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How do I get the supercharger to engage?


drlovegun

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I know this might sound a little weird, but I can't get me boost gauge to read at all. I haven't really gunned the hell out of it yet though. I have though accidentally downshifted to third gear at 70 mph (don't laugh, I've driven manuals for years, this one is a little shorter throw than I'm used to). Is there a trick or does it kick on after a certainamount of miles?

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I know this might sound a little weird, but I can't get me boost gauge to read at all.

 

Not so weird - I had the same feeling. I was babying it for the first couple of miles and the boost gauge never moved.

 

Then a little while later I gave it a bit more gas getting on to the highway and it GOES!

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I know this might sound a little weird, but I can't get me boost gauge to read at all. I haven't really gunned the hell out of it yet though. I have though accidentally downshifted to third gear at 70 mph (don't laugh, I've driven manuals for years, this one is a little shorter throw than I'm used to). Is there a trick or does it kick on after a certainamount of miles?

 

 

Probably need to really drop the hammer on it. I believe after 5 continous miles the valet limit for shipping is removed and the regular stock tune is activity from there on out. I think the most boost you will ever see is around 9psi. Others have reported a similar problem its seems the hammer dropping seems to fix it :D

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I know this might sound a little weird, but I can't get me boost gauge to read at all. I haven't really gunned the hell out of it yet though. I have though accidentally downshifted to third gear at 70 mph (don't laugh, I've driven manuals for years, this one is a little shorter throw than I'm used to). Is there a trick or does it kick on after a certainamount of miles?

Sounds like we need to add this to the FAQ section lol...people saying no boost.

 

Dave :fan:

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drlovegun,

 

yes, if you hit it hard, believe me, your gauge will jump and your head will snap back. i was doing the same thing for awhile until i decided it was time to start to "really" drive it. stand back.

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I know this might sound a little weird, but I can't get me boost gauge to read at all. I haven't really gunned the hell out of it yet though. I have though accidentally downshifted to third gear at 70 mph (don't laugh, I've driven manuals for years, this one is a little shorter throw than I'm used to). Is there a trick or does it kick on after a certainamount of miles?

 

 

 

Bring it over here and I'll show you. Oh, and bring a change of underwear.

 

 

:hysterical:

 

bj

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I had the same problem in first gear. The car must be under a load for the boost to kick in. Otherwise the computer bypasses it completely. For example, you will never see any boost while revving the engine out of gear (or with the clutch depressed), regardless of how high you take the RPMs.

 

Try this: Cruise in any gear (second or third are ideal) at very low rpm, say 1,500, then floor it (don't be shy on the "floor it" part) and hold on. You will see the boost gauge move like you hit a nitrous button. Its even more fun with the TCS turned off.

 

:bandance:

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I know this might sound a little weird, but I can't get me boost gauge to read at all. I haven't really gunned the hell out of it yet though. I have though accidentally downshifted to third gear at 70 mph (don't laugh, I've driven manuals for years, this one is a little shorter throw than I'm used to). Is thire a trick or does it kick on after a certainamount of miles?

 

 

Still no Boost? Do this. Disconnect the negative battery cable and reconnect after about 30 seconds to one minute.... NEXT - turn the key to turn on the ignition but DO NOT START THE CAR and then turn off the ignition switch. Next drive the hell out of it and hold on!

 

This may have been overlooked during your PDI (pre-delivery inspection) at the dealer. It is mandated on the checklist from Ford but several others have reported that it was overlooked at the dealer prior to taking delivery of thier cars and if it was not done you will not see full potential of this car.

 

GOOD LUCK DOC!

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Still no Boost? Do this. Disconnect the negative battery cable and reconnect after about 30 seconds to one minute.... NEXT - turn the key to turn on the ignition but DO NOT START THE CAR and then turn off the ignition switch. Next drive the hell out of it and hold on!

 

This may have been overlooked during your PDI (pre-delivery inspection) at the dealer. It is mandated on the checklist from Ford but several others have reported that it was overlooked at the dealer prior to taking delivery of thier cars and if it was not done you will not see full potential of this car.

 

GOOD LUCK DOC!

 

I don't believe this was done on mine at the dealer. car has about 400 miles now. can this be done at anytime (1,000 5,000 etc. miles). Does this "set" the computer to a driving style (ie: soft&easy, hard&fast)? Can this procedure be done more than once, will it always re-tune to the new driving style? thanks for the info.

