to go. This way you can figure out exactly which parts you need- instead of adding one on top of the other (which may conflict with something else). For instance, you may figure out that you need a 3200 stall instead of the 2800 with the 4.10 gears. You may figure out that an auxiliary transmission cooler is needed for repeated racing use. Best of luck! EDIT: I just realized I dug up an old thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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