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Clutch Failure


frankc5601

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Just a heads up. I lost my clutch this weekend, and when I say lost, I mean lost. I went from having 6 full gears to 0 gears with one burnout. This was far from any abuse. I simply did a burnout in second gear, and in the process, lost my clutch entirely. I had no gears in forward (never checked reverse). After letting it cool for an hour, I did get all six gears back, but with major slippage. From what we can figure out, the flywheel is probably severely warped, so getting very little contact with clutch. Clutch may be glazed over also. That's how she sits now at the dealer. The dealer tried to suggest it might be a wear item, not covered by warranty, but said in the same breath he would write it up under the TSB for the clutch issues, so it looks like a new flywheel, clutch, throwout bearing, input shaft, and synchronizers. I also saw this happen to another car at the event I attended. Same thing, here one minute, gone next. Also saw the same thing happen at Dearborn 2008 two weeks ago. Again, exact same events, here one minute, gone next.

 

Can someone provide a further explanation of how the clutches are going so instantaneously?

 

Thanks

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Frank, there are no less than 25 different forums that contain hundreds of posts about the GT500 clutch and flywheel issue. I recommend that you use the search engine and type in the word TSB or Flywheel and see what comes back.

 

But in a nutshell, you lost your clutch due to excessive heat.

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Mine is doing fine at 11k miles. I hope it lasts to near the 3 year point before I have Ford replace it under warranty. I'll let others go through the learning curve on this one. Could go at any point but for now, its fine. Just luck I know but I do feel the 4.10 gears have helped a good deal.

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My car had 25,000 miles on it with no problems and none of the symptoms for the TSB. Drove to Home Depot, no problem, came out and could not shift into any gear. Dealer performed TSB. Clutch was GONE! No trips to track, most of the miles were from a long commute. I'm not happy with the new clutch at all. It's impossible to drive the car smooth from a stop unless you rev it over 2000 RPM from a start. This can't be good for the clutch.

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Just a heads up. I lost my clutch this weekend, and when I say lost, I mean lost. I went from having 6 full gears to 0 gears with one burnout. This was far from any abuse. I simply did a burnout in second gear, and in the process, lost my clutch entirely. I had no gears in forward (never checked reverse). After letting it cool for an hour, I did get all six gears back, but with major slippage. From what we can figure out, the flywheel is probably severely warped, so getting very little contact with clutch. Clutch may be glazed over also. That's how she sits now at the dealer. The dealer tried to suggest it might be a wear item, not covered by warranty, but said in the same breath he would write it up under the TSB for the clutch issues, so it looks like a new flywheel, clutch, throwout bearing, input shaft, and synchronizers. I also saw this happen to another car at the event I attended. Same thing, here one minute, gone next. Also saw the same thing happen at Dearborn 2008 two weeks ago. Again, exact same events, here one minute, gone next.

 

Can someone provide a further explanation of how the clutches are going so instantaneously?

 

Thanks

 

Damn Frank. Now I am even more paranoid. Your car was #177 of 1054 vista blue and mine was #175. I have 15k miles and clutch is still o.k. but this is just nerve racking.

 

Good luck with the fix. Come on Mr. Ford, do the recall..., NOW!

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My car had 25,000 miles on it with no problems and none of the symptoms for the TSB. Drove to Home Depot, no problem, came out and could not shift into any gear. Dealer performed TSB. Clutch was GONE! No trips to track, most of the miles were from a long commute. I'm not happy with the new clutch at all. It's impossible to drive the car smooth from a stop unless you rev it over 2000 RPM from a start. This can't be good for the clutch.

MSY, you may/probably have an excessive amount of air in the master cylinder and/or the slave cylinder. You can either pump the air out of the system, or take your car back to the dealer and have them bleed it again/better.

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Is it possible that FORD will not officially call it a recall because a bad clutch has little to no chance of causing a person bodily harm? No harm, no lawsuits. No lawsuits, No reason to do a probably multi million dollar recall in an already devastating economic time.

 

just my .02

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I think 3 clutches toasted at Terlingua, by my last count.

 

Heat appears to be the culprit, warping the flywheel, which is why it goes all at once. One stop-and-go commute could cause the problem, maybe even quicker than drag racing or burnouts. Slipping the clutch will heat it up, even without over-revving. In a race, you generally don't slip the clutch all that much, and you only do it at launch. In traffic, you slip-stop slip-stop for an extended period of time.

 

I've got over 20K now, with no problems. I kind of feel the same way, though, I wish it would just go and get over with. Then again, I'd rather it went out just before warranty expired!

