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What to tell the dealer about your clutch problem ?


Grabber
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Several people have asked me "what should I say to the dealer when I go in and talk to them about my clutch problem?".

 

This is what I would do.

 

Go in and be polite, and if the service advisor does not know about the problem, you will have to school him up. (Have the TSB in your back pocket too)

 

Tell him that you know for a fact that:

 

1. The first 11 months of GT500 production cars did not get any Teflon lube on the input shaft and clutch hub.

 

2. Tell him that you know your clutch hub and input shaft have a bunch of surface rust and corrosion on them because the lube never was applied.

 

3. Tell him that you know that the rusty shaft and clutch hub cause the clutch to not release on time and drag.

 

4. Tell him that you know that clutch drag causes your syncros to remain loaded with engine torque and that is why your gears grind inbetween shifts.

 

5. Tell him that you know the transmission input shaft splines have been revised to be a little wider and broached smoother so it will release on time from the clutch hub.

 

6. Tell him that you know the clutch hub has been revised to be made out of nickle to prevent the clutch hub from rusting.

 

7. Tell him that you know your flywheel is made out of nodular iron and it does not dissapate the heat very well so it has warped on you and is toasting your clutch and causing your car to have clutch chatter.

 

8. Tell him that you know the new flywheel is made out of 4100 series steel and is much thicker to take care of the heat dissapation and warpage problem.

 

If that does not work.....go to a different dealer. :banghead:

Edited by Grabber
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Several people have asked me "what should I say to the dealer when I go in and talk to them about my clutch problem?".

 

This is what I would do.

 

Go in and be polite, and if the service advisor does not know about the problem, you will have to school him up. (Have the TSB in your back pocket too)

 

Tell him that you know for a fact that:

 

1. The first 11 months of GT500 production cars did not get any Teflon lube on the input shaft and clutch hub.

 

2. Tell him that you know your clutch hub and input shaft have a bunch of surface rust and corrosion on them because the lube never was applied.

 

3. Tell him that you know that the rusty shaft and clutch hub cause the clutch to not release on time and drag.

 

4. Tell him that you know that clutch drag causes your syncros to remain loaded with engine torque and that is why your gears grind inbetween shifts.

 

5. Tell him that you know the transmission input shaft splines have been revised to be a little wider so it will release on time from the clutch hub.

 

6. Tell him that you know the clutch hub has been revised to be made out of nickle to prevent the clutch hub from rusting.

 

7. Tell him that you know your flywheel is made out of nodular iron and it does not dissapate the heat very well so it has warped on you and is toasting your clutch and causing your car to have clutch chatter.

 

8. Tell him that you know the new flywheel is made out of 3100 series steel and is much thicker to take care of the heat dissapation and warpage problem.

 

If that does not work.....go to a different dealer. :banghead:

Perfect...Thanks Grabber

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Several people have asked me "what should I say to the dealer when I go in and talk to them about my clutch problem?".

 

This is what I would do.

 

Go in and be polite, and if the service advisor does not know about the problem, you will have to school him up. (Have the TSB in your back pocket too)

 

Tell him that you know for a fact that:

 

1. The first 11 months of GT500 production cars did not get any Teflon lube on the input shaft and clutch hub.

 

2. Tell him that you know your clutch hub and input shaft have a bunch of surface rust and corrosion on them because the lube never was applied.

 

3. Tell him that you know that the rusty shaft and clutch hub cause the clutch to not release on time and drag.

 

4. Tell him that you know that clutch drag causes your syncros to remain loaded with engine torque and that is why your gears grind inbetween shifts.

 

5. Tell him that you know the transmission input shaft splines have been revised to be a little wider so it will release on time from the clutch hub.

 

6. Tell him that you know the clutch hub has been revised to be made out of nickle to prevent the clutch hub from rusting.

 

7. Tell him that you know your flywheel is made out of nodular iron and it does not dissapate the heat very well so it has warped on you and is toasting your clutch and causing your car to have clutch chatter.

 

8. Tell him that you know the new flywheel is made out of 3100 series steel and is much thicker to take care of the heat dissapation and warpage problem.

 

If that does not work.....go to a different dealer. :banghead:

 

And it has worked only if they perform the TSB correctly??????????????? :doh:

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And it has worked only if they perform the TSB correctly??????????????? :doh:

 

Very True fact.

 

So you need to then ask them if they have a Tranny technician and tell them that the 14 special tools needed to rebuild the transmission are listed on the front page of each section of the WSM (Work Service Manual). The WSM manuals are available to the tecnicians via the on line dealer access OASIS system. Ask them if the tranny Tech has all those tools.

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Thank's for all your great advice Grabber.........

 

No problem with mine yet with low mileage but I definately expect symptoms

to arise before the warranty expires.........In fact I will make sure of it.............. :peelout:

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Thank's for all your great advice Grabber.........

 

No problem with mine yet with low mileage but I definately expect symptoms

to arise before the warranty expires.........In fact I will make sure of it.............. :peelout:

 

Good luck with your car.

