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Clutch, brakes, and some other stuff


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I took LuLu (or, should I say LuLu took me?) to West Texas to attend Shelby's Terlingua/Bullrun event this just past September. LuLu wore some stuff out, she's got some sore bones.

 

The road trip there and back was 3500 miles on Interstates, mild driving for LuLu. Just sit back, set the cruise control, and stare out the window at America. All but Northern Illinois on 91 octane fuel (which was disappointing), but LuLu was up for the challenge. Another 1K or so just goofing around the hills and valleys of Terlingua and surroundings, before the "big event".

 

The Bullrun. Oh Geeze...What did LuLu get me into?

 

350 miles of two lane blacktop through the back roads of West Texas and Big Bend National Park. Terlingua, Alpine, Marathon, Fort Davis, and Big Bend NP itself. Some of the most beautiful mountains and scenery I have ever seen, and I've been through many picturesque regions over my years.

 

Awesome rock formations, elevations changing by 3K feet and more, and quite a bit of very challenging driving at speed without the usual road signs announcing curves and slalmons on very skinny pavement. This driving challenge was an "experience of my lifetime" as much as the surrounding landscape reminded me of how beautiful Americas is.

 

LuLu toasted her stock SGT brakes, and I have that solution in UPS channels as I type this. I called Page Nicholson at Stillen and ordered stock size two-piece front rotors, slotted and cross drilled, with matching rear one-piece rotors. Stillen metalic race pads, Goodridge stainless steel brake lines, and AP "Ultra" brake fluid. IMHO, the stock calipers (fronts are two-pot, rears are single) are just fine for improved brake clamp torque and swept area. I have my answer for this problem.

 

LuLu also kinda toasted her OEM clutch. Not seriously, but extended romps (over half an hour) over 130 MPH noted some irregularity in RPM vs. MPH. The OEM clutch has it's limitations.

 

So...My question to y'all is what kind of clutch system do any of y'all suggest? I've asked Page to do some checking for me, but I'm really flying blind at this point. LuLu is my first manual tranny in over 10 years, and I'm really out of touch on what's hot and what's not. I do know the 4.6L-3V native to the SGT is a six-bolt crank, and hydraulic. More than this, I'm guessing. I would be pleased to find a clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel and bearing combination that fits correctly, and reduces overall mass. The lighter and stronger, the better. What say y'all? Any advice?

 

Thanks in advance, gents, be safe.

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I took LuLu (or, should I say LuLu took me?) to West Texas to attend Shelby's Terlingua/Bullrun event this just past September. LuLu wore some stuff out, she's got some sore bones.

 

The road trip there and back was 3500 miles on Interstates, mild driving for LuLu. Just sit back, set the cruise control, and stare out the window at America. All but Northern Illinois on 91 octane fuel (which was disappointing), but LuLu was up for the challenge. Another 1K or so just goofing around the hills and valleys of Terlingua and surroundings, before the "big event".

 

The Bullrun. Oh Geeze...What did LuLu get me into?

 

350 miles of two lane blacktop through the back roads of West Texas and Big Bend National Park. Terlingua, Alpine, Marathon, Fort Davis, and Big Bend NP itself. Some of the most beautiful mountains and scenery I have ever seen, and I've been through many picturesque regions over my years.

 

Awesome rock formations, elevations changing by 3K feet and more, and quite a bit of very challenging driving at speed without the usual road signs announcing curves and slalmons on very skinny pavement. This driving challenge was an "experience of my lifetime" as much as the surrounding landscape reminded me of how beautiful Americas is.

 

LuLu toasted her stock SGT brakes, and I have that solution in UPS channels as I type this. I called Page Nicholson at Stillen and ordered stock size two-piece front rotors, slotted and cross drilled, with matching rear one-piece rotors. Stillen metalic race pads, Goodridge stainless steel brake lines, and AP "Ultra" brake fluid. IMHO, the stock calipers (fronts are two-pot, rears are single) are just fine for improved brake clamp torque and swept area. I have my answer for this problem.

 

LuLu also kinda toasted her OEM clutch. Not seriously, but extended romps (over half an hour) over 130 MPH noted some irregularity in RPM vs. MPH. The OEM clutch has it's limitations.

 

So...My question to y'all is what kind of clutch system do any of y'all suggest? I've asked Page to do some checking for me, but I'm really flying blind at this point. LuLu is my first manual tranny in over 10 years, and I'm really out of touch on what's hot and what's not. I do know the 4.6L-3V native to the SGT is a six-bolt crank, and hydraulic. More than this, I'm guessing. I would be pleased to find a clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel and bearing combination that fits correctly, and reduces overall mass. The lighter and stronger, the better. What say y'all? Any advice?

