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Shelby Billet Pedal Covers


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I just finished the project and I say project because my fingers are too big! You'll see why.

 

The instructions included are well done. There are a couple of key notes here that make the job progress more smoothly.

1. The hardware is small and can get lost easily if you are not organized

2. Purchase an "automatic" center punch from Home Depot. About $8-$9 for center punching your marks

3. You need to notch the accelerator pedal. The bracket will not fit very well if you do not do this step.

4. Do not try to place the accelerator pedal cover on with the pedal still in the car. Remove the pedal. One electrical connection and 3 10mm nuts. See #3.

5. I recommend placing a small drop of "blue" thread locker on the screws.

6. Forget the 1/16" drill bit. You will break it on the first try. Go right to the 1/8" drill bit then enlarge the holes to 9/32" it is a little larger than recommended by gives you some wiggle room if you did not properly drill the holes in the first place.

 

Here goes:

Place a catch mat under your work area.

 

This is the begining: The pedal covers just peel off of the pedal. Start at one corner and peel back from the pedal

Shelbypedalinstallation001.jpg

 

This is what the pedals will look like once off

Shelbypedalinstallation005.jpg

 

Now apply masking tape on the pedal covers

Shelbypedalinstallation006.jpg

 

Place the cover over the pedal and mark the 3 beveled holes with a sharpie

Shelbypedalinstallation007.jpg

 

Remove and cover. This is what you should have once done with the above step

Shelbypedalinstallation009.jpg

 

Now using the center punch, punch the center of each mark to act as a guide for your drill bit. This is what you should have. Small indentations in the tape

Shelbypedalinstallation011.jpg

 

Here is a pictue of the center punch.

Shelbypedalinstallation010.jpg

 

The instructions state to begin with a 1/16" drill bit and then step up to a 1/8" and finally a 7/32". You will snap the 1/8". I began with the 1/8" and then went one size larger than the instructions to allow for some movement and centering prior to tightening. Your call.

A picture after the holes are drilled and tape removed. You need to also deburr the holes so the nuts and washers fit flat on the pedal

Shelbypedalinstallation015.jpg

 

Here is the hardware. You need to have small fingers for this when installing. The worse nut is the upper left on the brake pedal. Have patience. I placed a small drop of "blue" thread locker on each screw for piece of mind.

Shelbypedalinstallation013.jpg

 

When attempting the throttle pedal, remove the 3 10mm nuts that hold the pedal to the firewall. When the pedal is removed you will see an electrical connection attached. Yes, that is your throttle. That bunch of wires. There is a red area that slids upward then pop the connection straight up. With the pedal in your hand I found that the cover does not fit flat enough for me. I removed the 2 screws from the rear of the pedal and the pedal face came off. This gives you more room to install the brackets and allows the pedal cover to sit flat against the backing.

 

The accelerator pedal needs to be notched out in the rear upper right corner. With the pedal cover off the original, apply the supplied 3M tape to the rear center of the "New" pedal cover. Then place the pedal cover over the accelerator pedal and press firmly in the center where you placed the tape.

 

Now test fit the upper bracket. This is where you will see that a little "notching" needs to take place. Just trim the angled piece of plastic flat to the side and bottom. A dremel tool works great. Only takes about 1 minuite. Now install the bracket, screws and nyloc nuts. The bottom of the pedal requires no noching at all. Just install the bracket, screws and nyloc nuts.

 

When installing the accelerator pedal assembly back into the car, plug in the electrical connector and slide the "red" tab down. Then place back on the studs of the fire wall and tighten down the 3 10mm nuts. There is really no torque # for these I just went snug and 3/4 of a turn.

 

Here is the finished product.

Shelbypedalinstallation016.jpg

 

Good luck of you decide to install this mod and I hope this helps.

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Again very helpfull.

How do the new pedals feel while driving?

Are they slick or firm....?

