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SHELBY GAUGE CLUSTER FOR GT 500


dupuyf

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HAS ANYBODY INSTALLED THE SHELBY GAUGE CLUSTER ON THERE GT 500

HOW HARD WAS IT, IF THE SHOP INSTALLED IT WHAT DID THEY CHARGE

 

 

THANKS

FD

 

I did mine. Took a few days. Not so hard, but takes patience. The key is not to kink the boost tubing. Once you do, it's splicing time. Can give more insight if you like.

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I did mine. Took a few days. Not so hard, but takes patience. The key is not to kink the boost tubing. Once you do, it's splicing time. Can give more insight if you like.

 

 

SURE IF YOU CAN , DID YOU HAVE TO DRILL ANY HOLES TO RUN THE

WIRES AND TUBE

 

FD

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I have thinking about installing it as well, but would really appreciate a step by step from somene who has don it so I better determine the difficulty. Anyone willing would be greatly appreciated.

And please, don't respond with..." there are threads on this...".

I can never find s*** from the SEARCH bar.

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I like esoteric gauges too, but I think duplicating an existing gauge (like boost) is pointless. Also I think I'd be watching the two gauges together to see if they both said the same thing.

 

Does the Shelby cluster come with three gauges that aren't duplicates of what's already installed in the car (including a clock)?

 

It also occurs to me that the Shelby cluster may be a nice way to shield the Shelby-signed plaque from direct sunlight, preserving Carroll's magic-marker signature from fading. Right now that plaque is almost always hit by the sun.

 

Michael

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Shelby gages come with three gages (boost, fuel press, oil press).

 

Following the instructions for the most part is good. No drilling required. Disconnect negative battery cable.

 

When feeding the wires/tubing down through the vent, first run a heavy gage wire (feeder) up from under the dash throught the small hole they indicate. Hard to see but it's there. Then tape your wires/tubing to the heavy gage wire and slowly pull down. I used a coil plastic wrap on the wires at the back of the gage mount to blend in with the dash.

 

The tubing coils real good so be careful with it. Once you kink it, you'll have to splice in a double female connector or replace the entire length of tubing.

 

When wiring in the gages, the excess wire they tell you to cut will be reused in the eng bay. (wires/tubing not long enough to properly dress the eng bay, my opinion).

 

Run the wires under the dash pretty much as decribed in directions, making all connections where they say. I then ran the wires/tubing along the wall panel and through the rubber boot nipple they tell you to cut. Here i used the heavy gage wire again to feed them through. I fed the heavy wire down from the eng bay (in the corner by the firewall, drivers side. There's a hole there). Pulled it through the rubber nipple, then taped all my wires/tubing to it. (or you can do wires first then tubing second). A second person is highly recommended at this point to help pull while you feed (again, slowly to prevent kinking the tubing).

 

This area takes time and patience..you'll be on your back down there for a bit.

 

Once all are ran through the rubber nipple, it's just a matter of running the wires where needed in the eng bay. Once you've reached the end of your wire run, you'll want to splice in the remainig wire to continue running. (Your choice on how well you want to dress the eng up). But you will need additional wire to do it right, along with additional tubing and fittings to reach all points correctly. Unless Shelby changed the length since my purchase, you can get this all at local auto stores. The wire is very small, so splice carefully.

 

I used double female elec connectors to splice the wires together, then dripped in some liquid elec tape to seal both ends (liquid elec tape mainly used in outboard eng's).

 

When running your wires to the pass side of the eng, make sure you have plenty of slack to keep clear of the SC bypass valve (it's hot).

 

Remove the stock fuel sender and install the adapter with oring & plug on the fuel rail. Use white grease on the oring. It's a tight fit. Let it slide in or else you could cut the oring.

 

NOTE: If your running Evo fuel rails, you'll need additional tubing and a 90 degree elbow to attach the shelby sender to the adapter on the rails. There's not enough clearance between the sender and the mounting bolts on the rails. Or install the sender in one of the extra plugged holes in the rails. If using Lethal rails, their adapter gives required clearance. Stock rails, no issue.

 

Attach your boost tubing using the supplied "t".

 

Oil Sender Unit.

Jack the car up and remove the driver side tire.

Remove the plug on top of the oil filter housing, and install the supplied fitting. Best angle to get at it is through the wheel well, but it's tight, and takes a bit of time. (not much room for wrench movement) Found it impossible to get at from under the car.

 

Attach the oil sender block unit as instructed in the directions. When feeding the oil tubing through to the filter housing the end 90 degree fitting should be facing down (towards the filter housing). Loosely screw it onto the fitting you attached to the filter housing. Once everything is in it's place, then tighten all connections. The wire for this unit i ran along the driver side valve cover and down by the alternator.

 

Attach all your wire end connection fittings only after you've ran your wires, and are happy where they are. This is where the additional length of wires/tubing comes in.

 

All wires/tubing were incased in 1/2" plastic shielding for the group, and 3/8" plastic shielding for independant wires.

 

Once you have everything in place, make final connections. Double check everything.

 

Re-attach battery cable.

 

Turn key on but don't start the eng. This will energize and pressurize the fuel system. Check for leaks at the rails, adapter, fittings and observe pressure on your new gage.

 

Make sure all fittings are tight on the oil sender block using teflon tape.

 

Zip tie your wire runs to your existing wire runs that are along the top of the valve covers. I used them every where i ran the wires/tubing.

 

Once your satisfied with everything, start the eng, and monitor for leaks, and press on both fuel and oil gages. After warming up, you can rev the rpm's a bit to engage the boost press and watch that gage for operation.

