cobraracing Posted November 4, 2008 Report Share Posted November 4, 2008 Thanks rob, Is there any way to confirm? 3/36 is what I have heard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra GT Posted November 4, 2008 Report Share Posted November 4, 2008 The key to the warranty issue is what is stated in the TSB, "by the identified causal Part." If Ford determins this to be fly wheel and/or clutch they will say 12,000 miles/12 months. This is the battle I am fighting now. The Ford dealer says the clutch is worn and it is not covered. I got some information from Grabber and went back to Ford stating the rusty input shaft and hub size caused the warpage and clutch wear. He is on the phone now with SVT getting the word from them. I would suggest to take it as soon as possibe. Ours has 21K miles on it and now the clutch slips as soon as you hit 3/4 psi of boost. The clutch is completely worn out. The minimum if it is not covered will be $3k from Ford. I am getting pricing from Lamotta now. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2008 The key to the warranty issue is what is stated in the TSB, "by the identified causal Part." If Ford determins this to be fly wheel and/or clutch they will say 12,000 miles/12 months. This is the battle I am fighting now. The Ford dealer says the clutch is worn and it is not covered. I got some information from Grabber and went back to Ford stating the rusty input shaft and hub size caused the warpage and clutch wear. He is on the phone now with SVT getting the word from them. I would suggest to take it as soon as possibe. Ours has 21K miles on it and now the clutch slips as soon as you hit 3/4 psi of boost. The clutch is completely worn out. The minimum if it is not covered will be $3k from Ford. I am getting pricing from Lamotta now. Paul So Paul...what did they say after they took you tranny out and inspected the clutch ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChipBeck Posted November 6, 2008 Report Share Posted November 6, 2008 Build date: 7/22/08 - Old style flywheel (nodular iron with slots)Build date: 8/27/08 - New style flywheel (non slotted thicker 3100 series steel)[/color] Grabber, The door sticker on my GT500 shows it was built 09/08 and the last #s of my VIN are 133357. Is there any chance it has the old flywheel and both types were used to build engine/transmission assemblies for a period of time or would Ford use all assemblies with the old parts and then every car produced after that would have the new stuff? Would it be a waste of my time to take my car in to get this checked? My clutch chatters when hot and my car has 1000 miles on it. Chip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2008 Grabber, The door sticker on my GT500 shows it was built 09/08 and the last #s of my VIN are 133357. Is there any chance it has the old flywheel and both types were used to build engine/transmission assemblies for a period of time or would Ford use all assemblies with the old parts and then every car produced after that would have the new stuff? Would it be a waste of my time to take my car in to get this checked? My clutch chatters when hot and my car has 1000 miles on it. Chip Since we have narrowed down the window below I would not expect old flywheels to be going in after 8/27. If I were you, I would read the first couple posts in this thread and inspect your unit like I describe. That way you can be sure. We now have 2 members reporting out. Build date: 7/22/08 - Old style flywheel (nodular iron with slots) Build date: 8/27/08 - New style flywheel (non slotted thicker 3100 series steel) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra GT Posted November 6, 2008 Report Share Posted November 6, 2008 So Paul...what did they say after they took you tranny out and inspected the clutch ? Rob, They did not say exactly what they saw. When I was told they ordered the TSB parts, I asked if it was determined to be under the TSB. There was a long pause. Service rep stated it is diffucult to tell.....we decided to pick it up. :happy feet: Not exactly sure what that means....but who cares. I do know they were on the phone for a while with Ford/SVT about the determination of identifying the TSB. I will ask once I see the bill and pick up the car. If I had to guess they could not prove the clutch was not dragging. I would say the arguments given to me by Mr. Grabber were strong and they could not counter! Thanks Rob! Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2008 Rob, They did not say exactly what they saw. When I was told they ordered the TSB parts, I asked if it was determined to be under the TSB. There was a long pause. Service rep stated it is diffucult to tell.....we decided to pick it up. :happy feet: Not exactly sure what that means....but who cares. I do know they were on the phone for a while with Ford/SVT about the determination of identifying the TSB. I will ask once I see the bill and pick up the car. If I had to guess they could not prove the clutch was not dragging. I would say the arguments given to me by Mr. Grabber were strong and they could not counter! Thanks Rob! Paul Paul, I'm glad our talk helped. Now what was the outcome of this Repair ? Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdscooby Posted November 14, 2008 Report Share Posted November 14, 2008 (edited) Just got done looking. The sticker on the door says 8/08 for build but there is a date on the window sticker that says 7/31/08 on the bottom left middle, I am assuming that is the build date, correct me if I am wrong. I have the old flywheel. Edited November 14, 2008 by jdscooby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobra 07 Posted November 15, 2008 Report Share Posted November 15, 2008 Since we have narrowed down the window below I would not expect old flywheels to be going in after 8/27. If I were you, I would read the first couple posts in this thread and inspect your unit like I describe. That way you can be sure. We now have 2 members reporting out. Build date: 7/22/08 - Old style flywheel (nodular iron with slots) Build date: 8/27/08 - New style flywheel (non slotted thicker 3100 series steel) Build date: 8/12/08 - Old style flywheel s.n. 129368 - what a bummer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2008 Build date: 8/12/08 - Old style flywheel s.n. 129368 - what a bummer We now have 3 members reporting out. Build date: 7/22/08 - Old style flywheel (nodular iron with slots) Build date: 8/12/08 - Old style flywheel (sn 129368 nodular iron with slots) Build date: 8/27/08 - New style flywheel (non slotted thicker 3100 series steel) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2008 Build date: 8/12/08 - Old style flywheel s.n. 129368 - what a bummer We appreciate your info. Where did you get the s.n. 129368 ? Did you get a visual on the flywheel ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobra 07 Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 The s/n is only the last 6 # --which is the important # --being 09 is 6 ft high (on a lift) and covered the # came off the dealers sales invoice To make sure of which flywheel - it was real easy the remove a couple bolts from the flywheel inspection lplate and get a GOOD view For $1695. for a storage lift -- it sure beats laying on the floor and you can put 2 cars in 1 spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigo Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 For $1695. for a storage lift -- it sure beats laying on the floor and you can put 2 cars in 1 spot. I'm looking at lifts also. Can you tell me what brand you have and any pros or cons. Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobra 07 Posted November 17, 2008 Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 (edited) I'm looking at lifts also. Can you tell me what brand you have and any pros or cons I looked at the Talyn FP7K-XLT four post at the Portland Or. store and liked . www.directlift.com But for some dumb reason (maybe because they bargined a little) I went with . They are a """"customer no service after they get your money"""" www.americanautomovtiveequipment.com XLT Need the extra lenght to do service work on my exten cab w/8' box p/u. It barely fits by a couple inches. The GT-500 has lots of room. The x-long is a big plus. I'am 6'2 and it goes higher than I need. Also they come w/4 wheels for moving it one way or the other. It uses it's own weight to lift the four corner posts off the floor for moving purposes. After 40 years of using jacks and stands and ramps and creepers and cardboard , it's a pleasure to stand up under the car the and do my thing. Plus the wife is happy to have a frostfree windows in the mornings (winter time of course) before she goes to work (helps w/the cobra's payments). Got to keep them happy. And that's the biggest PLUS Edited November 17, 2008 by cobra 07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svtride Posted November 17, 2008 Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 For $1695. for a storage lift -- it sure beats laying on the floor and you can put 2 cars in 1 spot. I'm looking at lifts also. Can you tell me what brand you have and any pros or cons. Craig Check out Revolution lifts www.revolutionlifts.com/ They are the enthusiast subsidiary of Rotary Lift www.rotarylift.com. The pro lift supplier out of Indiana. I have their larger 4 post lift (7k lbs) and a Rotary 2 post lift (10K lbs, 12 ft ceiling required). Installed myself over a weekend with a couple of buddies to help move the larger bits. Can't see doing without them. Revolution also offers a smaller 4 post lift, 110V (also offered in 220v) which works with garages with 10 ft ceilings. Any less then 10ft and you won't get 2 cars in one spot. They have lots of back up safety features and meet all OHSA and industry safety requirements. Order the extended ramps from the get go as you'll drag your front end once with the standard. It be cheaper also. SVTRIDE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tispco Posted November 18, 2008 Report Share Posted November 18, 2008 Check out Revolution lifts www.revolutionlifts.com/ They are the enthusiast subsidiary of Rotary Lift www.rotarylift.com. The pro lift supplier out of Indiana. I have their larger 4 post lift (7k lbs) and a Rotary 2 post lift (10K lbs, 12 ft ceiling required). Installed myself over a weekend with a couple of buddies to help move the larger bits. Can't see doing without them. Revolution also offers a smaller 4 post lift, 110V (also offered in 220v) which works with garages with 10 ft ceilings. Any less then 10ft and you won't get 2 cars in one spot. They have lots of back up safety features and meet all OHSA and industry safety requirements. Order the extended ramps from the get go as you'll drag your front end once with the standard. It be cheaper also. SVTRIDE +1 on the Revolution lifts. I installed one for my boss. It is a well built lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra GT Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 (edited) Paul, I'm glad our talk helped. Now what was the outcome of this Repair ? Rob We got the car back yesterday after +2weeks, thanks to Greenway (Bruce) for agreeing to pick up this under the TSB! It was not easy due to the mileage (21k, clutch warranted for 12k). I would suggest others that suspect their clutch dragging to take it immediately! the dragging effect will eat up the material until it begins to slip. The cultch kit alone is $1750, not including the flywheel or the input shaft. You must not give up claiming the "Clutch Dragging" is the problem. I had to agree to a $500 treardown fee to prove my point. They claimed it was difficult to tell and they decided to cover it. It is much easier to prove if it is not slipping and there is low miles. Invoice for the parts is attached. Paul GT500_TSB.pdf GT500_TSB.pdf Edited November 20, 2008 by Cobra GT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 I'm glad it all worked out. The parts list shows how spendy the parts are. Thanks for posting that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigo Posted November 21, 2008 Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 Thanks everyone. I'll check them out!! Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USBlueStage2 Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 (edited) I have an '09 that I picked up in late September. How can I figure out build date? Is it on window sticker? Edited November 25, 2008 by USBlueStage2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilmmr Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 Open the driver's side door, it's on the frame, will give the month. Mine was August of 08, I found the dealer's bill in the glove box. It gave the date of August 15th when it left the factory. I understand that August 15th seems to be the cut off date, the last of the 500's that had the old fly wheel. There is a thread in this forum which will tell you how to see if you have the new flywheel when you have the oil changed and can look under the car. I'm checking mine at the next oil change. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 There is a thread in this forum which will tell you how to see if you have the new flywheel when you have the oil changed and can look under the car. This is the thread that shows that. It's in post #1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hopsgt500 Posted November 26, 2008 Report Share Posted November 26, 2008 (edited) Ok. I had my oil changed and had a chance to check the flywheel and I am sad to report, although it wasn't unexpected, that my flywheel is the old style. I have not had one ounce of trouble, it shifts like a dream. I did have some clutch chatter at first but it is gone now so I figure it was a break in period for me and the clutch. Now have 2935 miles on this awesome machine. On a side note I looked for the tag on the transmission and couldn't find it. Looked all over unless it is up further. I will look again next time I have it up on the lift. Edited November 26, 2008 by Hopsgt500 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2008 Ok. I had my oil changed and had a chance to check the flywheel and I am sad to report, although it wasn't unexpected, that my flywheel is the old style. I have not had one ounce of trouble, it shifts like a dream. I did have some clutch chatter at first but it is gone now so I figure it was a break in period for me and the clutch. Now have 2935 miles on this awesome machine. On a side note I looked for the tag on the transmission and couldn't find it. Looked all over unless it is up further. I will look again next time I have it up on the lift. .....and it will continue to shift like a dream as long as you don't heat the flywheel up to a high temp. that will cause it to warp and then prematurely wear out your clutch pads. Your 2008 has the revised tranny with the revised input shaft in the tranny. Your 2008 also got the teflon lube on it during the installation at the factory. The revised parts that you do not have are: 1. The nickle hub clutch. 2. The revised flywheel. The nickle hub clutch does not rust and will continue to release on time for years to come. Take a look at the old clutch hub made out of steel and you will see how they rust up. The Teflon lube will prevent the rust from building up and it should protect the hub from rust for along time, but the nickle hub center is a bullit proof rust preventor. If you drive your car alot then the continued use does not allow the rust to form on the splines as well. Keep an eye on your car and if you notice a problem....take it in and get it repaired with the TSB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2008 Here's the new nickle hub clutch. Look at the center and you will see the nickle center hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2008 Here's what the iron center clutch hub looks like. Look at the rust on the splines at about 2600 miles. The rust causes the clutch not to release on time because it causes drag as the tranny inputshaft slides in and out from it. Click to enlarge and see the rust: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted November 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2008 You can see the new flywheel is much thicker than the old one. The new one is sitting centered on the cardboard box: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hopsgt500 Posted November 30, 2008 Report Share Posted November 30, 2008 .....and it will continue to shift like a dream as long as you don't heat the flywheel up to a high temp. that will cause it to warp and then prematurely wear out your clutch pads. Your 2008 has the revised tranny with the revised input shaft in the tranny. Your 2008 also got the teflon lube on it during the installation at the factory. The revised parts that you do not have are: 1. The nickle hub clutch. 2. The revised flywheel. The nickle hub clutch does not rust and will continue to release on time for years to come. Take a look at the old clutch hub made out of steel and you will see how they rust up. The Teflon lube will prevent the rust from building up and it should protect the hub from rust for along time, but the nickle hub center is a bullit proof rust preventor. If you drive your car alot then the continued use does not allow the rust to form on the splines as well. Keep an eye on your car and if you notice a problem....take it in and get it repaired with the TSB. Thanks Grabber, My GT500 is a daily driver and I will continue to enjoy it and will keep an eye out for any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USBlueStage2 Posted November 30, 2008 Report Share Posted November 30, 2008 August of '08 build date - time to take a look under the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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