Dan

 

Dan,

 

I had the opportunity to take the car out for a run on one of my favorite back roads. The pedals feel great. Not slick at all. The raised holes provide more grip with the driving shoes and feel about the same without. Funny thing though the clutch and brake pedals feel lighter than the stockers. :shrug:

 

Roger

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Dan,

 

I had the opportunity to take the car out for a run on one of my favorite back roads. The pedals feel great. Not slick at all. The raised holes provide more grip with the driving shoes and feel about the same without. Funny thing though the clutch and brake pedals feel lighter than the stockers. :shrug:

 

Roger

 

Thanks.

Driving shoes???!!

Man, I can't afford to keep up! :rolleyes:

1st the stripes, then the CS69's... Oh the humanity!

 

J/K. THey look great and I wanted these, good to know they're quality without a downside.

Dan

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I just finished the project and I say project because my fingers are too big! You'll see why.

 

The instructions included are well done. There are a couple of key notes here that make the job progress more smoothly.

1. The hardware is small and can get lost easily if you are not organized

2. Purchase an "automatic" center punch from Home Depot. About $8-$9 for center punching your marks

3. You need to notch the accelerator pedal. The bracket will not fit very well if you do not do this step.

4. Do not try to place the accelerator pedal cover on with the pedal still in the car. Remove the pedal. One electrical connection and 3 10mm nuts. See #3.

5. I recommend placing a small drop of "blue" thread locker on the screws.

6. Forget the 1/16" drill bit. You will break it on the first try. Go right to the 1/8" drill bit then enlarge the holes to 9/32" it is a little larger than recommended by gives you some wiggle room if you did not properly drill the holes in the first place.

 

Here goes:

Place a catch mat under your work area.

 

This is the begining: The pedal covers just peel off of the pedal. Start at one corner and peel back from the pedal

Shelbypedalinstallation001.jpg

 

This is what the pedals will look like once off

Shelbypedalinstallation005.jpg

 

Now apply masking tape on the pedal covers

Shelbypedalinstallation006.jpg

 

Place the cover over the pedal and mark the 3 beveled holes with a sharpie

Shelbypedalinstallation007.jpg

 

Remove and cover. This is what you should have once done with the above step

Shelbypedalinstallation009.jpg

 

Now using the center punch, punch the center of each mark to act as a guide for your drill bit. This is what you should have. Small indentations in the tape

Shelbypedalinstallation011.jpg

 

Here is a pictue of the center punch.

Shelbypedalinstallation010.jpg

 

The instructions state to begin with a 1/16" drill bit and then step up to a 1/8" and finally a 7/32". You will snap the 1/8". I began with the 1/8" and then went one size larger than the instructions to allow for some movement and centering prior to tightening. Your call.

A picture after the holes are drilled and tape removed. You need to also deburr the holes so the nuts and washers fit flat on the pedal

Shelbypedalinstallation015.jpg

 

Here is the hardware. You need to have small fingers for this when installing. The worse nut is the upper left on the brake pedal. Have patience. I placed a small drop of "blue" thread locker on each screw for piece of mind.

Shelbypedalinstallation013.jpg

 

When attempting the throttle pedal, remove the 3 10mm nuts that hold the pedal to the firewall. When the pedal is removed you will see an electrical connection attached. Yes, that is your throttle. That bunch of wires. There is a red area that slids upward then pop the connection straight up. With the pedal in your hand I found that the cover does not fit flat enough for me. I removed the 2 screws from the rear of the pedal and the pedal face came off. This gives you more room to install the brackets and allows the pedal cover to sit flat against the backing.

 

The accelerator pedal needs to be notched out in the rear upper right corner. With the pedal cover off the original, apply the supplied 3M tape to the rear center of the "New" pedal cover. Then place the pedal cover over the accelerator pedal and press firmly in the center where you placed the tape.

 

Now test fit the upper bracket. This is where you will see that a little "notching" needs to take place. Just trim the angled piece of plastic flat to the side and bottom. A dremel tool works great. Only takes about 1 minuite. Now install the bracket, screws and nyloc nuts. The bottom of the pedal requires no noching at all. Just install the bracket, screws and nyloc nuts.

 

When installing the accelerator pedal assembly back into the car, plug in the electrical connector and slide the "red" tab down. Then place back on the studs of the fire wall and tighten down the 3 10mm nuts. There is really no torque # for these I just went snug and 3/4 of a turn.

