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I was wondering if any of you have had experience with CHE. I'm sick of the 2-3 missed shift problem, and I think this K-Member brace with engine torque limiters is the answer. I think the Hurst shifter might actually do its job just fine, but the guts need to stay still under acceleration!

To me, there's a lot of slop in the feel of the drivetrain, which I would hope to tighten up. Maybe I'm crazy or oversensitive, but it feels like my transmission's bouncing around in the tunnel - reminds me of an old TransAm I had that needed new tranny mounts every six months! :(

I don't wanna refine the "race" out of the "racecar", but if I can get a more solid feel from the driveline, that's a performance mod in my book. :rockon:




...plus their driveshaft looks good, too...



Seems like a good package of upgrades to do at once: Driveshaft, brace, and adjustable Panhard bar...? And maybe 4:10 gears? Hmmmm? Ya feelin' it?





p.s. Can we have a moment of silence for the new guy who's been bitten by the mod bug?

I can picture the old school hot-rodders reading my posts and thinking "Aw, they're so cute when they're puppies!"

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Your toast!!!!!!!!!!!! :hysterical::hysterical: You've got the BUG!!!!!


To answer your question. I have CHE upper and lower single adjustable control arms. Great products and good people to work with. I do not have the front K brace. But their quality is good.


The driveshaft is from PowerHouse Automotive. It looks like a pretty good piece as well.


Hope this helps.



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This is an excellent mod that should be considered by anyone serious about tweaking power from the SGT. It is very similar to the things we used to weld in place back in the '60s, from front mounted engine plates to running a length of heavy chain from the driver's side of the frame to the front of the engine (torque twist is from left to right).


Keeping the engine locked down in one place under power insures that more power moves from the crank into the driveline. Engine mounts back in the '60 were weak, just hard rubber formed around steel brackets. Very frail if you had enough power, and if you popped one under WOT, it was very likely that your mechanical throttle linkage would stick at full open. I've seen carbs come through the hood when an engine mount gave up the ghost.


A stuck throttle wasn't good, and locking down the engine is step one in sealing off torque leaks. The more you seal off, the more power you see at the back wheels. This problem eventually led to the development of cable operated throttles in the '70, and today we have "drive by wire" as well.


I haven't experienced any shifter bind yet, maybe my day is coming? But, I'm not going to wait for that day. Moreover, I would look into poly engine and tranny mounts. They will fortify your torque transfer. They may also contribute to a stiffer ride, but if your game is power to the wheels, it's a must have...IMHO.


I can't say if this particular product is the answer, I'd have to test one first. But, it looks good and the theory behind it is well over 40 years old. Locking the engine and tranny down was a common practice when I learned it 40 years ago.


For the money involved, can't hurt to give it a try. I am confident you will get more results from this mod, than adding a Steeda induction elbow, but this is...Just my .02C.


Happy motoring, gents.

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Well, there's your answer(s)...Roger and Mac have endorsed it so it must be GREAT! I have seen this particular unit on another GT Mustang that was set up for drag racing in Hawaii, and the guy swore by it! Looks like something I'd like to add to my SGT just for giggles and a little extra stiffness...he he he

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