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Balance Problems With 20" Razors?


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My son just graduated from high school. So what does he do with his graduation money? Why he buys a set of 20" Shelby Razors for his car!! :hysterical:

 

He had a local tire shop mount a set of tires and put them on his car. However, they can't get rid of a wheel/tire balance problem. It's a shake through the steering wheel at about 40 MPH.

 

Has anybody had similiar issues with the Razors? He has a 2006 V6.

 

Thanks!!!

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My son just graduated from high school. So what does he do with his graduation money? Why he buys a set of 20" Shelby Razors for his car!! :hysterical:

 

He had a local tire shop mount a set of tires and put them on his car. However, they can't get rid of a wheel/tire balance problem. It's a shake through the steering wheel at about 40 MPH.

 

Has anybody had similiar issues with the Razors? He has a 2006 V6.

 

Thanks!!!

 

Perfect balance on mine. Maybe the little V-6 just can't cut it so it rattles and shakes every time it hears the Shelby name! Sorry had to say it! :hysterical:

 

Just joking of course!

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Wow...Vibration at 40 MPH is very unusual, and could be a sign of a severe condition. I haven't read of any problems with Razors on this forum, but there may be other reasons behind this.

 

Did you (your son) bring over the TPMS sensors from the stock wheels? If so, they should be mounted 180 degrees away from the valve stem. This is a common error around here, because other types of TPMS sensors have the sensor built into the valve stem. Ford didn't use that style on the S197 Mustang, and tire jockeys often confuse the correct location. Other things to check...

 

-Mounting and balancing should be done by a professional, using equipment designed for the job.

-Both tire beads are securely mounted.

-There is no obstruction between the mounting hub and the wheel, and the wheel/tire assembly is securely seated on the hub.

-All of the lugs have been properly torqued.

 

The definition of balance is the uniform distribution of mass about an axis of rotation, where the center of gravity is in the same location as the center of rotation. In plain language, a balanced tire is when the mass of the tire, when mounted on its wheel and the car's axle, is uniformly distributed around the axle. Even easier yet, how about...there are no heavy spots?

 

Balanced tires can be the difference between a good or bad driving experience. Some cars (and drivers) are more sensitive to an out of balance tire than others, but no one is happy with a vibration.

 

An out of balance tire can adversely affect ride quality, shorten the life of your tires, bearings, shocks and other suspension components. If you have a vibration that is dependent on speed, and usually becomes noticeable around 40-45 mph and increases as your speed increases, it's probably balance related.

 

The other primary cause of vibrations is that the tire and wheel assembly isn't perfectly round. Face it, if we go out far enough past the decimal point, nothing is perfectly round. This includes your wheels and tires. The problem is when the high spot on the tire, and the high spot on the wheel end up being matched to each other. This effectively doubles the amount of "hop" or runout. If re-balancing doesn't cure the vibration problem, have your professional installer check the runout of the tire.

 

If there is a "hop", many times the problem can be fixed by simply rotating the tire on the wheel slightly. The tech should loosen the tire on the wheel, and turn it 180 degrees, and reinflate the tire after relubricating the bead. The runout should be significantly reduced or eliminated, and if it's not, try it again, but this time rotate only 90 degrees, and if that doesn't work, try 180 degrees on the third try. Done this way, the high spot on the tire has been tried at each quarter of the wheel. At one of those points, the tire should be good and round. At that point, rebalance the tire using the "road force balance" machine, and go for a test drive. A RFB will reveal an out of round wheel and tire, if the vibration persists, the problem is either in the tire, or elsewhere in the vehicle.

 

I'm one of those "vibration sensitive" drivers, even the slightest vibration bugs me. I've rotated tires on the wheel many times over to achieve the best possible balance, even when others driving my car cannot detect vibration. I just want everything right, should I feel like crossing the 100 MPH line on a limited access highway.

 

Good luck, and keep us posted?