 

Thanks in advance, gents, be safe.

 

Sounds like you had a real blast, Mac! :)

 

The brakes I'm not surprised at but the clutch toasting I am ...should not be a problem cruising 130mph all day with the stock clutch, imo.

 

Nevertheless, it seems you're not alone. I've seen this Spec piece turn up as recommended in a number of other forums but I have no personal experience with it.

 

Best of luck with the swaps --Dan

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The brakes I'm not surprised at but the clutch toasting I am ...should not be a problem cruising 130mph all day with the stock clutch, imo.

Dan...Not hard to figure out, eh? "Cruising"? Hardly the case, sir.

 

Driving a road course in real time requires as much clutch activity for engine braking, as brakes for surviving curves. It's all 3rd and 4th gear stuff, and if I didn't apply engine brake (sometimes down through the gears to less than 10 MPH for a few hair pin turns up and down the side of a mountain) to augment braking, I would have been forced out broken before half done. It was worse for others. Many broke clutches and suspension bits, got caught by the cops, and ran out of gas. There was more than one challenge present in this Bullrun.

 

This was extreme and brutal punishment for any sports car not built specifically for driving the course. Not for the faint of heart, or, those lacking prior driving experience. Calling it a "cruise" is short sighted and reveals lack of experience in this field.

 

None of this was approved, or, encouraged by Shelby, or, Bullrun. OTOH, none of it was clearly discouraged until after the fact. Thus, You can imagine for yourselves...Set free a bunch of Shelby gearheads without clearly establishing a hard deck for goals and guidelines leaves every man to himself. It was fun at the moment, but it all seems stupid now. For the grace of God, no one died.

 

I cannot say I am proud of my shenanigans in the Bullrun. I drove LuLu hard and fast, but I didn't hurt anyone, or, anything, but my own LuLu. I'll fix that with upgrades, and I'm not going to stop road racing every chance I get.

 

Guess you had to be there to get this...

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Dan...Not hard to figure out, eh? "Cruising"? Hardly the case, sir.

 

Driving a road course in real time requires as much clutch activity for engine braking, as brakes for surviving curves. It's all 3rd and 4th gear stuff, and if I didn't apply engine brake (sometimes down through the gears to less than 10 MPH for a few hair pin turns up and down the side of a mountain) to augment braking, I would have been forced out broken before half done. It was worse for others. Many broke clutches and suspension bits, got caught by the cops, and ran out of gas. There was more than one challenge present in this Bullrun.

 

This was extreme and brutal punishment for any sports car not built specifically for driving the course. Not for the faint of heart, or, those lacking prior driving experience. Calling it a "cruise" is short sighted and reveals lack of experience in this field.

 

None of this was approved, or, encouraged by Shelby, or, Bullrun. OTOH, none of it was clearly discouraged until after the fact. Thus, You can imagine for yourselves...Set free a bunch of Shelby gearheads without clearly establishing a hard deck for goals and guidelines leaves every man to himself. It was fun at the moment, but it all seems stupid now. For the grace of God, no one died.

 

I cannot say I am proud of my shenanigans in the Bullrun. I drove LuLu hard and fast, but I didn't hurt anyone, or, anything, but my own LuLu. I'll fix that with upgrades, and I'm not going to stop road racing every chance I get.

 

Guess you had to be there to get this...

 

I have been running my car at Willow Springs , in the desert , and I agree , even on the prepared surface of a race track , an road course tests everthing on the car , especially if you are driving hard and fast ....................and you aren't having fun if you not driving hard and fast . This is why I think FORD did a fantastic job on the modern Mustang , my SGT has hung together well (sans the Hood Scoop to soon be replaced by the Heath / Beck Scoop) ...............I upgraded to 14" brakes , and 20" Razors with Falcon tires .....The Falcon have held up great too, I also put in a Coast Alu Drive shaft , Steeda Upper and Lower Cont Arms, and the Fays2 Watts Link is the icing on the cake , I will soon put Camber plates , the SPEC alu fly wheel and clutch are sitting in my garage waiting for me , and 3.73 diff gears to be installed in Ventura by Coast .......Then its off to Laguna Seca for Dec 4th Hooked on driving meet........................Winter task is to install the new Scoop , Love tinkering with this car............................. too bad SAI didn't do it to begin with......................................ZDS

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Sounds like a real blast!

 

Mac, I couldn't tell from your original post that it was a full romp -- makes more sense now ;-) ...wish I was there!!!

