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Long Tubes


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Hello all, you think its worth putting some long tubes on my Shelby GT? if i go SC later on, will i have to put the stock tubes back on? or can i leave the long tubes on? thanks.

 

current mods:

 

3.90 gears soon to be 4.10's

UD Steeda pulleys

JLT intake

tune by GREG

 

aprox. 300rwhp

 

how much hp will i gain with the long tubes?

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I don't think you can put long tube headers on these cars because of the clearance issues. Shortys are definitely doable as I've had them installed on mine and love the additional power and you can keep them on if you decide to go to a SC later.

 

Check some of the other forum subjects, I know LuLu has documented all his upgrades and has before and after dyno results.

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Longtubes breath better then the shortys and you can still run them with a supercharger. However the shortys are a direct bolt up to our stock exhaust system. If you go with longtube you will have to change the x-pipe and you need to put a delay to the rear O2 sensors.

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we are running FR ceramic coated shorty's with the stock exhaust system

I have American long tubes, high flow cats and x pipe, dynoed the car, Paxton SC got 6 RWHP/9RWTQ.

Mustang dyno and $1,700.00 for the complete job. A month ago had car a Atco Raceway and broke an axle along with cat internals ended up in the Y pipe. After replacing the axle car would not rev past 4,000 RPMs due too clog Y pipe.

CIMG3118.jpg

CIMG3116.jpg

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IMHO, long tubes are a waste of money. Much too expensive and a lot of PITA for the gains. I chose the Pypes shorty header, and I am pleased by the "bang" for my buck. Even if I decide to supercharge down the road, I have no plans for any additional exhaust mods.

 

You don't want to open the exhaust too much, our 281 CID needs some back-pressure for more combustion efficiency. Moreover, you need to preserve as much low RPM torque as possible. Sure, a dyno test may show HP gains at the high end, but what do you sacrifice in low end torque?

 

Just my .02C gents, carry on...

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Depends what your goals are. If you're going with a fixed displacement S/C then long-tubes, race cats and big pipes all the way back are the way to go. Shorty's will do very little. The whole idea is to make HP with the least restriction possible. Less restriction means less boost for the same HP and less HP used driving the S/C for a given HP-level. Less boost for a given HP-level means less intake heat and results more usable HP over a wider range of conditions (not just on the dyno after a cool-down).

 

NA is a different story as Mac pointed out.

 

Best to decide where you want to get to first -- in the long run it will be a lot cheaper that way. Just some things to think about.

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Man, so +2 for shorties and +2 for longs...... Anyone else? I had a Ford dealer say we didn't need either because of the X-pipe...

 

 

...well, he's sorta right ...we don't *need* either ;) ...dealers, what do they know? :hysterical:

 

Long tubes definately breath better but should be part of an overall plan to effectively judge their value/worth, imo. Both help, but long tubes are far more valuable in FI applications.

 

They will also benefit NA apps but won't help low-mid torque and will see HP at higher rpm if they're the only change. On the street that might not be of value. On a road course where you're always "in the band" they'll benefit an NA motor too.

 

Shorty's won't hurt low-mid torque but won't make much power either and have little benefit with S/Cs because they don't improve flow much at all.

 

Imo, it's always best to consider the overall intended use of the car (street/track/roacourse/weekend-warrior) and your power goals to eval pieces/parts because they work together differently for different overall purposes/solutions.

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I'm doing the shorty's for a couple of reasons.... I LOVE the mid-power band and hoping this really opens it up a bit more. I'm sure we all have our stretch of highway that we "love" to open them up on. I have several. It should be a little throatier when opening it up. And I got a hell of a deal on them.

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well, i want as much power i can get out of the engine without going SC. For now, i will be using it as my DD and the track once in a while. I want the added HP and TQ. Some people say i will probably gain around 20 hp to the wheel with the long tubes. If this is true, then im gonna do it. How much TQ will i gain? thx for the input guys... and Horsbyt... See u sunday..

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I recently put the JBA shorty headers on my car. the sound did not change at all.I'm sure i gained some hp and torque but i didn't put the car on the dyno before i put the header's on. I didn't feel any seat of the pants fell but if i gained 10 power,that would be fairly hard to feel.I could tell more difference with my brenspeed tune than the headers.Its all in how much you want to spend per horsepower.

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Hmmm...... well it'll be dyno'd on Sunday and I'll post. I'm on a pursuit for a N/A SGT and max HP. Heads/Cam are in the plans and likely to debut spring of 09. (as soon as Uncle Sam gives me my $$$ back!). All kidding aside, I don't really anticipate a HUGE difference from these headers. Nothing beats a solid tune as that seems the absolute "sure" way to get anything out of a N/A setup. Everything else is less than 10HP at best..... Aside from heads/cam/tune there's not much else to be had. I'm a little dismayed at the "no sound difference" especially during WOT.

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I have American long tubes, high flow cats and Y pipe, dynoed the car, Paxton SC got 6 RWHP/9RWTQ.

Mustang dyno and $1,700.00 for the complete job. A month ago had car a Atco Raceway and broke an axle along with cat internals ended up in the Y pipe. After replacing the axle car would not rev past 4,000 RPMs due too clog Y pipe.

CIMG3118.jpg

CIMG3116.jpg

 

Well, I guess this is the "best" thing that could happen eh? I'm amazed at a broken axle..... Slicks or your street tires?

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I installed the following on my "08 SGT (by Brenspeed ) and now have a Shelby GT worthy of the name plate.

 

Kooks long tube headers (more money BUT you don't have to drop them if and when you need to get at the clutch).

Kooks high flow CATS.

CORSA mufflers (great sound, very little/no drone @ 2000 RPM).

Since the boys at Brenspeed had the car, I <old schooled> it with a set of COMP "thumper cams" and phasers.

Steeda under-pullies.

Intake delete plates.

 

This course of action has transformed this car into a beast with a temperment. It has the sound and idle you'll never achieve with a blower.

It runs strong and is almost too loud?? Anyway, out on the street, it is an unbelievable event to witness. I just can't express to you all what this thing sounds like. The consensus it is a cross between a NHRA dragster and NASCAR.

 

Yes, the cams push the torque and H.P up the curve a bit. I plan to install a minimum of 3:73 gears next, to compensate.

 

The car dyno'd ~345 RWHP.

 

I would recommend long tube headers to anyone, BUT put good one's on..

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I didn't notice a huge difference in sound/power after installing my JBA shortys. I now wish I had gone with the long tubes.

I'd never touch the stock cats on any car, let alone this one. Most aftermarket cats are garbage. Ask any exhaust tech.

My Borla mufflers suck. Once I can sell them, I'm going with Bassani.

I'd like to do cams, heads, and Paxton blower eventually.

The only mod I've done that's been worth a damn has been the SCT Livewire and race tune from Bamachips.

 

Ken

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345 RWHP!

 

Congrats!

 

I love it when a plan comes together.

 

 

The whole package cost me ~$4500. Best money I ever spent on a car.

 

My understanding is that shorty headers are a waist of money. No real hoprsepower gain. Ok if just looking for "looks" under the hood. The stock factory headers are just as efficient as shorty's.

 

Long tubes and cats (X pipe) made a huge difference, although somewhat expensive. I initially decided to spend money on engine performance (cams, pullies/delete plates) and exhaust before spending money changing the appearance, via wheels/tires/brakes, etc. etc. Breenspeed supports Kooks headers and cats only, for a simple reason.... quality.

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