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Damn Frank. Now I am even more paranoid. Your car was #177 of 1054 vista blue and mine was #175. I have 15k miles and clutch is still o.k. but this is just nerve racking.

 

Good luck with the fix. Come on Mr. Ford, do the recall..., NOW!

 

It was my Grabber Orange Vert, built Feb 07. My Vista Blue sits in the garage with only 1000 miles, but I'll be taking it in for a check-up after the Vert comes home.

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Is it possible that FORD will not officially call it a recall because a bad clutch has little to no chance of causing a person bodily harm? No harm, no lawsuits. No lawsuits, No reason to do a probably multi million dollar recall in an already devastating economic time.

 

just my .02

 

Your most likely correct. Replace them as they go bad, and with luck, they'll do only a portion of what they would have done with a full recall. At some point, the warranty will expire, then it's the owner problem.

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:shift: I had the tsb done on my car not because it was faulty but because the parts put in the car by ford were faulty- also I think when ford sees how big a hit this is going to cost them they will be looking for a way out- mods etc. I have about one hundred miles on the car and the clutch is not as smooth as the original however it shifts better. No regrets as I feel I have better parts and it did not come out of my pocket- If it fails again it is another issue but most- and you could well be most- cars without the tsb will fail- the tsb was not written by ford out of the generosity of their hearts but because they had the wrong parts for the clutch in the gt 500. Get it done- they made a mistake why should we pay for it? Was I having a huge prolem well maybe no but it gulled me to think how long it took ford to admit their mistake. I said I want the tsb and they said your car seems fine but they stepped up to the plate and covered me. Put the clutch to work today and chirpped rubber in 3 gears and never got to fourth as by then I was moving right along. Had to do it as I wanted to see if it still could and to let the new system know it was going to be needed at times. However I do not believe Grabber had this listed as a clutch test. rs

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:shift: Put the clutch to work today and chirpped rubber in 3 gears and never got to fourth as by then I was moving right along. Had to do it as I wanted to see if it still could and to let the new system know it was going to be needed at times. However I do not believe Grabber had this listed as a clutch test. rs

 

That's the after test. :hysterical:

 

:peelout:

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Heat appears to be the culprit, warping the flywheel, which is why it goes all at once. One stop-and-go commute could cause the problem, maybe even quicker than drag racing or burnouts. Slipping the clutch will heat it up, even without over-revving. In a race, you generally don't slip the clutch all that much, and you only do it at launch. In traffic, you slip-stop slip-stop for an extended period of time.

 

Just my personal opinion but the clutches are going bad because the clutches are not completely dissengaging, thus heat build up and warpage of the fly wheel. I don't think that the flywheel is the cause of the problem but exasterbates the problem once it starts to warp. Think about it for a minute. If the clutches were completely disengaging then where is the heat coming from? There is no heat where there is complete disengagement unless someone is abusing the clutch or the clutch is faulty and they are not changing the clutch to the best of my knowledge in the TSB. That is why we are see slippage start after burnouts AND in stop and go traffic without any hint of abuse. It is also something that has taken some time to show up so I think the effects are cumulative over time.

 

Once again, I am on expert so this is just my opinion...

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Just my personal opinion but the clutches are going bad because the clutches are not completely dissengaging, thus heat build up and warpage of the fly wheel. I don't think that the flywheel is the cause of the problem but exasterbates the problem once it starts to warp. Think about it for a minute. If the clutches were completely disengaging then where is the heat coming from? There is no heat where there is complete disengagement unless someone is abusing the clutch or the clutch is faulty and they are not changing the clutch to the best of my knowledge in the TSB. That is why we are see slippage start after burnouts AND in stop and go traffic without any hint of abuse. It is also something that has taken some time to show up so I think the effects are cumulative over time.

 

Once again, I am on expert so this is just my opinion...

 

 

John

 

I agree fully. It takes quite a bit of heat to make metal like that warp; either extend slippage or incomplete disengagement. I suppose stop and go driving for an extended period could provide that kind of heat, it would require a condition where you are moving up a car length or two every minute or less, with quite a bit of clutch slip. It seems that they are just trying to go after all aspects of the issue (grease, splines, clutch hub plated nickel) plus making it harder for the flywheel to warp in the first place. As long as the clutch system now disengages properly, you can be in a slip condition (such as in a parade) for a longer period before you warp that flywheel. So basically, all components need to be addressed for a complete fix. Just doing the flywheel is not enough.

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