 

Here is the finished product.

Shelbypedalinstallation016.jpg

 

Good luck of you decide to install this mod and I hope this helps.

 

 

Roger-

thanks for the detailed install info/tips. How long did this project take you? I'm in the same boat with the big hands issue-have been debating wether I wanted to go with these or not, but now that I see them installed, I really like the look.

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Larry,

 

The brake and clutch pedals took about 1 hr. taking my time with all of the materials and tools gathered prior to starting. That included the breaking of the 1/8" bits :cry:

 

I think it took 20 min to figure out how to get the small nut and washer on the upper left side of the brake pedal. I finally took a piece of blue masking tape and stuck it to my finger to keep it in place. Hey.....it worked.

 

The throttle pedal took about 45 min. But that was removing the entire pedal assembly and triming the back side of the pedal so the upper bracket would fit more flush with the rear of the pedal cover.

 

I would give this a 2.5 wrench scale of complexity! :lol:

 

If you and Steve do the project together and run into any isssue with the install, just give me a call.

 

Here is my cell number: 401-743-4100.

 

Roger

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That's what I figured. I won't be at Denny's tomorrow, I'm going to Newport. :shift: I'll catch up with you at some point.

 

Well I'm not making it to Denny's tonight either. My son and grandson are coming over and we will be working on finishing the landcape.

 

Roger

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Roger,

Thanks. I figured you'd know! I ordered the pedals and the dead pedal on Monday. Appreciate the insight on the B/O.

 

 

I think you will be very pleased. Let me know how the install goes. Don't forget the accelerator pedal. Take it out. It's worth the extra time and effort and remove the face. It makes for a much cleaner install. You will see that you will need to trim one of the upper support areas to get the bracket to sit flat to the surface. but it is worth it. My number is listed above, any questions just call. I'll be glad to help if I can.

 

Roger

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  • 10 months later...
I just finished the project and I say project because my fingers are too big! You'll see why.

 

The instructions included are well done. There are a couple of key notes here that make the job progress more smoothly.

1. The hardware is small and can get lost easily if you are not organized

2. Purchase an "automatic" center punch from Home Depot. About $8-$9 for center punching your marks

3. You need to notch the accelerator pedal. The bracket will not fit very well if you do not do this step.

4. Do not try to place the accelerator pedal cover on with the pedal still in the car. Remove the pedal. One electrical connection and 3 10mm nuts. See #3.

5. I recommend placing a small drop of "blue" thread locker on the screws.

6. Forget the 1/16" drill bit. You will break it on the first try. Go right to the 1/8" drill bit then enlarge the holes to 9/32" it is a little larger than recommended by gives you some wiggle room if you did not properly drill the holes in the first place.

 

Here goes:

Place a catch mat under your work area.

 

This is the begining: The pedal covers just peel off of the pedal. Start at one corner and peel back from the pedal

Shelbypedalinstallation001.jpg

 

This is what the pedals will look like once off

Shelbypedalinstallation005.jpg

 

Now apply masking tape on the pedal covers

Shelbypedalinstallation006.jpg

 

Place the cover over the pedal and mark the 3 beveled holes with a sharpie

Shelbypedalinstallation007.jpg

 

Remove and cover. This is what you should have once done with the above step

Shelbypedalinstallation009.jpg

 

Now using the center punch, punch the center of each mark to act as a guide for your drill bit. This is what you should have. Small indentations in the tape

Shelbypedalinstallation011.jpg

 

Here is a pictue of the center punch.

Shelbypedalinstallation010.jpg

 

The instructions state to begin with a 1/16" drill bit and then step up to a 1/8" and finally a 7/32". You will snap the 1/8". I began with the 1/8" and then went one size larger than the instructions to allow for some movement and centering prior to tightening. Your call.

A picture after the holes are drilled and tape removed. You need to also deburr the holes so the nuts and washers fit flat on the pedal

Shelbypedalinstallation015.jpg

 

Here is the hardware. You need to have small fingers for this when installing. The worse nut is the upper left on the brake pedal. Have patience. I placed a small drop of "blue" thread locker on each screw for piece of mind.