 

Finally, cut and install both sides of the velcro to the gage mount. (Both stuck together) Then remove the paper from the bottom side sticky, and press your mount where you want it on the dash. I found this to be easiest instead of aligning them up separately.

 

Remember, this takes time and patience. Hope this helps.

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I like esoteric gauges too, but I think duplicating an existing gauge (like boost) is pointless. Also I think I'd be watching the two gauges together to see if they both said the same thing.

 

Does the Shelby cluster come with three gauges that aren't duplicates of what's already installed in the car (including a clock)?

 

It also occurs to me that the Shelby cluster may be a nice way to shield the Shelby-signed plaque from direct sunlight, preserving Carroll's magic-marker signature from fading. Right now that plaque is almost always hit by the sun.

 

Michael

 

Only the boost is duplicated, and frankly i like seeing it better than the one in the dash. It's easier to see! Doesn't help much to cover the dash plaque from the sun.

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What I don't understand is why there's a boost gauge at all.....I mean once the supercharger starts to whine, I don't have time to look at anything except the small animals, cars and landscaping I'm about to suck into the grill!!!

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What I don't understand is why there's a boost gauge at all.....I mean once the supercharger starts to whine, I don't have time to look at anything except the small animals, cars and landscaping I'm about to suck into the grill!!!

 

Well my friend, then your probably on the wrong road... :shift: Could say the same thing about all the gages....and on any car for that fact.

 

The stock boost gage only goes to 15. So if you mod out the car for additional boost, you'll read every bit of it on the additional gage...at least up to 35. But i doubt you'll be pulling anything close to that.

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  • 3 months later...

Good evening, I recently bought my cluster gauge from shelby and had it installed by Ford shelby specialist. All the gauges were working except the booster gauge, called shelby and had them send me a replacement.

Now I installed the 2nd one and it's still not working, I can feel the vacuum pressure when I disconnect it from the booster gauge but when I connect it it won't work. I even used teflon on the screws to prevent leakage

but still not working. Any advice please

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He may have kinked the hose

 

+1

 

there is no reason to use teflon. those are sweglock fittings and seal when tightened. tubing is very easily kinked if not routed carefully. look at all your tubing, especially from firewall up thru exit area by the steering resevior. thats where it is greatly susecptable to kinking.

 

did they add extra tubing to properly dress up and route around the eng? if not, then good chances it's kinked. i added extra for that reason. wasn't long enough.

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  • 4 months later...
Good evening, I recently bought my cluster gauge from shelby and had it installed by Ford shelby specialist. All the gauges were working except the booster gauge, called shelby and had them send me a replacement.

Now I installed the 2nd one and it's still not working, I can feel the vacuum pressure when I disconnect it from the booster gauge but when I connect it it won't work. I even used teflon on the screws to prevent leakage

but still not working. Any advice please

 

Is it really vacuum you're feeling? Could the tube be accidentally connected to a vacuum fitting and not boost? :shrug:

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I'm looking at the Shelby Center Gauge Cluster (Part #CGC-SC-KIT), which features BOOST, OIL and FUEL PRESSURE gauges. The listing says I will need an oil manifold for this install to work. What is that and where can I find one?

 

Do you guys go with the gauges offered with the cluster package, or do you prefer to buy the gauges separately? I will be running 18-19 psi boost, so a boost gauge is a must. Any recommendations (must fit 2-5/8" cut-out)? Are electronic or the old-fashioned needle ones more reliable? I also reckon that a A/F ratio and Temperature gauges are probalby necessary, but I am open to suggestions.

 

Any recommendations would be most appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

- BORG

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So I'm looking at the Shelby Center Gauge Cluster (Part #CGC-SC-KIT), which features BOOST, OIL and FUEL PRESSURE gauges. The listing says I will need an oil manifold for this install to work. What is that and where can I find one?

 

Do you guys go with the gauges offered with the cluster package, or do you prefer to buy the gauges separately? I will be running 18-19 psi boost, so a boost gauge is a must. Any recommendations (must fit 2-5/8" cut-out)? Are electronic or the old-fashioned needle ones more reliable? I also reckon that a A/F ratio and Temperature gauges are probalby necessary, but I am open to suggestions.

 

Any recommendations would be most appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

- BORG

 

pm'd you...stay with needle type if you buy others than the complete shelby kit. oil manifold info in the pm. A/F ratio not needed. that you will see and adj when dyno'ing the car. oil/fuel press are better then temp. you have other warnings for that. but i sometimes use my handheld infared temp device to see what various eng component temps are.

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So I'm looking at the Shelby Center Gauge Cluster (Part #CGC-SC-KIT), which features BOOST, OIL and FUEL PRESSURE gauges. The listing says I will need an oil manifold for this install to work. What is that and where can I find one?

 

Do you guys go with the gauges offered with the cluster package, or do you prefer to buy the gauges separately? I will be running 18-19 psi boost, so a boost gauge is a must. Any recommendations (must fit 2-5/8" cut-out)? Are electronic or the old-fashioned needle ones more reliable? I also reckon that a A/F ratio and Temperature gauges are probalby necessary, but I am open to suggestions.

 

Any recommendations would be most appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

- BORG

\

 

The oil manifold is a must for the oil pressure gauge to work properly. I was going to buy the gauges separtely but they are more expensive if you buy them separtely. After much research I found out that the shelby gauge pod set up is set at a good price and the kit is good. SAI has added a new oil manifold block for the GT500's. You can find the oil manifold here, oil manifold There are some good post here about the set up and installation. Good luck and post pictures.

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