 

Fyi, using all that clutch-braking is very 'old-school' and suboptimal. Go to any driving school and one of the first things they'll teach you is that if you're using compression braking (as we all used to do back in the day when brakes sucked) your brakes are deficient and/or you're not using the car to it's fastest potential. That's because using compression braking unloads the rear and biases braking rearward which, be definition forces you thru a turn slower than using just the brakes going in and rpm-matching to the lower gear (with no compression braking) in advance of the turn/apex so you're set to come out. At first I was skeptical too but makes perfect sense if you think on it. But now I understand where the clutch went, especially since the SGT brakes didn't leave you a lot to work with anyway.

 

But you got 'er dopne and had a blast and that's what it's all about! :happy feet: :happy feet: :happy feet:

 

Man how I wish I could have played a bit too, you lucky devil! Glad you had a ball! And Lulu will be better for it with the upgrades for the next time!

 

Dan

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With the "armchair quarterbacking" of my driving skills in the Bullrun challenge behind us, I just want to say thanks for this link.

 

I've heard good stuff about the Ram twin disc clutch kit, and it appears to be a simple install. I can't stand it when upgrades turn into an overhaul nightmare without product/manfacturer support.

 

I wasn't shocked by the cost, it's not just a clutch plate, but a lot of other things included. I can wedge this into my '08 budget, thanks again.

 

Once I pull the trigger on this upgrade, I'll keep y'all up to date. All clutches will eventually fail, it's the nature of the beast. I guess I'm just the first to ask about it, but somewhere down the road, y'all may need this 411 yourselves.

 

I'll be here...

 

Any more suggestions on clutches?

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I called Page Nicholson at Stillen and ordered stock size two-piece front rotors, slotted and cross drilled, with matching rear one-piece rotors. Stillen metalic race pads, Goodridge stainless steel brake lines, and AP "Ultra" brake fluid. IMHO, the stock calipers (fronts are two-pot, rears are single) are just fine for improved brake clamp torque and swept area. I have my answer for this problem.

 

LuLu also kinda toasted her OEM clutch. Not seriously, but extended romps (over half an hour) over 130 MPH noted some irregularity in RPM vs. MPH. The OEM clutch has it's limitations.

 

So...My question to y'all is what kind of clutch system do any of y'all suggest? I've asked Page to do some checking for me, but I'm really flying blind at this point.

 

Mac,

 

I'm amazed that Page at Stillen did not have your answer on the tip of her tongue. Those guys are clutch experts and have developed some specialty clutches themselves. If Page doesn't have the answer I would ask to speak to somebody else at Stillen as you are already working with them on your brakes. I am certain that they can supply you with everything you are looking for.

 

Chip

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Mac,

 

I'm amazed that Page at Stillen did not have your answer on the tip of her tongue. Those guys are clutch experts and have developed some specialty clutches themselves. If Page doesn't have the answer I would ask to speak to somebody else at Stillen as you are already working with them on your brakes. I am certain that they can supply you with everything you are looking for.

 

Chip

 

Sorry - Page is a guy (that would be me - an OLD guy at that) :)

 

The clutch that we would sell for the Mustang is the ACT Heavy Duty G6 clutch (724 ft/lbs). This particular clutch kit doesnt come with the race beraing or piolt bearing - just need to get with ACT on pricing :)

 

We dont offer an AP Racing clutch setup for the Mustang - only for the Ford GT at this point.

 

Page :)

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Sorry - Page is a guy (that would be me - an OLD guy at that) :)

 

The clutch that we would sell for the Mustang is the ACT Heavy Duty G6 clutch (724 ft/lbs). This particular clutch kit doesnt come with the race beraing or piolt bearing - just need to get with ACT on pricing :)

 

We dont offer an AP Racing clutch setup for the Mustang - only for the Ford GT at this point.

 

Page :)

 

Did your parents hate you? Sorry but you set that one up?

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What I'm looking for (and what we all need) is a clutch "kit". A box with all the necessary components that fit correctly, and at first try, for the SGT.

 

In my past, I have needed things for my car that left it up on jackstands, or, a lift, while I hunt down working parts. Days turned into weeks and this is time off the pavement in prime time. Lost time cannot be recovered, today is today until its yesterday. You can't go back and start over.

 

Page knows this. He's hunting down some details on the ACT package and his kit may be better than the RAM kit. Moreover, there may be a "group buy" price too, we'll see?

 

Even if you don't need a clutch kit right now, it's a guarantee that someday, you will. Ditto brakes, tires, serpentine belt, etc...Think about the stuff your SGT will wear out someday and plan for spares, back-ups and normal replacements. Even if you don't buy spares and store them today, know where you can get them on a phone call.

