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Tire Pressure Management System


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After breaking in the line lock and smoking my tires; :shift: the low tire pressure lamps illuminated, indicating I had low tire pressure.

 

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I checked the tire pressure visually and all looked fine (I should have used a gauge).

 

So...I thought I had spun a sensor off of the band (don't know why I thought that) :doh:

 

Today I was told that if all 4 tires are not within 1-2 lbs of each of the sensor will indicate low pressure. :banghead:

 

So with proper inflation all was fine and no need for any new sensors.

 

Just incase you needed to know, cause I sure did not.

 

Take Care,

Andrew

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After breaking in the line lock and smoking my tires; :shift: the low tire pressure lamps illuminated, indicating I had low tire pressure.

 

web.jpg

 

I checked the tire pressure visually and all looked fine (I should have used a gauge).

 

So...I thought I had spun a sensor off of the band (don't know why I thought that) :doh:

 

Today I was told that if all 4 tires are not within 1-2 lbs of each of the sensor will indicate low pressure. :banghead:

 

So with proper inflation all was fine and no need for any new sensors.

 

Just incase you needed to know, cause I sure did not.

 

Take Care,

Andrew

 

That is interesting, because I'm running 36 in the front and 30 in the rear on my SGT using the GT500 wheels, and I don't have a problem at all with the light coming on...now if the temp drops drastically, the rears will set it off if they drop to say 26, but other than that, no issues with different pressures front/rear...

 

I think everyone thinks they can just look at a tire and tell whether or not it is low, but that just isn't always the case with tires now days...Always use a gauge to check your tires! It's the only way to be sure you have the correct pressures...

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That is interesting, because I'm running 36 in the front and 30 in the rear on my SGT using the GT500 wheels, and I don't have a problem at all with the light coming on...now if the temp drops drastically, the rears will set it off if they drop to say 26, but other than that, no issues with different pressures front/rear...

 

I think everyone thinks they can just look at a tire and tell whether or not it is low, but that just isn't always the case with tires now days...Always use a gauge to check your tires! It's the only way to be sure you have the correct pressures...

 

Thanks for the advise guys, I will always be using a gauge from now on ! And maybe my mechanic didn't get it quite right, but either way I've learned my lesson.

 

Andrew

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Thanks for this thread. Since I went to GT500 wheels and tires, I have been getting a tire pressure fault. Sounds like it can be different on different cars. I will try nailing the pressures so that all four have the same and see what happens.

Jim

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I was driving about 65mph on the highway when a light on the dash started flashing telling me I had "tire pressure sensor fault". Is this the same sensor you guys are talking about?? I pulled over, checked the tire pressure with a gauge and all was well. After 10 minutes the light went off then 10 min later it came back on. Anyone know what this is about? I hate taking my baby to the mechanic...

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Thanks for this thread. Since I went to GT500 wheels and tires, I have been getting a tire pressure fault. Sounds like it can be different on different cars. I will try nailing the pressures so that all four have the same and see what happens.

Jim

 

If you did not install or recalibrate the sensors when you put the tires and wheels on, then you will always get the light.

 

If you installed new sensors, or if you used the old ones but didn't put them in the same tire location (LF, LR, RF, RR) when you changed wheels and tires, bring the car to a tire shop and ask them to do it.

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If you did not install or recalibrate the sensors when you put the tires and wheels on, then you will always get the light.

 

If you installed new sensors, or if you used the old ones but didn't put them in the same tire location (LF, LR, RF, RR) when you changed wheels and tires, bring the car to a tire shop and ask them to do it.

 

OK, I can see if you are putting new sensors on that the calibration maybe needed. However, I don't think changing the location of the tires matters. First, the instrument panel light doesn't tell you which tire is low. Second, I have had my stock sensors moved twice now between three sets of wheels. The first time the tire shop didn't. I didn't watch them the whole time but I didn't see them taking any special care to make sure the sensors went back on the correct corner. And, I didn't see them use any calibration tool. The second time I changed wheels, the sensors sat in a box on my work bench for 6 weeks. They weren't marked or organized in any specific manner. When my new wheels arrived, I handed the box to the tire guys with out any instruction of which sensor was supposed to go where. I picked up the newly tire mounted wheels and tires with a truck. Drove them home and put the wheels on my jack standing car. I don't even own the tool. I strated the car and the light was on. I had been driving less than a mile when the instrument panel light went out and hasn't come on since, more than 1500 miles.

 

Now I have an additional set of sensors to put on a new set of wheels (hopefully this week). I'll see what happens with new sensors.

 

Disclaimer: I am not a tire and wheel expert or Ford technician. So, take my post with a grain of salt. I work with 2 makes of helicopters, 40 pilots, and about 30 aircraft mechanics. You might be amazed how many different ways the "experts" believe the any specific system works.

