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SGT suspension?


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What exactly is different between the SGT's suspension and the stock Mustang GT?

Also, I'd like to improve the handling of my SGT, beyond tires.

Does anyone have a list of commonly upgraded suspension components (or add ons)?

Thanks in advance for any help offered!

 

Ken

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I believe it's the FR3 Handling Pack from Ford Racing

 

- Dampers M-18000-A

- Lowering Springs M-5300-K

- Sway Bars M-5490-A

- Strut Tower Brace M-20201-S197

Great, thanks for that.

I assume that this stuff is best left alone.

I've read a lot of posts referring to a 'watts link' set up.

Are there any other add-ons or upgrades that are common to these cars?

Thanks again.

 

Ken

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I have the same questions/concerns.

 

How does the FR3 handling package compare to those systems we see advertised, ...say Eibach springs and Koni Sport adjustables?

 

I've seen talk about upper and lower rear control arms, adjustable camber plates, etc.

 

I'd also like to see a list that one could use to progressively upgrade the suspension, ...if that makes sense!

 

With all the aftermarket parts available it's hard (to us newbies) to tell which of them are targeted toward regular Mustangs, and which would be of benifet to us SGT folks.

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I have the same questions/concerns.

 

How does the FR3 handling package compare to those systems we see advertised, ...say Eibach springs and Koni Sport adjustables?

 

I've seen talk about upper and lower rear control arms, adjustable camber plates, etc.

 

I'd also like to see a list that one could use to progressively upgrade the suspension, ...if that makes sense!

 

With all the aftermarket parts available it's hard (to us newbies) to tell which of them are targeted toward regular Mustangs, and which would be of benifet to us SGT folks.

+1000

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I have the same questions/concerns.

 

How does the FR3 handling package compare to those systems we see advertised, ...say Eibach springs and Koni Sport adjustables?

 

I've seen talk about upper and lower rear control arms, adjustable camber plates, etc.

 

I'd also like to see a list that one could use to progressively upgrade the suspension, ...if that makes sense!

 

With all the aftermarket parts available it's hard (to us newbies) to tell which of them are targeted toward regular Mustangs, and which would be of benifet to us SGT folks.

 

A very, very good job of balancing the suspension was done on the SGT, as you will find out at a track day event. Pay no attention to the slight squealing of its tires and squeeze the go pedal a bit more and notice how well controlled the suspension is at the traction limit. It will still steer where its pointed without any drama. Don't screw this up by replacing single suspension pieces rather than a sorted complete balanced system. I would only consider front camber plates for track day use.

 

Wayne

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A very, very good job of balancing the suspension was done on the SGT, as you will find out at a track day event. Pay no attention to the slight squealing of its tires and squeeze the go pedal a bit more and notice how well controlled the suspension is at the traction limit. It will still steer where its pointed without any drama. Don't screw this up by replacing single suspension pieces rather than a sorted complete balanced system. I would only consider front camber plates for track day use.

 

Wayne

I'm really not looking to replace any of the handling pack that my SGT came equipped with and certainly not to 'screw up' my beautiful car or it's handling.

I did notice that the car was much more squirrely than I expected during the 5 total hours of track time I had a week ago. I'm sure the tires are the primary culprit, but I can't imagine that there isn't anything else I could do to make it handle as I'd like it to.

Camber plates? Great, got it. Anyone else ADD anything worthwhile to their suspension?

 

Ken

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Control arms? Adjustable 3rd link?

 

The best bang for the buck on this car for road course in order of dollars and fun yielded is as follows :

 

1. Steeda Billet Lower Control Arms ( or equivilant) ................Easy to install , Car launches in a controlled manor .

 

2. Adjustable Upper Control Link ............................................A little less movement of the rear end , Not easy to install.

 

3. Fays 2 Whatts Link...............Not that much money , more work to install, enters and exits turns like a race car should

 

4. Coast Aluminum Drive Shaft ..................Most noticable change , no vibs , no noise , does not bottom out, and looks so good

 

5. 14" Baer Brakes & 20" Razor Wheels With Falon Tires ...........expensive but makes it feel like a go cart , brakes don't fade

 

6. MSD Ignition Coils .................................................................Crsiper sound to the motor.

 

7. This month I have installed a SPEC Aluminum Fly Wheel and Stage -1 Clutch ........I wanted to do it my self but did not have

unfortunately the guys that did it didn't get the Release Bearing right , and it makes an ugly growl , I provided it new from

Ford as recommended by SPEC so I will be getting that fixed .