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When I had mine installed last Monday, the tire/wheel place mentioned some kind of hub ring. I called SPP and they said these wheels don't need that, but there are some kind of cleat on or by the calipers that need to be removed so the wheel sits evenly on the hub. I told that to the installer, but didn't watch what they actually did. All I know is they seem to be completely smooth and in balance.

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When I had mine installed last Monday, the tire/wheel place mentioned some kind of hub ring. I called SPP and they said these wheels don't need that, but there are some kind of cleat on or by the calipers that need to be removed so the wheel sits evenly on the hub. I told that to the installer, but didn't watch what they actually did. All I know is they seem to be completely smooth and in balance.

 

It's called a keeper clip - used on the assembly line to keep rotor in place as the car travels down the assembly line. Serves no purpose after assembly and should be removed prior to installation of any aftermarket wheels.

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post-20610-1214751544.jpg

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This was the cause of some 20" wheels we had on a customers car.

 

The wheel would shake at about 40 mph. We did everything trying to correct the problem. They thought the rims were bent. All 4 rims???

 

Also, going down the road you could see the wheels wobbling on the car.

 

The problem? Each of the hubs had ONE retainer clip and that ONE stupid retainer clip was the cause of all this!

 

After removing the retainer clips the problem was solved!

 

Here is a video I took of the wheels when the retainer clips were on. You can see how bad they wobbled.

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93N0YHmWyZ0

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This was the cause of some 20" wheels we had on a customers car.

 

The wheel would shake at about 40 mph. We did everything trying to correct the problem. They thought the rims were bent. All 4 rims???

 

Also, going down the road you could see the wheels wobbling on the car.

 

The problem? Each of the hubs had ONE retainer clip and that ONE stupid retainer clip was the cause of all this!

 

After removing the retainer clips the problem was solved!

 

Here is a video I took of the wheels when the retainer clips were on. You can see how bad they wobbled.

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93N0YHmWyZ0

 

Thanks, guys. I'll take a look.

 

My son is bummed about how they tuned out so far.

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We finally had a chance to take the Razors off. Sure, enough. The retainers were there. We removed them and replaced the wheels.

 

The balance problem is gone!!! :happy feet: :happy feet:

 

Thanks guys!!!

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We finally had a chance to take the Shelbys off. Sure, enough. The retainers were there. We removed them and replaced the wheels.

 

The balance problem is gone!!! :happy feet: :happy feet:

 

Thanks guys!!!

I love it when a problem is solved by the Team Shelby crew.

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so you just removed the brake clip and the balancing is corrected?

 

Yes.

 

The "clip" looks like a lock washer with internal teeth. It's on one of the five wheel studs at each wheel. I looked at the original wheels and they have a counter bore that creates a clearance on the wheel mounting surface at the stud through hole. The Razors didn't have the counterbore. So, the clip prevented that part of the surface from mounting flush.

 

I hope that helps....

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Yes.

 

The "clip" looks like a lock washer with internal teeth. It's on one of the five wheel studs at each wheel. I looked at the original wheels and they have a counter bore that creates a clearance on the wheel mounting surface at the stud through hole. The Razors didn't have the counterbore. So, the clip prevented that part of the surface from mounting flush.

 

I hope that helps....

 

Helped out a lot:) I was about to spend another 50 dollars to try to get it corrected.Thank you again

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Man I hope that is all it is , I have the exact problem, I only drove it to shelby fest and short trips around town, and the wobble and shaking is driving me nuts, I will put G-force balnace on them and check the 180 and the retainer today!! Thanks Guys

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Man I hope that is all it is , I have the exact problem, I only drove it to shelby fest and short trips around town, and the wobble and shaking is driving me nuts, I will put G-force balnace on them and check the 180 and the retainer today!! Thanks Guys

 

All here: Please also don't forget that underinflated tires, or even properly inflated tires will develop flat spots when not driven for a while. This can also get a bit worse in cold weather... Driving for a few miles usually reduces / eliminates this. I just wanted to mention that low profile tires are prone to anything not being exactly correct.

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