Grabber Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 I was one of the first ones to get a Dash Plaque and I put it on as soon as it arrived. Then all the talk about sealer took place. Several members applied sealer and the ink on Carroll's signature smeared. I was glad that I did not try that. Then over the next few months several members found that Krylon 1309 UV-Resistant Matte finish was working very well on the plaques if they applied it in 10 very light coats. Well, I bought a can of the stuff last winter, and have been to scared to try it until today. This is what my plaque looked like before I started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 I taped off the the Dash Plaque with blue painters tape. I then took a big piece of light clear plastic and tucked it in, on top of the visors and flded the visors up to hold the plastic. I punched a couple holes in the plastic so I could pin the plastic to the windshield in a couple places. I folded it out over the seats and consol. I then cut a hole in the plastic around the Dash Plaque and taped the plastic edges down to the blue tape to seal the perimeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 I then shook my can of Krylon 1309 UV-Resistant Matte finish sealer for 2 minutes after I let the can set in the sun for 10 minutes to warm up. The temp in my shop was 87. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 I sprayed 10 coats on the Dash Plaque and let each coat dry 5 minutes inbetween each coat. The first 3 coats were real light. Here is how it turned out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 (edited) I have a video that consists of 10 clips spliced together of the spraying of each coat so you will know how to apply the sealer with out making the signature smear or run. The video is 3 minutes and 24 seconds long. Edited June 3, 2011 by Grabber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevhead20 Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 (edited) Well done Grabber. Do you think having the signature "set" for the length of time that you did aided in the process? I'm wondering by letting it sit untreated for a period of time might just let the sig cure and resist running rather than treating it right away? I'll probably do mine this winter, letting the plaque "cure" for about six months. Edited August 24, 2008 by kevhead20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 (edited) Well done Grabber. Do you think having the signature "set" for the length of time that you did aided in the process? I'm wondering by letting it sit untreated for a period of time might just let the sig cure and resist running rather than treating it right away? I'll probably do mine this winter, letting the plaque "cure" for about six months. I do think that the ink being totally cured out is a good idea. Your winter comment worries me. Please make sure the temp is no lower that 70-80 out or you are going to have problems. It says so on the can. One other thing I thought of. If you have ever sprayed stuff before with a rattle can you know that if the item you are spraying is laying flat on the floor, you have more risk of a drip hitting the item. I did not have this risk since my Dash Plaque was vertical in my car....but it was kind of a pain to mask off. This entire job took me 1-1/2 hours. Don't rush it. Edited August 24, 2008 by Grabber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 Grabber: I figured you'd find a way to seal the plaque. The only suggestion I would have for others who might do this is to wait a little longer between coats; can says drying time is 10 to 15 minutes. Perhaps with the warmer temperatures, drying time can be quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevhead20 Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 yeah right....winter well it's been naked 'til now, I can wait until next summer. I am glad I waited though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 Well done Grabber. Do you think having the signature "set" for the length of time that you did aided in the process? I'm wondering by letting it sit untreated for a period of time might just let the sig cure and resist running rather than treating it right away? I'll probably do mine this winter, letting the plaque "cure" for about six months. I sprayed mine right away with no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6-Speed Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 Oh and keep the windows rolled down for a while or you might start to feel a little light headed. :wacko: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 (edited) Grabber: I figured you'd find a way to seal the plaque. The only suggestion I would have for others who might do this is to wait a little longer between coats; can says drying time is 10 to 15 minutes. Perhaps with the warmer temperatures, drying time can be quicker. Agreed. It was 90 out here today, and I did this at 4pm during the heat of the day. My car was warm from sitting in the warm shop. I also suggest lightly blowing on the surface right after each coat. That's what I did and as you can see by my video the sealer went on pretty light. Practice on a piece of cardboard first to get the hang of the spray tip. Keep the can moving and use short bursts of sealer when you spray it. Edited August 24, 2008 by Grabber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiefferGT500 Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 Had to be a little unerving spraying a paint can inside your car. I have decide to spray mine before mounting it. Good work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 Had to be a little unerving spraying a paint can inside your car. I have decide to spray mine before mounting it. Good work... The scarey part was worrying about a run or shooting a drip/blob onto the Dash Plaque. The tape and plastic was easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT500FLYBOY Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 As usual, Rob - this is just what I was looking for. I have been hesitant to do anything with my CS sig on my air bag cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 John, The air bag cover is a different story. I have not seen anyone spray those yet. I would not want to be the first one to do it. That surface is different, and needs to be pretty clean for the sealer to stick. I suggest you find a cover in a junk yard that has been blown off in a crash, and do a spray test on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torch40 Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 The plaque is held in place with double back tape. Why didn't you just peel it off the dash, spray it, then put it back? I'm to paranoid to spray in the car. Not trying to