 

8. I have the car at Coast Driveline and Gear in Ventura Ca. getting the diff changed to a Eaton

Locker with 3.73 R&P.

 

9. I have the Chip Beck / Heath Hood Soop comming.

 

I like driving road course's but it is hard on equipment so far these mods seem to make the car handle better maybe more engine mods when I drive better. By the why can anyone tell me if Bilstiens or Konis would make a noticable improvment in this car ????/

 

ZDS

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Ken, just some additional thoughts on where I think you're coming from with your suspension question (dunno).

 

You could also upgrade to a coil-over type suspension. I don't think FRP offers one but the Steeda setup is popular with who occasionally track the car but also want a streetable set-up.

 

However, once you leave the SVT-engineered/FRP woumb (even tho Eibach makes the springs in the S/M-GT handling pack it's design and spring-rates are spec'd by FRP-SVT for the M/S-GT) you're then on your own to pick proper spring-rates and damaping for your application -- to make it work right. Steeda would gladly help point you in the right direction, but you need to know what your goal is -- target weights, and use goals. In general going stiffer on the front and lighter on the rear helps the rear track the front under broader conditions -- most go too stiff in the back, imo. The big advantage of coil-overs is that you can adjust the suspension at the track, and then adjust it back for the ride home -- both ride-height and damping rates are typically adjustable. There are many different dampers available -- dual-adjustable let you set adjust both compression and rebound for the particular application (track, street) and individual course characteristics. Auxiliary reservoir shocks are for serious track use. There are other good brands but Steeda is highly regarded for street-track use at reasonable prices.

 

Some set-ups let you dial in (using specific slugs in the front strut hub-mounts) that you can then dial-in more precisely for street/track use up on the strut towers with compatible camber-plates without having to touch the strut hub-mounts again.

 

There's also setups primarily for road-racing (not as street-friendly) like from Griggs -- very pricey but you can get to 1.05G if your budget permits ...you get what you pay for.

 

Just to lend a perspective of continuity... there's a whole range of options in the aftermarket from stock on up. The FRP Handling Pack on the M/S-GT is Ford engineered to modestly raise the bar with predictable and fairly-neutral handling but is still very much a street-biased compromise -- great for most folks and some occasional non-competition track fun (with upgraded brakes and tires recommended). Then there's the next step-up to the middle-ground of streetable adjustable coil-over set-ups (e.g Steeda, others) but you are taking responsibility for 'engineering the set-up to your specific goals with a vendor's recommendations/assistance. And then there's all-out racing set-ups (e.g. Griggs, others) that are really not street-friendly but can raise handling slot-car-like levels.

 

Of course if you ad more power, you'll also want more cooling, better/bigger brakes (the S-GT brakes don't last on the track), chassis/suspenstion strengthing, etc... Think about and integrated approach because everything affects everything else. I mention that beacuse you'll spend a lot more money getting to where you want to be with your set-up if you try to do it incrementally by 'discovering' your goals as you mod -- i.e. without general goal in mind. If you pre-think about how much track and how serious you intend your track fun to be and then design to that general goal and considered tradeoffs, you'll spend less getting there and can do it incrementally because you'll be considering the big picture from the start and just moving to it in stages without tossing a lot of 'mistakes' along the way. Most knowledgeable vendors are happy to discuss your goals long before you purchase anything because they realize that saving you money by helping you achieve your goals with the right pieces will make you a happy customer who will come back as you work toward those goals, and if they should change in the future. Just some thoughts/things to consider...

 

There are quite a few folks on here, Stang Mafia and other 'stang sites with solid track experience and various suspensions/mods who can help you with specific component questions too but only you can decide on your needs and basic goals for the car. Page at Stillen/AP Racing (site vendor) has been a great sounding board on calipers/discs/pads and what the tradeoffs are for various applications and intended use.

 

Imo, it's better to take your time and ask around (like you're doing) and think things thru, and a more complete picture of both your goals and your options will ventually become clear.

Good luck! --Dan

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Good luck! --Dan

Dan, you are the MAN! All of that info is exactly what I was looking for.

I know suspensions in general and I know many of the products that are available for these cars, but I was having difficulty differentiating the race only from the street only to the middle ground stuff.

Your post helped to clear most of that up.

Personally, my goal is somewhere in the middle. I drive this car a lot and need to keep it streetable. However, I live in a climate where going to the track 11 months out of the year isn't an unreasonable expectation.

