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Looking for brush-on anti-rust option for axle housing


Boss Doctor

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Anybody have a recommendation for a brush-on, anti-rust paint for the axle? I want to stay away from spray because I don't want to mask the crap out of everything, because sure as the world I'll miss a spot and get overspray on the car. The way my luck works with such things the overspray would end up on the clearcoat on the other end of the car!

 

Steve

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Anybody have a recommendation for a brush-on, anti-rust paint for the axle? I want to stay away from spray because I don't want to mask the crap out of everything, because sure as the world I'll miss a spot and get overspray on the car. The way my luck works with such things the overspray would end up on the clearcoat on the other end of the car!

 

Steve

Go to Eastwood.com. they have all the products you need. I used their Chassis Black Primer and Chassis Black satin finish and am very pleased with the results. Brush on application. Great Quality products.

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Here is Grabber's project pics with products

Grabber's End Rust Project

 

Others have used POR's 15

POR 15

Covering the entire car with some light painters plastic and taping it down will assure no overspray gets on your clear coat. This is very easy to do. Getting a brush into every nook and cranny is darn near impossible. I did brush on the rust converter and that was a pain.

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After trying both Por-15 and Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, I prefer the Eastwood product.

Very true.

 

Por15 is for heavily rusted stuff - not the little surface rust on our cars. It actually works better when it can bond with the heavy rust.

 

Por15 is a waste for our application.

 

I've also used this stuff - it's a step above the Eastwood stuff, but just as easy to use. Works in our application too.

 

http://www.nomorerust.com/

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One other consideration in painting the rear axle is that it will retain more heat. Probably only a factor if you run the car hard.

 

How much heat does a thick coat of rust hold compared to a thin coat of paint ? :headscratch:

 

Do you have the test data ? :hysterical:

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I put the POR-15 on my axle, and by the way the car is behaving, I think it's probably running a solid .002 to .003 degrees C hotter. I can't tell without a thermometer, but I can't talk anybody into riding around down there to check, so that's just an estimate.

 

Sorry, couldn't resist. The differential is the part that would be affected by heat, and that was already painted at the factory. I did the cover as well. It's not like it's sitting in the sun baking or anything.

 

The POR-15 is very thin, like water, and very, very permanent. That makes it difficult to use, because it drips easily, and it stays where it drips. On the other hand, working on my suspension and stuff, I've whacked that axle with some pretty big wrenches, and it has not even scratched the POR-15. I painted the Fays2 Watts frame with regular paint, and it's all ratty looking already. The POR-15 is dynamite.

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I don't have an apples to apples comparison. My GT500's rear axle runs about 50 degrees hotter than my buddies after about 15 hard minutes around Road America. His is stock. Mine is a 3.73 gear, painted with Eastwood rust encapsulator as a primer and Eastwood extreme chassis black as a topcoat. I also have the FRPP aluminum axle cover girdle. I have an Evo stage 1 93 octane tune so I am pushing a little more horsepower thru a higher numerical gear. Still I was surprised to see that much difference. I checked them both with an infra red digital thermometer. Next year I might try a different axle lube as I have heard that the full synthectic can cause higher temps.

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I don't have an apples to apples comparison. My GT500's rear axle runs about 50 degrees hotter than my buddies after about 15 hard minutes around Road America. His is stock. Mine is a 3.73 gear, painted with Eastwood rust encapsulator as a primer and Eastwood extreme chassis black as a topcoat. I also have the FRPP aluminum axle cover girdle. I have an Evo stage 1 93 octane tune so I am pushing a little more horsepower thru a higher numerical gear. Still I was surprised to see that much difference. I checked them both with an infra red digital thermometer. Next year I might try a different axle lube as I have heard that the full synthectic can cause higher temps.

 

 

you need to get a finned rear axle cover it will help keep it cooler

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Just a question - does the color affect the infrared readings? I'm wondering if it's a temperature, or your black metal is radiating more freely in the infrared. If that is the case, inside your axle may actually be cooler than your friends stock setup.

 

Think in terms of sighting somebody using infrared in cool weather. If your target is well insulated, say somebody in a full body neoprene suit, you will not see as much IR radiation as somebody wearing shorts and a t-shirt. However, the person in the neoprene suit may be very hot, where the person in shorts is chilly.

 

Just a thought, may be complete BS.

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I don't think the color makes any significant difference in this situation. I check both axles at several points. Both have black painted center sections, and I have taken temperatures there. I would think that some of the difference in temperature is due to the hp and gear ratio changes. But I'm surprised at the amount of the difference. I'm sure Grabber will be able to figure this out. Either that or he'll post one of those cute little animated dots.

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I have no idea on the temp issue-except black acts as a much better heat transfer medium-so it could be that both axles were not at a steady state and the fluid was just as hot in the unpainted one except the case was not radiating as much heat so it appeared the unpainted was cooler when in fact the temps of the fluid were the same..... I used Eastwood rust encapsulator and extreme chassis black with fine results. I was a little apprehensive about POR 15 and the other converters since they convert rust into a phosphate compound. And we have no way to really rinse it out of the bolts since we are doing it in place and not stripping the rear end. So that's just me but I masked it and shot it with these products-YES IT WAS A MAJOR PAIN TO DO IT REALLY RIGHT.

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