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SGT typical performance mods?


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Is there a list of knee-jerk performance upgrades for the SGT anywhere online? Do you have your own list?

I will definitely get an S/C for mine someday, but not within the year.

So, I'm looking for the most common performance mods that other owners have done to theirs.

The best CAI upgrade? Computer chip? Exhaust? Brakes?

I know this list is subject to opinion, but I'm overwhelmed with the aftermarket for the new Mustang.

Any help is much appreciated!

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Is there a list of knee-jerk performance upgrades for the SGT anywhere online? Do you have your own list?

I will definitely get an S/C for mine someday, but not within the year.

So, I'm looking for the most common performance mods that other owners have done to theirs.

The best CAI upgrade? Computer chip? Exhaust? Brakes?

I know this list is subject to opinion, but I'm overwhelmed with the aftermarket for the new Mustang.

Any help is much appreciated!

Some of the suggestions I make here directly improve your power output to the ground. Other things improve power by improving control over that power. In the end, they all work together to fine tune your SGT.

 

Aftermarket mods that have shown good bang for my buck include stainless steel shorty headers (Pypes), muffler delete (made locally, and cheaper than the SLP Loudmouth), one-piece aluminum drive shaft and adjustable upper rear control arm (LFP). Of course, a professional "hands on" (not canned) dyno tune ties it all together.

 

You mention upgrading your induction system, but you're not going to get much performance improvement there. The stock SGT already has a 90mm MAF and low restriction induction system. Some here have upgraded the inlet elbow (zip tube) with a smoother aftermarket product, and this improves the underhood eye candy, but offers up very minor (if at all) performance improvements. It does smooth out throttle tip-in. Think about this expense before you invest?

 

Did I mention that a professional dyno tune will tie things up nicely.

 

Others will suggest under drive pulleys, but I'm not a fan. Nothing wrong with them, but I've had poor experiences in the past. If you go this route, chose carefully. The March products are very high quality.

 

Others have suggested improved cams from FRP, and I like them. However, they tend to reduce low end torque in favor of high end power. It's a trade-off, also to be debated.

 

4:10 gears have also won fond approval from many here, but I do too much highway driving at the present time, maybe down the road?

 

Another goodie for getting your power to the ground and improving control is the Faze2 Watts link, an improved Panhard bar, and a FRP front lower A-arm brace. This is where you fortify your frame and suspension bits to get your native power to the ground and improve handling. No RWHP/RWTQ gains, but you'll be more competitive on the blacktop.

 

Other mods on my list (not presently installed) include billet lower rear control arms from LFP, full synthetic tranny and rear end gear lube, Granatelli -3V COPs, Ford Racing "Zero" spark plugs, a 180 degree thermostat (NAPA), and an improved clutch system (not yet selected). Bring down the engine temps and combustion charge temps and you'll see more power to the wheels with less wear and tear on internals. Moreover, if your SGT is an auto tranny, there are a dozen tricks for that scenario.

 

Last...Don't skimp on the brakes. What goes faster must be able to stop faster, and with just over 13K miles, my OEM brakes are toast. I'm overhauling with new cross-drilled and slotted two-piece front rotors, metalic pads, cross-drilled and slotted one piece rear rotors, stainless steel braided lines and high temp brake fluid. Stock calipers are more than sufficient, the front calipers are two-pot.

 

If you're going to push your SGT around tight corners, consider a 4 point street harness. You can't control the power if you are getting thrown around in the seat....Just MHO.

 

Best wishes, happy motoring.

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Bottom line....not much except a SC. Those other mods that LuLu has installed on his baby probably add up to "almost" a SC. With a few more coins you could have a Paxton SC installed for around $6000 +/-. LuLu's mods probably cost him around $4-4500 total. There is just not much you can do to these cars to bring more HP and torque except a SC and that brings you a big bang for the coin.

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Bottom line....not much except a SC. Those other mods that LuLu has installed on his baby probably add up to "almost" a SC. With a few more coins you could have a Paxton SC installed for around $6000 +/-. LuLu's mods probably cost him around $4-4500 total. There is just not much you can do to these cars to bring more HP and torque except a SC and that brings you a big bang for the coin.

I can't disagree with you Swede, even if I wanted to. Any S/C kit will provide awesome power and it's prolly not a bad place to start. However, in order to control that power and maximize it's usefulness, many of my suggestions lean towards getting that done first.

