RUFDRAFT Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 Roush has produced this solution for wheel hop. Cost: $290.00 http://store.roushperformance.com/images/p.../pdf/401788.pdf Does anyone know of any other products like this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcain Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 check steeda's web page it's a much better product and is adjustable. http://www.steeda.com check out their uppper adjustable control arm. Also a set of subframe connectors will help stiffen things up. I've not used this part as I've not owned the S197 body style yet!!!!! Should be here on Tuesday according to the VOPC come on black beauty. This is the part I plan on installing on my 07 as I've heard great things about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashfearless Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Call me crazy, but I'm kind of diggin the wheel hop.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcain Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Yes i'll call you crazy, if you enjoy blown out rearends and extra wear and tear on drivetrain parts u-joints, axle seals bearings. Besides wheelhop is getting you no where in a hurry when your getting wheel hop your steering wheel is doing this You must refrain from wheel hop as it will tear things up. But then again maybe you enjoy replacing parts that fail prematurely due to your lack thereof lifting off the throttle??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUFDRAFT Posted October 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 I'm just guessing - but I think he's kidding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnut Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Yes i'll call you crazy, if you enjoy blown out rearends and extra wear and tear on drivetrain parts u-joints, axle seals bearings. Besides wheelhop is getting you no where in a hurry when your getting wheel hop your steering wheel is doing this You must refrain from wheel hop as it will tear things up. But then again maybe you enjoy replacing parts that fail prematurely due to your lack thereof lifting off the throttle??? I think its the paint thinner, there are a number of new products in Jegs and Summit catalogs. I would be interest in what the Evolution guys are doing as they running some serious stickies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashfearless Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 I would be interest in what the Evolution guys are doing as they running some serious stickies. Well, I was partially kidding. I don't encounter it enough I think to have it be a concern. I will ask Fred at Evolution when I see him on Saturday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratnacage Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Imagine the hand of God reaching down and grabbing your car by the nose and using the back end like a sledge hammer. That's wheel hop and a quick ticket to broken axles, differentials, etc. Strange that this topic should show up today. It just happens that my car was up on the rack today for some Invisishield (clearbra, etc), so I took the opportunity to take a few pics. On top of my "pumpkin" you can see the Steeda adjustable control arm. This is a critical piece especially if you've done anything to the suspension (I've lowered mine). It's very important to keep the pinion angle parallel (equal) to the angle of the trans output shaft. The tighter bushings also prevent the axle housing from recoiling as much on hard launches. Both of these features together prevent wheel hop. I've experienced wheel hop before, but after installing this control arm - there is absolutely zero wheel hop. The tires still spin in 1st and 2nd, and even just a bit of 3rd - but it's just clean spins, no jack-hammer. I might also add that even if you haven't touched the stock suspension, I would still recommend this piece as you can adjust the pinion angle to compensate for slight variances in stock installations and you still benefit from the stiffer bushings. It is important that it be installed by an experienced professional in my opinion, otherwise it's just a waste of money. I've posted additional pics on my thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcain Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 So Ruf, There you have it a person who has installed and agree's that this Steeda product is a great investment, As mentioned I can not personally tell you as I've not even seen my Mustang yet. I did call the VOPC today and they said it's on a railcar and should be here the week of the 21st. COME ON ALREADY!!!!! Damn it sucks waiting. I can't wait to see what the limits are of the new breed. My last stang was an 89LX Coupe. I miss the car dearly but there was no way I was ever going to be able to pass emissions in Colorado with so I had to part with it two years ago. I'll be honest after test driving one of the new GT's with 25mi on it I'm not fully impressed with it sheer power. My 89 would have run circles around it and been down the 1/4mi and back before it ever crossed the traps. But I guess dumping nearly $15,000 in a lil coupe will do that. I'm not planning on going that wild with this one. I mean hell I must keep the warranty valid for the 5yrs/60Kmi before touching the Motor I will however put a set of Tokico D-Specs with Eibach Progressive Rate Springs and a Pro 5.0 Shifter on it. Maybe a set of KOOK's Long Tubes with I'm sorry but an H-Pipe I like the deeper sound vs. the X-pipe and a set of Flowmasters will find it's way under the hood and chassis. Living at 5300' above sea level kills power. Even with traction control turned off the 07 I test drove wouldn't spin the tires in 1st gear sad. My 89 would pull the front tires off the ground in 1st and maybe even 2nd with a set of slicks, but this 07 is going to have to be modded to make it a grab yourself