I'm not a guy that races for anything other than the fun of it, however, so setting up any car I own, let alone this one, strictly for racing wouldn't be very prudent.

I'll definitely be in touch with Steeda this week for a little more direction, but again, I really appreciate the time you took to detail your thoughts out!

 

Ken

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The best bang for the buck on this car for road course in order of dollars and fun yielded is as follows :

 

1. Steeda Billet Lower Control Arms ( or equivilant) ................Easy to install , Car launches in a controlled manor .

 

2. Adjustable Upper Control Link ............................................A little less movement of the rear end , Not easy to install.

 

3. Fays 2 Whatts Link...............Not that much money , more work to install, enters and exits turns like a race car should

 

4. Coast Aluminum Drive Shaft ..................Most noticable change , no vibs , no noise , does not bottom out, and looks so good

 

5. 14" Baer Brakes & 20" Razor Wheels With Falon Tires ...........expensive but makes it feel like a go cart , brakes don't fade

 

6. MSD Ignition Coils .................................................................Crsiper sound to the motor.

 

7. This month I have installed a SPEC Aluminum Fly Wheel and Stage -1 Clutch ........I wanted to do it my self but did not have

unfortunately the guys that did it didn't get the Release Bearing right , and it makes an ugly growl , I provided it new from

Ford as recommended by SPEC so I will be getting that fixed .

 

8. I have the car at Coast Driveline and Gear in Ventura Ca. getting the diff changed to a Eaton

Locker with 3.73 R&P.

 

9. I have the Chip Beck / Heath Hood Soop comming.

 

I like driving road course's but it is hard on equipment so far these mods seem to make the car handle better maybe more engine mods when I drive better. By the why can anyone tell me if Bilstiens or Konis would make a noticable improvment in this car ????/

 

ZDS

 

Any reason you'd suggest the Fays 2 over the Steeda watts-linkage?

Thanks a lot for helping me out!

 

Ken

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I too have the bug and am learning a lot from the folks here.

 

My goal has been to have a car that few "normal" cars can hang with on the street or casual track. (I have several friends with Corvettes)

The 1st thing I did was upgrade brakes (with Pages help) to AP rotors, perf pads and ss lines. Definitely the best thing I've done. I then got the CS69's (future big brakes?) and BFG KDW's. Awesome!

Then the Coast aluminum DS and LFP adjustable UCA. ***One thing to consider, no seems to know exactly where to set the pinion angle. As you gain HP (SC...) this will need to be reset.

I look to finish my suspension with a 2-watt link and LCA and camber plates. I want to add SC next year, but finances may slow that goal. If not, I may tune to gain LuLu-like performance. Better motor mounts etc...

 

There is a lot of obvious options for the rear suspension, but not so much for the front. Can someone suggest alternatives for the front. Maybe move the battery to the rear?

 

Thanks

Dan

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Any reason you'd suggest the Fays 2 over the Steeda watts-linkage?

Thanks a lot for helping me out!

 

Ken

 

The Steeda one looks great but it's brand new , and I'd doubt many people have used it , The Fays 2 has been around since the S197 came out and there is alot of people using them , I set mine up my self , and when I needed a question answered I just called Jim Fay and he would take a smuch time to talk to as required , he is extemely easy to talk with and his watts link works. I will tell you the only thing that I had any issue with is that the exhaust pipe as it archs over the top of the axle housing on both sides slightly contacted the watts main frame leaving a slight dent , in the pipe ,but insignificant really. Otherwise it actually makes my cars street ride better on the 20" wheels and tires.

 

I'm sure from the solid quality looks of Steedas product it will soon have a track record to examine ............but it just wasn't availible a year ago.

 

ZDS

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What exactly is different between the SGT's suspension and the stock Mustang GT?

Also, I'd like to improve the handling of my SGT, beyond tires.

Does anyone have a list of commonly upgraded suspension components (or add ons)?

Thanks in advance for any help offered!

 

Ken

 

I've got almost 500 miles on my 08 GT/SC so far and before I ever drove the car I was thinking that I wasn't going to like the ride based on how it was coming but so far I have to say that I'm surprised at how well it handles. I think its a little too bumpy for me meaning I'd like firmer shocks and it doesn't grip as well as I want in the turns, but these are easy fixes. The grip in the turns may be due to the Nitto's which I'd like to change but overall very nice ride. Anyone want to buy my Nitto's, let me know...

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I was referring to the shocks.