Shelbypedalinstallation013.jpg

 

When attempting the throttle pedal, remove the 3 10mm nuts that hold the pedal to the firewall. When the pedal is removed you will see an electrical connection attached. Yes, that is your throttle. That bunch of wires. There is a red area that slids upward then pop the connection straight up. With the pedal in your hand I found that the cover does not fit flat enough for me. I removed the 2 screws from the rear of the pedal and the pedal face came off. This gives you more room to install the brackets and allows the pedal cover to sit flat against the backing.

 

The accelerator pedal needs to be notched out in the rear upper right corner. With the pedal cover off the original, apply the supplied 3M tape to the rear center of the "New" pedal cover. Then place the pedal cover over the accelerator pedal and press firmly in the center where you placed the tape.

 

Now test fit the upper bracket. This is where you will see that a little "notching" needs to take place. Just trim the angled piece of plastic flat to the side and bottom. A dremel tool works great. Only takes about 1 minuite. Now install the bracket, screws and nyloc nuts. The bottom of the pedal requires no noching at all. Just install the bracket, screws and nyloc nuts.

 

When installing the accelerator pedal assembly back into the car, plug in the electrical connector and slide the "red" tab down. Then place back on the studs of the fire wall and tighten down the 3 10mm nuts. There is really no torque # for these I just went snug and 3/4 of a turn.

 

Here is the finished product.

Shelbypedalinstallation016.jpg

 

Good luck of you decide to install this mod and I hope this helps.

 

 

Finally got around to doing this mod and it looks great! Thanks to Roger for this (and the dead pedal) write up!

 

Sam

 

AKA:

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I did this installation last November, with the same general comment: it takes some small fingers or a bit of ingenuity to get the nuts in the right places. The throttle pedal cover went on with no removal or additional problems, fit good as shipped. An hour-long job for my limited skills and fat fingers, and (apparently) lesser demands for "clean", installation-wise.

 

I like the way the edges of the pedal covers grip the soles of shoes. Very secure feelings there.

 

 

I'd like to suggest to some posters that they remember to trim when they quote. Three iterations of those fine photos wore out my scroll finger.

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Just put on the Brake and Clutch pedals, what a pain in the ASS. I used the Punch, but the drill bit kept crawling anyway. I ended up just putting the pedals on and drilling using the holes as a pilot, worked great, wish I had done that from the start. And then the bolts gave me the most difficult time, I am sure my frustration and lack of patience did not help matters :banghead::banghead: . Oh well, they are on. Now to do the Accelerator Pedal

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I did this installation last November, with the same general comment: it takes some small fingers or a bit of ingenuity to get the nuts in the right places. The throttle pedal cover went on with no removal or additional problems, fit good as shipped. An hour-long job for my limited skills and fat fingers, and (apparently) lesser demands for "clean", installation-wise.

 

I like the way the edges of the pedal covers grip the soles of shoes. Very secure feelings there.

 

 

I'd like to suggest to some posters that they remember to trim when they quote. Three iterations of those fine photos wore out my scroll finger.

 

 

Sorry Frank! I thought I was saving fingers by getting a set of those pics on this page! :P

 

Dead Pedal was a bit frustrating. (Dang 13mm bolt was tightened by a gorilla!) Clutch and Brake nearly drove me insane! (One bent and two broken bits, caused by the wandering, drilled slightly larger holes to accomodate) Finally, the accelerator pedal was WAAAAAAYYYYY easier, especially if you remove it from the firewall! (Just got to be a contortionist or have extra long arms to get to those 10mm nuts!)

 

I am glad to see that everyone's carpet ends where mine does - I thought some was missing!

 

Sam

 

AKA:

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Just a tip for those installing the Shelby dead pedal - apply a small amount of blue lock-tight on the threads of the four screws that secure the pedal to the bracket. You don't want to have to remove that bracket again if the screws ever back out. My pedal only came with two screws; had to run to ACE hardware to get two more.

 

Also, tuck in the carpeting before fully securing the 13mm bolt.

 

Dead_Pedal_Back.jpgDead_Pedal_Installed_3.jpg

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