 

In the "year" kahmann expects to wait for his blower kit of choice, he could fine tune the rest of his SGT to handle that power once it arrives. Likewise, I am waiting, and tuning other systems in the meantime. This is one of the reasons I am not chasing the UDPs. They would have to come off when my blower arrives.

 

The SGT is a fairly stout brute in stock trim, but throwing 400+ RWHP at it will wear it down early if other systems are not prepared for that. Prepping for a blower install by improving support systems is a choice to consider.

 

Just my .02C, carry on gents.

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Bottom line....not much except a SC. Those other mods that LuLu has installed on his baby probably add up to "almost" a SC. With a few more coins you could have a Paxton SC installed for around $6000 +/-. LuLu's mods probably cost him around $4-4500 total. There is just not much you can do to these cars to bring more HP and torque except a SC and that brings you a big bang for the coin.

 

swede, that $6000.00 wont even buy that paxton. I got a quote from Quantum yesterday and the Paxton kit installed on our cars is $8300.00. The only thing I have asked for extra is a true dyno tune instead of the programmer tune that the kit comes with. Not trying to start any problems just didnt want you to think $6,000.00 is all it would take.

-Chris

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I can't disagree with you Swede, even if I wanted to. Any S/C kit will provide awesome power and it's prolly not a bad place to start. However, in order to control that power and maximize it's usefulness, many of my suggestions lean towards getting that done first.

 

In the "year" kahmann expects to wait for his blower kit of choice, he could fine tune the rest of his SGT to handle that power once it arrives. Likewise, I am waiting, and tuning other systems in the meantime. This is one of the reasons I am not chasing the UDPs. They would have to come off when my blower arrives.

 

The SGT is a fairly stout brute in stock trim, but throwing 400+ RWHP at it will wear it down early if other systems are not prepared for that. Prepping for a blower install by improving support systems is a choice to consider.

 

Just my .02C, carry on gents.

That's exactly why I'm waiting for the S/C install. I haven't done much tuning to a car built post-1970 (short of CAI, brakes, exhaust) and I have zero experience with superchargers or turbos (in my own cars).

I really want to build an all around great car first, then consider forcing a ton of air into the block.

Your suggestions were excellent and exactly what I needed! Thanks a ton for your help. I'll keep ya posted on my progress!

 

Ken

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swede, that $6000.00 wont even buy that paxton. I got a quote from Quantum yesterday and the Paxton kit installed on our cars is $8300.00. The only thing I have asked for extra is a true dyno tune instead of the programmer tune that the kit comes with. Not trying to start any problems just didnt want you to think $6,000.00 is all it would take.

-Chris

 

 

Chris- I think Quantum is spanking the public. The last time I checked the Paxton was $6250 installed A SAI for the polished version and $6K for the satin which I would not recommend.

 

SPP price is $5299 (polished) retail for the unit alone.

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I can't disagree with you Swede, even if I wanted to. Any S/C kit will provide awesome power and it's prolly not a bad place to start. However, in order to control that power and maximize it's usefulness, many of my suggestions lean towards getting that done first.

 

In the "year" kahmann expects to wait for his blower kit of choice, he could fine tune the rest of his SGT to handle that power once it arrives. Likewise, I am waiting, and tuning other systems in the meantime. This is one of the reasons I am not chasing the UDPs. They would have to come off when my blower arrives.

 

The SGT is a fairly stout brute in stock trim, but throwing 400+ RWHP at it will wear it down early if other systems are not prepared for that. Prepping for a blower install by improving support systems is a choice to consider.

 

Just my .02C, carry on gents.

 

I hope you did not think I was in any way disrespecting your car or its mods. I was just implying that to get high HP you have to install a SC or throw a lot of coin at the internals and you maybe will not even get high HP then. Just carring on the information-

Swede

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Some of the suggestions I make here directly improve your power output to the ground. Other things improve power by improving control over that power. In the end, they all work together to fine tune your SGT.

 

Aftermarket mods that have shown good bang for my buck include stainless steel shorty headers (Pypes), muffler delete (made locally, and cheaper than the SLP Loudmouth), one-piece aluminum drive shaft and adjustable upper rear control arm (LFP). Of course, a professional "hands on" (not canned) dyno tune ties it all together.

 

You mention upgrading your induction system, but you're not going to get much performance improvement there. The stock SGT already has a 90mm MAF and low restriction induction system. Some here have upgraded the inlet elbow (zip tube) with a smoother aftermarket product, and this improves the underhood eye candy, but offers up very minor (if at all) performance improvements. It does smooth out throttle tip-in. Think about this expense before you invest?