 

S-GTs have the FRPP FR1 power-pak and FR3 Handling Pack that includes revalved struts and shocks but they're a mild step-up focussed on reatining comfort with better control. The Tokico D-spec adjustables are a nice step-up but still suitable for the street and are a popular mod on the GT500s too.

 

Dan

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I was referring to the shocks.

Snipped from a web magazine article...

 

The Shelby GT driving dynamics are fine tuned with the Ford Racing Handling Pack, which was developed by the same engineers that developed the Ford Racing FR500C, which won the 2005 Grand-Am Cup Championship. New coil springs drop the overall ride height by an inch-and-a-half for a more aggressive stance and reduced body roll. Stiffer dampers and front swaybar further enhance cornering feel and body control. To showcase the key performance modifications, Ford Racing painted all the key suspension components, including the damper, spring, and swaybar Ford Racing Blue.

 

SGTs have the FRP 3 handling pack installed by SAI. They are not called "shocks" in the kit, rather "dampers". Check your suspension, everything replaced by SAI should be painted blue.

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My brother suggested the Tokico D-Spec shocks as the first suspension mod.

Anyone swap their stock shocks? I'm honestly really surprised that the SGT's weren't upgraded at SAI.

 

Ken

 

Ken,

 

Your brother is correct. Install D-Specs, at $503.00 delivered, they are a bargain.

 

Next, install billet LCAs w/ relocation brackets and an adjustable UCA. then have your pinion angle set to factory specs.

 

You are looking at about a $1000 total and you will be really happy with the result. A marked improvement over stock SGT.

 

Michael

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Ken,

 

Your brother is correct. Install D-Specs, at $503.00 delivered, they are a bargain.

 

Next, install billet LCAs w/ relocation brackets and an adjustable UCA. then have your pinion angle set to factory specs.

 

You are looking at about a $1000 total and you will be really happy with the result. A marked improvement over stock SGT.

 

Michael

OK cools, thanks for the input. I just ordered the D-specs. Hopefully I can get those Steeda control arms soon.

 

ken

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Snipped from a web magazine article...

 

The Shelby GT driving dynamics are fine tuned with the Ford Racing Handling Pack, which was developed by the same engineers that developed the Ford Racing FR500C, which won the 2005 Grand-Am Cup Championship. New coil springs drop the overall ride height by an inch-and-a-half for a more aggressive stance and reduced body roll. Stiffer dampers and front swaybar further enhance cornering feel and body control. To showcase the key performance modifications, Ford Racing painted all the key suspension components, including the damper, spring, and swaybar Ford Racing Blue.

 

SGTs have the FRP 3 handling pack installed by SAI. They are not called "shocks" in the kit, rather "dampers". Check your suspension, everything replaced by SAI should be painted blue.

 

FYI My dampers are black...08SGT1062 Vert.

Not FRPP?

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OK cools, thanks for the input. I just ordered the D-specs. Hopefully I can get those Steeda control arms soon.

 

ken

 

You ever ride in a 05-09 with the D-Specs? Had them on my 06 GT daily driver w/ Steeda Sport Springs and the whole ride was crap! Took it all off and replaced everything with Eibach's Pro-kit + and ride is excellent now. I wouldn't put Steeda's crap on anything.

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I think the adjustable Tokicos are a good product, but springs that are too stiff or too short or both can give you a crappy ride. Many aftermarket springs are a bit too short for a nice 'look' and then made overly stiff to keep it off the snubbers. A less radical drop in the back with softer springs is far better, and then adjustoing the dampers to properly manage suspension travel is a better way to go, imo.

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You ever ride in a 05-09 with the D-Specs? Had them on my 06 GT daily driver w/ Steeda Sport Springs and the whole ride was crap! Took it all off and replaced everything with Eibach's Pro-kit + and ride is excellent now. I wouldn't put Steeda's crap on anything.

Did you ever try adjusting the adjustable shocks, before tossing it all out the window?

My brother's GT500 has the D-specs and I love the way his car handles.

I can't wait to get mine installed.

 

Ken

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Did you ever try adjusting the adjustable shocks, before tossing it all out the window?

My brother's GT500 has the D-specs and I love the way his car handles.

I can't wait to get mine installed.

 

Ken

 

Did I ever try adjusting... :censored::censored: , umm, yep and had Steeda adjust them 3 times and ride was still crap. I'd take Koni's and Bilstein's every time! Actually, on the 06 with the Eibach Pro-kit + and I'm using Eibach dampers and considering that are probably $200-$300 cheaper than Tokico's, no brainer. And I did say it was probably Steeda's springs...

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