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I don't believe this was done on mine at the dealer. car has about 400 miles now. can this be done at anytime (1,000 5,000 etc. miles). Does this "set" the computer to a driving style (ie: soft&easy, hard&fast)? Can this procedure be done more than once, will it always re-tune to the new driving style? thanks for the info.

 

Mine also wasn't done at the PDI so I had no boost readings until this maneuver was done. Now I get 11 or so easily :)

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I don't believe this was done on mine at the dealer. car has about 400 miles now. can this be done at anytime (1,000 5,000 etc. miles). Does this "set" the computer to a driving style (ie: soft&easy, hard&fast)? Can this procedure be done more than once, will it always re-tune to the new driving style? thanks for the info.

 

 

Item J10 on Shebly GT500 P.D.I. list "Reset PCM Calibration (Shebly GT500)..

http://www.stangsunleashed.com/forums/inde...ost&id=2891

 

This procedure can be done at anytime and yes more than once is fine (as in changing the battery or disconnecting same for mod install etc. but if not done at least once your car will seem like a dud.

 

I am not certain about the "driving style set" as you mentioned (such as is in the Excursion models) but I don't think that it monitors and programs according to your driving habits as does the Excursion (for the auto trans shifting etc.).

 

You might want to start a new thread and ask someone who knows since there are many knowledgeable persons using this site and they may be able to answer your questions regarding this matter.

 

Cheers

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Re why no boost when not on it more than a little:

 

This makes perfect sense to me. I don't think it's anything unusual for a supercharged engine or anything being artificially controlled by the ECU.

 

When the engine is being asked for an amount of power that can be made based on the inherent "NA" engineering design point of the engine's compression ratio, head/cam breathing/flow, etc, there will be no boost because no is physically required -- it's just the physics of the situation, I think.

 

So, for example, in neutral, even if you punch it, no boost -- because the engine's basic physical engineering design can make all the HP necessary (and then some!) to overcome friction and the inertial resistance of the rotating assemblies just fine without any dynamic compression ratio (boost) increase.

 

Even under load, if you're not asking for more than the ol' 5.4 with 8.5:1 (or whatever) compression can make, no boost will occurr. Ask for more than that -- which is easy to achieve at lower revs in higher gears because the inertia of the whole car has to be overcome and at low revs that demands torque -- and you'll see boost on the guage ... and under those conditions (1,500-2000 rpm in third or fourth) it should be an almost instant jump because your foot can instantly send demad way beyond what the "NA" engineering design of the motor can achieve, so boost just happens just as surely as vacuum drops.

 

At least that's how it sems to me ;-)

 

Hey, I think there's a GT500 mantra in there: BOOST HAPPENS!

:hysterical:

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Mine also wasn't done at the PDI so I had no boost readings until this maneuver was done. Now I get 11 or so easily :)

 

You get 11 psi of boost? I thought the spec was 9? I'd be worried if you're seeing 11....unless you've installed a pulley already.

 

As far as whether this has to be done at PDI, I've seen conflicting info. One person said yes it must be done, others have said that after certain start/stop cycles and/or driving distances it would "come into it" on it's own.

 

Edit: www.media.ford.com article says....

The Ford Shelby GT500's supercharged 5.4-liter, 32-valve V-8 is a result of Ford's experience in developing the modular V-8 and V-10 engine series. The engine is force-fed air via a "Roots-type" supercharger providing 9 pounds per square inch of boost. It borrows the four-valve cylinder heads, piston rings and bearings, from the Ford GT engine.

 

Dave

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You get 11 psi of boost? I thought the spec was 9? I'd be worried if you're seeing 11....unless you've installed a pulley already.

 

 

I wouldn't get into a panic about those gauges folks. Ford gauges are based on a go/no go sender and they are notoriously innaccurate. Many of us had those high on our wish list a year and a half ago,they would make for a nice value added item going forward.

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I wouldn't get into a panic about those gauges folks. Ford gauges are based on a go/no go sender and they are notoriously innaccurate. Many of us had those high on our wish list a year and a half ago,they would make for a nice value added item going forward.

 

Thanks for the info Jet. I just knew 11 psi is not the correct factory boost level. Each person will have to make their own call. If that was my car, I'd at least have the tech check the boost manually with another gauge to make sure something is not going on that may harm the engine....or have them replace the gauge.

 

Dave

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