by the pants hang on type of ride. PROCHARGER is calling my bank account in the future. Ok I have no idea what this has too do with the topic in question so back to that. By looking at the Photo's I'd say that Steeda product is a much better product then the one you posted of interest, at least it's adjustable and appears to be built of much better steel. I'd say hold on to your wallet for the time being as there will soon be another company coming out with something better. Besides don't you live in MI? That car had better be in the garage sitting on JackStands till the roads are clear. I say screw it go buy the Roush SuperCharger that you want, this way you'll have too much power and all you'll do is spin no need to worry about wheel hop when the tires spin so fast that they never have a chance to grab. LOL J/K or am I????? Traction is good but so is going down WoodWard on the Woodward Ave cruise at 25mph and being able to light the tires up at free will without have to dump the clutch Keep us posted on what you decide to do I'd like to hear what worked out for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUFDRAFT Posted October 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Thanks, y'all. I'm calling Steeda when I get home today and get one inbound! I wonder if the Shelby's could use this piece, too. I think I remember some of them complaining about wheel hop. ruf - out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTAS Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Also check out www.bmrfabrication.com I'm not affiliated with them, but their parts have a high cost/value ratio in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUFDRAFT Posted October 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 The Steeda control arm is in. Now - when the cams/CAI/throttle body/and pulleys are in, we'll see how well it works! Let's ride, y'all! Remember, I've got that snobby neighbor with a C6.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted October 27, 2006 Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 Imagine the hand of God reaching down and grabbing your car by the nose and using the back end like a sledge hammer. That's wheel hop and a quick ticket to broken axles, differentials, etc. Strange that this topic should show up today. It just happens that my car was up on the rack today for some Invisishield (clearbra, etc), so I took the opportunity to take a few pics. On top of my "pumpkin" you can see the Steeda adjustable control arm. This is a critical piece especially if you've done anything to the suspension (I've lowered mine). It's very important to keep the pinion angle parallel (equal) to the angle of the trans output shaft. The tighter bushings also prevent the axle housing from recoiling as much on hard launches. Both of these features together prevent wheel hop. I've experienced wheel hop before, but after installing this control arm - there is absolutely zero wheel hop. The tires still spin in 1st and 2nd, and even just a bit of 3rd - but it's just clean spins, no jack-hammer. I might also add that even if you haven't touched the stock suspension, I would still recommend this piece as you can adjust the pinion angle to compensate for slight variances in stock installations and you still benefit from the stiffer bushings. It is important that it be installed by an experienced professional in my opinion, otherwise it's just a waste of money. I've posted additional pics on my thread. For installation does this just bolt in to existing holes or are these drilled & tapped? Also how does this work , what gives the down force on the rear housing????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUFDRAFT Posted October 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 It uses existing holes. There isn't any "downforce," it adjusts the angle of the pumpkin to compensate for the new angle caused by lowering springs. And - the bushing is stiffer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratnacage Posted October 27, 2006 Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 For installation does this just bolt in to existing holes or are these drilled & tapped? Also how does this work , what gives the down force on the rear housing????????? It's a direct replacement for the stock stamped steel piece. It's not really about down force, but more about limiting drive-line binding or something (any mechanical design engineers out there?). Enhancing the lower links is what will help weight transfer to the rear, thus increase down-force. The best article I could find is this: http://www.rpmoutlet.com/facts.htm#arms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUFDRAFT Posted October 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 Hey, Rat - I think you and I might be a good race. You in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratnacage Posted October 27, 2006 Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 Hey, Rat - I think you and I might be a good race. You in? BRING IT!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcain Posted October 27, 2006 Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 It's main function is this, 1. it replaces the stock piece of crap stamped steel with rubber bushing. It utilizes heavier duty steel that in some cases is machined (CNC style or Mig welded steel that is anodized to prevent rusting plus it looks cool) a Poly bushing replaced the rubber bushing which reduces vibration or shall I say it will actually increase the vibration that you hear through the floor as it is much stiffer but will cause less movement thus causing less wheel hop. 2. It's adjustable so that you can adjust the pinon angle that will reduce driveline vibration and binding. Number one reason for vibration from rearends and why u-joints fail prematurely is due to improper drive line angles after lowering a vehicle or lifting a vehicle. Adjustable