criticize just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 The plaque is held in place with double back tape. Why didn't you just peel it off the dash, spray it, then put it back?I'm to paranoid to spray in the car. Not trying to criticize just curious. Andy, Once the Plaque is on. It's on good. You will play hell getting it off. Trust me on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txcobra Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 Grabber, thanks for posting this up, I think I will steal shamelessly. One question, it looks like in the first couple of pics there were multiple strips of tape that you worked in around and under the edges of the plaque, but in the video and pics of the plastic on, the blue stuff around the plaque appears to be one piece? If I am correct, how did you do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherri Leicht Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 (edited) Thanks Rob. I am chicken to do mine but this helps. Also, just an fyi, I only peeled the ends of the tape protection off and stuck it on just in case I ever wanted or had to remove it. Edited August 24, 2008 by msmap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 Grabber, thanks for posting this up, I think I will steal shamelessly. One question, it looks like in the first couple of pics there were multiple strips of tape that you worked in around and under the edges of the plaque, but in the video and pics of the plastic on, the blue stuff around the plaque appears to be one piece? If I am correct, how did you do that? Before I put the plastic on, I carefully applied the tape into the round groove and tried to get it in as deep as I could. To do this you have to use small pieces of tape 2 inches long. So it took 2 or 3 per side, and then I put a bigger piece on the top of the small pieces. Then I put the plastic on, and cut a square hole in the plastic around the Dash Plaque area. Then I taped the edges of the square hole. Click on these small thumbnail pic's and they will blow up bigger so you can see them better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 Thanks Rob. I am chicken to do mine but this helps. I know how you feel. It took me along time to get the guts to do this. If I failed, it would of been all on video, but now you can see how to do it and succeed. Sherry....you can do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2008 I put my car back under it's storage cover yesterday. Today I found myself looking in the car to make sure the signature was still good. It is. :happy feet: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewheelman Posted August 25, 2008 Report Share Posted August 25, 2008 Cool, very cool. I will spray mine before I mount it. One other question, where did you get the snake cover for the lighter plug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2008 Cool, very cool. I will spray mine before I mount it. One other question, where did you get the snake cover for the lighter plug? Got it here: http://www.mgwltd.com/mustang2005_power_outlet_plug.shtml Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rachane Posted August 25, 2008 Report Share Posted August 25, 2008 (edited) I've spent the last half-hour looking around on the Internet for an answer to the question: "Will 'sealed' sharpie ink still fade?" No answer yet. Certainly any UV protection, such as Krylon, will help. But I don't know whether the light rays/waves that cause fading do so by a function of heat, radiation, etc. It may be that the Krylon will protect the signature against flaking off, abrasion, but not fading per se. Any chemists or physicists out there? One thing is for sure: If you seal the signature under several layers of Krylon, you won't be able to carefully trace over it with another black sharpie should it fade. I have so far left my plaque untreated, but I have a small roll of black rubber "sponge" material (as you can get at any supermarket for a non-skid drawer liner for your fridge) held in place by its own tension between the tops of the center A/C ducts and the underside of the dash overhang. I wanted something that would hold itself in by gentle tension, not require any tape or other adhesive on the A/C outlet tops or overhang underside. This simply blocks sunlight from hitting the plaque. Doesn't look very aesthetic, and when I have some time I want to fashion a small "shade" for the plaque that will look better and still do the job. Too bad the plaque wasn't designed for somewhere on the dash where the sun wouldn't hit it so much. Michael Edited August 25, 2008 by maquino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2008 Do you have a Vert? My coupe rarely gets sun on the dash plaque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grabber Posted August 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2008 I've spent the last half-hour looking around on the Internet for an answer to the question: "Will 'sealed' sharpie ink still fade?" One thing is for sure: If you seal the signature under several layers of Krylon, you won't be able to carefully trace over it with another black sharpie should it fade. If you are real worried about it, you could order a back up plate, and just keep it in the box. One forsure thing, is that option will not be available forever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rachane Posted August 25, 2008 Report Share Posted August 25, 2008 From the official Sharpie FAQ: How long does a permanent marker last? We do not have a mathematical formula to figure how long a permanent marker will "last." With outdoor exposure on a nonporous surface, the marks from a dye base marker will be gone in perhaps three to four months. With indoor exposure on a porous surface, like artist canvas or paper, we would expect marks from a dye base marker to last several years. Resins or surfactants give the ink the ability to adhere to various surfaces. Thus, we have markers for non-porous and glossy surfaces, markers for oily or wet surfaces and markers that can withstand extreme heat. The solvents that are used mix all of the ingredients together, or dissolve them to form the ink. The solvents used also determine the solvent resistance of the markings. Various solvents used in inks are alcohol, ketone, xylene and glycol ethers. In answer to the question above, I have a coupe. But it seems that the "indent" in the dashtop overhang conspires with the Sun to bathe Mr. Shelby's signature in direct sunlight much of the time. <_< Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CH53Driver Posted August 26, 2008 Report Share Posted August 26, 2008 I think this should be a sticky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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