 

Thanks for everything Page, talk with you soon.

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Does Centerforce make a clutch for our cars yet?

 

I put a centerforce in my '93 Cobra several years ago, and still absolutely love it to this day. It has lighter pedal pressure than the stock clutch, and has never had a problem dealing with 522 hp, even with 10.5" slicks.

 

My neighbor decided on the king cobra clutch for his '98 Cobra. It took about three weeks before we had it out again, and put in a Centerforce. He is still happy with it.

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Sorry - Page is a guy (that would be me - an OLD guy at that) :)

The clutch that we would sell for the Mustang is the ACT Heavy Duty G6 clutch (724 ft/lbs). This particular clutch kit doesnt come with the race bearing or pilot bearing - just need to get with ACT on pricing :)

We dont offer an AP Racing clutch setup for the Mustang - only for the Ford GT at this point.

Page :)

 

Page,

 

My bad. I have a niece named Page and I made an erroneous assumption. Then again, if I wasn't an auto enthusiast, I would assume that Carroll Shelby was a female as well!!

 

I spent an entire day in your shop when you hosted the Ford GT owners during Rally II in Newport Beach. I probably met you there. As regards modern performance cars, including the Ford GT, your team seemed to have the answers to everything. Suspension, superchargers, springs, clutches, CAD/CAM custom parts, dyno tuning, and whatever else, it was all there. Both the facility and the personnel were most impressive. You showed us the aftermarket heavy-duty clutch you had developed for the Ford GT. When my Ford GT clutch finally gives up the ghost, that's what will be going into my car. So I also assumed that you would know exactly what the hot setup was as regards clutches for the V-8 Mustang GT.

 

Since I'm on the subject, is an AP Racing clutch setup for the Mustang on the horizon? And finally, as I wish to maintain the stock looks of my Shelby GT, I appear to be severely limited in choices as regards high-performance brake calipers (to go with all the other trick stuff Mac has specified) as most do not clear those stock wheels. Are there any high-performance brake calipers that will clear the stock 18 inch Bullitt Mustang wheels?

 

Thanks Page.

 

Chip

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Page recently hooked me up with the AP Racing 6 pots on the GT500, and wow what a difference, significant increase in stopping performance, vastly improved pedal feel, I havent been able to fade them yet and they fit underneath the stock GT500 wheels beautifully.

 

Direct bolt on for my car, and get this, the two piece rotors were 5lbs lighter, each than the stockers! :happy feet: :happy feet:

 

Thanks again Page!

 

Phil

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spacers equal BAD it puts lots of load on the lugs instead of the hub and stud. i hear that the marader wheels have a 50mm offset which will clear better calipers but they are black so black cars are set oh and they look just like the stock rims.

The Marauder wheel is really Ford Racing #M-1027-188P, and they are polished forged aluminum with clearcoat. 18X8, 50mm offset. They have been available for the S197 Mustang since '05. I had a set left over from my three Marauders and had the center spokes powdercoated black for LuLu (see pics in my sig). Yes, they appear very close to the stock SGT wheel, but allow larger brake components.

 

GT500 wheels are also 50mm, and are available on ebay for 795.00 for a set of four.

 

I agree that spacers are not ideal for anyone planning on carving up some twisties. Okay for show.

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The Marauder wheel is really Ford Racing #M-1027-188P, and they are polished forged aluminum with clearcoat. 18X8, 50mm offset. They have been available for the S197 Mustang since '05. I had a set left over from my three Marauders and had the center spokes powdercoated black for LuLu (see pics in my sig). Yes, they appear very close to the stock SGT wheel, but allow larger brake components.

 

GT500 wheels are also 50mm, and are available on ebay for 795.00 for a set of four.

 

I agree that spacers are not ideal for anyone planning on carving up some twisties. Okay for show.

 

Lulu looks great, Mac!

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Mac:

 

Is this the wheel you used?

 

 

http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=99012322

 

 

It indicates that it is "silver"...I presume a painted finish, while yours appear to be chromed or polished, no? (Prior to the powder coating).

 

If this is not the wheel, can you provide a direct link?

 

Also, about what did it cost to have the powder coating done?

 

Thanks.

 

Kevin

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Mac:

 

Is this the wheel you used?

 

 

http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=99012322

 

 

It indicates that it is "silver"...I presume a painted finish, while yours appear to be chromed or polished, no? (Prior to the powder coating).

 

If this is not the wheel, can you provide a direct link?

