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Rat's Ride


ratnacage

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Aren't these FRPP CNC-ported 3V heads gorgeous! Unfortunately they're almost $2,600/pair and you still have to buy the cams, followers and lash adjusters! ...but I bet you can make some HP with the right cams in them and the FRPP 3V intake.

 

If you scroll further down that page, might as well spring for the 5.0 stroker with all the forged goodies, another $2,300! <lol>

 

I know, they're just too pricey, but still nice to dream. Makes you appreciate all the stuff Saleen puts in the PJ too. ;-)

 

Great, just when I think I'm out of things to spend big money on (while staying NA), you have to go and post this? When I end up divorced, you're going to be named to provide child support (this will free up the necessary funds to do whatever I want to my "other" child - the red headed one!!) :hysterical2:

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Later this week I'll also be exchanging the rubber on my car. The 285/35's couldn't really handle what I had, so with the new power I'm going with Nitto 555 Extreme Perfrmance 295/45/18's in back and 245/45/18 in front. Should give it a nice steamroller look in back.

 

Having been without my car for a week, I have a new appreciation for those of you waiting on your GT500 (PSDS)

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Later this week I'll also be exchanging the rubber on my car. The 285/35's couldn't really handle what I had, so with the new power I'm going with Nitto 555 Extreme Perfrmance 295/45/18's in back and 245/45/18 in front. Should give it a nice steamroller look in back.

 

Having been without my car for a week, I have a new appreciation for those of you waiting on your GT500 (PSDS)

 

 

Hey Rat,

 

I wouldn't run a 245/45/18 in front with a 295/45/18 in the rear. The 245/45/18 is 26 inch diameter and the 295/45/18 is 28 inchs in diameter. I'd run a 245/45/18 in front and a 295/40/18 in the rear. The diameters would only be about a 1 inch difference.

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Hey Rat,

 

I wouldn't run a 245/45/18 in front with a 295/45/18 in the rear. The 245/45/18 is 26 inch diameter and the 295/45/18 is 28 inchs in diameter. I'd run a 245/45/18 in front and a 295/40/18 in the rear. The diameters would only be about a 1 inch difference.

 

No car yet. Didn't make it on the dyno today. ....I'm going crazy!!

 

tires: I don't know what to do. I definitely need the taller sidewalls I'd get from 295/45's to help in the gripping dept. I'll just have to see how they look and decide then. Do you think there'll be a concern regarding the anti-lock brakes?

 

I'm getting them from Discount Tire so I can change them out if I don't like them. We'll see.

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Rat, this Wheel and Tire Size Calculator might be usefull too. Tires vary by brand, but for a given brand this should be pretty darn accurate as far as F/R differences are concerned.

 

---

 

So, does that mean you like those heads <lol> [remember the kids, remember the kids, remem.....] ;)

 

-Dan

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No car yet. Didn't make it on the dyno today. ....I'm going crazy!!

 

tires: I don't know what to do. I definitely need the taller sidewalls I'd get from 295/45's to help in the gripping dept. I'll just have to see how they look and decide then. Do you think there'll be a concern regarding the anti-lock brakes?

 

I'm getting them from Discount Tire so I can change them out if I don't like them. We'll see.

 

 

Exactly, rule of thumb is to stay within a 3% difference in tire diameter. Any thing more could possibly throw off the ABS and TCS systems. In the combo I posted, 245/45/18 and 295/40/18, the side wall height is 4.34 vs 4.64 inchs. I don't think you would have any problem with them.

 

My advice is to go to a local tire store and have them set the tires side by side so you can visually compare them.

 

I used to sell wheels/tires so if you have any more questions feel free to PM me.

 

Jim

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Exactly, rule of thumb is to stay within a 3% difference in tire diameter. Any thing more could possibly throw off the ABS and TCS systems. In the combo I posted, 245/45/18 and 295/40/18, the side wall height is 4.34 vs 4.64 inchs. I don't think you would have any problem with them.

 

My advice is to go to a local tire store and have them set the tires side by side so you can visually compare them.

 

I used to sell wheels/tires so if you have any more questions feel free to PM me.

 

Jim

 

Thanks, I appreciate the advice. I'm definitely going to take a step back and rethink this.

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The video itself is lame, it doesn't spend any time before the run so you can hear the idle - I didn't shoot the video so don't blame me. Also the squealing noise you hear at the end is not my car!!

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=1395968346483058386

 

The idle is something else! It really sounds like a big block and actually shakes the car gently, but not like it's about to fall apart. Tomorrow I'm going to get it cleaned up and shoot some video of it idling.

 

The tune up is not complete yet. It is complete enough to get a good WOT output, but Nick (the tuner) thinks there's a 350 rwhp reading to be tapped. The car needs further tuning in partial throttle to improve drivability. Currently it wants to stall sometimes and normal acceleration is labored until it hits about 3000 rpm...but when it hits 3000 rpm all hell breaks loose - it's literally neck snapping and just keeps pulling and pullling.

 

On a test drive tonight we were driving down a low-traffic street. I dropped it to 2nd and held on. There was a car coming but I didn't think anything of it....until we passed each other. It was a cop and I had just blown past him with my engine screaming at nearly 7000 rpm (the new redline). Incredibly, he didn't turn around - chalk one up to lady luck I guess.

 

There's still some more fine tuning to do for WOT and drivability, but I am VERY happy....my neighbors may not be so happy. :happy feet: :banana piano:

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Rat - oh, daddy! 7k redline? Yikes. I've got 6500.