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Thank's Grabber;

 

Still happy I baught this beast.........Worth every dollar I paid and then some........

 

I agree 100%. There have been some problems to work thru, and they all get behind us sooner or later, then the enjoyment shines thru.

 

My Shelby still puts a huge smile on my face when ever I get in it. Now that it's fixed and paid for.....the smile is even bigger. :)

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:censored:

Very True fact.

 

So you need to then ask them if they have a Tranny technician and tell them that the 14 special tools needed to rebuild the transmission are listed on the front page of each section of the WSM (Work Service Manual). The WSM manuals are available to the tecnicians via the on line dealer access OASIS system. Ask them if the tranny Tech has all those tools.

So what do you tell them when the clutch is grabby after the tsb? Warming them up to the fact that it should not be grabby however they believe it is a characteristic of the ceramic clutch and is normal- I say what is normal- This is a dealer that that stepped up to the plate and did not squabble so it is kind of thin ice- All the other portions of the tsb were fine- shifting and no problem on moderate takeoffs just the gentle normal move from stop- sometimes ok and sometimes not so good. You have to drive it like the little old lady from pasedena- I really do not believe everthing was planned that well regarding the tsb issue and the fact others are having problems aferword does not mean because symptons are back the mechanic did something wrong. Correct part numbers used per oasis- so whats the scoop- we may never know. The good dealers are well aware of the tsb and reacting positive so it may be an expensive learning experience on both sides of the coin- those of use who paid the big bucks for the cars and the engineers that did not design the car to have problems. Seems all I can do is let them know I am not happy and hope for the best.

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I have not been reading the forum for quite some time. My 07 was built on10/26/2006. I dont' have many miles, less than 4000 I'm embarassed to say. With my build date am I vulnerable to this clutch problem? If so, I am in the Houston area anyone had it done at a Houston dealer successfully?

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I have not been reading the forum for quite some time. My 07 was built on10/26/2006. I dont' have many miles, less than 4000 I'm embarassed to say. With my build date am I vulnerable to this clutch problem? If so, I am in the Houston area anyone had it done at a Houston dealer successfully?

 

Yes.

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So what should I do?

 

Do you have any of the symptoms listed in the TSB ? Study it and know it well.

GT500_Clutch_drag_TSB_08_16_04.pdf

 

School yourself up on the new parts shown in my install thread:

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...ic=32271&hl=

 

Do some testing like I did. Here's my clutch test thread:

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...ic=11629&hl=

 

Make sure you read post #54 too:

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...st&p=522571

GT500_Clutch_drag_TSB_08_16_04.pdf

Edited by Grabber
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Several people have asked me "what should I say to the dealer when I go in and talk to them about my clutch problem?".

 

This is what I would do.

 

Go in and be polite, and if the service advisor does not know about the problem, you will have to school him up. (Have the TSB in your back pocket too)

 

Tell him that you know for a fact that:

 

1. The first 11 months of GT500 production cars did not get any Teflon lube on the input shaft and clutch hub.

 

2. Tell him that you know your clutch hub and input shaft have a bunch of surface rust and corrosion on them because the lube never was applied.

 

3. Tell him that you know that the rusty shaft and clutch hub cause the clutch to not release on time and drag.

 

4. Tell him that you know that clutch drag causes your syncros to remain loaded with engine torque and that is why your gears grind inbetween shifts.

 

5. Tell him that you know the transmission input shaft splines have been revised to be a little wider so it will release on time from the clutch hub.

 

6. Tell him that you know the clutch hub has been revised to be made out of nickle to prevent the clutch hub from rusting.

 

7. Tell him that you know your flywheel is made out of nodular iron and it does not dissapate the heat very well so it has warped on you and is toasting your clutch and causing your car to have clutch chatter.

 

8. Tell him that you know the new flywheel is made out of 3100 series steel and is much thicker to take care of the heat dissapation and warpage problem.

 

If that does not work.....go to a different dealer. :banghead:

Thanks for coming back on the clutch issues Grabber your needed and appriciated-
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  • 2 months later...
Several people have asked me "what should I say to the dealer when I go in and talk to them about my clutch problem?".

 

This is what I would do.

 

Go in and be polite, and if the service advisor does not know about the problem, you will have to school him up. (Have the TSB in your back pocket too)

 

Tell him that you know for a fact that:

 

1. The first 11 months of GT500 production cars did not get any Teflon lube on the input shaft and clutch hub.

 

2. Tell him that you know your clutch hub and input shaft have a bunch of surface rust and corrosion on them because the lube never was applied.

 

3. Tell him that you know that the rusty shaft and clutch hub cause the clutch to not release on time and drag.

 

4. Tell him that you know that clutch drag causes your syncros to remain loaded with engine torque and that is why your gears grind inbetween shifts.

 

5. Tell him that you know the transmission input shaft splines have been revised to be a little wider and broached smoother so it will release on time from the clutch hub.