 

Did I mention that a professional dyno tune will tie things up nicely.

 

Others will suggest under drive pulleys, but I'm not a fan. Nothing wrong with them, but I've had poor experiences in the past. If you go this route, chose carefully. The March products are very high quality.

 

Others have suggested improved cams from FRP, and I like them. However, they tend to reduce low end torque in favor of high end power. It's a trade-off, also to be debated.

 

4:10 gears have also won fond approval from many here, but I do too much highway driving at the present time, maybe down the road?

 

Another goodie for getting your power to the ground and improving control is the Faze2 Watts link, an improved Panhard bar, and a FRP front lower A-arm brace. This is where you fortify your frame and suspension bits to get your native power to the ground and improve handling. No RWHP/RWTQ gains, but you'll be more competitive on the blacktop.

 

Other mods on my list (not presently installed) include billet lower rear control arms from LFP, full synthetic tranny and rear end gear lube, Granatelli -3V COPs, Ford Racing "Zero" spark plugs, a 180 degree thermostat (NAPA), and an improved clutch system (not yet selected). Bring down the engine temps and combustion charge temps and you'll see more power to the wheels with less wear and tear on internals. Moreover, if your SGT is an auto tranny, there are a dozen tricks for that scenario.

 

Last...Don't skimp on the brakes. What goes faster must be able to stop faster, and with just over 13K miles, my OEM brakes are toast. I'm overhauling with new cross-drilled and slotted two-piece front rotors, metalic pads, cross-drilled and slotted one piece rear rotors, stainless steel braided lines and high temp brake fluid. Stock calipers are more than sufficient, the front calipers are two-pot.

 

If you're going to push your SGT around tight corners, consider a 4 point street harness. You can't control the power if you are getting thrown around in the seat....Just MHO.

 

Best wishes, happy motoring.

 

Headers aren't worth the expense unless you are using a supercharger than I would say yes go ahead and do it, but on a basically stock Shelby GT or GT flow difference between headers and stock exhaust manifolds is minimal at best.

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Headers aren't worth the expense unless you are using a supercharger than I would say yes go ahead and do it, but on a basically stock Shelby GT or GT flow difference between headers and stock exhaust manifolds is minimal at best.

Really? How do you figure? Did you put headers on a SGT and not notice any performance gain?

I had a V6 FJ Cruiser that I installed JBA shortys on and the HP gain was immediate and significant.

The stock manifolds on my SGT look awfully similar to the old Hi-Po logs FoMoCo threw on the 60's K-codes (read: terribly inefficient).

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I would recommend the following items: (these are "seat of the pants" estimates)

 

1) Team Shelby Sticker + 2 HP

 

2) Terlingua Racing Team Sticker + 5 HP

 

3) CS Autograph Floor & Trunk Mats in matching color stripe + 10 HP

 

4) Carroll Shelby Autograph on the Air Bag Cover - PRICELESS

 

Your results may vary, some assembly required, batteries not included.

 

:shift:

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swede, that $6000.00 wont even buy that paxton. I got a quote from Quantum yesterday and the Paxton kit installed on our cars is $8300.00. The only thing I have asked for extra is a true dyno tune instead of the programmer tune that the kit comes with. Not trying to start any problems just didnt want you to think $6,000.00 is all it would take. -Chris

 

 

Chris - Your not starting any problems because the "retail" price of the Paxton here on Shelby Performance Parts is $5299 for the polished unit. I PM'd you the information last night. Lets say Quantum gets a 25% discount from Paxton, they are making $4K on an install for a Paxton SC! Now that is what I call starting trouble! Also did you get a hold of Quantum and ask why they are charging $3K+ for a Paxton install when the unit is "retail" $5299 right here through Shelby Performance Parts?

Just thought I'd ask.

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My winter projects are going with the polished Kenne Bell 2 stage S/C, 3:73 rear, big Ford Racing Front brakes, and rims and tires (working out the details). dyno and tune to boot..lol..keeping the x pipes and that should keep me happy until the summer

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My winter projects are going with the polished Kenne Bell 2 stage S/C, 3:73 rear, big Ford Racing Front brakes, and rims and tires (working out the details). dyno and tune to boot..lol..keeping the x pipes and that should keep me happy until the summer

Are the shorty headers the only way to go, in order to still keep the x-pipe?

Or can you install full length headers, without interfering with the rest of the exhaust?

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