 

You are puttin' it down! :rockon:

 

We got to 341 without pushing it to 7000, but on the next dyno session that's what we're going to do. We'll see if with additional tuning and taking it to 7000 it gets us to 350 rwhp (403 crank). Maybe I'll go to an aluminum DS to put it solidly over the 400 crank hp hump. I may do the throttle body too. Then again, maybe enough is enough...yeah, right, who am I kidding?

 

Actually, I think going to an alum DS won't change crank HP, just rwhp. hmm.

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Here's video of the car idling: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3605688053502907809

 

Unfortunately the wind interfered a bit and the camera's speakers really don't capture the very substantial bass note produced. It's substantial enough that you can feel it throughout your body. However, surprisingly, once you get the revs above idle, the engine is very smooth.

 

When we get it on the dyno again I'll do a good quality video of it start to finish.

 

While I'm waiting for the video to be available I attached some pics - not much different except the mirrors are painted now.

post-5356-1175145921_thumb.jpg

post-5356-1175145958_thumb.jpg

post-5356-1175145921_thumb.jpg

post-5356-1175145958_thumb.jpg

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Very nice!!! Any loss of low end torque with the cams???

 

 

I think what's most impressive about this is the fact that we can get 400hp with what I consider minor mods. I'm betting with a set of ported heads Rat's car would be putting out some where in the 425 - 430hp range (FRPP claims their heads are worth 25hp on a stock motor). Add a larger throttle body and either the Fast or C&L intake and could 450hp be that far away??!!

 

Just for comparison, the Terms were making 425hp (crank) stock when they came out.

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Very nice!!! Any loss of low end torque with the cams???

I think what's most impressive about this is the fact that we can get 400hp with what I consider minor mods. I'm betting with a set of ported heads Rat's car would be putting out some where in the 425 - 430hp range (FRPP claims their heads are worth 25hp on a stock motor). Add a larger throttle body and either the Fast or C&L intake and could 450hp be that far away??!!

 

Just for comparison, the Terms were making 425hp (crank) stock when they came out.

 

I'm wondering if shaving the heads would be worth considering or if with this cam if there's even enough clearance (I'm not seriously considering it, it's just a thought that crossed my mind).

 

It's hard to say about the low end torque because there's a bit of a flat spot under 3000 rpm that we need to get sorted out.

 

By the way, in the latest issue of 5.0 Magazine, Nick (the tuner) has a twin turbo stang featured starting on page 150.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally got some new shoes. Nitto 555 Extreme, 295/45/18 in back. The fronts (to be installed Friday) will be 245/45/18. Interestingly, the combination of 295/45's in back and the currently installed 245/40's up front have not resulted in any abnormal indications or performance by the anti-lock braking system.

 

I purposely did not get a profile shot of the whole car because I'm going to wait until I have the 245/45's on up front.

 

Friday it goes back on the dyno - hoping to hit the magic 400 (engine hp) :hyper:

 

Pictures....

post-5356-1176331736_thumb.jpg

post-5356-1176331774_thumb.jpg

post-5356-1176331821_thumb.jpg

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I finally got some new shoes. Nitto 555 Extreme, 295/45/18 in back. The fronts (to be installed Friday) will be 245/45/18. Interestingly, the combination of 295/45's in back and the currently installed 245/40's up front have not resulted in any abnormal indications or performance by the anti-lock braking system.

 

I purposely did not get a profile shot of teh whole car because I'm going to wait until I have the 245/45's on up front.

 

Friday it goes back on the dyno - hoping to hit the magic 400 (engine hp) :hyper:

 

Pictures....

 

 

Man those rear tires look really close to the fender lip!!! :ohsnap:

 

 

Any issues with clearance Rat???

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Man those rear tires look really close to the fender lip!!! :ohsnap:

Any issues with clearance Rat???

 

No clearance issues. They're meaty, but since the fender lip comes rolled from the factory, the whole suspension could collapse, and the tire would tuck up there nice and neat. 305's might be pushing it.

 

Ground clearance was more of an issue with the previous tire combo. These will actually give a little better clearance. However, clearance was not too big an issue even with the old set of tires due to the lack of chin spoilers, body kits, etc. Sometimes it posed a problem for lifts though.

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No clearance issues. They're meaty, but since the fender lip comes rolled from the factory, the whole suspension could collapse, and the tire would tuck up there nice and neat. 305's might be pushing it.

 

Ground clearance was more of an issue with the previous tire combo. These will actually give a little better clearance. However, clearance was not too big an issue even with the old set of tires due to the lack of chin spoilers, body kits, etc. Sometimes it posed a problem for lifts though.

 

 

I hear ya on the lift issue. I have 295/35/18's and my car is lowered by 1.5 inchs. I cringe every time the guys at Evolution put the car up on the lift.

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Hey Rat, what a sweet sound!!!!

 

...nothing quite like the lope & crackle of an NA motor with cams and headers ;)

 

Sits really nice too! ...rear wells are just so nicely filled... very very nice, Rat!

 

I'd be really interested what kind of milage you getting on a nice long highway cruise at 70 (if you ever manage to take it easy long enough to get a good milage calc <lol>)

 

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Ruf, have you noticed what kind of milage you're getting just flat cruising with the comp3s?

 

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Jim, even my friend's stock-susp '01 Cobra is pretty close on Evo's ramps ;-)

 

-Dan

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