control arms (Lower) do somthing simular only they help aid in traction control issues, yes they ruduce and even eliminate wheel hop all to gether but by moving the rear axle just a 1/4" forward increases the amount of weight transfer a lot. I have first hand knoweldge of this as I've adjusted more than one mustangs rearend geometry on more then one occartion. When I get my Stang I'll be replacing the rear trac-bar with an adjustable type and the same goes for the lower control arms, and upper control arm and I'll be adding sub-frame with torque box stiffeners to make the car more rigid. For the front I may just infact replace the whole K-member with a tubuler style not only to decrease weight but to stiffen things up there as well. I'm not building a drag car this time around it will be a car that can out handle most others and still launch at the drag strip with a set of sticky's. I've learned after many years of street racing and by the way watching many guys loose it street racing isn't worth it. I'm not saying it isn't fun to be able to bang a few gears from stop light to stop light when that vette pulls up but being able to pull the front tires off the ground and running 120+ down a 45mph street isn't in my bag anymore baby. 5 years ago yes my lil gray coupe would pull the tires off the ground in 1st and 2nd, run 12's on set of 555 Nitto's and that was without the 125 shot. It was a scary little ride, fun but scary as shit even more so with the bottle on. I remember one night I stuck $100 bill on the windshield gave my friend a ride and told him that if he could grab it through the first two gears he could have it. He was able to grab it at the end of 3rd into 4th and I told him it didn't count. LOL At anyrate I hope I've helped to explain how the upper control arms aids in wheel hop and rearend driveline geometry correction after a lowering springs have been installed. If someone does not believe that this is correct please correct me so I don't mislead anyone. I'm not sure how the trac-bar works on these new cars because I've not played with it yet. But I have a feeling it has a little to do with side to side movement and axle wrap during corners and launches as there is only one upper control arm and no quad shock setup in the rear as with the old Fox Bodied cars. I hope to do some reading while my car is being built by ford (once again) to see exactly what it does and how it effects the cars handlings. Anyone with info on this subject please add your comments. Thanks, Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcain Posted October 27, 2006 Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 Hey Ruf, When you get thos cams installed, hows about sending a wav. or mp3. file of the sound. If it doesn't have a chopy idle screw it. There's nothing cooler then the sound of potato potato potato though long tubes with no cats blowing out a set of good mufs. I really miss the sound of 9000RPM 347 Stroker motor that idle's at 1200RPM just to keep from stalling. Besides when you fire that thing up and hit the go peddle in the garage the neighbors had better know that something's coming. If not I say buy a Pro-Charger with a 9lb pully on it, if you can't hear the exhaust then you had better hear someone whistle as it passes by. I personlly love the sound a cam but I think this time around I'm going to have to go blown, the sound of gears and whistle that a Pro-Charger gives off is something to be heard and nothing to mess with when you get 25mpg and have close to 550hp on tap with the freaking A/C on. I've never had a blower but my buddy with an 03 GT had his installed by Don Walsh JR when we lived in farmington hills was so much fun to drive. I remember going through the BK drive through with his car and not having to turn it off to order and get this you could still hear the stock mach 460 stereo. My lil coupe couldn't go but 100mi on full tank and stereo was the sound of berrrrrr through a set flowmaster at 3200 RPMs down the Interstate damn 4:30gears. And sitting at a stop light required you darn near get out and wait because of solid motor mounts and huge hardly streetable cam. So I'm thinking the pissssss sound is for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shel-b001 Posted October 27, 2006 Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 It's a direct replacement for the stock stamped steel piece. It's not really about down force, but more about limiting drive-line binding or something (any mechanical design engineers out there?). Enhancing the lower links is what will help weight transfer to the rear, thus increase down-force. The best article I could find is this: http://www.rpmoutlet.com/facts.htm#arms Thanks Rat for the article. One other Question I see they are adjustable , is there a certain setting to keep the pinion inline ? Also does it effect the ride? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcain Posted October 27, 2006 Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 The best way to adjust it is to figure out what the pinion angle is from the factory and then once lowered adjust to factory specs. Another good rule of thumbs is to keep it at the same angle as the transmillsion outtershaft, or so i've been told. I used somwhere around 9deg on my foxbody and i wouldn't seem to think the new S197's would be that far off but then again who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratnacage Posted October 28, 2006 Report Share Posted October 28, 2006 Thanks Rat for the article. One other Question I see they are adjustable , is there a certain setting to keep the pinion inline ? Also does it effect the ride? It doesn't affect the ride. As far as angle, that's why I say to have an experienced pro do the install. It's not that expensive, but if it isn't done right it'll be useless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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