 

6. Tell him that you know the clutch hub has been revised to be made out of nickle to prevent the clutch hub from rusting.

 

7. Tell him that you know your flywheel is made out of nodular iron and it does not dissapate the heat very well so it has warped on you and is toasting your clutch and causing your car to have clutch chatter.

 

8. Tell him that you know the new flywheel is made out of 4100 series steel and is much thicker to take care of the heat dissapation and warpage problem.

 

If that does not work.....go to a different dealer. :banghead:

Should this be a sticky?

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Several people have asked me "what should I say to the dealer when I go in and talk to them about my clutch problem?".

 

This is what I would do.

 

Go in and be polite, and if the service advisor does not know about the problem, you will have to school him up. (Have the TSB in your back pocket too)

 

Tell him that you know for a fact that:

 

1. The first 11 months of GT500 production cars did not get any Teflon lube on the input shaft and clutch hub.

 

2. Tell him that you know your clutch hub and input shaft have a bunch of surface rust and corrosion on them because the lube never was applied.

 

3. Tell him that you know that the rusty shaft and clutch hub cause the clutch to not release on time and drag.

 

4. Tell him that you know that clutch drag causes your syncros to remain loaded with engine torque and that is why your gears grind inbetween shifts.

 

5. Tell him that you know the transmission input shaft splines have been revised to be a little wider and broached smoother so it will release on time from the clutch hub.

 

6. Tell him that you know the clutch hub has been revised to be made out of nickle to prevent the clutch hub from rusting.

 

7. Tell him that you know your flywheel is made out of nodular iron and it does not dissapate the heat very well so it has warped on you and is toasting your clutch and causing your car to have clutch chatter.

 

8. Tell him that you know the new flywheel is made out of 4100 series steel and is much thicker to take care of the heat dissapation and warpage problem.

 

If that does not work.....go to a different dealer. :banghead:

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Okay, so I have an 08 with 1300+ miles on it. Haven't even had it a week and didn't know about the TSB until reading it today. I have noticed a chatter (or gear noise) and a high release on the clutch when starting from stop at low rpm. Are these symptoms?

 

I know this car is low mileage, but I know clutches and they should act or sound like that. Would being a garaged rarely driven car contribute to the onset of rust and such on the input shafts?

 

Should I just ride it out until I start having bigger problems? Does the TSB cover 2nd owner cars? I still have fac warranty, plus Ford Platinum Protection for 72 Mo. and 75K miles...

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Okay, so I have an 08 with 1300+ miles on it. Haven't even had it a week and didn't know about the TSB until reading it today. I have noticed a chatter (or gear noise) and a high release on the clutch when starting from stop at low rpm. Are these symptoms?

 

I know this car is low mileage, but I know clutches and they should act or sound like that. Would being a garaged rarely driven car contribute to the onset of rust and such on the input shafts?

 

Should I just ride it out until I start having bigger problems? Does the TSB cover 2nd owner cars? I still have fac warranty, plus Ford Platinum Protection for 72 Mo. and 75K miles...

 

The gear roll over noise is normal.

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...ic=37150&hl=

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

 

What about a little gear noise when sitting idle and in neutral? I noticed this the other day. I was sitting waiting on a buddy and I heard noise in (or in the vicinity of the gearbox) that would subside when the clutch was engaged.

 

Is this normal too?

 

All this TSB stuff has me pretty paranoid now...

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What about a little gear noise when sitting idle and in neutral? I noticed this the other day. I was sitting waiting on a buddy and I heard noise in (or in the vicinity of the gearbox) that would subside when the clutch was engaged.

 

Is this normal too?

 

All this TSB stuff has me pretty paranoid now...

 

Ya that noise is normal.

 

Read this thread for more info:

 

http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php...ic=37150&hl=

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had two symptoms that enabled me to get the dealer to proceed with the TSB.

 

1) On cold days until everything hit normal operating temps, I would experience some difficulty shifting from 1st to 2nd and into reverse. The car was this way from the first day I owed it.

 

2) The clutch would continue to hiss (ever so slightly) when the clutch pedal was fully depressed to the floor. This symptom started to develop late last fall with about 4,400 miles on the odometer and it was extremely hard to hear unless the car was sitting in an enclosed space such as my garage.

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I had two symptoms that enabled me to get the dealer to proceed with the TSB.

 

1) On cold days until everything hit normal operating temps, I would experience some difficulty shifting from 1st to 2nd and into reverse. The car was this way from the first day I owed it.

 

2) The clutch would continue to hiss (ever so slightly) when the clutch pedal was fully depressed to the floor. This symptom started to develop late last fall with about 4,400 miles on the odometer and it was extremely hard to hear unless the car was sitting in an enclosed space such as my garage.

 

We have a BINGO - This is the symptom that I found 2 years ago and SVT told me "YOUR CLUTCH IS DRAGGING". They then fixed my car.

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