 

Also, about what did it cost to have the powder coating done?

 

Thanks.

 

Kevin

Nope...It's this wheel

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCURY-MAR...emZ310090930067

 

I polished the interior of the wheel prior to powder coating, cost me about 100 bucks per wheel. Looks like this...

 

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk16/sh...m1/DSCN3048.jpg

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Nope...It's this wheel

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCURY-MAR...emZ310090930067

 

I polished the interior of the wheel prior to powder coating, cost me about 100 bucks per wheel. Looks like this...

 

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk16/sh...m1/DSCN3048.jpg

 

 

Got it.

 

Thanks much.

 

Kevin

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Sarge,

on the car those look just like the stock ones.

and room for bigger brakes,

 

cudos.

Yes indeed, my friend, and thank you. On my Marauders, they fit the 14" BaerClaw kits, which were more than adequate at stopping a 4500 pound supercharged sedan. These wheels are genuine Ford parts, offered as an accessory to the '05 and up S-197. They are also standard wheels on the '09 "45th Annerversary" edition, at least the one near my home.

 

For the time being, I purchased stock size rotors and pads from Page Nicholson at Stillen. Two piece +XD/S rotors in the front and +XD/S one piece in the rear. Slotted and crossdrilled. Goodridge SS brake lines, AP Ultra 5.1 high temp fluid and Stillen Metal Matrix pads all around. Using the stock calipers, this is a fine (and inexpensive) brake upgrade for any N/A SGT. If I ever install a blower kit, the brakes will be upgraded as needed.

 

Still looking at clutch kits...Oh yeah, tires too. I have had great times on Pirelli tires.

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Page,

 

My bad. I have a niece named Page and I made an erroneous assumption. Then again, if I wasn't an auto enthusiast, I would assume that Carroll Shelby was a female as well!!

 

I spent an entire day in your shop when you hosted the Ford GT owners during Rally II in Newport Beach. I probably met you there. As regards modern performance cars, including the Ford GT, your team seemed to have the answers to everything. Suspension, superchargers, springs, clutches, CAD/CAM custom parts, dyno tuning, and whatever else, it was all there. Both the facility and the personnel were most impressive. You showed us the aftermarket heavy-duty clutch you had developed for the Ford GT. When my Ford GT clutch finally gives up the ghost, that's what will be going into my car. So I also assumed that you would know exactly what the hot setup was as regards clutches for the V-8 Mustang GT.

 

Since I'm on the subject, is an AP Racing clutch setup for the Mustang on the horizon? And finally, as I wish to maintain the stock looks of my Shelby GT, I appear to be severely limited in choices as regards high-performance brake calipers (to go with all the other trick stuff Mac has specified) as most do not clear those stock wheels. Are there any high-performance brake calipers that will clear the stock 18 inch Bullitt Mustang wheels?

 

Thanks Page.

 

Chip

 

 

Hey Chip,

 

NOOOO problem at all - common occurance :) MOST of the time, if its a female - its spelled Paige :) Yea, I bet CS had that problem before he was well known. Hmm - maybe I will be well known someday. Probably not - but one can dream :)

 

I wasnt working here when we had the GT Rally. I have been here for just one year now (October 4th was my 1 year). Have heard a lot about it though - a great turnout for something that was kind of a last minute thing.

 

I am actually checking into the possibilities of an AP Racing clutch for the Mustang now. I dont hold out much hope for it though - as the market is pretty saturated at this point. For the Mustang we sell the ACT clutch systems (HDSS for mostly street cars - good to 566 ft/lbs). Sold one today as a matter of fact :) ACT doesnt yet have an application for the GT500 - but they are working on one at the moment.

 

As for high performance calipers to clear your OEM Bullitt's - not much out there (at least not much in the way of a high quality system). Even our AP4400 (4 piston front kit) would require a spacer. The BEST way to determine wheel fitment would be to use one of the profiles we provide to check for fitment. This would be required anyway - cant sell the brakes unless the customer has cheched for wheel clearance. Just for kicks - here are links to the 6 and 4 piston front kits, and the 4 piston rear kit.

 

AP4100 (6 Piston Front)

AP4400 (4 Piston Front)

AP4150 (4 Piston Rear)

 

Need to be sure when you print the profiles, that you have "Scaling" options in your print driver set to "NONE" so that the printer doesnt try to scale the document to fit better on a single page. There is a 1" x 1" reference square on the printout you can use to verify that it was printed correctly.

 

I will keep you all updated on the possibilities of an AP Racing clutch as soon as I find out.

 

Thanks Much

 

Page

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