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If you did not install or recalibrate the sensors when you put the tires and wheels on, then you will always get the light.

 

If you installed new sensors, or if you used the old ones but didn't put them in the same tire location (LF, LR, RF, RR) when you changed wheels and tires, bring the car to a tire shop and ask them to do it.

I do own the tool and have recalibrated everything three times. The last time seems to have done it as I am not having the fault show at this point. I could well be that I did not do the recalibration correctly before. For $20, I bought the tool just to have around. Glad I did. The TPMS seems to be a bit quirky.

Jim

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OK, I can see if you are putting new sensors on that the calibration maybe needed. However, I don't think changing the location of the tires matters. First, the instrument panel light doesn't tell you which tire is low. Second, I have had my stock sensors moved twice now between three sets of wheels. The first time the tire shop didn't. I didn't watch them the whole time but I didn't see them taking any special care to make sure the sensors went back on the correct corner. And, I didn't see them use any calibration tool. The second time I changed wheels, the sensors sat in a box on my work bench for 6 weeks. They weren't marked or organized in any specific manner. When my new wheels arrived, I handed the box to the tire guys with out any instruction of which sensor was supposed to go where. I picked up the newly tire mounted wheels and tires with a truck. Drove them home and put the wheels on my jack standing car. I don't even own the tool. I strated the car and the light was on. I had been driving less than a mile when the instrument panel light went out and hasn't come on since, more than 1500 miles.

 

Now I have an additional set of sensors to put on a new set of wheels (hopefully this week). I'll see what happens with new sensors.

 

Disclaimer: I am not a tire and wheel expert or Ford technician. So, take my post with a grain of salt. I work with 2 makes of helicopters, 40 pilots, and about 30 aircraft mechanics. You might be amazed how many different ways the "experts" believe the any specific system works.

 

 

http://www.americanmuscle.com/understandin...stang-tpms.html

 

Excerpt fron the above link

 

Registering Your Sensors

 

When Ford places the sensors on the wheels at the factory, they are scanned and registered (assigned) to a specific wheel. This allows your technician to determine exactly where there is a problem. The sensors measure air pressure ONLY, so there is no need to register your sensors again if you buy larger rims. However, when having new wheels and tires mounted and balanced by a non-Ford Dealer, it is important that your tire technician put your sensors in the same location on the car.

 

For example, the sensor that was assigned to the Front Right Wheel will need to go on the new rim going in that location. If this is not done, you will need to re-register the sensors so that if there is a problem with the TPMS system, it can be properly diagnosed

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Spinning the tires will cause the tire temps and pressures to rise quickly. The imbalance is what probably triggered the warning.

 

The sensor trainer (scanner from above) is used to tell the car's computer which sensor is on which wheel position on the car. You can swap the sensors from rim to rim without having to retrain the sensor/computer as long as you put the new rim back on the same location on the car. The retraining takes both the car computer and the training tool to accomplish and is pretty easy.

 

Here's a link:

 

TPMS training sequence

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Ok, if they say so. But I read it; that if you get the warning light, the system will be able to tell the higly paid technician which tire is low. So they won't need to use a $15 tire pressure gauge to check up to four tires before they find the one with low pressure.

 

As I said, I am not an expert. I have just described my experiences. I'll probably buy the tool for my own use. I just tire (pun not intended) of designers and service managers coming up with more ways to charge me more money.

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As stated above, my experience with the TPMS is that sensors are NOT registered in any particular sequence ie., LF, RF, LR, RR, though you will follow this sequence while programing the sensor into the TMPS system.

 

I too replaced my stock SGT wheels with aftermarket wheels, and as it was stated above, the install was accomplished without concern for sensor location. Four sensors off, four on, and re-training was not necessary because the sensors were never more than five feet from the car during the swap.

 

The sensors transmit to the PCM by radio frequency, and transmit a serial number for the sensor. Once this serial number is registered, the training sequence is accomplished. Sequence is important only in registering the four sensors in a logical order. Once registered, tires can be rotated without concern for which corner they are moved to.

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That could be. I damaged one of my sensors when the nylon tie strap I used to transfer the sensor to my new wheels broke during a dyno test (stupid mistake on my part). When I replaced the sensor I thought I only had to retrain that particular wheel. However, the warning light still came on after we aborted the retrain session after doing the new sensor so once you get 1 new sensor you may have to retrain them all.

 

I think the instructions said that the senors remain on about 15 minutes after sensing no movement to save the battery included in the sensor.

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This appears to be some real guidance about the TPMS system. It appears to be for Police Department fleets using Ford Crown Victorias. The author, Michael Blackmer (in the foot note), is the Ford Police Package Chief Engineer (according to a Google search). Of note what it says about tire rotation.

 

https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/CVPI/TPMSPaperRev1.doc

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